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2477D Dual Band SwitchLinc Dimmer


Brian H

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Teken,

 

Sorry to hear about your ISY. I am sure Michel will make it right.

 

I would love to hear what happens if you purposely put noisy stuff on your home wiring.

 

So when you say the spec sheet says less than 1 watt, you mean the 2477d?

 

Lou

 

Lou,

 

There was a update on the Smartpro site regarding the Insteon devices. I had already commented on the SH forum that after taking a few moments to read over the details.

 

In the spec sheet for ALL of the devices was a line indicating the power consumption. :shock:

 

It stated that all of the switchlincs consumed less than 1 watt. It also stated to my surprise that the outlet linc consumes 2 watts.

 

All in all this validates all the hard work IndyMike had done previously to see what real world devices he had on hand consumed.

 

I am happy to see that this was provided finally, since I am aware many people before me have asked for this very simple answer but never got a reply.

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Hi Teken,

 

What seems to be the problem? Please contact our support so that we can find the root cause.

 

With kind regards,

Michel

 

Michel,

 

Apologies for the late reply to your question. I just spent the better half of the day trouble shooting my ISY.

 

I can tell you this is not something I want to experience again. But, in all honestly having had to trouble shoot this problem made me aware, and more cautious as to what can and can't be done when something happens expectingly.

 

Problem:

 

Last night I was doing some test on my Insteon network and for some odd reason my wireless signal dropped off.

 

I was not aware of this until it was too late, and the command had already been sent (partially I believe)

 

From there on out I was not able to log in, current status of the network was not accurate, or reflective of the live environment.

 

Logging in locally, and remotely did not change anything. Pressing all the local buttons did in fact control all of the loads, and any previous Insteon programming was still in affect.

 

I attempted to restore the ISY, PLM, and Devices one at a time. This did not produce any positive results.

 

After three hours of watching nothing happen I decided it would be best to do a scratch install ( pretend everything is new and do all the leg work again )

 

I wasn't happy about it . . . But, in my mind I would rather just endure a few more hours of linking, cross linking, and reprogramming then endure a whole life cycle of unreliable conditions, performance, and scenes.

 

I did a full factory reset of the PLM, but did not do a full factory reset of the ISY as I recall (and fearful) that my purchased apps would be lost etc.

 

After almost 12 hours I have completed 70% of the testing and all seems to be fully operational.

 

So the short version: Sent out a command to turn on my central exhaust fan. During that same instant my wireless connection dropped off. Upon reacquiring my wireless network connection.

 

The ISY was unresponsive, and not operable. Restoring the ISY from several current back ups did not bring back the unit to operational status.

 

I was not aware that a drop in connectivity would cause such hazardous results? :oops::(

 

If I may ask, and request if in some future release that IF the ISY see's a drop in the network that the default action be that it does nothing.

 

I am not sure if this is the case now, but the scenario of what happend to me is extremely unsettling.

 

Also, could someone please confirm that IF a person does a back up are the scenes that have been created are they also stored in these data bases? :?:

 

Because none of the scenes would work at all. Also one of the biggest problems I experienced was that the ISY would repeatedly scan the network and attempt to load information from what I am assuming from the PLM, and my Insteon network.

 

Stopping this process was impossible . . . :evil:

 

I dunno how a drop in connectivity could result in such mayhem. But, all is well right now and I am dead tired!

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Teken,

 

I am so very sorry to hear this and I WISHED you had contacted us before doing any factory reset and other intrusive things. I think we should put a huge sign on the quick start guide:

DO NOT FACTORY RESET/START FROM SCRATCH/RESTORE without prior consultation with UDI!

 

In short, in 99.9% of the cases - and without knowing the root cause - factory reset and restore devices/plm will do nothing but to cause frustration and extra work.

 

When you do a restore, you will have to be patient and basically do not try to do anything while ISY is doing its thing. In the process, ISY might use many tasks and block you from other operations simply because they are gonig to make matters MUCH worse.

 

I do not understand what Wirelss connection dropped means. Can you please provide me with exact steps? i.e. What test were you doing when the wireless signal dropped? Also, was the basic problem the fact that you didn't have accurate status for your devices?

 

Could I trouble you to send me you Error Log (Tools | Error Log)?

 

Again, sincere apologies.

 

With kind regards,

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Error log has been sent out. Also I am having a bit of a problem with the self signed cert for IE 8 if we could look at this as well that would be appreciated. I have already cleared the cache in all of the browsers I use. Cleared the Java temp folder multiple times. Accepted and allowed the cert to be installed and lowered the security tab to low.

 

Still the browser complains that there is something wrong. At the moment it does not appear to affect anything. But, I know this one small thing may develop into something unforseen or unexpected later on.

 

I would agree perhaps on the wiki page there should be a step by step procedure or best practices written down for future reference(s).

 

Should someone else have similar problems, they would know the steps to follow, then progress in a more invasive recovery.

 

Again it was not the end of the world as I had the time and I did learn alot as to what to do, and what didn't produce any positive results in the matter.

 

As always you support and those of the UDI team, and the members on this board are first rate !!

 

P.S.

 

As per the wireless connectivity: While using my wireless router to connect too my ISY, the signal dropped off. About 5 seconds later the connection to the router was restored, and from there on the ability to control, update, or view the status of the ISY was not available.

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I wonder if you didn't have a "restore devices" command running. If you purposefully or inadvertantly set this into motion it will completely take over your ISY and your system will more or less go down for what could be hours until it finishes. And if you pull the power or otherwise try to mess with things it may take even longer.

 

I ran a "restore devices" on purpose once and was quite anxious for about 4 hours as it did its thing. I factory reset every single device as I had, over the course of several months, replaced every single device in my house and think a few left over commands were lingering around and figured it would be easier to just let ISY write new commands to blank devices. It worked.

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I wonder if you didn't have a "restore devices" command running. If you purposefully or inadvertantly set this into motion it will completely take over your ISY and your system will more or less go down for what could be hours until it finishes. And if you pull the power or otherwise try to mess with things it may take even longer.

 

I ran a "restore devices" on purpose once and was quite anxious for about 4 hours as it did its thing. I factory reset every single device as I had, over the course of several months, replaced every single device in my house and think a few left over commands were lingering around and figured it would be easier to just let ISY write new commands to blank devices. It worked.

 

At that time when everything stopped working I did not do any invasive corrections or repairs as it was past 11:00 PM and had a busy day to look forward to.

 

But, I have to agree when you do a restore for anything, or a factory reset the next 2-4 hours is white knuckle driving wondering is everything OK, or how long will this take . . . :?

 

So far everything seems to be alright and I have received some helpful insight and feed-back from Michel as to what to look for and correct.

 

I am under way and will confirm with all once this is done. My apologies for taking this thread way off topic with my problems.

 

I will start a new thread to follow up, much thanks to you all for your continued support and insight in all related teaching and knowledge sharing with me. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

First Disclosure - I am definitely a newbie but still rather technical and wanted to share some installation headaches/ resolutions that might be helpful to others:

 

1.) Compact fluorescent Light Problem - when installing 2477Ds , I triple checked the wiring , yet everytime I threw the breaker to enable the circuit, the 2477D "beeped" continously which the owners manual /troubleshooting guide section says indicates you have miswired the switch. So I uninstalled the switch and used some jumper wires with alligator clips to simulate the 2477 and confirmed the wiriing was correct. Next I installed the switch, but used the temporary jumper/allegator clips and this time the switch worked fine (no beeps).

Next I reinstalled the switch in permanent fashion, but to my surprize when I threw the breaker, the beeping had returned. The problem was that the flood lights I was using were nVision Compact florescent (14 W). Once these floodlight were replaced with traditional, switch worked fine.

 

2) Bridging Problem with 2477D - I could not get the (2) 2477Ds -my only dual band bridging devices to communicate. I knew they were on separate phases. The instructions say to press the set button 4 times quickly. I was pressing until I could hear the audible beep and doing this 4 times. Turns out you need to press very quickly- like as fast as you can! The instructions say the 2477D will start beeping but it never did, the only response was the LED would turn solid white almost immediately. Turns out (I believe) that the two 2477D bridged almost immediately (but I didn't realize). Next I could not get the ISY99i to detect the 2477Ds (using latest firmware 2.8.10). The problem with the 2.8.10 firmware was that I hadn't cleared the cache- which makes the administration council act very poorly.

 

Once I got past these issues, system started behaving as expected. Hope this helps someone...

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1) CFLs should NOT be used with a dimmer type switch. Unless the CFL is clearly marked as dimmable.

The fact that the standard incandescent bulbs did work. Is another clue that CFLs are not OK with the 2477D.

The Full Users Manual also cautions to only use incandescent type bulbs.

 

So if you decide to use a CFL bulb in the lights. Use a relay type switch that does not dim.

Yes I know. There is no dual band SwitchLinc yet with a relay output.

 

Full Users Manuals if you have not found them yet:

 

http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2477D_Manual

 

http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf

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