Repair of 2413S PLM When the Power Supply Fails

[Brian H]

Thank you for the chip links.

They are a later revision than the ones I had archived.

It does sound like there was more wrong. Than the power supply.

[GeorgeRufle]

I know that this thread is for the PLM but there are similar issues with electrolyitic caps failing in the 2476D wall switch.

 

Since I wasn't able to fix my 2413S I decided to look into why several of my 2476D wall switches were acting up.

Lo and behold all of the electrolytic caps (there were only 2) in these units had burst and were leaking.

C16 was 100uF@16 WV which I replaced with 100uF@25WV.

C2 was 470uF@ 25WV which I replaced with 470uF@35WV.

 

It appears to me that C2 failed because it is laying sidewas up against D10.

This diode obviously gets hot because the point at which it touched C2 is where the failure occurred on C2.

 

I assume that C16 failed because of the C2 failure.

 

After replacing these two caps I now have a functional 2476D again.

[Teken]

I know that this thread is for the PLM but there are similar issues with electrolyitic caps failing in the 2476D wall switch.

 

Since I wasn't able to fix my 2413S I decided to look into why several of my 2476D wall switches were acting up.

Lo and behold all of the electrolytic caps (there were only 2) in these units had burst and were leaking.

C16 was 100uF@16 WV which I replaced with 100uF@25WV.

C2 was 470uF@ 25WV which I replaced with 470uF@35WV.

 

It appears to me that C2 failed because it is laying sidewas up against D10.

This diode obviously gets hot because the point at which it touched C2 is where the failure occurred on C2.

 

I assume that C16 failed because of the C2 failure.

 

After replacing these two caps I now have a functional 2476D again.

That is awesome information and I thank you for sharing this valuable information.

 

 

Encrypted By: Phoenix Security Solutions

[The_Penguin]

Just found this thread, good to know that it's a common (in the consumer elctronics industry) failure mode.

 Having repaired about 50 LCD monitors, several TVs and assorted computer equipment I have a ziplock bag with several hundred bad caps.

I may do a pre-emptive recap on my PLM just to be safe.

 

Since I do so many, I order caps in decent enough quantity to justify Digikey's $8.00 flat rate overnight shipping (to Canada) so I likely have the parts in stock.

Haven't looked at my PLM, is it a switch-mode supply?  If so I would not recommend Mouser caps, but go with known good quality high ESR 105 degree caps like Panasonic FM or FC series.

These are my go-to brand for all of my repairs and have served me well for years.

[apostolakisl]

Just to let you know.  My PLM still working after the recap.  It;s been over a month now.

 

And I just had to replace the run capictor on my office AC unit yesterday as well.

[uy6n]

A few days ago, I found that several devices which should have been activated by a program that runs at sunset had not been activated.
The ISY994 log indicated that the expected commands were sent at sunset and there was no indication of a problem in the ISY error log.
When I started Admin Control panel, the only indication of a problem was a message which said that that a particular Insteon Bulb was not communicating.
When I sent on/off commands to the devices, some of them responded, but the above Insteon bulb and several others did not.
Some of the devices that did not respond were also linked to buttons on a RemoteLinc 2 2342-2 and they _did_ respond when the appropriate buttons were pressed.
Then I attempted to reboot the ISY994 by issuing Configuration:System:Reboot from Admin Console.
After allowing several minutes for the boot to complete I tried again to send commands to the devices from Admin Console, but the result was the same as before.
Next day, I did a hard reset on ISY994 (button on front panel), but this had no effect on the problem.
Then I did a hard reset on 2413s PLM.
At this point, all devices responded to commands from admin console but the Insteon bulb that originally had a problem was still unreachable.
Then I moved the bad Insteon bulb to another location, but it made no difference.
Then I replaced the bad Insteon bulb with a new one.
At this point, the new Insteon bulb and all other devices were reachable and Admin Console reported no errors.
Later in the same day, Admin Console reported that an ApplianceLinc 2456s which had been OK before was not communicating.
The ApplianceLinc was linked to a button on the RemoteLinc 2 mentioned above and it was responsive to this button.
Moving ApplianceLinc to a different location had no effect.
Then I cycled power to ApplianceLinc, but this had no effect.
Then I unlinked Appliance from ISY994 and re-linked it, but this had no effect.

I have tried to re-enroll both failed devices (Bulb and 2456s) have been unsuccessful.
Based on this post, my working assumption is that my 2413s PLM is on the way out and I plan to replace it.

But it seems odd that two unrelated devices would apparently die within 24 hours while the PLM was acting up.
Is it possible that an unhealthy PLM could actually cause damage to other insteon devices on the network?

[ergodic]

That seems unlikely. More likely is you could be seeing the same failure mode as with your PLM at about the same time frame, or you have corrupt link tables somewhere. Though I personally wouldn't put any money on any of that just yet.

 

I'm not reading that you've actually replaced your PLM. Until you do there's absolutely no point in doing any ISY-based diagnostics that rely on it. Madness lies down that road. And no re-linking or restoring either.

 

A wonked-out PLM can corrupt link tables in device controllers. A depressing syndrome I've witnessed first-hand. There also was one wretched iteration of switchlinc (V.35?) firmware that had the same magical capability to corrupt unrelated controllers at random. And corrupt link tables anywhere naturally open the door to all kinds of irrational mischief anywhere else. (Attention SH: how about a damn CHECKSUM?)

 

You can of course manually reset and link device controllers to test their basic function with no PLM or ISY. (If you do that you'll need to restore them once you get your new PLM.) If you do a hard reset and manual link and they still don't work, very likely something's failed. But as I said I don't think you can lay that one on the PLM. (Almost anything else. Just not that.)

 

I would probably also do a few device link comparisons after you replace your PLM - you may be surprised. Or shocked.

[uy6n]

Thanks for the quick reply. I've ordered a replacement. In case anyone's interested my 2413s is v1.5. It's pretty disappointing to see this kind of failure history in a device that represents a single point of failure in a home automation system.

[Michel Kohanim]

Hi uy6n,

 

I also recommend simply moving the PLM to a different outlet.

 

As ergodic suggested, please note when you factory reset your PLM (or get a new one) you MUST do a restore modem:

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Replace_Modem_.28PLM.29 

 

With kind regards,

Michel

[uy6n]

I replaced the defective 2413s v1.5 modem with a new one (v1.c) and restored the modem. Everything seems back to normal except for the 2 devices mentioned above (ApplianceLinc 2456s3 v4.9 and Insteon Bulb) that stopped working shortly after the PLM. I have not been able to re-link them to ISY994. When I put Admin Console in Linking Mode and press the 2456s3 Set button for 3 seconds, it flashes rapidly four times and starts blinking at a lower rate (it's supposed to turn on solid, right?) and Admin Console gives no indication that it has detected anything. So it looks like they really did fail. For reference, the bad 2456s was 36 months old (almost exactly the same as the PLM that failed) and the bulb is no more than 22 months old. Smarthome would not replace the 2413s because it's out of warranty but did offer 25% discount on a replacement. They also said that the new one should be more reliable. Time will tell.

[arw01]

Checking to see if the Panasonic I substituted in my cart will be a replacement for the  Fujicon there, it's on backorder for a number of weeks at Mouser.

 

667-EEU-FC1E101S

 

Original Part                                                New Part#
Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with      ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt
Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with     UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt   WOULD THIS REPLACE THIS OTHER ON BACK ORDER 667-EEU-FC1E101S
Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with        EKY-500ETD100ME11D 10uF 50 Volt (2 of these)
Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with        UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt

 

[danu1964]

Regarding your substitution I noticed the Panasonic is rated for 1000 hours at temperature and the original one I specified is rated for 5000 hours at temperature.  I also noticed the physical size is different and don't know off hand if that one will fit within the footprint.  I have some capacitors left as I ordered 10 pcs.  If you want we can communicate off forum and I can send you one of these caps so you get this repair done right the first time.  You can reach out to me via my company letzgoproducts via a search engine.  We should be at the top of google search.

 

Dan

 

 

Checking to see if the Panasonic I substituted in my cart will be a replacement for the  Fujicon there, it's on backorder for a number of weeks at Mouser.

 

667-EEU-FC1E101S

[ertyu]

Thanks for posting this topic, it both answered what was wrong with my PLM and how to fix it. Indeed mine is about 2.5 years old now, but the issues started a couple months ago. The issues didn't seem as severe as others. I would notice it stop responding and checked to see that it's LED was out. Sometimes unplugging it and plugging it back in was enough to get it to work for a few more weeks, sometimes it needed to be unplugged for some time before working again.

 

Ordered from Digikey to cut the Canadian shipping costs to $8 (remarkably delivered in under 24 hours, ordered 7:30pm one night, delivered the next day at 2:30pm) so I made a few substitutions I hope were suitable for what Digikey had available in small quantities:

 

Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with      ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt
Substituted ESG106M400AH4AA -- long life version of ESX

 

Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with     UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt

UTT1E101MPD

 

Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with        EKY-500ETD100ME11D 10uF 50 Volt (2 of these)
Substituted EKY-500ELL100ME11D -- same part with different leads

Original part available in large quantities

 

Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with        UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt
Substituted UTT1C100MDD1TP

Original part available in large quantities

[arw01]

Completed the surgery a few moments ago and no magic smoke on power up.  Green led came on after a few seconds, and I can confirm flashing on insteon traffic.

 

Many thanks to the pioneers of the process, took me a couple of hours and I mis-ordered a quantity of the (need 2) item and Dan sent me one of the other parts that was on backorder so I'm good for long enough let's hope to get to the UDI version of the PLM.

 

Alan

[lithiumus]

Someone from the Smarthome forums sent me this way after my 2413U recently stopped working.  I'm from Canada as and will be ordering from Digikey.  If the parts are inexpensive, I'm ordering 2 sets but if someone needs and wants to share the shipping, I'm more than happy to order up more sets and mail them to you from within Canada.  Let me know soon.  Likely placing the order on the weekend or Monday.

 

I'll be ordering based on erytu's list.

[lithiumus]

OK.  Given that the parts cost under $4 for a set, I decided to purchase 5 sets worth to help out any fellow Canadians.  I can probably send them out for $6 - $7.  Just PM me.

[Brian H]

I am glad you found the thread.

If you have a real early revision. You may find two of the caps and a inductor hanging off of the main board. Seems the original design had only one filter cap and no inductor for the raw 12 volts that is normally closer to 20 volts DC.

Later board added the inductor and second capacitor to the PCB.

[lithiumus]

Hi Brian H, thanks me too!

 

My unit is V1.6 1209 so I think it has the inductor and 2nd cap on the PCB but not the updated parts.  I'll crack it open tonight and have a peek inside...

[Brian H]

Should all be on the PCB.

My  Hardware 1.5 has all the components on the PCB.

 

My Hardware 1.0 was the one with the hanging parts.

I was not impressed with the rework. NO insulating sleeve  on the long component leads. Just hanging out with exposed bare wires.

[lithiumus]

I got the parts today and replaced all 5 caps.  I plugged it in and was pretty happy when I saw a green light!  Unfortunately, something is not right.  The device is not recognized and when I hold down the set button, it does not go into discovery mode.  When I hold the set button down and plug it in, the LED is red and it beeps once.  The LED goes green after I let go of the set button and a few seconds later, a quick double beep is heard.

 

Not sure what to do now other than buy a new one unless someone knows the problem.  Thanks again everyone.

[Brian H]

Most likely you removed the Serial Daughter Board to access the main board.

Double check you didn't get a pin off when you plugged it back into the main broad after the repairs.

Also check your work. Some of the solder pads are close to other runs and may have a small solder bridge between them.

 

I believe there where a few posts. That indicated the caps didn't completely fix the issues. Though for most it did.

[bfranske]

Thanks! I'm on my second PLM and it died last week after about 3.5 years. Following the advice here I decided to try re-capping it and was successful in bringing it back. Since I'm much closer to Digi-Key I decided to order from them and for the record the above Dgi-Key parts listed by ertyu work just fine. It's really a shame that manufacturers attempt to shave a few cents a unit off by using cheap caps.

[garry84]

danu, thank you for providing us with detailed information on this issue. I haven’t had any problems with my PSU and I have been using this for a year. The list of replaceable components that you have provided is very important for me since I’m thinking about replacing this before getting some bigger issue of PSU failure. I have some components lying around, they aren’t the ones linked to the part numbers you’ve mentioned but some have the exact capacitances with slightly different voltage ratings. Would they be ok? 

 

low cost pcb

[Brian H]

They should be 105C temperature rated and C7 & C13 LOW ESR for things like switching power supplies.

 

C7 and C13 10uf/35 volts ones. Directly on the unregulated +12 volts. From  the transformer driven by the switching power supply IC. Being the most critical.

 

Higher voltage rating usually is OK if it doesn't make the capacitor too large to fit.

[dmwolff]

Thanks to everyone for this thread.  I went to my local parts shop, picked up the 5 caps and shotgunned my dead PLM.   Its now functional again and only cost three bucks and some gas   FYIW,  I checked the removed parts and the 100 uf cap, C11 was bad in my case.  The others were all surprisingly close to actual values.