Gouldc Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 i installed the garage link today and after a couple hours of troubleshooting I have uncovered the requirement for a dry contact: http://www.aaaremotes.com/genie-38013r-contact-adaptor.html#.VocUkzbQzDI Does anyone have any experience with this? Do I simply put this between the Insteon and the opener motor?
stusviews Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 I'm not sure what an NGX wall console is, but if you have one, then yes, the device you linked to connects to the wall console and the I/O Linc NO and Com terminals.
Gouldc Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 That's their fancy way of saying button. What I can't determine is if the original button will still work. I'll give Genie a shout in the morning.
stusviews Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 I can't imagine Genie having a device that disabled the button or any remote in order to facilitate a dry contact.
Jimbo.Automates Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 Yes it will go between the motor control and the IOLinc. I used one on my Powermax before it was recalled and the new board is a series 2 so I don't need it anymore. I may have it somewhere and can try to find it and send it to you. Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
Gouldc Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 That would be real helpful Jimbo. Thanks!
Jimbo.Automates Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 OK, I will try to find it and pm you for your address. Can't remember if I decided to keep or toss it. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Elte156 Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 OK, I will try to find it and pm you for your address. Can't remember if I decided to keep or toss it. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Hi guys, I ran into the same problem yesterday trying to install the Insteon garage kit with my Genie GDO. It's an older Genie model and I can't even find any specs for it online. It has 4 pins/screws 1,2 is for the wall controller and 3,4 are for the safety light beams. Anyway I realized that the wall controller only has 2 wires going to it and there are 2 lit buttons (door and light). Wall Console - Series II Model: GWC-2 Part #: 35661R http://www.geniecompany.com/images/products/accessories/wall-console_GWC-2WBL.jpg I would assume it's a multi-function remote and not a dry contact switch. So could I get that module that Gouldc refered to: (Genie 38013R Dry Contact Adapter) http://www.aaaremotes.com/genie-38013r-contact-adaptor.html#.VznNd4SDGkp Run an additional set of wires from pins 1/2 to this module and then to the IOLinc. Would this set up work and allow me to have both the existing wall controller and IOLinc?
Jimbo.Automates Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 Hi guys, I ran into the same problem yesterday trying to install the Insteon garage kit with my Genie GDO. It's an older Genie model and I can't even find any specs for it online. It has 4 pins/screws 1,2 is for the wall controller and 3,4 are for the safety light beams. Anyway I realized that the wall controller only has 2 wires going to it and there are 2 lit buttons (door and light). Wall Console - Series II Model: GWC-2 Part #: 35661R http://www.geniecompany.com/images/products/accessories/wall-console_GWC-2WBL.jpg I would assume it's a multi-function remote and not a dry contact switch. So could I get that module that Gouldc refered to: (Genie 38013R Dry Contact Adapter) http://www.aaaremotes.com/genie-38013r-contact-adaptor.html#.VznNd4SDGkp Run an additional set of wires from pins 1/2 to this module and then to the IOLinc. Would this set up work and allow me to have both the existing wall controller and IOLinc? My series II does not need the adapter. Even though the wall remote has a light and lock, it's still is a dry contact. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Elte156 Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 My series II does not need the adapter. Even though the wall remote has a light and lock, it's still is a dry contact. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Sweet. I'll go ahead and try and hook it up that way. Electrically though, how does the Series II work if there are light and door buttons? Does the door button act as a dry switch and the light is a wireless signal?
paulbates Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) I had a sears GDO that was similar. It's a multifunction wall mounted remote with light , that still recognized a short contact between the two leads. Its very easy to test. My series II does not need the adapter. Even though the wall remote has a light and lock, it's still is a dry contact.Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Edited May 16, 2016 by paulbates
larryllix Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) Sweet. I'll go ahead and try and hook it up that way. Electrically though, how does the Series II work if there are light and door buttons? Does the door button act as a dry switch and the light is a wireless signal? Press your GDO operate button on the wall unit and see if the lights go out. If it does, and there are only two wires, then you just shorted the wires out to operate, and it should be just a contact with trickle current stealing lamp, same as a lit doorbell button. The lock button is a switchthat opens the circuit so the button can't short out the wires. Ohh...and don't forget to adjust that screw on the back end that controls the amount of pressure before it reverses for safety sake. Edited May 16, 2016 by larryllix
Elte156 Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 Press your GDO operate button on the wall unit and see if the lights go out. If it does, and there are only two wires, then you just shorted the wires out to operate, and it should be just a contact with trickle current stealing lamp, same as a lit doorbell button. The lock button is a switchthat opens the circuit so the button can't short out the wires. Ohh...and don't forget to adjust that screw on the back end that controls the amount of pressure before it reverses for safety sake. I'm a bit confused about what you said about the trickle current stealing lamp like a lit doorbell button. My wall remote has a physical button to turn on and off the 60W bulbs attached to my GDO. If the door button is a dry contact, what electrical mechanism is being used when I press the light button to turn on the 60W bulbs?
Brian H Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) I believe the Gene brand is similar to the one I tested. I bought a Chamberlan 903LM 3-Door Multi-Function Control Panel. To dissect and see how it works. The each button has a LED and resistor in them from the Red + to White - terminal. So they glowed in dark places. The Door Switches short the Red to White connections. The Light Switch connects a 1uf/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The Lock Switch connects a 22uF/50VDC capacitor across the Red to White connections. The control board must be able to determine what you want to do. By what is connected between the Red and White wires. Since the LED's and Capacitors have polarity. The Red has to be + and the White - Edited May 16, 2016 by Brian H
larryllix Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 (edited) I'm a bit confused about what you said about the trickle current stealing lamp like a lit doorbell button. My wall remote has a physical button to turn on and off the 60W bulbs attached to my GDO. If the door button is a dry contact, what electrical mechanism is being used when I press the light button to turn on the 60W bulbs? I was referring to this statement you made "Anyway I realized that the wall controller only has 2 wires going to it and there are 2 lit buttons (door and light). Wall Console - Series II Model: GWC-2 Part #: 35661R" and all the comments I made were about the wall control. The lights in the Operator mechanism are not related to the wall control. They run off the operator mechanism. Edited May 16, 2016 by larryllix
stusviews Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 Jumper the two wires at the wall switch. If that operates the door, then you're god to go. Connect the I/O Linc COM and NO to either the two wires at the wall switch or terminals 1 and 2 at the head unit.
Elte156 Posted May 16, 2016 Posted May 16, 2016 Jumper the two wires at the wall switch. If that operates the door, then you're god to go. Connect the I/O Linc COM and NO to either the two wires at the wall switch or terminals 1 and 2 at the head unit. I just tried jumping the 2 wires at the wall switch and it works; the door will open and close. I will wire the thing together tonight. Thanks guys.
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