Switching control between two circuits

[naPS]

Whoever designed the switching circuitry in my house was a moron. I have two rooms, let's call them A and B. The switch for the overhead lighting in room A is in room B, and vice versa.

 

Is there any way I can put a 2477D on both of them, and set it up so that the switch in room A will control the circuit in room B and turn the lights on in room A without affecting the room B overhead lights?

[apostolakisl]

Are these the only 2 switches for the 2 respective lights? In other words, is the load wire for the light in room A in the switch box in Room B? If the answer is yes, then pretty much you would be looking at using an inline linc plus a switchlinc. If not, then you must have 3 way switches and it is a matter of putting a switchlinc where the load is and then putting another switchlinc at the other box.

[naPS]

Yup, they're both single switches for the loads in the other room. It's just dumb. I see the in-line linc now, thanks for pointing that out - and yeah, that would do the trick. My only issue with that solution is that my boxes are already full with switches, and I wouldn't have anywhere to throw the inline linc.

 

Thanks for the response!

 

edit : Ooh! This looks promising - http://www.smarthome.com/2442-222/INSTE ... ule/p.aspx How small are these things? The description says they'll fit behind normal switches.

[Brian H]

Is there a Neutral Power connection in the switch boxes?

Insteon modules require a Neutral power connection to work.

Except the two wire SwitchLinc that steals the power through the load and it has to be an incandescent load.

 

The Neutral maybe in the rear of the switch box. Maybe wire nutued to other Neutrals between the switch boxes.

If you find a White wire on the original switches terminals and the switch does not have an outlet or back light on it. That White is not Neutral but is part of a switch loop.

[apostolakisl]

Yup, they're both single switches for the loads in the other room. It's just dumb. I see the in-line linc now, thanks for pointing that out - and yeah, that would do the trick. My only issue with that solution is that my boxes are already full with switches, and I wouldn't have anywhere to throw the inline linc.

 

Thanks for the response!

 

edit : Ooh! This looks promising - http://www.smarthome.com/2442-222/INSTE ... ule/p.aspx How small are these things? The description says they'll fit behind normal switches.

 

That could work, but not in the usual way it is designed to work. The micro-module is meant to be hard wired to a regular switch and it senses that switch status and then the micro-module itself switches the load on/off to the device. So, you would still have the switch from the wrong room doing the controlling wired like that. You could put a micro-module and a switchlinc at each location and then link the switches using the Insteon communication and not hard wire the load wire from the switch to the micro-module sense wire. In other words, just cap the sense wires.

 

Don't forget, the inline linc or micro-module can be placed in the box at the light fixture where you may have plenty of room.

 

EDIT: Also, be sure to note that the micro module dimmer is only rated at 100 watts. The inline linc is rated 400 watts. If you have more than 400 watts you'll need the micromodule relay which gives you a full 15 amps but you get no dimming.

[naPS]

Thanks for the help guys. Ended up going with two mirco modules so I could dim the fixtures - went ahead and put the modules in the first fixture in each room. Works like a champ! I'm only controlling 2 10w BR-30 LED lams from both switches, so it's well within the rating of the micro module.

 

Thanks again!