apostolakisl

The x10 a6 is unrelated. It is a motion sensor. Mostly it is a whole bunch of scenes that get shut off and then all the status reports from all the devices in those scenes. I have thought maybe of making one big scene with all those things in it. It would reduce Insteon traffic. But that is a big scene.

Here is the log. Sorry it is long because the program triggers a lot of stuff. I will copy it over to that other page. The first line is the status of the "all off" keypad button going to 0 when my wife pushed it. The last line is the overhead lights turning on to 25% (erroneously). I don't know how much you clean get from this since it is not the detailed view, but you can't get that after the fact. Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad / Mstr Bed Key B all off Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:34 PM System Log Scene:Family Rm Ceil S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Kitchen Puck S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Kithchen Island S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Upstairs Hall S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Patio Lts S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Frt Foyer Chandalier S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Exterior Lights S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Dining Rm Chand S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Barrell Hall S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Scene:Back Hall S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Dining Room / Dining Rm @ Liv-Chand Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Garage / Garage-Floures L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Playroom / Playroom-Center Lt L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM Program Log Kitchen / Kitchen Intercom-Puck L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM System Log Kitchen / Kitchen Micro-Puck Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM System Log Kitchen / Kitchen Corner-Puck Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:35 PM System Log Kitchen / Kitchen-Over Sink L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:36 PM Program Log Scene:Night Routine S Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:36 PM Program Log Living Room / Living Rm-Couch Lamps L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:36 PM Program Log Living Room / Living Rm-Wine Rm L Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:37 PM Program Log Scene:Master Keypad B On 255 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:37 PM Program Log X10 A6 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:38 PM System Log Master Bedroom / Master-Cans over Bed L On 63 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:38 PM Program Log Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad On 63 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:38 PM Program Log X10 A6 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:38 PM System Log X10 A6 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:39 PM System Log Scene:Master keypad A Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:40 PM Program Log Scene:Master Keypad B On 255 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:40 PM Program Log X10 A6 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:40 PM System Log Upstairs Hall / Upstairs-Arches L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Living Room / Living Rm-Piano L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Dining Room / Dining Room-China Cab L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Foyer / Foyer-Niche L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Family Room / Family Rm-Lamp L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Foyer / Foyer@Stairs-Chandalier / Foyer@Stairs-Upstairs Arches Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Living Room / Living Rm-Eyeball L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log Foyer / Foyer-Mstr Vestibule Nook L Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:42 PM System Log X10 A6 On (3) Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:43 PM System Log A10 a6 1 Status 100% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:43 PM System Log Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad / Mstr Bed Key B all off Status 100% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:44 PM System Log Scene:Master keypad A Off 0 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:44 PM Program Log Scene:Master Keypad B On 255 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:44 PM Program Log X10 A6 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:44 PM System Log Scene:Master Keypad B On 255 Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:45 PM Program Log Master Bedroom / Master-Cans over Bed L Status 25% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:45 PM System Log Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad / Mstr Bed Key A Kitchen S Status 0% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:45 PM System Log Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad Status 25% Sat 2011/12/17 10:58:45 PM System Log

This program has 3 triggers. This means it will run either the "then" or "else" should any of the following things happen. 1) Pushing the "on" on your remotelinc 2) When the time is sunset -30 3) Whent the time is sunrise +30 1 - It will eval "true" if the time is between the two above times, "false" otherwise (if you hit the button). 2 - It will always run false at that time since you would need to simultaneously hit the remote linc "on" to run true. (not gonna happen). It will list as a "next scheduled run" in program summary page. 3 - It will run "false" at that time no matter what and also show up as a "next sheduled run." I use a "dark outside" program for lots of things. The program is as follows: If From Sunset - 15 minutes To Sunrise + 15 minutes (next day) Then - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I include the "true" or "false" status of that program as a condition of other programs. It works quite nicely and saves me a little extra coding (one line vs two) on all those programs that run at night only. Otherwise it works exactly the same as if you had put the times into each program. The program runs twice per day and the program status changes. The change in status is a trigger so any program that refrences it will run, checking the other conditions, and going either "true" or "false".

I used two of these, one for 5v and one for 12v. http://www.ebay.com/itm/180588155864?ss ... 1497.l2649 One side is positive, the other negative. I ended up using every slot on the 12v one and about 2/3 of the 5v. There is someone on cocoontech.com forum who is selling much nicer ones for $10/ea. They are "used". His have fuses on each slot. The ATX supply has a breaker in it to protect against shorts (it works, I accidentally tripped it twice hooking it all up) but if it trips, everything shuts off. I also plugged the ATX into a UPS so power failures don't mess with my system. The ATX supply should list on it all the different specs on the wires. There will be one main color wire for 12v and one for 5v. The amps/volts for each color wire will be written in those specs. There are some 3v leads and some neg voltage leads but they are spec'd at minimal amps. You will also need to short the signal wire to ground. Again, this should be listed on the unit. But you can also go to wikipedia and it lays it out there too. The signal wire is how you turn it on. There is also one wire that provides minimal current even when off. This is what would power your computers clock maybe and give it enough power to have stuff like wake on lan active. You shouldn't need that for this job. As far as the large voltage range on ISY. I can only assume it has a 5v regulator in there (haven't opened it). If so, these devices dump extra energy as heat. If you have a good 5v supply that doesn't dip when current draw goes up, then you should stick with the lower voltage since there is less heat. EDIT: And yes, I left my Elk wall wart intact. But I did power a bunch of the accessories off of the ATX like the XEP and Relay boards.

I took an ATX power supply from an old computer and hooked it up to two terminal blocks, one for 5v and one for 12v. I cut the wall warts off of everyting that was either 5 or 12v and ran them directly into the terminal blocks. The 9v stuff is SOL. Had to keep the wall warts. I did this a month or two ago. My stuff has never run so well. I never have problems with anything needing reboots anymore. This confirms my suspicions that stuff like routers and whatnot getting screwy on you is from poor voltage regulation from crummy wall warts. The 5/12v status of the ATX power supply is within .05v every time I have tested it. And it doesn't fluctuate as loads come on and go off. I am sure if I took it up to it's max rating, I would start seeing fluctuation, but that shouldn't happen. I got rid of 15 wall warts in my control room. My poor power strips look so lonely now. The ISY is running off of 5v.

This happens every now and then. I don't know why. I have a 6 button KPL V.2C in the master bedroom next to the bed. I have programmed one switch on that KPL to be lit when any number of lights in the house are not off (about 20 or so). Pushing that button shuts all of those lights off. I have programmed the off button on the kpl to turn the overhead lights in the master on to 25% if they are off and you push off. This program runs sometimes (rarely, like once/mo) when you run the other program. It happened last night. I checked the summary page and indeed the program to shut the lights off ran as expected and then 20 seconds later the other program ran and the master overheads turned on to 25%. There should be no way for that program to run unless someone physically pushes the "off" button. How could this be? I am confident my wife did not hit the wrong button (or both buttons). It has happened to me as well, and I know I didn't hit the wrong button. I do still have one of those KPL's that Michelle tells me gives false messages (2d), so I don't know if that could be the problem. But it seems like a stretch that the 2d KPL is triggering the program. If Status 'Master Bedroom / Master-Cans over Bed L' is Off And ( Control 'Master Bedroom / Master-Cans over Bed L' is switched Off Or Control 'Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad' is switched Off ) Then Set 'Master Bedroom / Master-Cans over Bed L' 25% Set 'Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad' 25% Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') If Control 'Master Bedroom / Master-Keypad / Mstr Bed Key B all off' is switched Off Then Set Scene 'Family Rm Ceil S' Off Set Scene 'Kitchen Puck S' Off Set Scene 'Kithchen Island S' Off Set Scene 'Upstairs Hall S' Off Set Scene 'Patio Lts S' Off Set Scene 'Frt Foyer Chandalier S' Off Set Scene 'Exterior Lights S' Off Set Scene 'Dining Rm Chand S' Off Set Scene 'Barrell Hall S' Off Set Scene 'Back Hall S' Off Set 'Kitchen / Butlers Pantry-Puck L' Off Set 'Garage / Garage-Floures L' Off Set 'Breakfast Room / Breakfast Rm-Chand L' Off Set 'Family Room / Family Rm-Over MantleLt L' Off Set 'Kitchen / Kitchen-Over Sink L' Off Set Scene 'Night Routine S' Off Set 'Living Room / Living Rm-Couch Lamps L' Off Set 'Living Room / Living Rm-Wine Rm L' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Thanks. As you may have guessed, I don't own any, I use my Elk's relays for that type of stuff. I don't understand why the io linc wouldn't have state reporting built-in like everything else, but, whatever. I would have suspected then that the OP would have noticed the state being reported wrong in ISY since it's last command was to turn it on and the query never ran. Maybe he did and just didn't report it. Although, I don't really see any use for having it report correctly in isy. I can't think of a situation where you would use that info in a program or otherwise if it were set to momentary.

As Lee said. Be aware, that what is written after the wait is never happening (your query statement). As soon as that door starts moving, the program re-triggers, the wait terminates a split second later (never finishing), the program evaluates to false, the else clause runs (which is blank). You don't need the query statement. Insteon devices always update the PLM when they change state. Only a comm failure would prevent that. So a query would only help if your comm was borderline and having multiple status updates helps the odds.

Do you already have a large insteon installation with lots of links or are you installing a virgin system? If you already have a links between your switches. The easiest thing might be to pick the single switch that has the most widespread links, and link that one. Then let the ISY do a spider link using the links from that switch to find the other switches and then cascade down using the links from those switches to find more switches. Depending on how many cross links you have this may find all, most, or not that many of your switches. When you link that device, click on "keep links and add devices linked"

There was a thread about this just a week or so ago. The short answer is no. Maybe that thread was on cocoontech.com forum but I think it was here. There were some bluetooth ideas and some ideas to use the dhcp license handed out by a router to tell when you have gotten in range. The only other idea I can think of is to write an app for your cell phone that is instructed to hit the isy with a rest command when it joins your home network. I haven't a clue how you would write such a program. Probably doable on a droid since you wouldn't need Apple's permission. At present I have a keyfob I picked up on ebay for about $15 that is connected to 4 zones on my Elk. When I come home I push the appropriate keyfob button and that triggers an Elk zone which is synchornized with ISY and executes everything based on time of day and whatnot.

It's funny sometimes how the obvious can stare you in the face and whack you over the head, and still. . .

All of my "on-board" zones still show -60 for temp. So, if that was supposed to change, it has not changed on my system either.

All of those things you list have pre-built devices specifically for that task with all the limit switches, torque setings and what-not configured. You can make this stuff from scratch. I have made a few things myself. However, I have a workshop with metal working mills, lathes, welding, etc. Plus lots of random shelves full of random things that I modify for a task at hand. I do enjoy seeing what I can build out of the stuff in the workshop that my wife would have thrown away if left to her own. And it takes a lot of time to make these things. I would not go to the trouble to make something for a standard application like closing drapes, it is usually cheaper and definitely a hell-of-a-lot easier to buy the prefab ones. The prefab devices will typically have a dry contact for open/close.

No, I think you pretty much have figured out the only way to randomize running of a program. You could let the program run every day, but just randomize the start time and the duration time. Not exactly the same, but this is how most people would do it and it gives the impression someone is actually living there all the same.

Yes, you have a router that doesn't support the ISY auto config. You will need to manually set your router to port forward to ISY. I suggest using the secure port (443). I assume your isp has not given you a static ip, so you will need to setup a dynamic dns server. dyndns.com can guide you through that. Probably your router has a page dedicated to that function, but if not, you can run an application in the background on your pc. You need to give your ISY a static IP address if you haven't already done so. Go to your router page and find the port forwarding section. Set port 443 to point to whatever IP address you gave the ISY (like 192.168.1.xx). Now, from any internet connection, type in https://www.thenameyousetupwithdyndns.com and it will take you to the ISY.

It's every switch I have set to beep. 2476d's 2476s's 2476db's All of my switches are about 2 years old or less as I replaced essentially all of them for the paddle issue. If I sort the log by "beep" it is 100% of them that do the error.

OK, but then why does it happen? I have about 5 programs written like this to beep the switch a minute or so before it is going to be flipped off. All of them appear to be giving the nack every single time they receive the beep command. The beep does beep. Also, how does the duration number work? As I mentioned it seems like the beep sounds the same no matter what the number.

Well, I bet you can do it. Setting up a CAI to just monitor temp is a lot lot easier than setting up an ISY. Just connect the temp probe, connect the power cable, connect the cat5, log into the unit, enroll the temp sensor and give it a static ip address. Create a temp variable in isy. Run io_guys program and enter the cai and isy's ip address. It will find the units and populate the variables. Then set the temp in cai to update the isy temp variable. Done

If you have an Elk security system and the module then you can do it that way. Another option is to get a CAI Webcontrol ($35) and a temp probe for it ($5). Then load io_guy's syncing program which will keep one of the variables in ISY set to the current temp. This will require that a computer is left on with io_guys program running in the background.

I noticed in my log that every time one of my switches beeps as a result of a program telling it to, I get this error log. This is true for multiple programs working on different switches. All programs have the same structure. The switch does beep as expected. Also, if someone could tell me what the number next to beep duration means. I have set it to different numbers and don't notice anything different. Kitchen / Pantry-Light L Beep 100 Thu 2011/12/08 02:50:45 PM Program Log Kitchen / Pantry-Light L Beep 100 Thu 2011/12/08 02:50:45 PM Program -1 If Status 'Kitchen / Pantry-Light L' is not Off Then Set 'Kitchen / Pantry-Light L' 100 (Beep Duration) Wait 30 seconds Set 'Kitchen / Pantry-Light L' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I would not have pushing the keypad link button turn the lights off and lower the furnace. Instead, I would have the "armed away" status of the alarm do that. Then no matter how you arm the system the lights will turn off and the furnace shut down. This is how I have my home system. And I agree with the above method of linking the two keypad link buttons into one scene. Then using the scene status to set the alarm. In addition to that, I would right a program that turns the scene on when the system is armed away. In this way, if you arm the system using a different method, the button will still light up.

I have a chicken coup with a home made automatic door opener. I am using my Elk to control it but that I could be using the ISY just the same. I use an RF relay to control it. I soldered the remote controls button terminals to relays on the Elk which causes the remote to send the signal to the RF relay unit in the coup which closes or opens the door. It works great. This is the RF relay I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130545242235?ss ... 1439.l2649 I used this set of double pole relays since each button closes 2 contacts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130589816898?ss ... 1439.l2649 The double pole relays are connected to 8 outputs on the Elk. When you turn an output on the elk on, it powers up one of the relays on the dpdt board. This closes a contact on the rf transmitter which sends the signal to the rf receiver which closes a relay which powers the motor that closes or opens the door. Now that I have the ISY/Elk module I could use ISY to control it. If I hadn't already set it up in ISY, I would do that, but why bother now, it works as it should. It takes a little patience to solder up the 32 wires necessay to control all 8 buttons (th

I was thinking, it might be possible to take an old strand of lights that don't work, cut off the wire from the pass through plug they come with, solder the resistor to the little stub of wire and shrink wrap it with that insulation srink wrap stuff. In this fashion, you will have a very small solution that also has a pass through plug. It will be 99.99% invisible.

I don't really think it is a good idea to take your lamplinc appart and void the warranty and possibly screw it up. It really is so easy to just put a tiny little load on with the led lights. If you really wanted something tiny, you could experiment with resistors and find the highest rated resistor that drains off enough juice to stop the led's from glowing. Just stick the two leads into the female part of one of your strings of light and see which ones get the lights to shut down. Of course only do this with the lamplinc off (only the sensor current flowing) so as to avoid getting shocked. Once you determine the best resistor, wire it up to a plug, insulate it, and plug it in to the string of lights.

Yes, I learned of this last year. The devices are not malfunctioning. They normally "leak" a micro amount so that they can tell if you manually turn the attached device (light) on/off. The thing with LED's is that they require only milliamps to start to light up. If you want to block this from happening add another load. A wall wart does the job.