Powerline Bridge & Hdmi Switcher

[snownh2o2]

I have two separate and unrelated issues:

 

1) Has HDMI switching become reliable enough? I was considering adding a Russound Component Video Matrix which uses componenet video, however it would then require either listening to the tvs via the ceiling mounted audio system or running another set of audio cables to each tv. HDMI could be as simple as pulling 2 cat5 cables to each tv using hdmi extenders. And then a few short hdmi cables in the basement located AV rack to hook up the 2 dvrs, bluray, and a game system.

 

I am now considering the xantech 4x4 hdmi switcher which is available online for under $400. it has IR and rs232 ports which may allow for some different control options (isy? and iRule?)

 

Does anybody have and knowledge of this device or experience with video switching? Suggested products or options?

 

 

2) We have a personal workshop on the property. Electric is feed to it from the main panel in the house. It is approximately 150yds line of site from the house with landscaping (tree and bushes) partially obstructing the view. The electrical is run underground and may be 200yds from house main panel to shop sub panel. We have internet in the house.

 

Up until now we haven't needed internet in connection in the shop due to getting it on the phone, however it would have been nice to have a dedicated shop computer for research. Anyway, we have had someone snooping around and are now interesting in adding an IP cam.

 

I have been looking for a good way of accessing our network via the shop. I am assuming adding either a powerline or wireless bridge will be necessary. Most of my research has been about powerline.

 

Does anyone know how far powerline will go on a straight wire. Most information I find speakers about in home network where there are may devices connected. I would be injecting on at the main panel and pulling the signal back out at the sub panel. Nothing would be in between except for 200yds of copper.

 

Any suggestions? Would the be a better alternative in wireless? How good does my line of sight have to be?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt

[bpwwer]

 

I am now considering the xantech 4x4 hdmi switcher which is available online for under $400. it has IR and rs232 ports which may allow for some different control options (isy? and iRule?)

 

Does anybody have and knowledge of this device or experience with video switching? Suggested products or options?

 

Matt

 

I just purchased one of these http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch% ... audio.html It is suppose to arrive today so I don't have any hands on experience with it. I do know a couple of people with Octava products and they are happy with them.

 

Pre-sales support by Octava was fantastic.

[MstrD]

Matt,

 

It sounds like you are going through the same process that I am. Do you already have a Russound system in place? I'm doing a house remodel, and installing a Russound CAV6.6 (2 of them actually). I'm already testing with isy-99i (mainly shutting off the kids speakers at a certain hour, etc.)

 

My plan is to have the AV closet in the basement. I will have 3 cable boxes. Possibly a DVD, etc. I have a basement projection TV, and will be adding 1-2 more TVs in the bar area. Another TV in the family room, one in the Master bedroom, and one in the kitchen. I'd like to be able to switch sources, depending on the need. Most likely we won't have more than 3 channels on at any one time in the house, but I'd like to be able to have one game on the projection TV, and the other 2 TVs have something else on.

 

I've been trying to figure out an HDMI switcher as well to integrate. I've been using Russounds Power Tools to configure the units. I've setup sources 1-3 as cable boxes. Source 4 is a jukebox, Source 5 is an ipod, and Source 6 is an Internet Radio (actually a Grace Digital box). It can tune in all my local radio stations (over the internet), as well as Pandora, etc.

 

Ideally I wanted to be able to switch from source 1-3, and somehow have the Russound system switch the HDMI for that particular zone. I believe the Russound Video Matrix will do that, but it's component only. It isn't cheap, and then you still have to add all the extenders.

 

If you haven't seen it yet, there is a product called Myro:Bridge It connects to Russound via RNET. It automatically switches the HDMI based on the zone/source. It's $350.

 

What I've been doing is trying to setup an external box (linksys NSLU2 - really cheap), which acts as a tiny linux server. I'm using the same box to communicate to the isy-99i from some temperature sensors. It (hopefully), is going to monitor the Russound, and any changes to the source by zone, will notify the isy-99i. It in turn will send the IR or RS232 command to the HDMI switcher. I actually got the monitoring part to work last night. And, it can communicate to the Isy-99i. I'm nearly there. I'm going to try and post a thread this weekend on the NSLU in general, then the 1-wire USB temp sensors, and also the Russound integration.

[snownh2o2]

MstrD,

 

I currently have a Cav6.6 w/ a Sms3 and iBridges. However I have been trying to swap it out for a C5 and a DMS which should both connect via LAN (?ROI - Russound I/O?) rather than RS232. The upgrade will occur as soon a ebay/amazon coperate. I would have expected it by now since I have be checking everyday since Christmas. Trying to keep the whole package under 3K new which should be doable with patience. I am really excited about the Russound App.

 

My sources ( will be 2 DTV HDDVRs (mine/gf) , 400 disc BluRay, DMS AM/FM, DMS SiriusXM, DMS Network Media Stream, Wii or Xbox (gf's choice), and paging. The house isn't big, so in general we can share everything because it will be heard everywhere anyway. TV is the only thing we will keep seperate. DTV1 will be hers and DTV2 will be mine. This is true for both the audio (Russound) and video (TV) network and will prevent accidental switch of the other persons channel.

 

I have read about myro, however I was on the fence about it, and wasn't sure if the support for it would continue. That is also the reason for wanting HDMI over component. Though I do know going digital creates its own nightmares. Please keep me updated on your progress with the myro.

 

I also read about the NSLU. It sounds very interesting! And at one point I went out shopping ebay for one to play with. I must have gotten distracted though because I never purchased one. As of now I am not sure what to do with my HVAC system. All I know is the 1 zone with cast radiators in a 120 year old farm house is not cutting it, and this summer there will be a major change. Luckily each room has its own radiator and the are all run to the basement in a 2 pipe system. Some nealty run pex, 8 tasco zone valves, and a controller may be a rather easy install. I will have to re-evaluate in the spring when the boiler is no longer needed. Plus I hoping SmartHome or UD will have something new by that point. I am interested and will be following you posts on this.

 

Thanks,

Matt

[gatchel]

I have two separate and unrelated issues:

Does anyone know how far powerline will go on a straight wire. Most information I find speakers about in home network where there are may devices connected. I would be injecting on at the main panel and pulling the signal back out at the sub panel. Nothing would be in between except for 200yds of copper.

 

Any suggestions? Would the be a better alternative in wireless? How good does my line of sight have to be?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt

 

Well. I have a garage with about 80 feet of 2-2-2-4 aluminum cable feeding the sub panel.

I have Insteon switches in the garage for exterior lighting and so far it has been 100% reliable.

 

Computer networking... I did have a netgear 200 mbps powerline device(s) at one point and it worked well. Expect much less than the 200mbps, I typically had between 25 and 40 meg of throughput, plenty for 1 IP camera and internet browsing. Your distance is much more so YMMV. I would guess that you would still get 10 meg or more at that distance but this is totally a guess.

 

I have also used (2) Ubiquiti Networks NanoStation Loco M5 units at my buddy's garage. He is about 100 yards line of site and they work very well. They typically connect at 180 ish mbps throughput. They are rated for much greater distances.

[MstrD]

Matt,

 

Have you tried the App called Llama Panel Pro? If your CAV is connected to your network (via a ethernet-serial adapter - like a Global Cache GC-100), you can already control it from an iphone app. Additionally, it's then controllable from the isy-99i. It doesn't seem quite as fancy as the My Russound app, but it does work nicely. You can control all zones, sources, volume, etc.

 

David

[snownh2o2]

David,

 

Its over a month later, I still have not yet found my c5 for the right price, so I tried out Llama Panel last night before bed. It works well. Thanks for the suggestion. I remember seeing it in the past, but I had completely forgotten about it.

 

Also I looked at Myro:Bridge again but have not gone that route. I use a Xantech 4x4 hdmi matrix and I am not still not sure that Myro:Bridge's RNET capability is exactly what I need at a price tag of $350. For now I am going to have the ISY control the audio and the video sources via a few small programs and some KPLs. And I'll use Llama panel when outside the house.

 

Thanks,

Matt

[apostolakisl]

I bought an IR controlled HDMI switch on ebay for $14.29 including shipping. It works perfectly for sattelite and a PC media center. It does not have the any IP features but I already have a itach unit which controls it.

 

I have also bought some $40 hdmi splitters on ebay. They also work perfectly. In fact, I have the signals split comming out of the dvd/computer/sattelite and then go to switches so I can totally switch things around between three sources and four displays.