xKing Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Depending on your monitoring company they may support GSM monitoring, for example. Or you can do internet monitoring with either DSC TL260 board or EnvisaLink itself. EnvisaLink would also e-mail/text you on any event.
edokid Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 Yeah that's great, I'll see which option is best thinking would either way get a cellular device for voice, or if going the Internet monitoring route then would just get a LTE device that has ethernet to connect to the DSC with a UPS. That will all come though, first thing is to fix the door and reenforce that sucker. I'm in Canada so finding a company that monitors is harder it seems since most recommendations are US only or in the US, where I'd rather have someone local vs a monitoring company in another country.
edokid Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 Quick update, I bought the Door Armor one, the EZ version since the other is a bit crazy. Was so hard to find, went to Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Rona, no one had even heard of a product to reenforce your door. Finally found it at Lowes, was hidden in between door trim near the back and took 3 people to find it. Had to show it to them on their website before they believed me they sold it Installing it was pretty easy but it's really hard to close the door since it's super tight, so don't think I'll be able to use the Z-Wave lock there anymore to control it as you have to really make sure it's closed. Definitely no one getting in this way though lol, back door might be more an issue since it's solid glass with a metal frame, so will install it there later tonight. The door guardians are neat as long as I don't forget to remove it lol, went to test opening the door earlier and would forget and it wouldn't open since the door guardian was locked!
Teken Posted April 14, 2015 Posted April 14, 2015 Glad you were able to find them locally and install them so quickly. As noted the door guardians should only be used at night or when away long term. Leaving the device enabled on the front door and leaving the interior garage door open offers a great balance of force protection. Please ensure everyone knows how to open the lock in the dark. During a fire situation this device can be a death trap if you're unable to think clearly and remain calm in opening the unit. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
edokid Posted April 14, 2015 Author Posted April 14, 2015 Yeah I definitely will, I think it will mostly be used when I'm home alone, which is often (usually it's just me here). I couldn't even figure out how to open it when I first bought it, was like a puzzle lol.
Teken Posted April 14, 2015 Posted April 14, 2015 Yeah I definitely will, I think it will mostly be used when I'm home alone, which is often (usually it's just me here). I couldn't even figure out how to open it when I first bought it, was like a puzzle lol. Yes, the pull and retract mechanism is very secure but requires practice by everyone. This isn't something you want to be farting around with trying to figure out in the dark while a raging fire is on your ***. This is a great product to secure the lower basement windows (assuming you have a basement) http://www.goodbarsecurity.com/ We always install the swing away version of these units to ensure compliance with fire code and safety. You can purchase these units from your local Home Depot, Lowes, Rona.
edokid Posted April 14, 2015 Author Posted April 14, 2015 I have a basement but the windows are so small that there's no way someone could come in that way. They are sliding ones but like 2 feet wide and maybe 3/4 of a foot tall with half of the window being fixed in place and the other side sliding. I can put a stick or whatever to prevent them from sliding but it would be pretty hard for anyone but a child to fit through there.
Teken Posted April 14, 2015 Posted April 14, 2015 I have a basement but the windows are so small that there's no way someone could come in that way. They are sliding ones but like 2 feet wide and maybe 3/4 of a foot tall with half of the window being fixed in place and the other side sliding. I can put a stick or whatever to prevent them from sliding but it would be pretty hard for anyone but a child to fit through there. Keep in mind many crimes are opportunity based and fueled by drug addiction. These crimes are often juveniles and young children from all walk of life. Most drug dealers use runners / mules which are under aged children for a reason. They can not be sent to jail because they are too young. Children are often used to penetrate homes at the lower levels in exactly the places you least expect. In a world where people still believe in the honour system, respect, and protect thy neighbour. In 2015 this isn't something you can expect or count upon. You should always be prepared and expect the unexpected because this is the world we all live in now. Situational awareness is 90% of the battle plan in any endeavour. Implementation is the key and execution in a sound and tested plan. The mantra is: Be Aware - Don't Advertise - Run Stealth - Be Prepared
edokid Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Quick question, more about alarms but figure already talking about them so might be easier to post here than find a forum. A lot of alarms say they have wireless keypads, which I'm not huge on but what happens with a wireless one if the battery dies or are they still plugged in to power just wireless in that they don't run back to the main alarm? I'd be paranoid that I'd come home one day and then find the keypad battery dead or something and not be able to disarm the system, or with my luck be trying to enter the code but have it not able to talk to the alarm panel for some reason. Seems risky to go wireless to me?
Teken Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 Quick question, more about alarms but figure already talking about them so might be easier to post here than find a forum. A lot of alarms say they have wireless keypads, which I'm not huge on but what happens with a wireless one if the battery dies or are they still plugged in to power just wireless in that they don't run back to the main alarm? I'd be paranoid that I'd come home one day and then find the keypad battery dead or something and not be able to disarm the system, or with my luck be trying to enter the code but have it not able to talk to the alarm panel for some reason. Seems risky to go wireless to me? Almost all security alarm systems monitor for voltage, heart beat, and battery levels. The system would well in advance indicated a low battery condition. Almost every system provides a means to indicate battery level, RF jamming, RF Strength, tamper, trouble, on line / off line. The reality is wireless tech has been pushed out by the industry because it's fast and helps the inept and lazy. As I stated there is a place for wireless but not as the primary method for an entire system. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent
edokid Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Yeah what I was thinking is it might be easier to go wireless on the keypads just due to wiring, but since the wired ones are so inexpensive I could always put a wired one in the basement with the actual alarm, since if for some reason I came home and really couldn't make it work I'd have a backup. All sensors I want to be wired, first floor at least. Could be okay with wireless ones for other areas where it would be extremely unlikely for someone to enter that way (such as from the 3rd floor which would need a massive ladder as tall as the house type thing).
Teken Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 Yeah what I was thinking is it might be easier to go wireless on the keypads just due to wiring, but since the wired ones are so inexpensive I could always put a wired one in the basement with the actual alarm, since if for some reason I came home and really couldn't make it work I'd have a backup. All sensors I want to be wired, first floor at least. Could be okay with wireless ones for other areas where it would be extremely unlikely for someone to enter that way (such as from the 3rd floor which would need a massive ladder as tall as the house type thing). There are very few situation where fish tape will not reach or be the right solution. The industry has been around for more than 50 years and before all of this wireless stuff was pushed down our throats. You know what? It required a skilled technician to actually do his freaking job!! I would highly suggest you call up five reputable companies and ask them all the same exact questions regarding placement of the keypad / sensors. I guarantee you at least one of them will immediately say we can do this *easily via wireless*. If that is his first reply kick his sorry *** out the door . . .
Scyto Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 I also concur on the ease of install of the DSC along with the options for communicators for self monitoring or purchase. I am also happy with the wireless sensors and the control panels - including the one that talks to me, cheaper thank ELK too. They all have tamper detection and wireless spoofing protection / alerting and tell me when battery is getting low. I really recommend you get the interface board for the DSC that allows use of the DLSIV configuration software.
edokid Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Yeah AlarmForce who I checked first really promotes their wireless things, which to me is sketchy since I'm not relying on that for an alarm. It's fine for Insteon motion sensors for lights and so on but that's about it. Great thanks, yeah I'll get whatever I need with the DSC, surprised how inexpensive it is for a starter solution as even the keypads are inexpensive. Was at a business partner site last week and noticed their alarm was DSC as well.
xKing Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 BTW, DSC PowerSeries Neo is also pushing Wireless solution with their PowerG thing (which is really Visonic). But old good DSC PowerSeries like PC1616, PC1832 and PC1864 are still available and work great. Don't forget EnvisaLink module so you can integrate your DSC with ISY.
edokid Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 Great thanks, yeah was just looking at PowerG but seems hard to find online in Canada. aartech.ca has most of the PowerSeries gear but none of the Neo stuff. Was going to just buy probably the PC1832 and now that I've looked into it more I think I may just go the wireless route only because all I really want the alarm for is the siren to go off if someone breaks in. So I'm thinking I still have the ISY with those motion sensors and controls as well, plus I have cameras recording all the time, so there's some redundancy there. Just will make a point of testing the system often, and always before vacation and so on. I was less into wireless if it meant changing batteries every 6 months or something but it says most devices last 2-3 years including the keypads so even changing them anyway once a year should be a safe bet. Still going to see if running wires if feasible but where everything needs to go it's pretty difficult to do without opening up the ceiling and walls. With that module what kind of ISY integration does it do? Is it just network resource type things? I saw the Elk has an actual plugin for the ISY but not sure it's worth the extra headache and expense. I think all I'd really want it for is having the alarm trigger away programs, as our issue is when I had a KPL since it's not an actual "alarm" no one would ever remember to press away mode or whatever when leaving. So be handy if I can have it so that when I arm the DSC in away mode the ISY changes a variable for house status to 1, indicating away mode and then runs various programs etc.
xKing Posted April 21, 2015 Posted April 21, 2015 You won't be able to integrate PowerSeries Neo with ISY :/ DSC encrypted the keybus (RS485 bus) so no 3rd party modules can be attached. PC1616, PC1832 or PC1864 - no problem, just need an EnvisaLink module to integrate and DSCLink software running on any PC (Windows or Unix, Raspberry Pi works). You can go wireless (except for the Siren) with PC1832, wireless sensors are more expensive though. To use wireless keypads you'll need a TR5164 wireless transceiver.
edokid Posted April 21, 2015 Author Posted April 21, 2015 Thanks, the family decided to veto the alarm so not going to bother anymore now that we have the door reenforced anyway.
edokid Posted June 3, 2015 Author Posted June 3, 2015 Going to try posting this here since I can't find a good home alarm forum so thought someone might know. I bought the DSC alarm system PowerSeries 1616 awhile ago and it works great, works well with the ISY and so on. I noticed on my one wired keypad it says that it has contacts to connect a wired sensor to piggyback off that as well, so I want to change my front door sensor from a wireless one to wired since might as well. Does anyone know how you wire it though as the manual isn't really clear. Like right now the wired keypad connects to the system using the 4 wire keybus cabling. The manual shows how to connect a sensor to the keypad, but what about the end at the panel? How do I specify what zone that wired sensor goes to, or do I need to change the wiring at the panel? It doesn't explain that at all so thought someone might know. Thanks!!!
xKing Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 Going to try posting this here since I can't find a good home alarm forum so thought someone might know. I bought the DSC alarm system PowerSeries 1616 awhile ago and it works great, works well with the ISY and so on. I noticed on my one wired keypad it says that it has contacts to connect a wired sensor to piggyback off that as well, so I want to change my front door sensor from a wireless one to wired since might as well. Does anyone know how you wire it though as the manual isn't really clear. Like right now the wired keypad connects to the system using the 4 wire keybus cabling. The manual shows how to connect a sensor to the keypad, but what about the end at the panel? How do I specify what zone that wired sensor goes to, or do I need to change the wiring at the panel? It doesn't explain that at all so thought someone might know. Thanks!!! You mean you want to connect the sensor to the keypad? So wire it like this - one wire to P/Z terminal on the keypad, another wire to BLK (black), use EOL resistor if you use them. Then go to section 020 of the programming and put a zone number in the appropriate slot, for example keypad 1 would be in the 1st slot. for example let's say you connecting the zone 07 to the keypad 1 *8 IC 020 07 # # in the keypad programming section 077 flag 3 - make sure that one is off I think that's it, no wiring at the panel is needed.
edokid Posted June 3, 2015 Author Posted June 3, 2015 Great thanks that helps, I was more wondering about the panel as I didn't know how that wired zone wise. It was the 020 for keypad zone assignment that was missing or that I didn't notice as that's what was throwing me off. Thanks!!
hart2hart Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 To original poster could I suggest you consider changing title of this topic. IMHO these are great locks and it appears your issues were more about hardening entry. Obviously it's your call but would hate for someone to make decision on lock because they were to lazy to read entire series of posts
edokid Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Oh I still believe the topic though because the reason I said it sucks is because I had it set to set off the alarm on the deadbolt as well as notifications if it's tampered with, forced in etc, and none of that worked or happened. Even after the fact I tried testing it with the highest sensitivity (where it says the alarm will go off more easily) and I was kicking the door myself or shaking the door etc and I could never get the built in siren to go off. Only time I've ever heard it was when I hold the button down to actually test it. The lock reported absolutely nothing out of the ordinary when it was kicked right in.
G W Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Oh I still believe the topic though because the reason I said it sucks is because I had it set to set off the alarm on the deadbolt as well as notifications if it's tampered with, forced in etc, and none of that worked or happened. Even after the fact I tried testing it with the highest sensitivity (where it says the alarm will go off more easily) and I was kicking the door myself or shaking the door etc and I could never get the built in siren to go off. Only time I've ever heard it was when I hold the button down to actually test it. The lock reported absolutely nothing out of the ordinary when it was kicked right in.Just maybe your unit is defective. Mine works as advertised, to the point I had to make it less sensitive.
edokid Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Not sure, it's 6 months old, so something that new being defective still earns the "it sucks" definition in my books lol. I just use it as a door lock now anyway, it's not connected to the ISY. With the door armour on it makes it too stiff so reliably control it remotely and I don't even really have any need for it. Might get another different lock for my garage door and move this one to the kitchen door so that they can be in sync, since we always forget to lock the garage door since it's separate from the house.
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