mwester Posted July 23, 2017 Posted July 23, 2017 STL and SolidWorks files for the Double Button template are now in my repository. I'm glad the template is working well for you! Thanks!
mwester Posted July 23, 2017 Posted July 23, 2017 I did need to adjust the drawing just slightly for the maker bot 2. It was just slightly to tight in the longer dimension and I couldn't get the last tab to get over the bed. So just a hair longer and it fit great. Question: is ventilation a thing for this application? I wouldn't think so for something like wood but not sure what plastic the buttons are made out of. Thinking abs but not positive. My 2 concerns are setting off fire alarms in my building and general health safety. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk Lulzbot mini -- fits perfectly as-is (but to be fair, it wouldn't have fit with the factory adjustments; I spent a great deal of time calibrating the blasted thing -- and not just for the filament I was using; the factory settings were quite off for everything...) Regarding ventilation, I certainly would recommend it. I initially set it up on my workbench in the utility room, and ended up with enough visible smoke that I worried about setting of the smoke alarms. So now I move it to the basement bathroom where I can turn the exhaust fan on, and close the door so the fumes don't get into the rest of the basement/house. Some plastics are absolutely toxic when burning, and since I don't know what type the buttons are, I'm going to play it safe.
marcin Posted February 13, 2018 Author Posted February 13, 2018 All, I was in need of some blank KPL buttons, as usual I went to SmartHome website and as it turn out product is unavailable. I called SH customer service and I have been told by the representative that this product has been discontinued. Does anybody has any insight on this? I know Amazon has some left... When I started this endeavor with custom buttons, and during my search for Laser Engraver, I found Chinese lasers that everybody are familiar with and Glowforge - which I think I mentioned that while back, I took a plunge during their Kickstarter campaign and after long wait my laser finally arrived today. As soon as I will have it up and running I will update the post with engraving results. On separate note, as far as the color fill goes I found interesting product called Lacquer-Stick I think some of you preferred to have flat feel to the buttons vs. feeling engraving marks - I ordered some and I will update and let you know how that will work out.
mwester Posted February 13, 2018 Posted February 13, 2018 Been tinkering off and on with the 3D printer to see if I can make a replacement for the KPL buttons (which has worked pretty well). I can see if I can dig up the STL files for those, if you're interested. The issue is the finish on the face of the button -- it'll need to be filled, sanded smooth, and painted or laquered in all likelihood. (I've also been working (again, off and on) with making a replacement for the entire KPL faceplate -- with custom-sized buttons. The external geometry is done, and works great - now I need to work on the buttons themselves and how they link to the frame geometry. That project isn't ready yet, I'm afraid...) (Edited: found the source code for the KPL button generator -- and attached it. It's written in SCAD, so very easy to edit to tweak for your printer and filament characteristics. By default it generates three individual buttons (aka "chicklets") -- one double-wide standard, one small standard, and one double-wide that straddles two small buttons (i.e. a double-wide button that covers the "C" and "D" buttons on a KPL). If you prefer not to mess with SCAD, I've attached the default generated STL, which works great for me on a Lulzbot Mini, with ABS filament.) KPL_chicklet._new.scad KPL_chicklets.stl 1
marcin Posted October 17, 2018 Author Posted October 17, 2018 On 2/13/2018 at 12:01 AM, mwester said: Been tinkering off and on with the 3D printer to see if I can make a replacement for the KPL buttons (which has worked pretty well). I can see if I can dig up the STL files for those, if you're interested. The issue is the finish on the face of the button -- it'll need to be filled, sanded smooth, and painted or laquered in all likelihood. (I've also been working (again, off and on) with making a replacement for the entire KPL faceplate -- with custom-sized buttons. The external geometry is done, and works great - now I need to work on the buttons themselves and how they link to the frame geometry. That project isn't ready yet, I'm afraid...) (Edited: found the source code for the KPL button generator -- and attached it. It's written in SCAD, so very easy to edit to tweak for your printer and filament characteristics. By default it generates three individual buttons (aka "chicklets") -- one double-wide standard, one small standard, and one double-wide that straddles two small buttons (i.e. a double-wide button that covers the "C" and "D" buttons on a KPL). If you prefer not to mess with SCAD, I've attached the default generated STL, which works great for me on a Lulzbot Mini, with ABS filament.) KPL_chicklet._new.scad KPL_chicklets.stl Thank you for the files!
SLP Posted November 23, 2018 Posted November 23, 2018 Hi...has anyone found a supplier of the KPL buttons now that SmartHouse will only sell them as part of their custom engraving offering ? ( I.e. they have the buttons, but don't want us to be able to bypass their custom engraving offerings...very bad supplier behavior ) ...or as alternative, has anyone had luck taking their button sets and polishing/sanding off the printed content so you can use as a blank set ? Thanks in advance..
mwester Posted November 23, 2018 Posted November 23, 2018 Just use a mildly-abrasive kitchen cleaner and the markings will come right off. I use "Softscrub" and a washcloth. Easy.
rccoleman Posted November 23, 2018 Posted November 23, 2018 I used acetate-free nail polish remover to clean them off. Works fast and does a great job.
dmorales Posted April 14, 2019 Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) On 2/12/2018 at 11:01 PM, mwester said: Been tinkering off and on with the 3D printer to see if I can make a replacement for the KPL buttons (which has worked pretty well). I can see if I can dig up the STL files for those, if you're interested. The issue is the finish on the face of the button -- it'll need to be filled, sanded smooth, and painted or laquered in all likelihood. (I've also been working (again, off and on) with making a replacement for the entire KPL faceplate -- with custom-sized buttons. The external geometry is done, and works great - now I need to work on the buttons themselves and how they link to the frame geometry. That project isn't ready yet, I'm afraid...) (Edited: found the source code for the KPL button generator -- and attached it. It's written in SCAD, so very easy to edit to tweak for your printer and filament characteristics. By default it generates three individual buttons (aka "chicklets") -- one double-wide standard, one small standard, and one double-wide that straddles two small buttons (i.e. a double-wide button that covers the "C" and "D" buttons on a KPL). If you prefer not to mess with SCAD, I've attached the default generated STL, which works great for me on a Lulzbot Mini, with ABS filament.) KPL_chicklet._new.scad KPL_chicklets.stl @mwester, the files say they are no longer available, could you please re-upload them somewhere? Edited April 14, 2019 by dmorales
dmorales Posted April 14, 2019 Posted April 14, 2019 On 1/6/2017 at 2:53 PM, stmrocket said: I have posted a new version to the repository. It has tabs on the edges to align it with the etcher's platform. I also added notches in case anyone wants to use the rubber bands and grooves on the existing table to hold the plate. The button fit is fairly tight but there is a little give to compensate for variations in Smarthome's molded parts. Next, I will work on a fixture for the double wide buttons. It should be the same except for the opening... If there is interest, I can print some of these for folks on the forum. @stmrocket what is the actual size of your Neje worktable surface (the red plate)? I am wondering since the STLs in your repository are measuring less than the advertised size of 100mm*90mm of the worktable surface of your machine (looked it up on the link you first shared). I bought a copy of it on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GK2RHFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it says the red plate is also 100mm*90mm. I am just trying to find out if your template is going to work as is or if I need to modify it somehow. Thanks
mwester Posted April 14, 2019 Posted April 14, 2019 7 hours ago, dmorales said: @mwester, the files say they are no longer available, could you please re-upload them somewhere? Odd. The links in your quoted message worked just fine for me. Here's the URL they expand to -- try these links: https://forum.universal-devices.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8899 https://forum.universal-devices.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8900 One other note to make -- these were printed and tuned for a 0.50 dia nozzle; if your printer has a smaller shnozz, you may need to tweak the scad file dimensions to make a good fit!
rabbit1543 Posted April 25, 2019 Posted April 25, 2019 FWIW i also have the red baseplate on my NEJE. I dont know the size offhand but the template linked above was too small and i had to resort to making my own. I can upload the files later. I believe the model i have is the Neje DK-BL 1000. I can post the redesigned template later for anyone that may need it
dmorales Posted May 27, 2019 Posted May 27, 2019 On 4/25/2019 at 11:52 AM, rabbit1543 said: FWIW i also have the red baseplate on my NEJE. I dont know the size offhand but the template linked above was too small and i had to resort to making my own. I can upload the files later. I believe the model i have is the Neje DK-BL 1000. I can post the redesigned template later for anyone that may need it That would be awsome. Would very much appreciate it
rabbit1543 Posted May 29, 2019 Posted May 29, 2019 My versions attached. Hope this helps neje_double.stl neje_single.stl 1
thedishking Posted June 18, 2019 Posted June 18, 2019 Hello, Thank you to everyone who has offered a lot of contributions here. My immediate question is has anyone tried using masking tape (plain white, painter's blue, etc.) instead of the laser tape? Thanks for your input!
marcin Posted June 18, 2019 Author Posted June 18, 2019 Masking tape did not worked for me. Left a residue that was hard to clean up.
larryllix Posted June 18, 2019 Posted June 18, 2019 54 minutes ago, marcin said: Masking tape did not worked for me. Left a residue that was hard to clean up. Masking tape paper backing and adhesive cleans off with WD-40. Let soak for abut 15 minutes and just wipe off. Use some detergent based spray to clean up WD-40 residue.
Banichi Posted June 18, 2019 Posted June 18, 2019 Masking tape paper backing and adhesive cleans off with WD-40. Let soak for abut 15 minutes and just wipe off. Use some detergent based spray to clean up WD-40 residue. You use this instead of laser tape? No scarring?Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
larryllix Posted June 18, 2019 Posted June 18, 2019 You use this instead of laser tape? No scarring?Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk Nope. Marcin did.Sent using Tapatalk 1
marcin Posted June 18, 2019 Author Posted June 18, 2019 Initially when I started the engraving I used blue masking tape. I encountered few issues. First is a paper based product with adhesive that was not designed to be for lasering. Toxic fumes aside, masking tape charred on the edges and made painting the buttons impossible, left the residue as I mentioned in my post. You can try. Up to you. I had great results with laser tape. I also used vinyl transfer tape with good results.
marcin Posted June 18, 2019 Author Posted June 18, 2019 Here is the transfer tape that people with glowforge are using to mask their material. https://www.uscutter.com/TransferRite-Medium-Tack-582U
Banichi Posted June 19, 2019 Posted June 19, 2019 Initially when I started the engraving I used blue masking tape. I encountered few issues. First is a paper based product with adhesive that was not designed to be for lasering. Toxic fumes aside, masking tape charred on the edges and made painting the buttons impossible, left the residue as I mentioned in my post. You can try. Up to you. I had great results with laser tape. I also used vinyl transfer tape with good results. Been using a green laser tape. It's a little difficult to work with but results are good. If masking tape had similar results then I would just use that. But it doesn't sound like it really does so I'll stick with what I've got. But I'll also check out that other thing you posted. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
thedishking Posted June 21, 2019 Posted June 21, 2019 Thanks. I just ordered some of the tape that Marcin mentioned. Going to try on the economical printer. What font / size are all of you using? I am excited to get more characters on a small button. PENINSULA LIGHTS (2 lines in upper case font) is my goal. If something is close to original font, that would be marvelous. This is certainly a lot classier than the old paper buttons we used to print and put in the clear buttons. Thanks again for all that you have done. Definitely broadening our horizons!
thedishking Posted June 24, 2019 Posted June 24, 2019 Wanted to post an update. I was able to make a few. Certainly getting better than the first unit. Initially tried Arial 24 Bold. Going to try a few different sizes. The far left was first done in Microsoft paint. The next few were done in Illustrator, and I was trying some paint on them. The last is from the 50 pack as reference. I have uploaded a picture of the software that is running the engraver. I am finding decent results with 8 passes. 1
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