sanders2222 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I have a thermostat in my Masterbath that heats my tile floor. It directly connects to 115V line that feeds the floor. While it has 7 day program features, I'd like to override the control at times remotely (e.g. when away the heat is off). Venstar does not make a 115V tstat with an Insteon adapter and I'm not sure anyone makes one. Does anyone have a solution to controlling floor tile heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskrypuch Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 You could feed the floor supply through an inline or appliance module (or other ON/OFF switch), and control it from there with the ISY. Double check the current draw. * Orest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanders2222 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thanks for your suggestion oskrypuch. Have you done this with one of these thermostats? http://www.ezfloorheat.com/images/2008NewFTSThermTempInstall.pdf I assume your speaking of adding a:http://www.smarthome.com/2475S2/INSTEON-In-LineLinc-On-Off-Module-Non-dimming-w-Sense/p.aspx between the thermostat and the floor elements. Since my thermostat sits in a single electrical box, I would have to come up with connecting another box somewhere with this in-line switch inside. If I understand you correctly, one way this could work is if the tstat is always set to a warming temp. The in-line switch would turn the elements on an off. I'm not quite sure how the t-stat would shut things down when the floor was at the set temperature if the in-line switch is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeG Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 An InlineLinc must have unswitched 120V power which means it is powered from a circuit independent of the tstat feed to the floor heater. The Relay contacts on the InlineLinc are independent of the line supplying power to run the InlineLinc. The Relay contacts would be in series with the tstat circuit controlling the floor heater. Only when the InlineLinc is On and the tstat is calling for heat would the floor heater receive power. When either the tstat or the InlineLinc are Off the heaters are Off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanders2222 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thanks for your feedback all. I have it now. My biggest challenge now is where to locate the electrical box for the in-line switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeG Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 In the same box behind the tstat would be ideal, if there is room. There must be unswitched 120v power to the tstat which can be used to power the InlineLinc and it would put the InlineLinc Relay wires where they can be added in series to the tstat output that is now going to the floor heater. If not behind then a new box added along side tstat that would allow wiring unswitched 120V and tstat output wires to the new box. Put a blank cover over the new box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daxiang28 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 An InlineLinc must have unswitched 120V power which means it is powered from a circuit independent of the tstat feed to the floor heater. The Relay contacts on the InlineLinc are independent of the line supplying power to run the InlineLinc. The Relay contacts would be in series with the tstat circuit controlling the floor heater. Only when the InlineLinc is On and the tstat is calling for heat would the floor heater receive power. When either the tstat or the InlineLinc are Off the heaters are Off.. Sorry to drum up an old post, but it sounds like you put the inline linc after the powered thermostat (since it requires power to run its schedule). Or are we talking just the loads that need to be in series? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kck Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I actually did this recently in a different way. I didn't want to have an electronic thermostat being powered on/off by putting an in-line linc in series ahead of the thermostat and putting it after the thermostat would have the linc being powered on/off which seemed like it wouldn't work. So I got an old school non-digital thermostat for it (I was using Suntouch product and HomeDepot had the cheap old style stat.) So I just put the inline linc in series ahead of the thermostat. I use the ISY for timing etc, for when the heat should be on and actually do it in a more sophisticated way than just timing anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I actually did this recently in a different way. I didn't want to have an electronic thermostat being powered on/off by putting an in-line linc in series ahead of the thermostat and putting it after the thermostat would have the linc being powered on/off which seemed like it wouldn't work. So I got an old school non-digital thermostat for it (I was using Suntouch product and HomeDepot had the cheap old style stat.) So I just put the inline linc in series ahead of the thermostat. I use the ISY for timing etc, for when the heat should be on and actually do it in a more sophisticated way than just timing anyway. That sounds like a good way to have a high-temperature safety limit in case of an Insteon system failure or the contacts in the inline unit became welded together. What would happen to these electrical floor heating systems if they were stuck on forever? Is there any other high-temp limits in the heater elements, themselves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daxiang28 Posted December 26, 2013 Share Posted December 26, 2013 Would this module work better with the sense trigger being connected to the load of the thermostat? http://www.smarthome.com/2443-222/INSTE ... ule/p.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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