apostolakisl

I mean one of the universal remotes that you can buy for a few bucks like this one. http://www.buy.com/prod/xbox-360-univer ... 75285.html It seems like you could purchase a ready made board from somewhere in China for a couple bucks each (bulk order) and integrate it directly into the isy board. Let the ISY send the commands to the IR control board that would otherwise come from a keypad.

So ya can't just yank the board out of one of those $10 universal guys and wire it into your board?

Global cache is just awfully pricey and at first glance seems like it is rather complex. When you think that your are already spending $369 for the ISY, then another $50 for the module, and I think like $250 for the global cache, it just adds up to a lot of money to allow ISY to do what a $10 universal remote can do.

I really you guys (ISY) need to create your own IR transmition solution. The insteon one is just not proving to be worth a darn.

The 2411t that SH is selling doesn't work with the ISY. I understand they still have the older firmware model available that does work, but if you didn't specifically request it, you would have the new firmware. As far as linking the 2411t, it doesn't link the unit per se, it links each infrared code almost as if it were its own device. So, no, you wouldn't linke the 2411t prior to linking IR codes.

Now that is what I call living up north! Does it actually ever get dark enough to see the yard lights with a sunset that late? I like Oberkc solution. The first program starts and ends at the instant of sunset so you don't get the program being active during 2 separate days. The second program triggers on the first program becoming true and has no care in the world about what the date is.

Have you bought any of their other lights? I am interested in the spots for my china cabinet. The incandescent ones cost like $5 a piece and only last about 6 months at most. I am getting very anoyed at having to keep replace them. I was looking at these E27-xW4 White LED bulb. The color I was thinking might be best is natural white for the crystal to shine.

I can tell you where they don't have them. Lowe's. I was just there an hour ago and asked. I have never seen LED's that would work in the confined, poorly ventilated , outdoor exposure type fixture, except for the solar ones which in my mind pretty much stink. I would be very interested to find out if someone else has non-solar outdoor LED fixtures and how it all works (replacement bulbs versus needing entire new fixtures).

I think it will depend mostly on the style plug your current fixtures require. LED's are polarity specific DC, not AC. Since I assume you are running a 12v AC transformer you will need LEDs that correct for that and fit into your fixture sockets.

Agreed, scenes respond much more quickly. Programs can sometimes take a couple of seconds to execute whereas scenes are almost instant. If you have the same set of devices do different things based on some variables (who is home, time of day, or whatever), I like to create a scene for each scenario and then let a program execute the scene rather than have the program execute each individual device.

Your safest bet would be to hook up the lighting system minus the insteon unit and use the kill-a-watt or similar to measure the actual consumption. If it is under 480 watt then you should be good.

The install went fine and at first use, no problems. Does this mean that the next drop will have the Elk control module?!!!

[quote name="kingwr"Thus this condition in an IF statement will always resolve to True since the program only runs when it is true' date=' and a program with only one such condition will always run the THEN branch, never the ELSE branch. [/quote] There is an exception to this. If you write a line in another program "run (if)" or manually do a run (if) from the program summary page it will turn false. (assuming someone isn't pushing the button at the exact same time, which I am not sure is even possible)

Just curious, how many members of this forum do you suppose are female?

Great stuff. Maybe your accuracy would improve if you tried plugging 4 or 5 units into the killawatt all at once. I am pleased to see that we are definitely under 1 watt.

It would seem that at least some of the confusion here goes to what we have been discussing on another thread. And that is under what circumstances do various "if" statements get evaluated. "triggers" as we have been calling them.

Kingwr, The other thing is the true/false status of a program. Outside of that, I am not sure that knowing all of the nuances of a trigger event really matters. Basically, a trigger event has the potential to kill a running then/else, restart a running then/else, and change the true/false status. Lou

Dan et al, Thanks for your comments. I am trying to outline the situation here. I did my best to outline the true/false determination and with that discovered that only by also understanding triggers could one predict the true/false status. So, true/false and triggers are separate by highly interrelated topics. You need to know the nuances of both to predict how your programs will run. In short, I would love to see the owners manual, or at least the wiki have two sections back to back. 1) understanding true/flase 2) understanding triggers I have a lot less experience using the isy than a lot of people on this forum, but think I at least did an OK job outlining things. My inexperience in some sense I think helps as I have very few preconceived notions about how this works and therefore developed my concepts from a starting point that is likely not going to skip any concepts that the new ISY person would need to know. Again, I really think that having this stuff outlined in the wiki would be great and save a lot of needless confusion and questions for a lot of isy programmers. Lou

Here is what I am trying to figure out. What triggers a program to evaluate the if statement. As I understand, whenever a program is triggered, anything currently running in the "then" or "else" section is terminated. As I also understand, an object that is in an "if" statement may or may not re-trigger a program depending on whether it is evaluated as a "status" or "control". For example "status" objects will re-trigger a program any time the status of that object is addressed, regardless of whether it changes or not. At the same time, a "control" object will only re-trigger a program if it is addressed with the exact command written in the rule. In the programming section we have lots of potential commands to put in the "if" section. Which ones will cause a trigger under what circumstances is the question? Schedule 1) time is - causes a trigger at the specific time listed 2) to/from - ??? a trigger when it hits "from" and another at the "to" ??? Condition 1) status - a trigger every time the object (insteon device) is sent a signal regardless of whether it is a change or not or whether it is the status listed in the "if" statement. 2) control - a trigger only when the exact command listed is sent (ie "on") other commands do not trigger. The current state is not relevant (in other words it would not have to become "on", an "on" command to an already on device would still be a trigger) 3) program - ?? triggers when the listed program runs regardless of what happens to its true/false status ?? 4) IR - ?? triggers every time that specific IR command is received (like pressed) while other commands on the ir freq may occur without triggering, similar to how "control" works ?? 5) X10 - don't care, I have none 6) Module - don't even know what to guess here

Ohhhh, the nuances or this thing. So restarting a "wait" timer really goes to rules of "trigger". If a program re-triggers, any "wait" command running will be aborted and potentially restarted when appropriate. The program statement: "if control 'ligth switch' is switched on" only is a trigger if the "on" button is hit. Anything else you do to that switch will not trigger the program and the "wait" command will run its course unaffected? The program statement: "If status 'light switch' is 43%" is a trigger anytime someone does anything to that switch and therefore will restart the wait command? Is there a wiki page that outlines the rules of what constitutes a trigger with reference to each of the different types of "if" statements possible?

So you are saying that a program in the midst of a "wait" commnad will terminate (along with all "then" stuff following the wait) in the event that the "if" section is triggered again prior to the termination of the "wait"? So if time = something is the only "if" command, then the program should trigger at that time, and unless another program forces a re-trigger, the program will run to its conclusion. But if you had a "such and such light is switched on" as a trigger with a "wait" as part of the "then", if someone did anything to that switch during the "wait" period, the program would re-trigger and the previous "wait" period would be aborted along with whatever followed? If the re-trigger event occurs but doesn't change the status of the program (ie it stays true), does the "wait" start over from scratch or does it keep going along the time line started by the first trigger?

The icon switches look different so that is no good. If you look at the high wattage (2476dh) switches and how much more they cost than the standard, I would think that the load side does play a significant role in cost. Also, the icon switches are I think 300 watt rated and they cost significantly less. Now the icon switches also only have a single led, so how that plays into cost, I don't know. Otherwise the icon switches look a whole lot like the 2476d's both front and back which rules out things like the mechanical parts or the physical structure being the cost.

Why doesn't SH sell a non-load switchlinc. It seems like a significant part of the cost of those switches would be in the circuits to handle the load. In my home probably 1/3 of the switches (maybe more) are capped on the load side. It would be nice if perhaps a half-price non-loadable switch were available. Perhaps it could be the 2476DN (N for non load), look just like the 2476D and have the same features, minus the load.

I saw some stuff from indymike where he listed lamplincs at 1 watt and another at 0 watt. I think something is up with that 0 watt, maybe a rounding error. Anyway, I only have a couple of lamplincs and appliance links but have tons of switchlincs. I didn't see anything about switchlincs. 1 watt seems reasonable which would mean that my entire insteon setup would still be under 100 watts. Also, what about the ISY? It gets power from the PLM. Does the PLM draw different when it has the ISY connected?

I was just reading that wikipedia page again and am sort of getting this. It looks like you need a lot calculus to figure the area under the curve. It would appear that there is an ebb and flow of power as capacitors are charged from the utility and then discharged back to the utility as the utility voltage drops and crosses 0. So I don't know how a meter measures current and volts in a situation like this. Seems like you probably need a fancy one to correctly measure all of this stuff. I can see why the electic company wouldn't like this as it would mess with the wave form and voltages if done on a large scale. So does anyone then actually know how many watts the insteon switches actually consume and therefore what role it would have on our electic bill? Incidently, typical 110 (or 120) is the average voltage. The sine waves peak much higher. The equation is 110 (or 120) times square root of 2. For 120 household current the peaks are 170 volts.