apostolakisl

You probably need to change your dns. I had the same problem. When you click on the "synchronize now" button does it give you an error about the DNS? It would make sense that this would happen when you switch providers since the DNS from your old provider is probably not accessable unless you are on their connection.

OK, I fixed it by changing my DNS server. Don't know why it stopped working.

So I tried time-nw.nist.gov as well. I get the same error. Must be something with the ISY.

I noticed that my ISY clock was off by like 15 minutes. So I checked the time server section and I had an ! mark next to the time server. I was using us.pool.ntp.org which used to work I tried changing to 0.north-america.pool.ntp.org and that didn't work either. What am I doing wrong here? The error it is giving me is that it can't resolve the dns.

I don't understand why you want the program to be false except while sending an email. I don't think this has anything to do with you email issue, but the program will only send an email when it is triggered. the following program If time is 7:00 am and if away folder is true then send email else nothing Will send an email every day at 7am and only at 7am provided away folder is true. Why are you trying to make the program list as false at other times? I would look to your away folder as the most likely reason it is not sending an email. Is it possible that it is becoming false for some reason?

Why are you using the time interval instead of just a single time?

So the beep duration setting on ISY is just decoration? I also noticed that nothing seemed to change with different settings.

Sorry to hear about your mess. I have a bunch of water sensors installed but haven't got around to doing all of them yet. I also have a whole house surge supressor sitting in a box waiting to get installed on my second breaker box. I keep thinking I better get to it or I'll be sorry! Even if you had the water sensor in place without the kill switch on the machine but it at least shut off the whole house water, it would have cut the water spillage down to just one cycle instead of three (or however many your maching is set for). And yes, I feel your pain on how pricey those water valves are. I think I spent like $300 on mine. However, I do know of multiple people who have suffered extensive water damage which makes $300 seem like nothing.

Actually, in more critical applications, it would be better to run it electrically NO. Otherwise, if the relay should fail, you wouldn't know until you actually needed it. I set up my water shutoff valve along the same way, the main supply solenoid/valve is normally flow closed, it needs to be powered to allow flow. Odd about the terminology, that an electrical NO = a plumbing NC. * Orest True, but by leaving a relay energized all the time you are inviting it to fail and then you will be stuck without a dishwasher until you get around to fixing it. When the only down side is the water that is in the machine getting pumped to the floor, it wouldn't be the end of the world if it failed. The whole house water valve would be another story. With a water valve you should use one of the actuated models, not a solonoid model. The elk WSV for example. I do have the relay the signals the actuator in the energized position when open, which means a failure of the relay would close the water valve. But that doesn't protect you from a failure of the actuator. I have my Elk WSV shut the house off 30 minutes after the system arms away so it gets operated several times per day. I can see and hear it actuate as I drive the car into the garage upon returning.

I totally concur with using a properly rated relay. I would suggest a double throw relay and hook the dishwasher up to the NC side. In this way powering the relay will disconnect the appliance. Since the relay will spend 99.9999% of its life with the appliance powered, you probably don't want the coil constantly energized. You can use an Insteon lamplinc or appliancelinc to power the coil. I have water protection in my house but have hard wired everything. Insteon almost always works, but I prefer the higher reliability of hard wired for my security and water protection.

As mentioned, yes. This is exactly what you do to get a then clause to run all the way through without possibility of being interupted. Put the "then" claue in a disabled program and use an enabled program to call it up.

I am with you Vipola. I know that you can click on the path header and drag it across to the first row sort of making a tree, but the rest of the world puts everything into actual trees in the first place. Also, once you exit and return, it goes back to displaying things the old way. I would love to see it all in a tree format right off when you open the program summary page. Lou

Sounds like a bad switch. You might try removing it from ISY completely (not just deleting from programs), and, if still behaving like that, wiring it into a home that has no other Insteon devices.

That is great. I didn't realize that programs can be used to "reprogram" scenes. I look forward to using that feature.

If you think about it a little bit, you can see why controlling a switch from something other than switch should only control that switch, and not propogate onto other switches. When you start creating more scenes and having switches in more than one scene, what you would realize is that turning a single switch on could potentially cascade into practically every switch in your house. You will also notice that a switch is allowed to be a controller for only one scene. It can be a responder to as many as you like. Again, this keeps things from snowballing. Think of it this way, for a change in switch "A" to cause a change in switch "B" switch "A" must be physically acted on (you pushed it), not acted on by an insteon command (responding to a scene). Also, imagine having a switch as a member of two scenes, just because you want that switch to turn on in a specific scene doesn't mean you want all of the lights associated with that switch in a different scene to also turn on. Hope that made sense. Mobile linc has a shortcomming, it doesn't list the status of a scene. So, to know if a light is on, you need to look at the device list, but to turn it on and off and actually have all of the switches in the virtual three-way follow, you need to use the scene. I do not like this either. I am hoping that in future versions they put a scene status where something like red is off, green is on, and orange means that some of the switches are on and others off.

The above answers are very good, but may be a bit more complex of a response then a "newbie" is looking for. Here is how I think of it. 1) A program is true if the last thing it did was run the "then" 2) A program is false if the last thing it did was run the "else" 3) Disabling a program only disables it from spontaneously running (self triggering). In other words, another program can force the "if", "then", or "else" to execute, but it won't do it on its own. -for example, "if status light xyz is on" triggers every time light xyz is changed and runs "then" if light is on or "else" if it is not (and becomes true or false respectively). If the program is disabled, the program will not trigger if you control the light, it just sits there. However, another program can force it to run the program as usual by stating "run program blah blah blah (if)" or another program can jump ahead and force the "then" or "else" clause to run without regard for what is written in the "if". Hope I didn't make it too confusing again.

With one of my previous upgrades I had some programs that weren't doing what they should have. I deleted them and wrote the exact same program back in and it worked as expected??????

I plead ignorance on the climate module, however, it goes against how everything else in iSY works to have the if continually evaluate. It probably works like status where every time the temp changes it re-evaluates. The other possibility is that it never triggers and that you need something else to act as a trigger. Just write your program and watch the program summary page. It will tell you every time it runs and from that you can figure out the trigger.

http://www.buy.com/prod/trendnet-tv-ip1 ... 28302.html I think this camera would do the trick. It says that it can be set to send still images via email or ftp. Provided you have wifi at your vacation home all you would need is a low voltage power source in there along with an LED bulb to illuminate the dial. And it is pretty cheap.

There was a thread on cocoontech.com about this issue. As I understand, the float in the tank turns a gauge that is insde the tank and magentized. The indicator needle that you see is placed over the magnet and follows it, thus allowing you to visualize the fluid level without having a physical connection to the inside of the tank (and thus no risk of it leaking). It seems like the simple solution is to put a rheostat on that needle, but the problem is the magnet isn't strong enough to pull the exterior needle around with the added friction of the rheostat. Brainstorming ideas 1) Place a series of magnetic contacts around the periphery and whereever the magnet is in the tank will close the nearest contact and indicate roughly the percentage full. 2) Use some sort of optical sensor that "sees" the position of the needle at various positions and similar to above, reports it. 3) Last idea, point an IP camera at the gauge and just look at it from home. You could have it automatically take a picture of the needle and email it to you once a day. No matter what you do, I don't think Insteon is going to be helpful. There are ways I could wire this into my Elk M1G but I can't think of any reliable and reasonbly priced way to do it with Insteon.

I noticed this as well. With one of the firmware updates you did maybe 6 months the list of displayed devices got a lot shorter when using the "replace with" command. So now if the device is down the alphabet, you have to sit and wait on the down arrow forever. I liked it better when it showed like 30 devices all at once, much lower chance of scrolling needed and much less scrolling when needed.

Yes, all of those settings get incorporated directly into the learned code as it is learning it. Some of them are kind of obvious, like which output you set it to send to. I have manually changed that without relearning. The gap setting seems to have something to do with how the learner recognizes when the full code is complete. I think with gap at 1 it truncates necessary code for some items. I read the online tutorial, but frankly, I couldn't really figure out what they were talking about on most issues. I may give them a call and see if they would give me a 5 minute rundown. I did talk to them once before and they seem to be pretty open to supporting their customers. If so, I will do my best to put the info on here.

Did you try playing with the "gaps" setting. That is what got my dish receiver to work. I don't really know what "gaps" changes! I didn't find that converting hex codes worked very well for me either. I doubt "repeat" would fix it since I believe that it just repeats the message. A message that doesn't work twice isn't much better than one that doesn't work once. The GC website has a very detailed pdf that probably would answer your question, if you can undertand it. I can't.

I had to change the "gaps" setting to 3 to get codes to work properly on my dish vip 622. I figured this out by trial and error. I wish I could help you out more, but I just haven't been able to find any good descriptions of exactly what the various settings change and when you might want to change them. You could also look at remotecentral.com and see if they have your unit in hex format. Global cache has a program that will convert it to their format.

Yes, I am quite certain I had deleted at least a couple network resources prior to doing the backup from which I did the restore. Keep in mind that the "restore" part was not a simple click "restore" and go.