Kevin Connolly Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I thought I'd post here in lieu of Smart home thinking that you guys will be straight up with me. In the past week or so I've had three separate Switchlincs go flaky on me in a new installation. Currently, I have 11 devices so that equates right now to a 30% failure rate. The issue this morning and current problem is that a Switchlinc devices paddle stopped working and just the paddle. It still seems to work through my phone and other linked devices. I've spoken to Smart home and they're sending me a new unit...but the bigger question is the experienced failure rate. The second question than is can you mix and match Z wave devices with Insteon devices through the ISY (assuming I have the ISY Z wave board and module) Link to comment
Teken Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I thought I'd post here in lieu of Smart home thinking that you guys will be straight up with me. In the past week or so I've had three separate Switchlincs go flaky on me in a new installation. Currently, I have 11 devices so that equates right now to a 30% failure rate. The issue this morning and current problem is that a Switchlinc devices paddle stopped working and just the paddle. It still seems to work through my phone and other linked devices. I've spoken to Smart home and they're sending me a new unit...but the bigger question is the experienced failure rate. The second question than is can you mix and match Z wave devices with Insteon devices through the ISY (assuming I have the ISY Z wave board and module) From past experience there have been some periods where a few bad devices hit the shelves and into the customers hands. As you indicated SH has always been very good about warranty and replacements for said devices. Also offering cross shipping options to the customer. In my opinion there are only two devices I would never buy given the endless negative customer ratings: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html & http://www.smarthome.com/220v-240v-30-amp-insteon-load-controller-normally-open-relay-dual-band.html As you noted once you upgrade to the Z-Wave module you can let the ISY Controller control a combination of Insteon / Z-Wave products in your home. Link to comment
Brian H Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Mostly curious as you are getting replacements. Did you do a power cycle reset and did the paddles still not work? This brings me back to the real early SwitchLincs where the small Tact Switches the paddles activate. Would physically click but not make electrical contact. Power line controls where fine. Paddle pushes non responsive. That finally resulted in a extended seven year warranty for tact switch issues. As there where too many users to say it was a users installation issue. Link to comment
ravedog Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 In my opinion there are only two devices I would never buy given the endless negative customer ratings: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html & http://www.smarthome.com/220v-240v-30-amp-insteon-load-controller-normally-open-relay-dual-band.html . Yikes. I'm using the 240v to run the pool pump. What other options are there in 240? By the way, the link for that is bad. Link to comment
Teken Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Yikes. I'm using the 240v to run the pool pump. What other options are there in 240? By the way, the link for that is bad. Hrmmm, the links seems to work fine for me? I was hoping to nudge UDI in that direction with their newly released relay device. Since they have indicated its only 10 amps it really does not service a much larger audience and really can't be considered for anything remotely commercial in nature. Most commercial products support at a minimum of 30 amps, and go up from there. I have never seen a commercial relay product support only 10 amps?? Link to comment
ravedog Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 The old way that my parents were using was a x10 wall switch to send 110 to a 240v relay. Messy. But worked Link to comment
Xathros Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 The old way that my parents were using was a x10 wall switch to send 110 to a 240v relay. Messy. But worked I do something similar for the perimeter mercury vapor lamps at the office. I use a 110V plugin module to drive a contactor for the 220V running the lamps. -Xathros Link to comment
Teken Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 The old way that my parents were using was a x10 wall switch to send 110 to a 240v relay. Messy. But worked Yes, Stu from the SH forum offered a similar solution which I have considered for a very long time. Since the Insteon Micro On / Off module came out I have simply considered using this device with a 240 VAC SSR instead. This would allow Insteon control and integration while offering bullet proof relay control of my HWT. Right now that project has been put on hold as the *Cost vs Reward* was near zero for me. Its a great convenience but does not save me any money in the long run having the ability to kill the power to the HWT. If I had a cottage / cabin that is something that would see real rewards in terms of energy consumption and user control. Link to comment
Brian H Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 ELK even makes a heavy duty relay in an enclosure. 220 volts 60 amp contacts. Has a 120 volt power cord you use a module like an X10 appliance module or Insteon ApplianceLinc to turn On and Off. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-heavy-duty-relay-contactor-in-a-lockable-metal-structured-wiring-panel-enclosure.html Link to comment
Teken Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 ELK even makes a heavy duty relay in an enclosure. 220 volts 60 amp contacts. Has a 120 volt power cord you use a module like an X10 appliance module or Insteon ApplianceLinc to turn On and Off. http://www.smarthome.com/elk-heavy-duty-relay-contactor-in-a-lockable-metal-structured-wiring-panel-enclosure.html Yes, that was one of the solutions Stu provided a few years ago for me. I believe sourcing the parts would be a lot cheaper via the Inter webs. But, if someone wants a buy, install, plug & play that is one very clean approach. Link to comment
stusviews Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 A Micro Module can easily fit in the Elk cabinet. Link to comment
Teken Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 A Micro Module can easily fit in the Elk cabinet. LOL! You knew what I meant! Link to comment
Kevin Connolly Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Let's, for now chalk it up to a bad day for me. As usual, my day starts by letting the dog out, turning on the kitchen lights, getting some juice, letting the dog in, turning off the lights, and than getting ready for work. All went well up until the turning out the lights part. I really didn't get to play with it until I got home. I got it back up and running with a soft reset. I really didn' have any device issues until I added a Remotelinc and a Keypadlinc. I went to remove the Remotelinc and things went haywire again. I disabled the Remotelinc and did a hard reset of the affected Switchlinc. It now seems to be working fine....but I'll keep my eye on it. Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Another thing most of us learn the hard way is to Factory Rest every new device before even attempting to link them into our ISY. These devices come out of the factory with some weird responses that aren't even possible in the manuals. Link to comment
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