SynchroLinc status doesn't update in ISY without query

[someguy]

I have a synchroLinc that I've tried doing a factory reset and then a restore and it still won't update in ISY.  here is the "Show Device Links Table" and "Compare"

Any suggestions?

[larryllix]

SynchroLincs were produced by Insteon with bad capacitors in the power supply, as the PLMs were and do not last for very long.

The only things you could try are to get new capacitors and replace them or toss it out. Insteon doesn't produce them anymore in their new product world.

[kclenden]

11 hours ago, someguy said:

Any suggestions?

The Device Links table looks totally wrong.  Besides the fact that both rows show "Record mismatch", the data looks wrong.  Where I would expect to see the address of your PLM, I see the address for the SynchroLinc, and where I would expect to see option data, I see the address of your PLM.  The fact that the records seem so totally wrong could lead credence to @larryllix's theory about a possible failing power supply.  Doing a restore should have gotten rid of the totally wrong records, but...

The ISY Links table for the SynchroLinc doesn't look right to me either.  For pretty much every device I've ever added to my ISY, both an E2 and an A2 record (i.e. two rows) have been created.  I have no experience with a SynchroLinc, and have no reason to believe that the ISY Links table is wrong (other than my experience with E2 and A2 records).  Having said that, if I were having this problem, I would try removing the SynchroLinc from the ISY and then readding it.  However, you'd have to fix any programs and scenes it was used in after you readd it.

[someguy]

Okay, thank you, larryllix and kclenden.  i tried removing it and adding it again and it still has the same listings on the "Device Links Table". 

 

I guess she goes into a landfill.  Any suggestions on how to recycle the thing instead?

[Techman]

If you have Zwave the Aeotec Smart Switch 6 or the Smart Switch 7 (available soon)  would be a good replacement for the SynchroLinc

[kclenden]

6 hours ago, someguy said:

i tried removing it and adding it again and it still has the same listings on the "Device Links Table". 

Like I said, I have no experience with the SynchroLincs so having a single E2 record in the Device Links Table is probably normal.  An E2 record is a "controller" record which indicates the device is a controller of the device whose address is in the 3rd-5th bytes.  So in this case, it controls the PLM which makes sense.  When its status changes it should send a message to the PLM (i.e. control the PLM).  So I don't think the Device Links Table is the problem assuming when you restored (and also readded) it the Device Links Table looks like the ISY Links Table.  So it looks more and more like @larryllix nailed the problem right away.

[Brian H]

You did a Factory Reset on the SynchroLinc? That should have cleared its link database.

I tested with a Factory Reset SynchroLinc and added it to my ISY994i 5.0.16C firmware.

The show devices links test showed one entry. The link starting with E2 and then the PLM's six digit Insteon ID.

I looked inside mine and as pointed out by larryllix it has the poor capacitors in it as a PLM and the values seem to point out it also has a switching power supply. Though the supply chip must be on the solder side as I can't verify it is a switcher.

[hart2hart]

Okay, thank you, larryllix and kclenden.  i tried removing it and adding it again and it still has the same listings on the "Device Links Table". 
 
I guess she goes into a landfill.  Any suggestions on how to recycle the thing instead?

I’ll pay shipping if you want to get rid of syncrolinc. I’d like to replace capacitors and see if it will work. I’ve been using 2 for many years dreading when one or both fail.

[larryllix]

I have one that already failed. The PSU caps failure was just a guess on my part but it co-coincides and looks like  the PLM problems so I suspect SmartHome quality policies were used on most of their products.

When the SynchroLinc was dropped, I doubt it was because Smarthome stopped manufacturing them. It was most likely because SmartHome dropped the Chinese manufacturer, after getting so many bad products that gave SH a bad reputation. Cheapest bidder and the uneducated capitalist concept.

[Brian H]

40 minutes ago, larryllix said:

I have one that already failed. The PSU caps failure was just a guess on my part but it co-coincides and looks like  the PLM problems so I suspect SmartHome quality policies were used on most of their products.

When the SynchroLinc was dropped, I doubt it was because Smarthome stopped manufacturing them. It was most likely because SmartHome dropped the Chinese manufacturer, after getting so many bad products that gave SH a bad reputation. Cheapest bidder and the uneducated capitalist concept.

The 2450 I/OLinc also has a switching supply. My old ones was a 10uF/25V C7. Then they tried a 10uF/50V C7. My latest one is a 220uF/50V C7.

[someguy]

3 hours ago, Brian H said:

The 2450 I/OLinc also has a switching supply. My old ones was a 10uF/25V C7. Then they tried a 10uF/50V C7. My latest one is a 220uF/50V C7.

how could I test mine's capacitors?  I have a voltmeter.  

[larryllix]

44 minutes ago, someguy said:

how could I test mine's capacitors?  I have a voltmeter.  

Simplest test I know of is to read voltage across the cap (unplugged device). If holding a charge, probably good cap.
Short out the capacitor first to discharge any residual charge voltage and protect your meter.
Using an ohms scale place leads across the cap. Watch readings for charge up to infinity ohms.
Reverse leads and repeat.

If no charge up indication, or constant resistance reading, unsolder cap (at least one end) and try again.
If still no indications of charging try another ohms scale. If all scales are exhausted on the meter, replace the cap.

Another method is to put meter on AC voltage and read voltage live with device plugged in. Careful! Not recommended if you have no experience.
Depending on electronic meter, should be very little voltage.If more than 10% voltage cap is likely bad.
If older mechanical type meter may read about half voltage and test is useless.

 

[gzahar]

With device unplugged!, run your finger over the end of the capacitor. Most electrolytic caps when gone bad will bulge (or completely blow out) at this location. You will generally see an X looking score used to accommodate the venting of this type of failure at this location. (The scoring is there always, not due to a failure).