Keypad Linc Dimmer and 4' Fluorescent fixture

[PhanTomiZ]

I finally installed my KPL 8 button dimmer in my garage.  I have 2 incandescent 60 watt bulbs and one 4' fluorescent light fixture.  I had very good intentions of disconnecting it, but it looked like it was working good, so I thought a few days wouldn't hurt and I would get around to disconnecting it next week.  

 

Well, I woke this morning to " Can't communicate with KPL, please check connections".  I know the KPL had switched the lights on and off about 100 times in 5 days.

 

Is it possible running a 4' fluorescent light fixture from a KPL dimmer could damage the KPL?  I thought, if anything the fixture could burn out, but didn't think I could fry my KPL in 5 days.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks

PhanTomiZ

[mwester]

It's possible - but the most probable failure in the KPL would be the output TRIAC, which wouldn't prevent it from communicating.  It's also possible that the fixture (if it uses an electronic ballast) is damaged -- and putting enough noise (or sucking out enough signal) to cause problems.  Or, perhaps nothing has failed, it's just in a state where it's messed up (either the KPL or the ballast).

 

So, the first step to do is to remove that florescent fixture - ASAP.  Then pull the tab on the KPL to reset same, and see if it comes back to life.  Then test the load on the KPL to see if that part of it is still working.

[jtara92101]

KPLs are not designed for fluorescent ballast loads! And they cannot be usefully dimmed with a triac dimmer.

 

You need to either disconnect it, put it on an on/off module of some sort, or get a 0-10V fluorescent ballast which can be controlled with an Insteon 0-10V module (but that doesn't make much sense...).

 

Sure, I can see it causing a wider failure of the KPL beyond just the SCR, due to heat damage.

[PhanTomiZ]

It's possible - but the most probable failure in the KPL would be the output TRIAC, which wouldn't prevent it from communicating.  It's also possible that the fixture (if it uses an electronic ballast) is damaged -- and putting enough noise (or sucking out enough signal) to cause problems.  Or, perhaps nothing has failed, it's just in a state where it's messed up (either the KPL or the ballast).

 

So, the first step to do is to remove that florescent fixture - ASAP.  Then pull the tab on the KPL to reset same, and see if it comes back to life.  Then test the load on the KPL to see if that part of it is still working.

 

Quickly went out to the garage and disconnected the Load (consisting of the 4' fluorescent fixture and 2 60w bulbs).  Pulled the tab on the KPL, waited 10 seconds and pushed it back in.  Lights came back on the KPL and it's back alive and now communicating.  Checked the output voltage of the Load of the KPL and looks good.  Tomorrow I will connect the 2 60w lights, disconnect the fluorescent fixture and see if it still outputs enough to power 120 w.  Hopefully no extended damage to the output Triac/SCR...

 

Thanks for the glimmer of hope

 

PhanTomiZ

[stusviews]

Even at full on, TRIACS clip the waveform. Using such a dimmer on a non-dimmable load (e.g., fluorescent) can destroy the dimmer, the load or both. Even if it works, you will drastically shorten the life of one, the other or both.