Teken Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Hello Harold, ========================= In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 C7 and C13 where changed to the 100uF in the later revision hardware. I would probably test them in my slightly older model ones that had the 10uF ones. My V2.1 has the 100uF ones in it. Tight fit as the PCB was not changed for component changes. Not sure if any other parts where changed in the V2.1. 2D is in the 5 volt regulator for the Daughter Board electronics. On the output of the 5 volt regulator U1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggler Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 I did this and it worked great, bow trying to revive a keypadlinc. Does anyone know the part numbers to change Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Thanks Teken. The square pad. I could not find one I could see to confirm that. Been way too long since I played with my soldering irons. And then I could actually see what I was doing. An irrelevant side note. I have had an awful time trying to get solder out of the holes. I have tried compressed air, 3 kinds of solder sucker, and copper braid (with and without added flux [NOT plumbing flux]). A properly sized fine metal pointed object (preferably of SS or something that will not bond to solder) would probably work on hot solder without damaging anything. I could not find any of mine. The only thing my efforts accomplished was that I may have damaged a trace on the board. Mostly I could get one cleaned, but not the other. It may be that one is thru hole and the other is not. Because of a comment here somewhere, I am aware that there is thru hole plating on this board. Hence, no small drills to be safe. Everything is now soldered. For those that also don't do this a lot. What worked: Empty at least one hole with one of the above tools. If you can't get one clear, clean off as much solder as you can and put the long lead through with a soldering iron on the hole. After deciding which hole you are going to start with, cut leads to a length which gets the caps to about the right height after install plus an inch or so on the lead going in the clean (or first) hole (may need a bit of heat to convince it to go all the way through). Cut the second lead a bit shorter. Stick the long wire through said hole and push it through until the short lead touches the hole still full of solder. If the long one is free to move, just heat up the other hole. If not, heat both. For wide spacing, it may be a rocking sort of action . Heat one hole and push a bit. Go to other hole and repeat as needed. Be sure you leave enough lead to get the cap down close enough to the board. If the replacement caps have a different lead spacing you need some room to adjust if necessary. Remember: the new part will have a long lead on the positive side. The positive hole in the board should have + sign and/or a square pad for + and round for -. Don't just start with the existing long lead in any old hole. You should probably shorten both leads and then make one shorter. Pay attention. Next to get a fire extinguisher and try the repaired device. Brian - caps on left original values. Caps on right - the ones I used. I did use 100uf. I spent a bunch of time trying to make sense out of the assorted part numbers and manufacturers specs to get all Mouser without compromising anything. I think I got it right. Boy, I sure wish I could get this kind of rapid and useful information from the sites I am trying for fixing my dishwasher. RESULTS: DEAD AS A DOOR NAIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggler Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I had aomeone hold the board while i desoldered it from behind alternating between posts Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackery Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Anyone interested in upgrading the caps in a 2413 PLM and then selling to me for a profit? My soldering skills are sub-PAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalease Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Anyone have any luck repairing lamplincs or wall switches? Over the years I've accumulated a box of devices that have failed, planned on chucking them today when a search online pulled up this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Anyone have any luck repairing lamplincs or wall switches? Over the years I've accumulated a box of devices that have failed, planned on chucking them today when a search online pulled up this thread. If you find in the newer style dual band lamp linc a silver cylinder that has goo all over the place. Good luck finding out the part (maybe its in the FCC data base) number. Besides the capacitors on some of these products the next big hitter is the sliver crystal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 The silver cylinder is a crystal and they rarely fail. The goo is just component mounting glue. I have repaired some of the original 2456S3 Appliancelincs. I have had a few of then start pulsing On and Off at a one second rate. The main filter capacitor had dried out and needed changing. I have not found a replacement 30 volt zener diode that frequently failed. Many times burning the board or solder got too hot and it fell off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orrd Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I have the 1.0 version (with the hanging capacitors and jumper wire). If I order from Mouser, can someone confirm if for the 1.0 version I still just buy all the same capacitors that danu1964 listed in the very first post in this thread? (I've been browsing through all the replies here, but there's a lot to read through.) Also, do we know if the latest version that Smarthome is now selling has better capacitors that won't fail so quickly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yes the capacitors called out in the start of the thread should be fine. You may find, (C7 & C13) are two10uF/25 Volt ones where the 10uF/35 Volt ones should be used. I have one hardware V1.0 with 25 volt caps and one with 35 volt caps. One of the replacement capacitors in the list was discontinued. There was a new part found and called out further into the thread. Not enough long time data on the latest 2413S PLM. To say the PLM is fixed. The power supply was updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Hey folks, just found this topic while Googling for PLM not working. I'm glad is in this forum, because I just bought an ISY-994izw that I'm trying to setup. I ordered a new 2413s from Amazon but decided to try to fix this one as a spare as these thing don't seem to last long. Having said that, I bought mine in 2011 so about six + years of daily use. Anyway, I opened this puppy today and here's some pics of what this looks like, specially the caps in the middle of the board. Has anyone successfully re-caped one of these little gems ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 The 2413S PLM in you photos. Looks like a Hardware Revision 1.0 where the PCB was originally made with no Pi filter just one capacitor. In the unregulated 12 volt supply. That was updated to add the extra cap and coil. For the Pi type filter. I have two of them but have not tried rebuilding them yet. I know a forum member was going to do one but I don't know if they did it yet. The capacitors should be the same values as found on the later Rev. 1.5 and above models. One of mine had 10uF/25V one for C7 and C13 but the 35V is better and in most of them anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Yes, this definitely was a fixer-upper and the back of the board is a mess. I'll clean the board with alcohol and will identify component values. Need my magnifying glass for that. I'll post a picture with what I actually have. Thanks for the fast reply..... I will give this a shot, not much to loose since I can get the components locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 The two 10uF/35 Volt (C7 and C13) should be a low ESR designed to be used on a switching power supply. For best results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Well, so this is what I found and I could use help with what I labeled C7 & C13. I don't have a C13 marked on my board, just have that mess and a lead going to pin C21 on the underside of the board. Any help in that area would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 C13 is the 10uF/35 volt that is not silk screened on the PCB as it was a engineering change. To go from a simple single filter capacitor on the +12 volt supply to a Pi filter on the +12 volt supply. C13 and the coil hanging off the PCB where added to the PCB layout on a later revision. There should also be a PCB run cut {maybe under a part and not easily seen} so the added components are now part of the +12 volt supply. The red fly wire is the output of the Pi network and connected to where the +12 volts is supplying power to the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thanks Brian, looked up π filters and educated my self a bit. I will re-cap this PLM and post back my results....Thanks for the help ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Sorry if I confused things by calling out the C13 silkscreen number for an older artwork PCB. Where it is just hanging off the board. In mine the bare leads are awful long. If I did one. I would use some insulating tubing on mine to make me feel better. My old electronic repair experiences showing up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Brian, No confusion from you. I could not get the exact parts locally so I tried the mouser.com site and there still can't get the exact part numbers either. So I picked some as close as I could get to what I think I need but would feel much better if you could give them a look over before I order and try the re-cap. Thanks Original Part New Part# Current Mouser.com part#C3 Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt ESX106M400AH4AA 10µf 400v C11 Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt UTT1E101MPD 100µf 25v C7,13 Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with EKY-500ETD101MHB5D 100uF 50V (2 of these) ***HLH EKZM500ETD101MHB5D 100µf 50v << different PN C8 Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt UST1C100MDD1TE 10µf 16v << different PN C2D Daughter board 100uF 6.8V EKY-100ETD101ME11D 100uF 10V ***HLH EKMG100ETD101ME11D 100µf 10v << different PN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 C3 OK C11 OK C7,C13 OK C8 Is there maybe a typo. UTS1C100MDD is not a valid number. They do have the UST1C100MDD. It has a 1.5mm lead spacing. The 1TE suffix has a 5mm lead spacing. Mine are 1.5mm C2D that part number is marked as a Non Stocked Item 14 weeks lead time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumon Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Original Part New Part# Current Mouser.com part#C3 Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt ESX106M400AH4AA 10µf 400v C11 Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt UTT1E101MPD 100µf 25v C7,13 Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with EKY-500ETD101MHB5D 100uF 50V (2 of these) ***HLH EKZM500ETD101MHB5D 100µf 50v << different PN C8 Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt UST1C100MDD1TE 10µf 16v << different PN C2D Daughter board 100uF 6.8V EKY-100ETD101ME11D 100uF 10V ***HLH EKMG100ETD101ME11D 100µf 10v << different PN thehose, Not sure if this will help, but this is a list of what I ordered from Mouser late last year to repair mine (some subs). It worked well and is still running fine (no Daughter board repair): 647-UVZ1C100MDD1TD UVZ1C100MDD1TD 10uF 105c 20% 80-ESX106M400AH4AA ESX106M400AH4AA 400volts 10uF 20% 647-UTT1E101MPD UTT1E101MPD 25volts 100uF661-EKY50ETD100ME11D EKY-500ETD100ME11D 10uF 50 Volt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Brian, Jumon Thanks for the clarification, I now have my shopping list together. I may try a fix without replacing the C2D on the daughter board (availability), maybe it will work as it did for jumon. I have a last question regarding the Pi filter, the third component in the filter is the inductor labeled 1Mh (the only marking on the piece). Should I replace that and if so what is it ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 I doubt the inductor is damaged. The two capacitors in the Pi filter are the biggest problem. Fujucon is not the most well known brand of capacitor. C2D is on the output of a small 5 volt linear regulator. So it does not have to be a low ESR. Just a good brand and probably a 105C temperature rating. Also in a fairly open area so a slightly fatter or longer one may fit. I believe the lead spacing on it was 1.5mm when I measured it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehose Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Thanks Brian, I'll just get the caps then. It may be while but I will let you know if the fix worked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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