MrBill

@Bspect I just edited my post above, if you've already read then recheck it.

try this: "Pump Failure": If CW Backup Pump Alert-sensor is ON, Run program "Pump Failure 2" (then) Else No Action Pump Failure 2: If (none) then disable program Pump failure wait 2 minutes run program "Pump Failure 3" (if) else (none) "Pump Failure 3": (disabled) If CW Backup Pump Alert-sensor is ON, Then Set 'CW backup Alarm ON (this is lamp link with red warning bulb) Send Notification to Brooke email content 'Cold Circ Pump Failure' Wait 10 minutes Send Notification to Brooke email content 'Cold Circ Pump Failure' enable program Pump failure Else enable program Pump Failure The problem with your version is that a retrigger of the sensor starts the 2 minute wait over again. I may actually be wrong about needing 3 programs, I'm not sure if a program can disable itself, in that case just disable the first program before the wait, but have the last program enable it both at the end of THEN and in the ELSE. Edit: I tested... you will need 3 programs, when a program disables itself it stops running. When a program is disabled, it prevents its IF statement from working automatically. However it can be run by another program. Therefor Program 3 is always disabled. Technically it doesn't matter, because it doesn't have an IF statement, but i would also disable Program 2 always. Program 1 will be disabled by Program 2 to protect the wait, and re-enabled by program 3 in both the THEN and ELSE so that the alarm doesn't end up getting left turned off.

I don't know a lot about z-wave but with Insteon I find that "Status is NOT off" works better for ON than "Status is ON", so that may be it if you followed my example of using IS NOT OFF. You might try dropping the wait and see if it works faster and correctly.

Can you watch the admin console or check the status tab to see if it's running? My guess is 1 second is too fast for zwave, or "control" isn't working with the device. You might try switching the logic to "if Status devicename is not off" and use the same then statement.

I think the switch is toast. Sounds like the memory has failed. A keypad button AFAIK can only be a controller for 1 scene, however it can exist as a responder in another scenes. (For Example All OFF) If you need to turn on two scenes set the keypad button up as a controller for the primary scene. Then create a program If status "load of primary scene" is not Off then set second scene On else set second scene Off

@GeddyYou've got my sentiment exactly. The two reasons I turned off Sidewalk is because it can use a tiny slice of a resource that has a bandwidth cap, and because it doesn't benefit me I have Alexa devices, but no Ring, No Tile, and none of the dog collars that haven't started selling yet. The resource it's using is not unlimited. We never reach our cap today, but I don't need someone else giving away a slice of the pie that I purchased, especially when the network is of no benefit to me.

I'd suggest everyone take a moment to read this article..... it's the one I thought I read a few months ago... Apparently it was last September when Sidewalk was announced. Sidewalk creates its own 900Mhz network. IT DOES NOT USE YOUR WIFI for foreign devices. Your Alexa connects to your Wifi yes... the Sidewalk mesh is in the 900Mhz band and is only other devices talking to your Amazon. Your wifi password is NOT SHARED. https://www.cnet.com/news/amazon-sidewalk-extends-your-network-but-security-is-already-in-question/

Except they haven't... Amazon Sidewalk does NOT USE YOUR WIFI.

Years ago, When smarthome was having a 20% (or some percent off sale) I noticed they lowered all the prices on Amazon to match. I placed a huge order via Amazon instead of Smarhome for the 2 day Prime delivery (everything I wanted was Prime)... the order would have qualified for free freight from smarthome, but smarthome typically doesn't get it shipped until Tuesday or Wednesday of the week after the sale (usually monday's a holiday) then I'm 4 UPS days from Smarthome so it would be Monday or Tuesday of the next week before I'd get the smarthome order... which seems like an eternity when you're waiting for it.. So I thought well it's sold by SmartHome anyway, it's got prime delivery, the price is lowered to the sale price, I'll get it from Amazon instead.... What a mistake... the order arrived in like 38 boxes! Somewhere I have a picture of it on my front step... the other thing was it was shipped from all over the place. and contained many versions of the same products.... I cleaned out all the Amazon warehouses for them tho... 3 different rev's of fanlincs, etc... not even all the inner boxes were the same style design... some new, some older. That was the last time I ordered any insteon from Amazon.

The whole point of my post was Apple did the same thing with everyone's iPhone, and Apple didn't even give a way to opt out.... Crickets... no one is complaining about Apple pulling the same stunt but without an opt-out method. If I thought Amazon Sidewalk would help me I'd probably leave it on, I don't believe it's a security threat-- but I only have limited information. I have a bunch of Alexa's, No Ring tho, and I think all my Alexa's except one are too old to participate in "Sidewalk". I don't know what my neighbors have or do I care. And I can't imagine how my Amazon network would help them anyway. To be Clear, sidewalk doesn't share my wifi, but does use some of my bandwidth bucket that isn't unlimited... although I never reach the bandwidth cap. The CNET article I read sometime back (months) seemed to indicate the devices that might be using this most were Fitness Trackers and Dog Collars (a product I don't even think is on the market yet). I just find it hilariously funny that there is so much hype about Amazon Sidewalk right now when Apple does the same thing and not a single eye is batting...

I agree with you that the item being discussed is a 3rd party vendor.... Typically smarthome direct items appear as Prime items "Sold by Amazon, Shipped from Amazon" like this one. Typically when Smarthome has the 15/20/30% off sales those items "Sold by Amazon, Shipped from Amazon" like the linked one will also discount. There have been several cases lately where third party vendors have been selling scare items at higher cost via amzon... I linked a $99 PLM in another thread in the last few weeks where that was also the case.

They work with this too... I'll double check right now because I happen to have a string in my desk drawer... no news is good news (if I don't reply again it was no problem... I'll turn them on then turn them off a few times and leave them laying here the rest of the day turned off via Kasa.

@Eric Toggle mode is under a button named none other than "Buttons Toggle Mode" What I meant was remove that from all scenes, then remove the keypad itself from the ISY (right click it in the tree and pick "delete"), then factory Reset it. After its factory reset... you can tell from the detail under Step 4 of the factory reset instructions above if it factory reset, then relink the keypad to the ISY as if it was a new device (since we completly deleted it. Finally, since there are suspensions that they device might be bad, do you have another button somewhere else on another keypad that you could use to experiment?

Yes I have. No problem found. They do not have leaking current for the load-sense feature like the Insteon modules. Specifically this one is what I used. 3 of them last christmas with cheap lights like this and this. (the second one I know for a fact doesn't work with an Insteon module without the night light trick, but was fine with the Kasa.)

@Eric to add to that.... After you get the module deleted from all scene's, delete the device from the ISY as well. Then factory reset it one more time. and then add it back from scratch.

Good plan. I had trouble following your scene setup it might be that you have conflicting settings in two scenes that are each being activated. Make a single scene and test, then add in complexity, testing at each step. From a few posts back: Make the outlet a controller (instead of a responder) and then the backlight button will stay in synch when the button on the outlet is pressed.

@Eric That is an old model keypad. However I'm not sure if you got the factory reset correct. You need to hold the set button in until it beeps. (source)

This is reasonably easy to do, but you need a second variable. and for that variable a simple integer variable will do. Since the state variable is sMusic, let's call this one iMusic. Program 1 If sMusic = 1 then (do whatever need to always be done) Run Program 2 (if) else (none) Program 2 (DISABLED) if iMusic = 0 then (do whatever needs to happen if the old setting was 0 iMusic = sMusic else Run Program 3 (if) Program 3 (DISABLED) If iMusic = 2 then (do whatever needs to happen if the old setting was 2 iMusic = sMusic else iMusic = sMusic /* keeps variables in sync if old was neither 1 or 2 The key element here is that Programs 2 and 3 are disabled, which means they will not run automatically when the IF statement becomes true. In actuality in this case since the IF statement is only using a integer variable it wouldn't anyway, but if the variable was a state variable or some other object that could become true, if the program is disabled it won't run by itself, but will run if linked from another program. Obviously you have to have the variables in synch to start with, but they should stay that way with this program series.

I find it funny that when Amazon does this it's publicized like it's a national emergency. On the other hand... Apple essentially did the same thing with its new AirTags. An AirTag can use any nearby iPhone to phone home the GPS coordinates of the AirTag. Apple opted everybody in, and didn't even give a method to opt out. For some reason no one even noticed. Do we trust Apple more than we trust Amazon? That said, I turned Amazon sidewalk off a few months ago when the setting first appeared in the app. I'm not sure why I did. Maybe I do believe it's hackable, maybe I just don't want to study what it is and how it really works in detail.... i.e. an informed decision. But with Apple there was no decision.

Have you followed the instructions in this wiki page: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Garage_Door_Kit As far as inverting it for the A button, you can add that button to the same scene and program it with the opposite logic in the scene.

Open Each of the referenced scenes, the scene attributes need to be set for the root level and each controller link. example: First click the root level "Attic Fan" and set the attributes on the right side window. Then click each of the RED Controller node (Controllers are Red, responders are blue) and set the attributes of each device in the scene. For this example we need to configure the scene 4 times. Most at first don't realize how powerful scenes and controllers are. The attributes set at the root level are what happens when the scene is controlled by the ISY, either from the admin console, an app, or via a portal integration such as Alexa). When you click each of the RED controller links that's what happans when the scene is activated from that controller. So for example, if you have a Kitchen Scene and a controller at each end of the kitchen, the scene can respond differntly when the controller at the Left end of the kitchen is used than when the controller at the right end of the kitchen. Note: If there are buttons that need to be turned On/off on another keypad, they must be included as responders. I can't tell you exactly what you've done wrong, but perhaps a better understanding of scenes will help you find the misconfiguration.

The scene setup looks correct, but the button pressed don't seem to be. You mentioned "I'm still wondering if this is a bug in my program somewhere (even though it is very simple." Do you in fact also have a program involved in this. If so, you likely don't need it, but please post it. (right click the program name in the program tree, and pick Copy to clipboard. In the forum press the <> button on the toolbar and then Ctrl-v in the resulting window.)

Kasa SmartPlugs 4 for 24.99 They are on/off only devices (not dimmers), and you need Polyglot (either via Polisy or rPi) to run the Kasa nodeserver. If you don't need to Dim they work amazing. I have 12 total.

So Everything is off: Press C and the scene turns on. And the backlight, behind the C button turns on? The scene is on: you say it takes 2 presses to turn off the scene. What is the status of the backlight behind C? When the second condition occurs, how did the scene get turned on? Via another switch or? when you open the scene in the device tree, would you please take a screencap and show what the members of the sceen look like. (to do this in Windows, press windowskey-shift-s, click and hold top left of screencap move to bottom right and release the click. the screen cap is now on you clipboard. Click in a forum message window and press Ctrl-v)

Even tho it shows connected did you try restarting it?