New garage door opener

[TheWabit]

I went from an old Genie to a new Chamberlain. I am quicly learning that the newer technology doesnt work with the I/O linc the same as it did before. I have read through the posts but am still confused. I connected the wires to where the wall remote is connected with no results. Is there a different way to wire these that it will work with the ISY?

 

Thanks

[larryllix]

I went from an old Genie to a new Chamberlain. I am quicly learning that the newer technology doesnt work with the I/O linc the same as it did before. I have read through the posts but am still confused. I connected the wires to where the wall remote is connected with no results. Is there a different way to wire these that it will work with the ISY?

 

Thanks

What exactly doesn't work? The status/sensing or the control of the operator?

 

Is this a transfer of an IOLinc to another location or just a change of opener?

Edited April 12, 2016 by larryllix

[stusviews]

Chamberlain GDO wall switches are usually multifunction devices and don't have a pair of contacts that you can connect the I/O Linc to. Depending on the model GDO you have, there may be a simple push button control available. Another solution is the wire the I/O Linc to a remote control. Soldering required.

[TheWabit]

Larry - This is just a change of openers. The sensing works fine (green light on when open/off when closed). I push the button on the IO Link and it clicks but no door movement. I try to operate it through the ISY and it doesn't move. But it sounds like - from Stu - that the contacts used for the Multifunction Switch cant be used like the older models.

[larryllix]

I guess I don't knw why any garage opener pushbutton cannot be paralleled with an IO/Linc contact.

 

The IOLinc contact needs to be normally open and temporarily provide a closed contact to the operator.

 

Makes sure you have used the N/O contact on the IOLinc and that the closure is temporary, as in a short pulse, similar to the length of time you lean on the pushbutton. There is a duration setting and a pulse setting in the options. About 0.5 to 1.0 seconds should work.

 

Of course, your ISY program has to support this ON/Off pulse.

 

Other than that, make sure you are not connected to the MS, light or lockout contact  wires in the control console.

 

I had a Genie and moved. Now I have a Chamberlain rebranded but never have wired up control to either. I only monitor door position until this ALL ON nuisance is resolved. Never had one of those either,

[MWareman]

Another solution is the wire the I/O Linc to a remote control. Soldering required.

This is what I did - works well. The latest (MyQ) GDOs don't use the simple momentary short to operate technique of other systems.

 

Another solution seems to be replacing the supplied wall switch with an older (non-MyQ) one. You'll lose the LCD and the ability to program it from the button though.

Edited April 12, 2016 by MWareman

[stusviews]

larryflix, most Chamberlain (and other) multifunction GDO wall switches don't have an open/close set of contacts. Rather, they use electronic wizardry (also known as circuits) that use two wires to display the time, leave and/or play messages and tend to other trivial matters such as turning on a light and opening the garage door. Some even provide WiFi capability enabling a smartphone to manage the messages and, incidentally, control entry as well

[larryllix]

larryflix, most Chamberlain (and other) multifunction GDO wall switches don't have an open/close set of contacts. Rather, they use electronic wizardry (also known as circuits) that use two wires to display the time, leave and/or play messages and tend to other trivial matters such as turning on a light and opening the garage door. Some even provide WiFi capability enabling a smartphone to manage the messages and, incidentally, control entry as well

Ahhh, I see, and thanks for that.

That explains how they get so many functions over just a few conductors.

In effect this makes the wall mounted controls the same as a remote, but with copper instead of the radio transmission medium.

 

I figured we are talking about connecting across the hardware pushbutton component. This would be a similar technique as soldering into the remote, then.

[TheWabit]

So in your experience, is the remote battery an issue?

[stusviews]

No different than any GDO remote. You may want to use a battery eliminator.

[TheWabit]

So I have opened up the remote. Do the 2 wires from the IOlinc get soldered to that pushbutton connections on the board?

[stusviews]

Yes. A good test is to momentarily jumper the pushbutton connections.

[Teken]

Just out of curiosity but did you try to connect the I/O Linc in parallel at the GDO itself?

 

This technique usually works out just fine 90% of the time and reduces the odds of interrupting the wall mounted smart key pad.

 

 

=========================

 

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

[TheWabit]

Do you mean combine the IO wires with the wall mount wires into slots?

[Teken]

Do you mean combine the IO wires with the wall mount wires into slots?

 

Yes at the GDO main board where the wall mounted wires inserted to. You have a 50/50 chance at this point that it will operate just fine and its FREE to check.

 

If not then you can proceed to the next step of using a dumb switch or solder on to a remote switch.

[TheWabit]

Ahh yes - I did try that first. The IOlinc clicked when I activated it but nothing else happened.

[Teken]

Ahh yes - I did try that first. The IOlinc clicked when I activated it but nothing else happened.

 

If you're confident the wiring is correct and the proper timing was selected. Then, sadly the next step is to use a dumb switch or solder on to a spare remote controler.

[TheWabit]

I am glad you said wiring - I cant remember on my old GDO. Did it matter which wire from the IOlinc went into which slot (it is a slot on my new one but was just a screw on the old board)?

[Teken]

I am glad you said wiring - I cant remember on my old GDO. Did it matter which wire from the IOlinc went into which slot (it is a slot on my new one but was just a screw on the old board)?

 

Um, yes it would matter!

 

LOL . . .

 

Also keep in mind you may have to play with the timing from the I/O Linc. I know some folks had to use from 0.2, 0.5 to a full 1.0 seconds to make the system consistent and reliable.

 

Please read the full manual as to the proper wiring outlined for this endeavor and keep us in the loop of the final outcome.

[TheWabit]

Maybe I will go try it again - I did play with timing in the ISY but I am not sure I paid attention to the wiring. I will let you know - thanks! BTW - I meant the slots in GDO  - not the IOLinc, I know THAT matters.

Edited April 22, 2016 by TheWabit