Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Hi everyone, Simple question, I'm installing a bathroom fan in my 1860's house that never had one before. I plan on using a insteon wireless thermostat to act as a humidistat to turn the fan on and off automatically. Obviously I will also require a manual switch for no humidity fan use. My question is, I have an extra fanlinc module. Has anyone used a fan linc module to control a bathroom fan? My fan doesn't have a light so I will have to cap the light feed but that's no big deal. My thoughts is I can add logic to the ISY to ramp up the fan as humidity climbs. Starting on low speed for low humidity and then go full speed when humidity peaks. Does anyone see an issue with running a bathroom fan on varying speeds? After all the fanlinc is designed to run a fan. Link to comment
LeeG Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Checked units from Lowes. Some specifically mention not running fan with a Dimmer. Others did not document. I would contact fan manufacturer. Ceiling fans are designed to start and run at low speed. Concerned exhaust fan may not start or overheat motor. Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 These are synchronous motors and do not like to be out of synch with the power supply. They will probably buzz a lot. Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 I bought a Broan fan. So just for the hell of it I checked their website. They actually have it in their faq but isn't definitive. It reads "Can all exhaust fans be put on a variable speed control switch?" And they answer "This depends on the product model, as some motors are not designed for use with speed controls, but most can." So that seems promising. Maybe I'll shoot them an email with my model number and see what they say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
stusviews Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Don't risk just buying a bathroom fan If you want different speeds, then select a multi-speed fan. Consult the Owner's manual to determine if it's FanLinc compatible. If you're not familiar with fans, post a list of candidates here. Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 The manufacturer says it will be fine running variable speeds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Teken Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 How many CFM / SONE's does this fan indicate? Link to comment
stusviews Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 The manufacturer says it will be fine running variable speeds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Then there's no problem using a FanLinc to control the speeds. BTW, Teken's concern is valid. Not just any fan will do, it has to have sufficient capacity for you needs. Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 It's 150cfm 1.4 sones Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Broan model QTXE150C Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Teken Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 It's 150cfm 1.4 sones Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That is not very much CFM's so consider running it a bit longer when you dial it down with the fan linc etc. 1.4 Sones is pretty quiet so it will be a more so (ideally) when you dial it down. Keeping in mind some motors tend to hum even though they indicate they can be adjusted with a dial etc. If this fan is intended for a washroom (toilet) and not a bathroom (shower / tub) then you may want to consider a inline exhaust fan. The benefit of these units are they can be located far away from the point of use and be very quiet while providing tremendous CFM upwards to 800 plus CFM's Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 That is not very much CFM's so consider running it a bit longer when you dial it down with the fan linc etc. 1.4 Sones is pretty quiet so it will be a more so (ideally) when you dial it down. Keeping in mind some motors tend to hum even though they indicate they can be adjusted with a dial etc. If this fan is intended for a washroom (toilet) and not a bathroom (shower / tub) then you may want to consider a inline exhaust fan. The benefit of these units are they can be located far away from the point of use and be very quiet while providing tremendous CFM upwards to 800 plus CFM's I bought this one as it was the biggest model they sell with varying the speed in mind. Using a bathroom fan calculator they recommended a 60 cfm model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Also this fan due to its cfm requires 6 inch ducting. I don't really want to go much bigger through my roof for a bathroom with just a bath/shower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Teken Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 I bought this one as it was the biggest model they sell with varying the speed in mind. Using a bathroom fan calculator they recommended a 60 cfm model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Understood but other variables need to be taken into account not just square footage. Since you live in Ontario (humid) when compared to other parts of Canada. A lot comes down to how you use the bathroom and the relative humidity you're comfortable with having etc. As many people know mold and (sweating) in the winter time is due to excessive moisture in the atmosphere. Unless you have a method to measure the humidity in the bathroom you should always try to shoot for 50% or less. Most folks just run the fan for 30 - 40 minutes after a shower / bath which is OK if you're just guessing. The reality is many people never run the fan while taking that shower / bath and simply activate the fan afterwards. This is incorrect and speeds up the natural process of water resistant dry wall from breaking down and molding etc. What should be done is operate the fan when taking that bath / shower and let it continue to run (either) until the humidity is at the level expected or operate it 30 - 45 minutes afterwards. In my home I don't even have to think about it as its all automated and the sensors in the bathrooms and around various parts of the building all monitor the temperature and humidity. Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Understood but other variables need to be taken into account not just square footage. Since you live in Ontario (humid) when compared to other parts of Canada. A lot comes down to how you use the bathroom and the relative humidity you're comfortable with having etc. As many people know mold and (sweating) in the winter time is due to excessive moisture in the atmosphere. Unless you have a method to measure the humidity in the bathroom you should always try to shoot for 50% or less. Most folks just run the fan for 30 - 40 minutes after a shower / bath which is OK if you're just guessing. The reality is many people never run the fan while taking that shower / bath and simply activate the fan afterwards. This is incorrect and speeds up the natural process of water resistant dry wall from breaking down and molding etc. What should be done is operate the fan when taking that bath / shower and let it continue to run (either) until the humidity is at the level expected or operate it 30 - 45 minutes afterwards. In my home I don't even have to think about it as its all automated and the sensors in the bathrooms and around various parts of the building all monitor the temperature and humidity. That's what I intend to do by having a insteon wireless thermostat control the fan to maintain a 50% humidity level automatically. Hopefully requiring no user intervention. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It has to be better that before. It had nothing for 160 years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Teken Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 It has to be better that before. It had nothing for 160 years. That's True! Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Just finished wiring the fan. I can't believe how quiet the fan is. I almost had to hold my breath to be able to hear it. Out of curiosity I tested the current draw to see the differences in speed. On low the current draw is about 25 watts, medium 33 and high was 50 watts. I was surprised to see how little power it draws. I just need to get my fearless friend to come over on Saturday to put the roof vent in for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
stusviews Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 If possible, use a wall vent. Less susceptible to leaks. Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 ...and birdproof the vent outlet. Our neighbourhood developed a bad bird problem in the KW area. I watched gracos in full speed fight open those flaps on the vents and fly right through without hardly slowing down. Crawling in the Rockwool and Fibreglass for days on end out at the lowest points of the attic to replace these vent tubes was the thrill of my life. The lice bath I got on one was great too. I didn't swallow any up two stories on a wobbly ladder. Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 The vent I have has a bird screen. I don't want to go through the wall because it's an old double brick house and I'm not inclined to bore through it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 The vent I have has a bird screen. I don't want to go through the wall because it's an old double brick house and I'm not inclined to bore through it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yeah, those are very hard to bore through. The cinder brick will dullen many a hole saw if you can even get through. You would need a diamond bore and try pricing one of those!! I remember trying to bore a smaller hole through those and threw away about 6-7 carbide bits before giving up. You have to pull bricks out, break them and then mortar them back in. Link to comment
stusviews Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Fortunately, you don't have a slate roof, too. Or do you? Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 No lol. Just asphalt shingles. The only tricky part will be lifting them ever so slightly to slide the cap with roofing cement under. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
Cormacs Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 I ordered the thermostat and some other goodies today. I can wait to start playing with it. The insteon thermostat is one of the devices I haven't played with yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I ordered the thermostat and some other goodies today. I can wait to start playing with it. The insteon thermostat is one of the devices I haven't played with yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Do it in the summer or with a heat gun. They like to break in the cold. Stay off shingles if there is any frost on them. Not that we would have that in Canuckistan. Link to comment
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