What to do with an empty switch/outlet location?

[go_robot_go]

Just wanted to tap the UDI hivemind for inspiration:

 

I have a few places in my house where there are ceiling fans hooked up with the fan and light kit on separate switches, and I'm about to replace these with fans that I can control from a single switch. This is going to leave me with several places in my house where I have a switch that is no longer going to be of use, but where I also have ready access to power.

 

Do any of you have any useful/creative/cool ideas for things that I can do with these empty gang locations, apart from hooking up additional Insteon keypads or just covering it over with a blank plate?

[stusviews]

Install a motion sensor dimmer directly to the light wire using one of the extra wires in the switch box. Adjust the brightness level to be a night light.

 

Whenever someone enters/walks through that room in darkness the "night light" will turn on for the specified time. If the light is already on or turned on above the sensor dim level, then the sensor will have no effect. I'm using that method in two locations.

[Teken]

You can use them for intercoms, speakers, video cameras . . .

[mwester]

 I've been trying various things for that same situation

 

When I built the house, I instructed to electrician that I wanted all full-size switches (none of the multiple-stacked-switch thingies), and I wanted each room wired to support a ceiling fan, plus a few other specifics about switches for outdoor lights.

 

As I've expanded using Keypads and such, I've a number of places where there's now an un-used location in a dual-switch box.

 

So, the first one -- I put a SwitchLinc Dimmer in the empty spot, thinking to myself that I'd find it useful as a scene controller at some point.  That hasn't worked out -- I have lots of scenes, but few in that area that are triggered by switches.  Door sensors, motion sensors, Alexa, but not wall switches.  So effectively, that was a waste of money.  I'm pulling it out when next I need a spare.

 

Next one I replaced with a decora-size night light.  Great concept, but wow is that thing BRIGHT!   It ended up banished to the basement near the workshop, where's actually useful (I can pretty much find anything I want from my workbench without turning on the lights... oh well, it was a nice try.)

 

My office was wired for a ceiling fan, but I don't need it.  So that double-switch is now my "test" area for new z-wave switches.  Again, not a practical way to close off an extra unused switch bay, but it works for me.

 

The blank plates look horrid.  Really bad, even I can see that (and I can't match socks, so if *I* can see that it looks bad, it's really really bad!)

 

Everywhere else in the house, I've ended up just installing plain old decora switches, not wired to anything.  My OCD hates having switches that don't do anything -- ouch ouch! -- but it's the only solution that's passed the Significant Other Acceptance Test.

[fitzpatri8]

My standard technique is now to put a SwitchLinc Dimmer in the position nearest the doorway, then a KeypadLinc next to it. I link the dimmer to control the main room lighting scene (including the fan light and a couple of outlets or modules), and link the main keypad buttons to just the fan light. I find this arrangement easier for day-to-day use (it's quicker and easier to tap the top of a SwitchLinc without looking at it than it is to hit the correct button on a keypad), and it is more intuitive for guests.

 

With an ISY, you can also sneak in an additional feature. Use a fast off (quick double tap) on the SwitchLinc to trigger a program to turn all room devices off.

[Javi]

Although I live in an old home and have the opposite problem, where I needed to convert single gang boxes to double gang boxes, I always though speaker control would be a great addition to each room.  One day I may implement it but it might be though a kpl as I do not have extra space.

 

Something like the following, there are many variations for different systems.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Control-Amplifier-Wireless-Operation/dp/B01BRL5NZ2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A301ADMPQDCRYF

 

Also if you still use an ir remote an ir receiver or blaster,

Somthing like this:

http://www.xantech.com/Infrared/Infrared/IREmitters/38020/

 

http://www.amazon.com/780-10-RP-Receiver-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000NUV8XU

 

My standard technique is now to put a SwitchLinc Dimmer in the position nearest the doorway, then a KeypadLinc next to it. I link the dimmer to control the main room lighting scene (including the fan light and a couple of outlets or modules), and link the main keypad buttons to just the fan light. I find this arrangement easier for day-to-day use (it's quicker and easier to tap the top of a SwitchLinc without looking at it than it is to hit the correct button on a keypad), and it is more intuitive for guests.

With an ISY, you can also sneak in an additional feature. Use a fast off (quick double tap) on the SwitchLinc to trigger a program to turn all room devices off.

 

I agree, when most people enter a dark room they have an automatic response of touching the wall to hit a switch, so my setup is the same.