smithlevenson

Absolutely. I am pretty sure I can manage it. I don’t love the thought of it in my walls, but no way would I use it if I wasn’t 100% confident the Triac was reinstalled to spec. I do appreciate the warning. It’s not a “simple” fix even though it is just one part soldered to a circuit board.

Damn it. Now I am tempted to just fix the two bad Triacs. Not super pumped about having a re-soldered switch in my wall, but maybe I can use it right under a smoke detector ; ).

I thought Insteon was originally open source and they had switch circuit board diagrams published. That also could have been a figment of my imagination. It's been a while.

I tested the Triac and it has a short between 2 pins. I am not an expert so I am only going by what I could look up on YT, but apparently this is bad. I can't really see a safe way of replacing it since it needs a heat sink and a rivet to the case. I should be able to use two dummy switches to control 3 way's, but I will need one 2477 to actually control one of the lights. Probably not worth doing the full upgrade just for one switch.

I will check and see. It looks easy enough to test with a multimeter. Will report back. I hate to repair something like a switch, but i am on ISY 994iz and the only new replacement looks to be the i3 Paddle. Upgrading the controller just to replace two switches feels bad, but my z-wave is already toast so it might make more sense just to get all my door locks back on the controller.

I lost two 2477D's when lighting hit near my home and tripped a breaker. They are both exhibiting the same behavior: The Load wire is always hot now regardless of the status or what is pressed on the paddle. I was wondering if there is any mechanism in the circuitry that might cause this? Does it need to be opened and some sort of breaker reset? I opened one of them and didn't see any visible signs of damage, so it made me wonder if there was any other mechanical or memory reset that may need to be tripped. Thanks in advance!

Hey all, I have a spare 2 wire switch that I want to wire up as "dummy" switch to control a lamplinc or something. Can I just put the 2 wire switch into a circuit with a hot load and neutral, or would turning on the switch cause a short? Didn't want to experiment with a (now expensive) switch. Thanks in advance

I have found the programs to be a lot slower than the Scenes. If it's the only way, then so be it.

Can you elaborate? I'm not following. How do you adjust levels in the Scene without updating the motion sensor controller. Doesn't it recieve the on level of the scene when it's updated?

Hey, If I change a scene by a program to ignore a device, would that have to be updated to a battery powered door sensor before it could run the scene correctly? I am trying to keep outdoor lights out of a scene during the day in response to a garage door open. But at night I would like the out door lights to turn on as well. I currently have a program that checks for post sunset and modifies the scene to Ignore the outdoor lights. It doesn't seem to be working, but I want to understand how the program works with battery powered devices before I start trying to hunt down bugs. Thanks, Smith

This would be the text sliced at .1 mm nozzle. It looks ok, just needs some clean up on the character spacing.

Ok printed a first model. Obviously .4 mm nozzle does not have the resolution. I think I have a few smaller .2 ones laying around, may need .1 mm to get the text right. I also tried to match the text exactly, which may not be the best option. The color isn't terrible. My first layer is way too smushed considering prints are just a few layers. This thing has elephant foot for days. I would like to see if I can get some prettier path lines on the front too. The size overall is decent, but it doesn't clip in as the back is not the right proportions yet. Seems very doable though.

Just creating a log for making 3D printed KeypadLinc Buttons. I will share the Fusion 360 model and Super Slicer settings if I get something I like.

I really want to try 3D printing these buttons. My printer is not dual extrusion which is not hard required, but nearly so. Color matching will be interesting too. I am going to make some today and see how they look.

I agree with this. Replacing something that works for $400 (Eisy + Z-wave) is just out of the range that I want to spend right this second. For me it would be getting some new tech to push me over the edge. I do like the look of the i3 dimmers. Do they take up less room in the electrical boxes?