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Notifications for washer/dryer?


ryanmead83

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Posted

I feel like this is probably available on most higher end machines but mine are only a few years old so won't be replacing them any time soon.  Was wondering if there's any way to monitor them and notify myself when they are done?  For the washer I had thought of using a power meter plug in, either Insteon or a Z-Wave one, and when the out goes from whatever to nothing, I know it's done.  The dryer though uses that huge I think 240 power adapter and I've never seen any devices that look like that in terms of energy monitors.

 

I don't want this bad enough that I'd do tricks or whatever to make it work, like using sensors or weird wiring to make it work.  Just wondering if there's a plug and play way to do it, ideally using Z-Wave.  If not no biggie at all, thanks!

Posted

You can use the Insteon 2423A5 Syncrolinc to monitor the amount of power the washer/dryer is drawing. When the wattage drops to a set level you can have a program email you, turn on lights, etc.

Posted

Does it not work by having the appliance plug into it, and then into the outlet though?  The dryer is that huge type of plug not the normal wall one so it was more the dryer I wasn't sure how it would work.  Thought maybe it would almost have to be like one of the whole home Z-Wave type ones I've seen where they clamp over the mains, but instead over the dryer if something like that exists.

Posted (edited)

You can use the Insteon 2423A5 Syncrolinc to monitor the amount of power the washer/dryer is drawing. When the wattage drops to a set level you can have a program email you, turn on lights, etc.

 

The Syncrolinc is limited to 15a... I think code requires the dryer be on a 20a dedicated circuit but I don't know about Canada..

 

Jon...

 

Edit.. that should be washer rather than dryer

Edited by jerlands
Posted

A difficulty with using the SynchroLinc for a washer is that nearly all modern washers go through pause cycles during which virtually no power is used (the timer does not use enough power the register on a SynchroLinc). As for an electric dryer, using the Synchrolinc would require some electrical work including having access to a neutral wire.

Posted (edited)

ryanmead83,

 

The dryer outlet is "normal/standard." Just not the same as a 110/120 volt outlet for obvious reasons. A clamp-on sensor over the power cord would work.

Edited by stusviews
Posted

Does it not work by having the appliance plug into it, and then into the outlet though?  The dryer is that huge type of plug not the normal wall one so it was more the dryer I wasn't sure how it would work.  Thought maybe it would almost have to be like one of the whole home Z-Wave type ones I've seen where they clamp over the mains, but instead over the dryer if something like that exists.

 

I was thinking of a gas dryer, if your dryer is all electric, 240v,  then it wouldn't work.

Posted

My dryer is a 120v gas dryer so it was a no-brainer.

 

The clamp-on solution could work well if it is still available???

 

However, it cannot be clamped over the whole cable as there is no **net "differential current" in the cable unless there is a short inside that travels somewhere that isn't the cable. Not likely, with a ground conductor in the cable connected to the dryer shell, even with  faulted wiring.

 

 ** The current going in must be equal to the current coming  out,  Kirchhoff's Law = zero. Only one conductor can be involved in the measurement for the clamp to work.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchhoff%27s_circuit_laws

Posted

I use a synchrolinc on the washer and it took a bit of tweaking to account for the shutting down between cycles, but it works.

 

I never tried hooking my 240 dryer up.  You can actually make a current detector by splitting the insulation down the middle or otherwise separating the chords and then wrapping one conductor with another wire a bunch of times and hooking to an io linc.  How many time to wrap the wire needs to be figured out.

Posted (edited)

I use a synchrolinc on the washer and it took a bit of tweaking to account for the shutting down between cycles, but it works.

 

I never tried hooking my 240 dryer up.  You can actually make a current detector by splitting the insulation down the middle or otherwise separating the chords and then wrapping one conductor with another wire a bunch of times and hooking to an io linc.  How many time to wrap the wire needs to be figured out.

Nice

Are you effectively making an air-core current transformer?

 

Is the I/O Linc sensitive enough to detect  this?

Will the AC signal not injure the sensor input? Are more components needed?

Edited by larryllix
Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone, sounds like more work than it's worth lol.  The one for the washer might not be too bad, as the cycles I thought might mess with it as well, so would really depend on how they work, would have to run it through one and see.  I figure even if it does pause during the cycles, I'll just do something like if it's higher than 0 or whatever it is when off, set a variable to 1 indicating it is running.  If it drops to 0 or whatever off is, set the variable to 2, wait 5 or 10 minutes and then send notification.  That way if it does pause for a few minutes, the variable will be set to 1 and the timer starts to send notification.  Few minutes later if it starts up again, variable goes back to 0 and if statement is no longer true.  I don't really need instant real time, even if it's 10-15 minutes after it finishes.  I just want it to notify me over and over and over and over until motion is detected in the laundry room lol.  The dryer is more tricky since it's the huge 240v.  It's nothing that I desperately need, just thought there might be devices already in existence made for this.  Washer is more the important one as I hate forgetting clothes in there, but be nice to do dryer as well but not as big of an issue.

Edited by ryanmead83
Posted

Nice

Are you effectively making an air-core current transformer?

 

Is the I/O Linc sensitive enough to detect  this?

Will the AC signal not injure the sensor input? Are more components needed?

 

Yes.

 

Well I suppose you would put a bridge rectifier on it to get dc current.  I have never tried this with an io linc.  I did it just for kicks with my power drill as the current draw and I energized an electromagnet sufficiently to pick up a nut.  I did it to teach my kids.  I took a regular cheapo extension cord and split it down the middle.  Then I used some bell wire and just wrapped it a bunch of times around the wire and then again a bunch of times around the bolt to make an electro magnet.  A bunch of times was not that many, though.  It wasn't like I spent more than 30 minutes on the project.

Posted (edited)

Cool!

 

You could also wrap the other conductor around the core in the reverse direction to get more turns, and eliminate the slack in the "spare' conductor.

 

We used 3 wire CT's for metering that did exactly this. The two phases passing through were wound in opposite directions on one core with one secondary. The resultant is the sum/average of currents in the two legs.

 

I would think without some iron, an air core CT would have enough uumph to operate a relay directly though. Probably the sensor input on an I/O Linc, for sure. As you mentioned with the right amount of turns.

 

The other thing that tickles me a bit would be to bond a reed relay to the iron and hope that a small current would close the contacts and feed into an I/OLinc without out the secondary winding or the interfacing fuss. 

Edited by larryllix
Posted

Thanks everyone, sounds like more work than it's worth lol.  The one for the washer might not be too bad, as the cycles I thought might mess with it as well, so would really depend on how they work, would have to run it through one and see.  I figure even if it does pause during the cycles, I'll just do something like if it's higher than 0 or whatever it is when off, set a variable to 1 indicating it is running.  If it drops to 0 or whatever off is, set the variable to 2, wait 5 or 10 minutes and then send notification.  That way if it does pause for a few minutes, the variable will be set to 1 and the timer starts to send notification.  Few minutes later if it starts up again, variable goes back to 0 and if statement is no longer true.  I don't really need instant real time, even if it's 10-15 minutes after it finishes.  I just want it to notify me over and over and over and over until motion is detected in the laundry room lol.  The dryer is more tricky since it's the huge 240v.  It's nothing that I desperately need, just thought there might be devices already in existence made for this.  Washer is more the important one as I hate forgetting clothes in there, but be nice to do dryer as well but not as big of an issue.

 

 

Here is my program.  I found 6 minutes did the trick.

Washer Upstairs - [ID 00F8][Parent 00F7]

If
        Control (Old) 'Upstairs Washer' is switched Off
    And Control (Old) 'Upstairs Washer' is not switched On
    And From     8:00:00AM
        To       8:25:00PM (same day)
 
Then
        Wait  6 minutes 
        Send Notification to 'ellen text' content 'Laundry Upstairs'
 
Else
   - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')
 

Posted

Great thank you so much!  Kind of funny wanting this, I always see people discuss it and think to myself who really doesn't know when the washer is done?  But I'm realizing that's not the issue, I know full well it is done, I just need a text every 5 minutes to force myself up from whatever I'm doing and throw it in the dryer lol.

Posted

Personally I have no trouble hearing the buzzer on my W/D. If yours doesn't have one there is amazing device I found may work well. It's called a smartphone with a timer.

 

Sorry I could not resist. Seems like a solution in search of a problem.

Posted (edited)

Well my house is 3 stories and the laundry room is down in the basement, so no I can't actually hear the buzzer unless I'm in the basement as it's not a buzzer but more of a chime or song it plays.  The issue isn't hearing it as I'm downstairs often or I just know it's done as I rarely put a load in and totally forget about it.  It's more I put off taking it out of the dryer and folding it all the time, so wanted a reminder that doesn't let up until I get my butt in gear to do it.  I work from home as well so most times I hear it go off, but I'll be on a work call and then that goes another 40 mins and I forget about the dryer.  Like I said it's not critical, just seems to come up a lot on forums so thought I'd see if there was an easy way to do it, as I don't mind spending $100-150 or so for notification capability, as long as it doesn't mean hacking together something as I prefer to buy a device designed for the task.   Figured I'd check in case I missed a "WasherLinc" or "DryerLinc" type device. :)

 

Isn't all of home automation a solution in search of a problem?  I mean when I look at my house, there's nothing that the ISY does that I couldn't do before, it just makes it easier.  It's just light timers, motion sensors, 3-way switches and so on, all of which can easily be done by just walking across the room to the light switch, or with a $1 lamp timer from the dollar store.  There's no programs in my home that I'd ever have to rely on (like having it lock doors or turn down the heat) as I don't find it reliable enough.  

Edited by ryanmead83
Posted

No. Convenience and safety of my home mostly. When one switch turns on 30 different lights that I have no control over otherwise that is convenience. Really helps copensate for forgetfullness too.

 

What was I saying now....?

Posted (edited)

@ryanmead83

 

Depends on your specific use of HA. Personally I use it as part of a 4 layered home protection. Deter, detect, delay, defend. Well actually 3 layers. The last layer doesn't require HA.

Edited by elvisimprsntr
Posted (edited)

Another idea on the dryer.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPX5010GP/MPX5010GP-ND/464055

 

Plug that into the side of your dryer vent and wire it to an io linc.  When the dryer is on, I'm guessing it is producing at least 1.5 psi so the voltage output would go to 4.7 when the dryer is on, and .2v when off.

 

I have a lot of experience with the freescale pressure transducers and they are very durable.

 

I actually have some of almost the same model as these and will give it a try tonight.

Edited by apostolakisl
Posted (edited)

Another idea on the dryer.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPX5010GP/MPX5010GP-ND/464055

 

Plug that into the side of your dryer vent and wire it to an io linc.  When the dryer is on, I'm guessing it is producing at least 1.5 psi so the voltage output would go to 4.7 when the dryer is on, and .2v when off.

 

I have a lot of experience with the freescale pressure transducers and they are very durable.

 

I actually have some of almost the same model as these and will give it a try tonight.

Awesome. It doesn't spec how much current for the PS. It may run right off the I/O Linc aux output at 5vdc.

I would imagine the venturi action would need to be handled somehow.  Possibly a  small air scoop that could be rotated to calibrate???

 

 

@Xathros:  Need to fill it plain water but a large sign over it about "Corrosive acid solution". Intruders have to wonder nervously as it follows them around pointing and the sign flashes.  :)

Edited by larryllix
Posted

I am just testing my washing machine here for water problems. After two spills this week that drained down a floor and triggered my leak detector I am real nervous about running the washing machine unwatched, nervously.

 

Me thinks a large pan under the washer and laundry sink with a drain tube, leak sensor, On/Off module for the washer may be in order.

 

I don't know where these large  metal catch pans come from but the leak sensor is temporarily on the edge of the sink and the plug-in module is installed for the washer, so far. This to alleviate the immediate laundry sink overflow problem for now. A more permanent and coverall solution is being engineered.

 

Are these large catch basins custom made? 

How large of a lip is recommended?

Is a drain tube or some way to empty it needed?

I assume the leak detector would have to mounted on a slight raised thickness or material to keep it off the metal.

 

Anybody familiar with these things?

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