apostolakisl

What you have here is the WAF . . . "wife acceptance factor". The answer to your question can only be answered by you and your wife. Certainly it is possible to predict her needs and provide her with reasonable methods of attaining them in your absence. Essentially it comes down to having a very intuitive GUI. And to a large extent I would say that the perfect GUI has not yet been invented. But consider this. Virtually everything in the Insteon world is manually controllable by someone who has no knowledge of the system at all. Basically, light switches still are light switches. Higher level functions may simply escape the capabilities of some family members. But higher level functions should be optional stuff that goes above and beyond what anyone would need to live a normal life. In my life, I have found that the only issues occur when I first implement something new and I have yet to work out the bugs. In other words, the occasional unanticipated outcome.

No, you can have it send the status of as many zones as will fit in a text message. Just keep adding that command over and over. Use the body section and put a return after each one. Until you reach the limit of characters for a text you can keep adding. Frt Dr ${elk.zone.1.status} Bck Dr ${elk.zone.2.status} Fam Dr ${elk.zone.3.status} However, it won't necessarily tell you what zone caused an alarm unless the zone is violated at the time of the alarm. In other words, your doors that have time delays could very well be secure again prior to the alarm condition. You would need to have it send you a text every time any one of your delay zones was violated while armed (not just while in alarm). This may make for a bunch of nuisance texts . . .or maybe not . . . depends on what you consider nuisance. EDIT: Not to UDI code guys (Michel). . . perhaps it might be nice to abbreviate "normal" and "violated" to save on characters? Just a thought.

You go to configuration:email/notifications:customizations Click "Add new" at the bottom. In the subject line box use the drop down menu to select "security" and "alert zone status" then manually replacing the # with the zone number.

Actually both are equally reliable with subtle differences. Using the else clause restarts the timer when the door closes. Mostly an academic issue since exterior doors are usually not left open for long. But if you are carting a few things through the door it gives you the full 2 minutes of light once you are done and close the door. Using the else clause restarts the timer at sunrise if you happened to open/close the door within 2 minutes of sunrise. This will rarely come into play and shouldn't make any difference to anyone anyway. Using one program is a touch less confusing and saves space. But again not much difference.

Put the wait 2 minutes shut off light stuff in your else clause as well as your then clause.

i have not spent the $99 for the module. I haven't really seen a reason to do so. is there something i am missing? You won't be able to do those programs I wrote without the Elk module. And I think you will find the Elk module to be well worth the money. ISY programs can do more with Elk than Elk rules can do with Elk. Plus it is just easier to write program in ISY. Plus you may start getting competing programs if Elk is controlling lighting and ISY is controlling the same lighting but with different triggers and conditions.

First off, I would move the control of the garage light to ISY (get rid of all the Elk rules), (this assumes you have the Elk module for ISY). Write a program to turn the light on whenever either of the garage doors is opened. Program "garage timer" If Elk zone garage overhead is violated or Elk zone garage regular door is violated or Motion detector is triggered Then Set garage switch on wait 14 minutes Repeat 30 times wait 2 seconds set garage switch beep duration 14 repeat 1 time Set garage switch off The above program will reset to 15 minutes of "on" every time any of the 3 conditions occurs. Another trick is to use the beep function on the newer switches and have them start beeping a minute before they are about to turn off to warn you if you are in there and want it to stay on. The next program will deactivate the program if the lights are manually turned on and then resume the program when the light is manually turned off. If control garage switch is switched on Then disable program "garage timer" If constrol garage switch is switched off Then enable program "garage timer"

This may be more trouble than it is worth, however you could write programs that turn variables to 1 or 0 to correspond to off/not off of the lights in question. Then run io_guys program on a pc that is used to sync the cai webcontrol board with ISY. But don't worry about the webcontrol board. The program has a logging function. IO_guys program log can then be downloaded into excel or some other program where the data can be analyzed. You can run graphs of each variable on the y axis and time on the x axis. This will be quite obvious when the light is off/not off based on the line being at 1 while not off and 0 when off. It wouldn't be that much work if you were only doing 10 or 15 lights. I have created graphs tracking 3 variables on ISY and it is pretty easy and only takes 5 or 10 minutes to get it all in a nice pretty graph if you are familiar with excel. You can set io_guys program to record the value of the variable at intervals of as little as 1 second or much higher (not sure the max but it is at least in the many minutes range if not hours or days). I would suggest logging every minute.

Generally speaking, ISY is the place to put your programs. It is much easier to organize them and edit them. ISY is more versatile and actually lets you do more with Elk's own stuff than Elk can do it. Like include zone status in an email or text. ISY also has way more programming space. Of course this is only possible with the Elk module. Which I highly suggest. The only caveat is that if your router goes down, your Elk and ISY connection will go down. So I would avoid putting any program that is mission critical in ISY. Like arming and disarming functions. Also if you are controlling outputs that do things that could go horribly wrong.

That's interesting to hear. I had wondered about that and even asked it before but it never was responded to. Is that number published by SH?

I do the same thing and it works very well. I do a bench test on all my new devices and program them prior to installing them. In the event of a defective unit, it saves the hassle of installing/uninstalling/reinstalling (which can be quite the PITA in a multi-switch gang box). Just remember to cap the red wire as it becomes hot when the switch is turned on. And of course don't plug it in until after all the wires are connected and capped.

I kind of assumed the switch was dead based on your original post, but now that I re-read I understand that the double tap worked. The simplest thing to try first is just pull the hard disconnect on the switch for 5 or 10 seconds and then push it back in. If that doesn't work, try factory resetting the switch and restoring it with the ISY.

It is possible that the hot for that switch is daisy chained through one of the boxes you were working in and you may have inadvertently disconnected it. I would suggest pulling the non-working switch and checking the hot to see if it has power.

If From 5:00:00AM To 11:50:00AM (same day) Or From 7:05:00PM To 10:00:00PM (same day) Then Run Program 'Hot Water Loop' (Then Path) Else Set 'Garage / Garage Hot Water' Off Stop Program 'Hot Water Loop' Also, I am not sure what you meant with this? Then Repeat Every 1 minute Set 'Garage / Garage Hot Water' Fast On Wait 8 minutes Set 'Garage / Garage Hot Water' Fast Off Wait 2 minutes By putting a wait 2 minutes at the end, then having it repeat every 1 minute, it will be on for 8 minutes, shut off, wait 2 minutes, then wait 1 minute for the repeat, then turn back on for 8 minutes. It would be cleaner to do the following Then Repeat Every 3 minute Set 'Garage / Garage Hot Water' Fast On Wait 8 minutes Set 'Garage / Garage Hot Water' Fast Off

Did you get the rolling code model? If not, and your vehicle buttons are currently programmed with rolling codes, then it won't work. You would have to erase your vehicle memory and reteach using a non-rolling code hand held remote and then use your vehicle or that same remote to teach the liftmaster device you just bought. I received my two devices several days ago but have just been too busy to hook them up. I got the rolling code model.

OK, now I get what you are asking. ISY started supporting that function a while ago and that issue was discussed back then. There was never a good answer as far as I can recall about setting the brightness of the led's on the switch. It would make sense that 255 is as bright as it gets and 128 is half as bright and so on. But it doesn't follow that logic and I don't know why and I really don't know what the actual logic is. The handful of switches I have altered the led's on I just did random trial and error until it looked the way I wanted. And you do have to realize that Insteon switches that are a bit older don't support that function at all.

Do they all have the same exact bulbs? LED's and compact fluorescents differ by manufacturer/bulb model as to the progression of lumen output as the input voltage goes up. Two bulbs may look the same at 100% but very different at 50%. I would assume that 2 Insteon switchlincs at the same % brightness would both put through the same voltage, but Lee has indicated that different firmwares aren't the same. I don't really know anything about that. It seems to me that it would be pretty dumb for the Insteon folks to have done that. But I wouldn't put it past them. OHH, I just read your post again. Relays are either on or off. There is no 50%. If you send a 50% on to a relay it just turns on. It is after all a RELAY, not a dimmer.

0 - 255 is 256 possible values which is 2 to the 8th power which in computer binary talk is 8 bit which means ISY developers chose to reserve 8 bits worth of memory to store the value. 0-255 represents 0-100% brightness. You can do the math to figure out the percentage. Be advised that just because the Insteon switch is turned half way up doesn't mean the lumens are 50% of full brightness. This mostly works with incandescent bulbs but fluorescent and led operate a bit differently.

The only way I know is to not have the bulb connected to the load of that switch but rather a different switch or inline linc.

Power a relay off of the light bulb socket in the garage door opener. Connect the relay to an IO linc. The ISY can then monitor the built-in light on the garage door and thus know when it has operated. Or, you could just use the sense portion of this. http://www.smarthome.com/2475S2/INSTEON ... nse/p.aspx You would need to use the garage door openers light power to trip the sense.

Blake, As Lee mentioned. Be very careful using "wait". You need to look at every line of your "if" clause and if any of them could trigger during the "wait" it will reset the program and the "wait" will end. You can do this on purpose, but it tends mostly to happen as an unintended issue that causes your program to behave other than as intended. Using a wait on a program where the only "if" is something like "time is . . ." will not be a problem since the program would not be re-triggered (unless your wait is more than 24 hours). Using "status" or "control" in your "if" clause could be trouble. If the status of the light changes or someone pushes the switches button, the wait will end right then. Again, this can be used on purpose. To use "wait" where you also want other if conditions that might re-trigger, you need to write two programs where the first program calls the second program containing the "wait".

The error log has no errors since August 3. There was a stretch on Aug 3 lasting several hours where there were a ton of errors including lots of ntp errors. Probably my internet was down or something. I opened the console this morning. The clock on the console seems to be the problem. I opened it at 6:51:50. Over the course of the next 6 minutes, the clock only ticked forward by 11 seconds to 6:52:01. Mostly it is just sitting there doing nothing, but every once in a while it ticks forward a tick or two. For example, in the time it took to write the last couple sentences, the clock still says 6:52:02. Otherwise the console is working like normal. EDIT: It is now 7:36 and the console clock says 7:01:48. It is ticking now roughly 1/sec. Since it appears to be the console clock only, it isn't that big of a deal. But during program debugging it is pretty inconvenient to not know what time the system clock thinks it is. EIDT:Now at 7:56, the ISY clock is showing 7:54. So somewhere in there it must have updated to the system clock, but still has fallen behind again. EDIT: The console clock has stopped ticking again. But if I open the "configuration" tab it syncs to the ISY. But it still doesn't tick. If I go to a different tab, then back to the configuration tab, it updates again, but again still doesn't keep ticking. EDIT: I opened the java console on my office computer and logged in. It is displaying the same behavior.

The error log has no errors since August 3. There was a stretch on Aug 3 lasting several hours where there were a ton of errors including lots of ntp errors. Probably my internet was down or something.

I don't recall how long the console was open. Perhaps a day, perhaps a few minutes. I just did a test. I opened the console a couple hours ago and hit the NTP update. The clock was off, but I didn't notice by how much. I closed the console and then just reopened it (about 2 hours later) hit the sync button again. The clock corrected by about 15 seconds. So either ISY clock is running quite a bit off or the NTP server isn't giving good numbers. I'll try again in another hour and see what it does.

I am pretty sure the 315mhz does not use rolling codes. I did buy two of the ones with rolling codes off amazon for a total of $46. So you only save about $10 going with the non-rolling model. Also, don't forget, that you will need to be able to train your car. The only way to do that is to have an RF transmitter that works on the 315mhz system.