algod Posted February 27, 2014 Posted February 27, 2014 I do have a meter, but how do I test in a switch loop, when only the line is broken at the switch? Or does it matter when installing a 2-wire switchlinc (2474DWH). Thanks, Al
Brian H Posted February 27, 2014 Posted February 27, 2014 The Quick Users Guide and Full Users Manual shows the Black to Line and the Red to Load. Only one of the wires on the original switch should have 120 volts AC on it to neutral or ground and that would be the Line. There is a possibility you could read back through the load with a high impedance meter. If you test with the load disconnected in the fixture or the bulbs removed. That would remove any leakage back through the light bulbs.
oberkc Posted February 27, 2014 Posted February 27, 2014 How many wires are in the switch box? If only two, then it is a near certainty that you don't have a neutral. If you have more wires, you can test by measuring resistance between ground and a suspected neutral. Resistance would be near zero. Test without power.
apostolakisl Posted February 27, 2014 Posted February 27, 2014 The easiest way to describe a test is to tell you to disconnect all the wires at the fixture box and the switch box(s). Then turn the power back on and find the hot wire with you meter. If it is at the fixtures box, then you almost certainly have a switchloop.
algod Posted March 1, 2014 Author Posted March 1, 2014 It is a switch loop. I found that out a while ago when I bought a togglelinc and found out I didn't have an extra neutral. Now that Insteon has a 2 wire dimmer I thought I'd give it another try to control my x10 controlled kitchen light. Thanks all for the response, Al
Brian H Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 The two wire SwitchLinc requires an incandescent load to work. As it steals power through the load. If your load is not incandescent it will not work. Some dimmable LED bulbs MAY work but you would be on your own testing it.
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