LFMc

Nothing in my experience leads me to think that they are. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

I am having exactly the same problem. Just replaced my PLM a month ago and both my powered thermostats are not reporting correct temps or status to the isy unless I query them. I'll try restoring them. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Shouldn't it also work if you only query one or two insteon devices per hour, i.e. not all of them? Something as critical as the plm should have a heart beat that can be monitored anyway, but I'm just dreaming. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

It appears this 2476S switch may have partially failed, if that is possible. It does not send DON, DOF or DFON, DFOF when pressed locally. It turns on and off the light locally and responds to all inbound requests from the ISY. I tried factory reset, did a restore device and it is still acting the same way. I am going to yank it and put in a newer dual band unit. Then I can test it further off line. Sorry for the confusion.

Ok, yes, mine has the fast on/off buttons on the Admin console also, but I spent a lot of time trying to get a program to respond to the fast on/off from the switch and gave up. I have that same type of program working else where with dimmer switches that work great. I just programmed (for grins) it again and still doesn't work. Mine is a 2476s v.41 switch which I think is a bit older and powerline communications only. I just chalked it up to all on/off switches not have the fast features. what is really interesting is even if I issue the fast on from the admin console, the program still doesn't run.

Paul, your double taps must be faster than mine. Lol. Never got it to work. Research on my switches showed there is no such response on my on/off switches. Maybe you have a different model? Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

My insteon on/off switches do not have fast on/off options. Only dimmers have that feature. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Sandy, thanks for your postings and work on this. You got me going with Node-Red and I just posted my Power Management Dashboard thread. Here is a link to it. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/23072-creating-a-power-management-console-for-the-isy-zs-option-with-node-red/

No one mentioned water flow sensing, so I thought I would throw in this inexpensive way to detect water flow, even if it is not needed in this case. I needed both pump on sensing and water flow sensing, so I used this for the latter. https://www.amazon.com/Lemonpool-Assembly-Replacement-Compatible-Generators/dp/B071SHJLN4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510606504&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flow+switch+assembly+with+tree+replacement&psc=1 $35 on Amazon and you can hook it up to any of the I/O Linc insteon unit. I had to use this to make sure I wasn't pumping from a dry hole, unprimed pump or clogged filter. (-:

Some people are just not very tolerant of the HA learning curve. Typically the right brained like my ex.

A program turning all on or all off sequentially sounds like a great way to limit power surges on the home power grid. (-; I used to worry about wasting bits ("70 commands sent out") when programming in my assembly language days, not so much any more. :-9 Seems like adding 1 more device to a program is a lot faster than waiting for 71 devices in a scene to re-link. What I like is by using a program, I don't have to hunt down my remote Keypads and activate them in link mode just to update them. Its always interesting to hear both sides. Thanks guys for humoring me.

Just curious, is there some advantage to putting 70+ devices in an "all off" scene vs. just using an ISY program? I would think it would go so much quicker with a program adding and deleting items, adding logic to the shut offs, etc. than dealing with all the linking going on with a scene. I understand that the scene still works when the ISY is down, but I wouldn't think that is a huge benefit. Any feedback?

I used a much larger version of this box to mount an external EZIO8SA and several outlets. This smaller version would work well by putting your 2450 on the end of an extension cord inside this box and then plug the extension cord into your GFI outlet. Then put this box where you want. It is inexpensive and has a foam seal around the lid and cord entry to keep out water. Being it is plastic, it doesn't interfere with RF signals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RX5H6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I will second Paul. I am implementing a EZIO8SA for controlling and monitoring my pond, pumps, filters and other outdoor items. 8 SPDT relays capable of up to 3A of 120VAC each, plus 7 sensors, 4 digital input or On/off, 2 analog input with trip point settings and 1 Dallas Semi. 1 Wire connection for temp input. It does require a PLM, but that can be located close to your signal source and it is dual band. It is just going into the system this week. I will update you if you like about how well it does, but testing has been good. Also, I would like to mention that Smartenit's support is outstanding, just like UDI. They get back to me day or night or weekends. Very impressive so far.

I have recently run into this issue with a different Alexa skill called "Wireless Tags" which some of us ISSY users like to use also. The company, CAO, released a notice/read me on their skill set that had some interesting information in it, including a list of "spokens" that should be used if you want better success at Alexa responding correctly. They go so far as to state that if you need to use the same "spoken" more than once to add a number behind the recognized word(s). Here is a link to the release and the word set is near the end on the 2nd hyperlink labeled "here". It is worth the read to see that Alexa skills seem to have a favored spoken list. It did clear up some word recognition problems I was having with the Wireless Tags. The CAO doc also has a link to a 5 page document of all the variations of commands that are valid with Alexa. https://store.wirelesstag.net/blogs/news/wireless-tag-informational-amazon-echo-alexa-skill-is-now-live I mention this to see if anyone knows if UDI has released a similar Alexa "read me" about their skill set to get better recognition of "spokens" and lists of valid command statements. Does anyone have a link to something similar for the Issy skill set? --Leon

Here is the skill set I am waiting to be added to Alexa: The "Spousal Skill set". "Alexa, tell wife I need a foot rub". "Alexa, tell hubby to mow the yard". "Alexa, tell wife to start dinner". "Alexa, tell hubby to shut up". etc., etc., etc.... Solves all sorts of marital communication problems. But I can't wait to see the spousal API insertion process. --Leon

As mentioned earlier in my reply at the start of this post, I almost exclusively only adjust the wired unit (via my ISY) while all my wireless units are masters and I don't seem to have this problem. Or possibly I am less sensitive to it and haven't noticed it. Try a test. Set the wireless to master, unplug the power supply for a 15-30 minutes, then plug it back in and see if that triggers the wired unit to become the master. Maybe you have a weak or faulty power supply. You might also put batteries back in to act as backup power. BTW, all my wireless units are battery only. Replacing batteries once or twice a year is not a problem for me.

Dan, I do not have direct written knowledge of the following facts, they are from my "experiences" with using several of the 2441TH and ZTH products in my home with an ISY 994i. Please, anyone, feel free to correct my observations. Changing the "master" setting only changes the location of the sensor that picks up the local temperature to trigger the AC or heat to come on or go off. Anything you input on any unit as a set point change or system on/off setting will be shared automatically between the two or more units. So, since the ZTH only wakes up when it's local temp or humidity changes (unless you press a button on it), then when remotely changing any setting by the UDI ajax, admin or dashboard, I always change the wired unit settings as it will update the wireless when it checks in later. I'm not sure, but I think the ZTH also checks in on a time schedule to save battery life. I have heard you can attach the ZTH to an external power supply and it will stay on constantly. --Leon

Just added a 2663-222 insteon dual receptacle outlet to my ISY994i. Both outlets are individually controllable on/off. I can see and can control both outlets individually in the Admin console and on the Ajax app on my device. But on the Dashboard, they do show up individually, but only the top outlet has ON/OFF buttons. The bottom outlet on the dashboard has no buttons. When I "auto added" the device, I double checked to make sure it was the correct insteon part number. Dashboard is 4.4.6 and ISY is 4.4.6 also. --Leon

If you are looking to give them control of your devices only, then I might suggest the SHC app (Simple Home Controller). I believe the latest release allows you to password protect what the app will do on a per user basis. But I know it will isolate the user from the admin level control of the ISY. --Leon

I have done a lot of forum searching, but I can't seem to find this question answered. If I attach the Insteon optional remote sensor to the Insteon 2441ZTH thermostat, can I "see" or use the values from that reading with the ISY or see it on the ISY dashboard? Or is it only going to to show up on the thermostat's local display? Thanks, --Leon

Just an update. I have confirmed that in the 2.4Ghz range, the Zigbee channel numbers and WiFi channel numbers do not line up and are not the same. Zigbee's channel range 1-26 and WiFi's channel range 1-14(?) directly overlap each other. Zigbee just breaks down their range into more channels than WiFi does. So in my case with the smartmeter using Zigbee channel 21, it directly overlaps WiFi devices using channel 11. Here is a good article explaining the difference and overlap. https://support.metageek.com/hc/en-us/articles/203845040-ZigBee-and-Wi-Fi-Coexistence. Michael, is there a way to force the smart meter to use a different channel via the ISY settings or are we stuck unless the power supplier changes it?

Auto DR reference: https://www.sce.com/wps/wcm/connect/245ea9e7-fda8-4a4c-854d-4a1ecfeea201/24135_SCE_AutoDR_Xpress_v4.pdf?MOD=AJPERES Other than this, I have no idea if it is needed or not.

Thanks Michael, I will check the ISY antenna internal connection when I have time. All my (and my neighbors) 2.4Ghz Wifi signals are on channel 14 or lower, per the scanner I have on my laptop. I have no idea if these Wifi channel numbers correlate with Zigbee channel numbers or not. You previously mentioned that because my unit was using channel 21, that you didn't believe there would be interference with the 2.4Ghz wifi units. --Leon

Just for grins, I put the ISY back in the media cabinet and put the aluminium flat to quasi-parabolic 10" reflector (a.k.a. a pie pan) behind the Zigbee antenna and the error rate (with the cabinet door closed) after 12 hours is less than 0.4% with no total disconnects as before. We'll give it a few more days and see how it goes before making it a permanent decision. --Leon