MrBill

did you add any programs to the ISY? If so please paste those also.

Duplicate thread: lets keep all the responses in the other one:

Good to know that it worked out for you. Let us know if you have more questions.

Not on topic for this forum, but the answer can only be found in the manufacturer's documentation. Some coils might be rated for continuous duty while others may only be made for intermittent use. Generally with door strike the models that are meant for continuous duty are quiet. If they are noisy (buzz) they likely are not for continuous duty.

that sounds more like a scene issue than an Alexa issue. Alexa uses the root scene configuration. what happens if you try to turn the scene on using the on button at the bottom of the admin console?

After you made changes in the portal, did you say "Alexa, discover devices"? Also she doesn't always deal with things that have duplicate names correctly. If you have duplicate names then delete both, and tell her to discover devices again. Also I find it easier to find duplicates by using a full web browser via laptop and logging into https://alexa.amazon.com if none of those help I'm out of suggestions.

yep... I use an ubiquiti ER-12 currently. I started with an ER-X but needed an upgrade when I switched the primary connection to 1gig. As I mentioned above Re: the tp-link I was needing a dual wan router, I use a second LTE modem as backup. The edgerouter line is solid, the DHCP and Routing tables with both take whatever you can throw at them (unlike consumer routers that have limited size in for both tables). Much like a certain automation controller we all love they have V1 firmware and V2 firmware... v2 was beta and had issues for years. I stuck with v1 which they may have now stopped updating (last v1 firmware was 1 year ago), I'm still resistant to moving to V2 tho. There is a learning curve. It's not exactly plug and play like consumer all-in-one units. Your wireless AP's are separate entities. There is a GUI, but several things are left out of it, or harder to configure, so you will likely learn to use the CLI. It's basically a dedicated version of debian linux with router software built-in. I added a couple of scripts so that the ISY could keep track of minutes per month that the primary WAN was down, and set it up to send me Pushover notifications when it switches between the primary WAN and Failover WAN. I haven't rebooted the router in 323 days.... It's rock solid.

AHHH I just learned a new way....

@lilyoyo1 the reason that I don't think it's so much the toggle vs non-toggle is because my mutually exclusive buttons were setup and working for a long time with the buttons still being set to toggle. I simply didn't realize for a really long time to make them non-toggle, and I always kinda half hated that you could turn off the button that was on, but I accepted that... then one day I realized I could make them non-toggle and have them work exactly as I always thought they should. The funny part is I knew non-toggle existed, I've used that for area "all off" buttons since the beginning. (most of the H buttons in my house are non-toggle "all off" for the area you're leaving.)

I think the larger item that will change how it works is multiple controllers on the same keypad vs single controller with the other buttons being responders. I didn't realize the ISY would even allow what he's doing, there a dialog box to the effect asking if you want it to be a responder because another button is already a controller.

@n4bos FWIW, when I was initially trying to convert to a dual WAN router I started with a TP-LINK model (different than what you have), I wasn't having trouble with ISY traffic being blocked but instead it was RDP protocol traffic on Port 3389. At that time (4 years ago) I used it extensively to control the music library in the house.... since then, well now we just say "Alexa...." This was all local network, nothing from the outside, I just couldn't use devices that contacted a specific windows device on port 3389 when the TP-link router was hooked up. I did ALOT of back and forth with TP-link support over 30 days (several emails a day), they kept accusing me of having wrong settings in devices despite the fact i sent them many registry dumps and screenshots. They would have me try this or that, most of which I would do, and reverse back when it failed. Sometimes they would have me try "A" on Monday, and be back to telling me to try "A" again on Thursday. I kept saying over and over, "BUT as soon as I switch back to my old router it works" to which they once actually answered "you (me) have absolutely no idea what you are doing do you? why would you use your old router to test this?" In turn, I kept asking if they had set this up on the same hardware in their lab, to which they once actually admitted they didn't, that they used simulators for testing. Anyway to shorten a longer story, on the 28th day I boxed the router back up and returned it to Amazon before the return window closed. I told TP-link to close the case, about 3 weeks later they emailed again wanting me to test something, I wrote back again please close case, that I had returned the router to the vendor. they contacted me several more times over a few years, each time I told them the case should be closed, and I no longer owned the router. Finally I did get an email about 2 years after the fact that said "we have duplicated these conditions in the lab and will be updating the firmware" 2 months after that they emailed again to say the firmware had just been released but that if it didn't resolve the problem to contact them for a hardware replacement that firmware could not resolve the issue in all cases. That was the second Tp-link product I had tried in many years, the first was junk as well although I didn't return it. I know many people swear by tp-link products for price, but I sure didn't experience support with their networking products. I will never buy tp-link networking anything again..... On the other hand, I have bought a total of 12 tp-link HS103 smart plugs and they work great. The Moral of the story: I think you have a router that drops these packets for whatever reason and it's not your or UDI's fault it's tp-crap. ----- related: I agree with Michel and others above.... to give the ISY a specific IP address, use an Address Reservation in the router and simply leave the ISY set to DHCP, don't change ISY network settings. The router then hands out the same IP address each time based on the MAC address of the device. What doesn't hold true across all router manufactures is whether that address should be inside the DHCP pool, or outside it, or in some cases it doesn't matter. I've seen routers error when it's inside the pool, forcing the assigned address to be outside the pool. I've seen the opposite as well, although less frequently. Then finally the Ubiquiti Edgemax series truly doesn't care, the address can be any on the same logical network and the DHCP server doesn't care if it's inside or outside the DHCP pool, however other ubiquiti product do care...lol

@andrew67 I do have two different 8-button controllers (both 2334-222 Rev 7.7) that control the same 2 fanlinc's with mutually exclusive Off, Low, Med, ,and the light on a 5th button.. the other 3 buttons are used but unrelated to the fanlincs. (so 2 - 8-button wall controllers, 2 fanlincs that are controlled together, 5 scenes total, OFF, Low, Med, High, Light) and the lights on BOTH controllers stay in sync. The only thing that I note that I do differently is only one button in the scene is the controller. That is for the function "High" it is a button that is a controller for the scene, while Off, Med, and Low buttons are Responders to the scene. (yes i waste a button and a scene for OFF, I think now I could save a scene by making the OFF button, a non-toggle OFF controller for one of the other scene's but when I set this up I didn't think of trying that). Also probably unrelated to your debugging, but all of my mutually exclusive buttons are programmed Non-toggle. Also I assume you know this, but in case you don't, when setting things like this up to make use of this button: on the ribbon? It turns off writes to the devices, allow you to make programming changes to multiple buttons and scenes, when your done with the whole keypad or whole group or whole whatever you're setting up then turn the button back on and go refill you coffee (or get another beer). (I got the idea at some point during the read of your post above you might not know.....)

@andrew67 Here are screenshots that will hopefully help you there are a total of 4 scenes but I'm only going to paste two of them. I suspect you are not configuring the Red controller buttons. In my case the functions are for outdoor lightning Day, Evening, Late Night, Bright. The ISY normally sets the first 3 based on sunrise / sunset / bedtime, the 4th mode Bright is always manual, the buttons E,F,G,H exist on a keypad by the door. Note in the above screenshot the Root of the scene is selected. "Front Lights - Evening" these settings are used when the ISY controls the scenes. Above screen shot is Same Scene but note this time the cursor on the tree is highlighting the Controller or RED entry from the previous screen shot. You much set the OFF's on the other buttons here also. Now let's look at the next button. This is similar to the first screen shot. we are setting off for the other buttons added as responders when the ISY is the controller. and finally: Now the RED controller of that scene is selected and I again need to set OFF for the other buttons in the scene. As I said I'm skipping Day, and Late night but they are the same thing..... just different red controller branches. The buttons are "non-toggle"-"on".

yupp.... yesterday my conclusion was it meant "shut up" ???

here's my reaction because I still can't react....... or like.... or whatever you call clicking the heart... I agree with you 100% tho... they never have been good at "documentation" or "communication". I tried signing out, clearing cookies, signing in... several times... been like that since yesterday... Not sure what the definition of "Today" is but it's been 24 hours since it started telling me that...

I confess, you have more details on how GPS works than I do. I have noticed that iOS these days asks repeatedly for awhile (maybe 3 times over 3 days) if you really mean "always" then every few months it asks again. Frankly I'm happy with apple on that... a few years ago apps were taking the "always" way too often and apple was allowing it to happen, where the avg consumer doesn't really realize what they are giving away.

It's been awhile since I experienced a similar issue, but I think the : can't have a space on either side of it--however I don't think it caused the ISY to crash, i think the mail send simply errored out. personally I also need a greater than 1 second timeout. @CMcCarron are you using the "test" button to crash the ISY or is an actual program in use?

And if it does, who knows if Smartlabs will share the technical data and documentation that UDI needs to support its usage with UDI products.

I use a comcast account dedicated to my ISY: My redaction ink gets in the way of "From", but it's Home:<userID>@comcast.net where <UserID> is the same thing as entered in the box above and is the portion of the email address before the @ Outgoing messages are not saved in SENT. I actually use the account with a separate email app on my phone as the TO address as well. (I use a different email app so that I can have Notifications turned on. (whereas real email uses a different app and has notifications mostly off) I've found that sending email from and to the same account at the same provider to be very beneficial in terms of speed and reliability.

@randyf the most important thing to understand before upgrading is which z-wave board is installed in your ISY. The easiest method is open the admin console choose Z-wave > Z-wave version. if the answer is 6.81 then all of the 5.x versions are available to you, you should upgrade directly to v5.3.3 If the answer is 4.55.00 then you can not go past ISY version v5.0.16C. If you fall in the the 300 Series version 4.55.00 group then the z-wave board is up-gradable and UDI has special pricing based on the age of your ISY. See here: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Z-Wave:_Ordering/Assembly_Instructions

It's hard for everyone to grasp how ISY programs work. It's important to remember that when IF is evaluated either Then or Else will always run. I suspect you maybe on to something there. Good luck, let us know if more questions come up as you experiment.

The program being disabled prevents it from running by itself at Sunset and Sunrise. However when ANOTHER PROGRAM tells it to run, it still runs. In this case THEN will run from Sunset to Sunrise.... during the other period, ELSE runs... but it is only triggered to run when the other program tells it to run. The IF statement: $sPBHome is 1 And $sNeighborhood is 1 And From Sunrise + 1 second To Sunset - 1 second (same day) will be evaluated anytime the value of $sPBHome changes AND at anytime the value of $sNeighborhood changes AND at SUNRISE AND at Sunset.... at any of those events/times Let say we arrive in the neighborhood after sunset. $sPBHome is 1 And $sNeighborhood is 1 And From Sunrise + 1 second To Sunset - 1 second (same day) will be seen as False and True and False when we consolidate False AND True AND False to a single value.... we get False.... because we get false ELSE runs so now when PBHome goes to one we get: True AND True AND False which reduces to False so Else runs again Now lets change the time we are driving in to NOON.... first neighboorhood becomes 1....... False and True and True.... Else runs then PBHome becomes 1..... True and True and True... Then Runs.... I never even pointed out in my initial post what happans when the timers time out..... When neighborhood goes to 3 (assume phome is still 1) True and False and True... Else runs again..... The important distinction between State and Integer variables is that CHANGING THE VALUE of a State Variable causes the program to RUN.... If a state Variable changes the IF statement will be re-evaluated AND either THEN or ELSE is going to be executed. Integer Variables on the other hand don't have that magic property of causing the IF of a program to be evaluated so we can think of them as a filter, rather than a trigger. so grabbing the new IF from above: If '#Geofence / Lake House / PBLakeHouse' Occupied is True AND $iNeighborhood = 1 Nothing happens when $iNeighborhood becomes 1..... this program does not run. when Locative tells the portal nodeserver to become true the program runs... now we use the value. True AND True reduces to True..... so THEN runs.

If Send Notification to 'Default' is timing out there should be an error in the error log. But if that's the case you wouldn't change the delay here, you would want to change the SMTP timeout.... Configuration tab -> Emails/Notifications, try 2500 or 3000. Changing 3 to 4 seconds in this program won't do anything that helps.

First since the neighborhood geofence is a filter to prevent things from happening as opposed to a trigger (something that makes things happen) it needs to be an Integer variable rather than a State variable. State Variable cause programs to run. Integer variables don't trigger them to run, but can be used as a filter. So move $sNeighborhood to $iNeighborhood. Also $sPBHome isn't needed at all. Neighborhood - [ID 0057][Parent 002B] If '#Geofence / Neighborhood / PBNeighborhood' Occupied is True Then $iNeighborhood = 1 Wait 10 minutes $iNeighborhood = 3 Else (nothing) In the above program I changed the variable from state to integer, deleted the Else clause, and removed the [Run at Startup] attribute which won't have any effect on how the program works. ------------- PBHome - [ID 0056][Parent 002B] If '#Geofence / Lake House / PBLakeHouse' Occupied is True AND $iNeighborhood = 1 Then Run Program 'Arriving Home' (If) Else (Nothing) ----------------- Arriving Home - [ID 002A][Parent 002B][Run At Startup] [Disabled] If From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) Then Send Notification to 'Lake House' content 'PB Night Geofence Ran' Set '#House / Arriving Home' On Wait 2 minutes Set 'Security / Security' Off Wait 10 minutes Set 'Back door / Backdoor' Off Set 'Hallway / Hallway' Off Else Send Notification to 'Lake House' content 'PB Day Geofence Ran' Set 'Garage / Garage 2 / Garage 2' Open Wait 3 minutes Set 'Garage / Garage 2 / Garage 2' Close Geofences don't work because of Cell Towers or Wifi. It's all based on the GPS coordinates of your phone. A change of cell tower or wifi on/off may cause Locative: to check the GPS values. I've noticed my wife's phone take much longer to realize we have left (if we leave in the same car) than mine. I assume that's because hers in buried deeper in obstacles (purse and purse junk) that make it harder to get the low power signals from GPS satellites. Now if you want that feature, it's doable, i just wouldn't rely on GPS/Geofence. Instead maybe a driveway sensor that detects you driving in, that triggers a transmitter in the house to "ask" the car if it's the correct car to open the door for.... when the car has answered with a secure message "yep this is PBsCar" then open the door.... I still would keep the manual button in the car tho because Automation Can always fail.

@jblackst5000 I'd even suggest going all the way to 5.3.3