larryllix

On my ecobee thermostats (I have owned three now) there are internal records of thermostat sensors every 15 minutes. These spreadsheets records can be downloaded from the thermostat and show the actual sensor reading in 0.1c degrees, whereas the display and the api sending values are only 0.5c degree resolution. The thermostat face displays the compensated / anticipator resultant temperature the thermostat is regulating the HVAC equipment to. ecobee stats offer a settable on/off differential of down to 0.3c degrees. ecobee stats also insulate the sensor for the electonics heat extremely well with distance, air diversion channels, insulation, and heat reflectors I have had several Honeywell programmable stats and they do the same thing, displaying the compensated temperature and not the sensor actual temperature. The evidence there was to turn the stat to lower heat setpoint and watch the displayed reading drop by 2-3c degrees. Once you consider the 0.5c "looseness" before the stat contacts will close the temperature swings may exceed 4c degrees or about 7-8F degrees in real applications. I have owned a few other top tech stats (in their era) and they did the same thing with readings that didn't reflect the actual sensor temperatures. Venstar T78/900? was another that did the same thing. Nest stats have the same problem. I find homes with Nest stats have waves of heat and periods of cold at times that I cannot tolerate comfortably. The 2441TH Insteon stats do not have this anticipation / prediction so the lowest on/off differential you can get is about 3c degrees plus the time delay for the warm air to enter the casing and change the sensor reading. The resultant temperature swings are way too large for many (myself included) to tolerate. However, IRC, the readings you get via protocol, are the readings you also see on the stat front.

After using many different brands of thermostats over the years I have found they alldisplay a different temperature than the actual. What I have found was that instead of using a different register (memory location) for the calculated /compensated temperature they use the register that is being displayed on the screen. For a thermostat to have some predictive capability and not undershoot and overshoot, in the mechanical day they would have a small heating element in series with the furnace solenoid, to predict and compensate the time delay in sensing the air temperature that SHOULD be the result of the furnace run. If the thermostat waited until the bimetal element was actually warmed up to the air temperature the furnace would run way too long and overshoot the setting by several degrees. The small heating element tried to "predict" what was coming, in order to prevent the wave of heat that would result without it. In modern / electronic thermostat days, they attempt to accomplish this "predictive" task arithmetically, by adding a few degrees to the actual sensed temperature and you see it on the face of the thermostat. You may find this difference goes away when it is not calling for heat or cool. You may also find this difference may lessen if you adjust the on/off differential to allow a larger temperature swing setting. BTW: Thermostats with WiFi or other signal transmitters produce a lot of heat and they manufacturers attempt to compensate this by fudging the calibration of the sensing. This makes a wildly regulating thermostat that becomes very dependent on room air currents. Many are not designed well enough to be good thermostat temperature regulators.

It takes a password/keyword but when you enter a second keyword it removes the first one. Govee app writers have come up a lot of amazing stuff now. I bought a programmable fan. Amazing features.

Every time I use UD Mobile I see more additions to it. It has become a powerhouse of features and if variable additions are not there, my guess is they soon will be. @junkycosmosSuggest pinging the author/code writer with your concern

Yes. The image writers is called Rufus and an image.img file is involved. UDI support supplied links (image was time limited for security) and you download the two. -After removing the SSD from the polisy, you insert the SSD into the adapter, and screw it down (micro screwdriver supplied with adapter) to hold the contacts tight. -Insert the USB combination into a USB slot, -run Rufus, which automatically finds the drive and tells you about partitions etc. -SELECT the polisy???.img file, and click START. -You will then see a lot of warnings about destroying old data and partitions, you will ignore. -Now you should see a sliding progress indicator, about 20 seconds -Now you should see the CLOSE box appear. -I used Windows eject USB feature -Reinstall the SSD drive. Don't forget the overlayed small PCB onto the dual header pins. -Close up polisy case -Power up polisy -Reset credentials and font size, and location time zone etc. -Reboot, and load in saved IoX image file. -in PG3 need to re-install every NS using the "want to reuse the same slot" menu option. Despite looking like it will recharge our wallet, there is a method to bypass. Then after a few moments when reported installed, every NS required a restart to comm with polisy, then install any keys or passwords. IoX data resumed updating for every NS. Ecobee found the old one, after deleting and installing new key provided by ecobee NS install. Watch for it in PG3x. Govee had to request a new "api_key" from the mobile app to see the set of lights it handles. Install in PG3 Govee config api_key = xxyxyxyxyxy Twinky did it's own thing. but no devices attached right now. -Alexa looked after itself completely. -SSH need to be setup, maybe but password in polisy needs to be changed from the default admin/admin to desired. -my NRbridge software had to be re-installed in Polisy, used Fileziila but directories had to be created first using SSH. The crontab was hard to figure out because I am not real good with freeBSD yet. -default freeBSD editor needs to be changed to nano, if desired. Research online. Can't remember the"export ?????" syntax. Need a permanent assignment yet. @Geddy @Guy Lavoie Addendum: At UDI support's recommendation I purchased a new SSD for my spare polisy, wrote the image to the SSD and rebuilt it from ground up. Since I was now freshly familiar with some of the freeBSD details I uppated the spare with my NRbridge software, and ran some tests on groups of WiFi bulbs. However, I found Rufus would not locate my 64GB SSD and I had to download ImageWriter to accomplish the image write. It seems Rufus is only capable of the 32GB imaging. @Michel KohanimSpecial thanks to Michel at UDI for his superior sleuthing knowledge and support in this matter. (no pun intended LOL)

Support has already started from Michel. I already have this mSATA to USB adapter from rebuilding my polisys from some incompatible original polisy image. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-ELUTENG-Converter-Portable-External/dp/B07VP2WH73/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2ZEVFJRTHNDN7&keywords=msata%2Bto%2Busb%2Badapter&pldnSite=1&qid=1658831709&sprefix=msata%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-5&th=1 I don't know why this link jumps me back to the forum. I have reinserted it four times with the same results now.

Yeah no access to modify or fix anything. I do remember (now) Michel's ask to not do resets. I do have an SSD imager that Michel recommend in the past to recover from the stone age so I still have hope. Not sure where this is going to go but I think I better start working on my spare polisy now and get it up to speed.

Bricked polISY Another one bites the dust. Just upgraded my polISY v5.8.? to v5.9.1 via the mobile app. It was against my better judgement and I have avoided it up until last night because I have no matter devices connected yet. I had some trouble with a few WiFi bulbs and attempted to reboot my polisy via the mobile app. I discovered the update and thought the bugs would be worked out by now. It never came back up after waiting all night. I rebooted the router, net switch and power cycled the polisy a few times with no response. Swapped over to a spare power supply. Tried a new network cord and port on the switch. Tried various resets from 1 to 5, also held it for 15 seconds once but no luck. The green power LED is on and the Ethernet port shows flashing green and solid yellow leds on the port so it seems to be talking. However the router does not show any device connected to that IP address. Where do I go from here? Any ideas how to revive this bricked polisy?

We had an Interbet failure for several hour in Ontario a few years ago. Only one large provider was affected on their backbone. People were surprised when their phones stopped working, they had no TV, they had no Internet browsing and a few other services all dead. Basically there was no entertainment in any form. It was a big wakeup call. My side of the Internet backbone was only affected by data slowdown somewhat but it makes one think. Can I add my home automation to the list of dead items? How about Alexa information ,HA control, and weather info? There was a lot of talk about law suits and legal actions but I doubt they went anywhere because nobody guarantees service.

I think your head is in the clouds. Would I have to text you to turn on my lights then?

I'll split it with you! But who is going to be "the cloud" and who is going to be local? 🤪

Results are always assigned to the variable register they originate from. Try not to use STATE variables for complex calculations as they may trigger your dependent programs repeatedly with premature results. For multiple operation calculations, it may be best to use an Integer variable and then transfer the resultant into the STATE variable. Use of a lower precision variable, during calculations, will result in truncated decimal places for the final variable precision regardless of the final variable set precision.

It only takes a few lines of code to create a variable timer that self starts and self runs. This one has been tested for years. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/45088-wait-variable-minutes/#findComment-394015

@Jimbo.Automates I don't know why this has reared it's ugly head now but my two ecobee remote sensors are reporting as F instead of C, as per settings and all other temperature readings. The values are correct but the nomenclature in the admin console show as 23F instead of 23C. IIRC, this has been scaled incorrectly for years but as just a scale typo I thought it would correct itself with an update sooner or later. However, it never has apparently. Now, trying to use a value in a calculation I find the value used for arithmetic is being converted to C, so that being shown as 23F calculates to -5C in the variable calculations. I have tried reinstalling NS into PG3 and restarting but no luck. How do I jerk this back to proper unit scales dictated by Admin Console settings?

Having a few spare FilterLincs can really help. My big problem was Chamberlain garage door openers. My first GDO gave me slight comm problems for about ten years. Once I got a second GDO with battery backup, my Insteon went to about 20% success. Unplugging both of them resolved the problem so I bought two FilterLincs and my system worked much better. The long delay was I though it was my whole home Outback Inverter system doing it and due to being minor, I just ignored it.