jec6613

Sure, I use them all of the time behind a GFCI and AFCI equipment. The return path for current is via the neutral, unless there's leakage to ground, you're fine. That said, I have seen a few GFCI/AFCI combo devices, the stand-alone sort, give me trouble. Never a GFCI alone, or a circuit breaker integrated GFCI/AFCI.

While any hardwired devices work for sensors, if you want door locks eventually, you'll need devices which support Beaming, and very few receptacles and switches support Beaming, and it's a long dig through the spec sheet to find out. I use the Dome extenders, and have ordered some Aeotec 700 series. The Dome are cheap, support Beaming, and are 500 series ZW Plus with S2 support. As an added bonus, you can control their built in light for a night light. The Aeotec 700 series are one of the only 700 series devices at the moment, and all 700 series repeaters support Beaming and S2 (it's optional on ZW Plus/ZW 500 series) - so I'm adding them to future proof and provide some additional paths. That said, they're about twice the cost. Both can also be powered via USB, which is quite handy.

Z-wave is a simple add-on board, though you'll likely need some range extenders. Though the MSI was marketed as indoor/outdoor, the weather resistance and temperature range is similar to the current MSII. The OEM for both considers them indoor only. One other large change is detection range and fresnel lens angle, which on the MSI was more suitable for outdoor use, while the MSII is somewhat shorter in most setups. I do have one where they're similar since I'm looking at a 90 degree slice, and use a second MSII for the other 90 degree slice since they're on opposite sides of a beam sticking out of the house.

I have a bunch of MSII outdoors, and an MSI outdoors as well. I protect them from direct rain with overhangs mostly, but even the one just under a gutter works fine after a couple of years out there. Northern US weather, even in below zero they work fine. They are modestly sealed for use in bathrooms, where I also have three battery powered ones. The biggest piece of advice besides keeping them under overhangs is to, if possible, USB power them. The CR123A are much better than the 9V in the MSI in extremes of temperature, but USB powering them means I never have to worry about any of that. Also, I installed them realizing that I might lose one or two eventually, so I just figured that into the cost and bought a spare I keep around. If I were doing it today though, HomeSeer has a floodlight integrated motion sensor that is properly weatherproof, and Zooz has an outdoor motion sensor that is rated for the colder and higher temperatures and has modestly better weather sealing (still keep it under an overhang though). Since I have the ZW module and extenders for my door locks, it would be better for me to use those, but at the time they weren't available.

In the spec, yes, you can split the load and switch, but, de facto, no, unless you're willing to do some work in a serial console with a PLM.

Generally, just add Z-Wave devices too a scene as you would Insteon. The ISY on 5.x firmware handles the translation between the two, and uses all available Z-Wave features on the devices (e.g. device groups) to do so. I'd also suggest going to 5.0.16C though, because they have been squashing bugs lately.

I just turn off writes to battery powered devices, it doesn't seem to care that I'm not writing to the MSII most of the time. For USB powered ones, after I make the changes I execute the pending writes via a program.

I've had three solutions to this, depending on my response time: 1) Set the MSII to on only, with a short timeout, and add it to a scene with the light. Then use a program to come along and turn off the lights after, say, 5 minutes. With a 30 second MSII timeout and a 5 minute program timeout, the MSII will re-fire if any movement is seen after 30 seconds, and re-start the countdown timer. Response to light on is instant, so I use it for bathrooms and similar. 2) Set the MSII to not be in a scene, firing off and on. This then is handled by the ISY to turn on the lights, and the MSII stays active so long as it senses motion. I use this for longer term occupancy sensing and when the instant response doesn't matter, such as when the lights are on dimly anyway and just brighten. 3) Have the MSII in a scene, firing on and off. Its own internal timer resets if there's any motion, though I've found this less reliable, it works for a few outdoor lights.

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Yeah, I'm not saying that IE11 is good, just that it's good that we have it. If you get fancy, you can have certain sites launch in IE using admx templates as well for those known old ones. Fewer and fewer utilities need IE anymore, but I still have a half a dozen or so and I'm glad I have IE for that.

Option 1) Use ISY launcher. Option 2) Use Internet Explorer. You may laugh, but do you know how many pieces of really expensive (and even pretty new) tech rely on Java or an IE specific extension for administration in the IT world? Keep it to sites on the intranet and off the internet and it's perfectly fine and works well. And it's Windows 7, so you actually have IE on it, unlike the home editions of Windows 10 which lack it.

I push the LED brightness button on all of my 2334's, and this comes up. I have nine of them and they all work the same way. Though I don't actually control it with that, that would be a bit silly, I have programs that adjust the backlights by time of day.

You can also just rig up more normal beams. Most openers have multiple safety inputs for precisely that reason, and if not, you can get an expansion bus pretty easily. Or, if your GDO handles NC, just run them in series.

Mine came with the house. When we had the door and track replaced by UPS (who damaged it) is when I got all of the in-built sensors calibrated and dialed in. Also since we now have a lightweight door and previously had solid wood, we have a massively overpowered GDO, which really helps with the auto reverse sensor. I believe it's a seco-larm curtain sensor, similar to this: http://www.seco-larm.com/sensors/curtain-sensors/E-9622-4B25

Mine is around 5 frames of delay at 15 FPS, so 1/3 of a second, on my LAN. From Joburg it was about 2-3 seconds transiting the undersea cables. But if a child enters under the door path, it stops and retracts due to the curtain sensors anyway, and they'd also have to come from somewhere, which is all camera covered. If a child can run 150m from out of sight to the door in less than 12 seconds when the world record is 9.58 to 100m, then I'm calling Guinness.

Well, for one thing, I have multiple beam sensors crossing the path of the door from a few inches up to 3' off the ground, any one of which will cause an instant reverse. Also, at least on my opener, the sensitivity on the back pressure sensor is as high as it can go - I can stop it with one finger, and have tested this. And living in the sticks on some property takes care of most of the rest, and the cameras the rest, since I have much better visibility from in my house with the cameras than I do inside of the garage using the hardwire button. I could meet the buzzer recommendations as well (not code required around here), and at some point will put that in, but since I can see the interior and exterior of the garage it hasn't been a high priority. See also: the dual Labrador alarm system that would definitely alert me if someone was on the property.

I don't have children, I have labrador retreivers, and multiple sensors on the opener that will bounce the door back, plus a camera. Since there's no way we can see the garage door from inside the house, and no way without walking outside (even though it's a short distance) to close said door otherwise, I use an IOLinc and some keypad buttons. That said, when the existing IOLinc goes, I'll be upgrading to something with even more logic and sensors. As far as running, it sounds like it would run just fine, but it's a bit kludgy. I have my goodnight program set a variable, then use that variable to trigger other programs. Ditto home, away, etc. By doing this, it also lets me change out how the house responds in the middle of the night vs after sundown, including ramp rates and on levels for lights.

"Sincere apologies. This is an aberrant email from our staging server and not the production. Your account is alive and well and you can access it using your email address."

First hard reset the keypad, then restore its settings from the ISY's admin console. If it's still broken, then replace it - a reset and restore only takes a few minutes.

I'm not sure about the portal interface, but when using the Polyglot/Hue Emulator combination to expose them, the spoken name is tagged in the Spoken note of the ISY itself, which gets backed using ordinary methods.

I did this with Polyglot and harmony. Motion normally works, but once the theater is in theater mode, motion sensing is disabled.

It should work just fine on a switched network. Routed over the internet and tunneling through IPSec, on the other hand, may not be an acceptable situation.

Side note: I've done fiber before, run either 6 or 12 strands of singlemode (it'll come as a single cable) and terminate properly to a fiber patch panel, then run to whatever you want. Don't even try and bother with individual pairs, and singlemode can run 100 Gbit later if you ever have the need. Run it properly once and you'll never regret it. Singlemode SFPs aren't much more expensive than multimode, but re-pulling that cable in 10 years is. If you want some multimode to run things other than Ethernet, might as well run 6 or 12 of that as well, and be sure it's OM4. RS232 over fiber, audio over fiber, and so on frequently will only work with multimode due to cost considerations. But the way things are going, you'll probably be better off with just singlemode and dump everything down an Ethernet pipe. And if you want to try linking the two PLMs via RS232, you can get RS232 over Ethernet adapters and just send it over TCP/IP with everything else. Even a reasonably cheap Netgear switch will be more than enough to handle all of that going over it, their cheap evergreen GS716/724T switches will handle AV over Ethernet no problem, and if you need more bandwidth the M4300 series is designed for AV over Ethernet from the ground up with 10/40Gb support. The tiny control signals will be no problem for any of them to handle.

Assuming the second building is smaller than the first by a substantial amount, I'd just use network resources to pass commands so that every single device is effectively controlled from one ISY.

But if Insteon went away tomorrow, I'd also use Lutron for lighting. Z-Wave to replace the Insteon sensors … and neither of them immediately, I'm 95% built out so there's no rush to move to another platform until things stop working. And I have a spare PLM, and a spare USB PLM for when the Polisy eventually takes it all over. The fit and finish on Lutron are even better than Insteon, and Z-Wave aren't there yet. It'd have to be RA2Select though, since Caseta can't handle as many devices as I have. And hopefully if this ever happens, there will be a Lutron NodeServer.