apostolakisl

Actually, here is something simpler. Only 2 programs. Prgm 1 If humidity less than 40 Then blank Else blank prgm 2 If program 1 is true Then repeat every 1 second disable program 1 send notification wait 6 hours enable program 1 run if program 1

You probably are having hysteresis issues. If the humidity goes 40, 39 ,40, 39 etc, it will keep resetting the program. Go with the second set of program I listed that blocks that.

program 2 re-enables program 1 once humidity hits 44, program 1 will then run false on the next humidity change, triggering 3 to run false, ending the repeat. Nothing can trigger program 3 except a CHANGE in the status of program 1. Program 1 can run over and over a million times but program 3 sits idle unless it changes from true to false or vice versa. Though in this example, doesn't even matter. Once prgrm 1 becomes true, it sits idle and disabled until the humidity tops 43.

No need for variables when you only need two values, just use the true/false state of the program as a variable. To add hysteresis, add a third program. I believe this is the least amount of code possible to accomplish the task. Prgm 1 If Humidity less than 40 Then disable prgm 1 (this program) Prgm 2 If Humidity greater than 43 Then enable prgm 1 Prgrm 3 If Prgm 1 true Then repeat every 6 hour send notifications

@ewindYou can also do this. Though it won't have hysteresis, it is a bit simpler Prgm 1 If humidity less than 40 Then blank Else blank prgm 2 If program 1 is true Then repeat every 6 hours send notification

But they continue to have items that were out of stock become in stock again. Sometimes only briefly and other times for extended time. This points to a supply side shortage. I suppose it could be a supply of cash, but it doesn't seem that way. For example, the Serial PLM was back in stock for a while and then sold out again. The high wattage dimmers came back in stock and are still in stock. PLC has its issues, no doubt. But I have not had issues with it since going dual band. It is very very rare for me to have a missed com. Going to z-wave with its delays and compatibility issues doesn't appeal to me. Wifi devices are fine until you end up with hundreds of them and your network becomes a bear to manage. And wifi devices potentially provide a back door into your network hackable from anywhere on the planet. I like that ISY is my only. The high end stuff that hard wires back to your central control panel is just stupid expensive and I just can't see why it is any better except that maybe you go from 99.9% to 100%, except when it breaks and then you are SOL until an over priced technician comes to your house.

@Javi Strong work.

When I scroll down the page to get to a device, it keeps popping back to the start. This is very frustrating. I can never get to the thing I want to get to. It might pop back after a couple seconds of scrolling or maybe it takes 5 or 10. The time is not always the same.

My outdoor gfci trips every now and then as well. Usually I can blame it on rain. It takes very little to trip those things so just a few drops of water can leak a few milliamps of power to ground and it pops. Mine trips so rarely, maybe 2 times a year, that I just reset it and move on. Almost always after rain, but surprisingly, it may rain cats and dogs and be fine, and it may be a more normal rain and it pops. I suspect it is wind direction. If it were more frequent, I would go through all your connections and be certain they are water proof. Sometimes they get a little weak and trip without appropriate cause. Finally, be certain you know all the outlets that are on the gfci. As you know, they daisy chain them and you may have an outlet somewhere with a bad device that you don't realize is on the gfci. Long ago I lived in a house that had the master bath plugs on a gfci that was in the garage. I guess they thought the $15 for a gfci was too high and instead they would pull all that extra wire and time to daisy chain it. Question that came to mind is if you have a low voltage transformer. Not sure if low voltage power leaking to ground would trip a gfci. Being on the back side of the transformer may isolate it from the gfci. Of course being 12v it would be a challenge to get injured.

I think what your asking for is a screen on UD mobile that is custom to the node server? So, perhaps the UD mobile app shows a screen that resembles an Elk keypad. Yes, that would be nice, but sounds complex. I kind of doubt it will happen. Perhaps UD Mobile would create a more customizable favorites page or sub-pages where the user could design their own interface? Personally, I use UD Mobile to control my Elk. I have just created several buttons on the favorites page that do the handful of Elk tasks that I might choose to do from my phone. Pretty much, the only thing I do from my phone is arm the system to away mode. Elk also runs my sprinkler so I have a couple buttons under favorites to start it, end it, and advance zone. As rare is it is for me to do anything else from the phone, I just drill down the menus.

Here is a great "red neck" video showing a short circuit. 6ms in this case. My personal experience with ahemm, perhaps, maybe I might have accidentally bumped some hot wires to ground in the past, is that 6ms is about right. Even the most transient of touches pops it. All circuit breakers regardless of arc fault and ground fault are going to still do what this one did. This is the most basic function of a breaker. . . protect the house. Funny how people always thought circuit breakers were to stop electrocution, only the newer gfci ones do that, standard ones only protect people by preventing them from dying in a house fire. They also protect your wallet from a costly repair.

If you directly connect two legs of 120v split phase you have a pure short and your breaker must pop in milliseconds or it isn't working right. MWBC or otherwise doesn't matter, pure short should pop "instantly" or it isn't doing its job of protecting your house. A pure short can very quickly destroy the wire, especially if you have any splices that aren't perfect. A pure short that persists for a few seconds would be nasty. It could easily be hundreds of amps going through some little 14 or 12 wire. Those curves are meant to prevent transient and reasonable over-currents from popping breakers, like the inflow rush of turning on a vacuum, not a full out short. I would propose perhaps, if you connected the neutral wire coming off a load from one leg to the hot wire on the other leg, then you would get a 240 voltage going to that appliance and (with resistance appliance) a double amp which could put you at the edge and let it warm up the wire if it ran for a few seconds before popping. Probably also destroy your appliance. Either way, if he was in "over his head" then that is on him. In summary, knowing where all the wires go and labeling can never be a bad thing. EDIT: It did occur to me that if it was a 20amp breaker and 14 gauge wire (of course not code) you would have enough resistance in the wire to prevent an "instant" popping of the breaker. This is actually the reason for #12 wire on a 20amp breaker. #14 can handle 20 amps, it just won't blow a 20amp breaker as quickly as it should when shorted.

Exactly what I had suggested before it was labeled as ~don't ever do that. Trace out the wires so you know what goes where and then label it for all future activity. And then of course once you know what goes where, there isn't really any excuse for connecting them wrong.

He didn't do what I said or, despite tracing out the wires and knowing where they go, did something quite clueless in splicing two hots together from different circuits. I would assume he did not trace out the wires but rather just started hooking things up wrong. Plus, he would have had to shut off two breakers to get the power off, another clue. I would also suggest replacing your sons breakers. If they didn't trip prior to melting wire then they are bad. It is very unlikely that two different circuits are going to the same switchbox. If the switchbox is handling many switches, the chances go up, but if there is only one switch, then chances are pretty much zero. Even if there are lots of switches, it would be very rare that two circuits are feeding it. Nothing wrong with taking pictures and I highly encourage (do it myself all the time), but the cat is out of the bag on this one. He already didn't take pictures and disconnected. Knowledge of the wire runs is never a bad thing and with said knowledge you then correctly connect them.

An electrician could probably look at this and figure out very quickly what wires are what. The novice will get confused and it is difficult to communicate these things over a forum. A simple, but slightly tedious process can be undertaken to figure it out without requiring any of the intuition achieved from experience. Turn off the Power of course 1) Open up all switch boxes and fixture boxes involved. 2) Disconnect every single splice/fixture so you just have individual wires poking out and not touching anything. 3) Clip your ohm meter to two wires (might choose black and bare ground) that are in the same jacket at any of the locations. Select the ohm meter to make a tone on short. 4) Now go one by one through your other locations and tap together <black and bare ground> wires until you hear your ohm meter beeping. Now you have established one run of wire. 5) Label the wires and move onto the next set of jacketed wires until you have tracked down each run of wire. Once you know every run of wire, the rest should be easy.

I don't know how these wifi bulbs work exactly having never used one, but I just suspect that with 100 or so of them, it would be a PITA of mega proportions to link them all and maintain it. I would have to create a whole new subnet just for them and I suspect that might be the easiest part. Should I use "dumb" bulbs then I just use a handful of "smart" switches, several of which I have already installed. Those wifi bulbs look very nice and maybe I'll consider them at home. But at church, I just want orange when dim and soft white when bright. I was able to find another website (bulbsdepot.com) that sells the Philips bulbs under a slightly different model number. I suspect the ones at HD are specially packaged for HD versions of the same thing. I ordered one to try it out. Shipping is flat rate $9.95 for 1 or 100. This bulb lists the dimmed color at 2200K and the full bright at 2700K.

The Cree one I think would pass muster with the aesthetic critics, but the price is going to be an issue being 3x the price of the Phillips and fewer lumens. Really I would never use most of the features and I'm looking at a rather daunting task of linking ~70 bulbs to the wifi. But then again, these are available and the Phillips are not. I have been really really happy with all the Cree commercial fixtures I own (3 different styles and many of them), and have been hugely disappointed with all the Cree retail lights I have owned. Not sure where these bulbs fall. Every single Cree screw-in bulb I have ever bought failed far earlier than rated. Like 1/10th rated or less.

The bulbs are exposed in wall sconces and chandeliers, so they have to look like regular incandescent bulbs. To the best of my knowledge, smart bulbs don't look like that. I can promise you, if I try to swap out bulbs with something that looks funny, I will hear about it. But maybe what you speak of do look OK, you'd have to give me an example.

Thanks. That is the wrong base, but I found it online with the correct base. They don't stock it, so I'll have to order them. Hopefully they look like they say. I don't really care if they don't dim smooth to zero, that doesn't matter. In fact, I would be fine if they just had two settings, dimmed and orange, bright and soft white. EDIT: Can't get it. Out of stock everywhere.

How about candelabra bulbs? I really need a nice looking one to use in my church. The bulbs are exposed in chandeliers so they have to look good. We have 6 chandeliers with 12x 60 watt bulbs each. They are split onto two dimmers. I can't automate them with because of the 1500 watts per switch. Plus we'd like to take the electric bill down if possible, usually using the AC here so basically when we have all the lights on (we have a bunch more that aren't on chandeliers) it is like running a 5000 watt space heater while running the AC. The priest wants bulbs that turn orange when dimmed for night services, and none of the led's I have come across do that, even the ugly ones.

Rf works very well all by its lonesome. I have bridged buildings on separate utility connections using rf only with great success. Failing plms on the other hand have become ubiquitous. I also referring you to the thread using a Rpi and USB RF dongle where error free operation is reported.

Good to see that UD took that route. I am very pleased that it accepts USB plm. I think I will pick up a couple of the USB sticks. My suspicion is that these lack the failure mode of the line voltage PLM's.

Might see if you can make the error say something like "that portal account already registered" instead of that jargon.

What is up with this? I have two ISY's on the same portal account and when I tried to login to the portal to add the second ISY, I got this. Also, unlrealted question, I don't see any place to input the lan ip address but it does have you enter the lan ssid. Is the purpose of this that UD mobile will search the lan when connected to that ssid?

Last I heard, ISY running on Polyisy wasn't going to support Insteon, at least not natively. Has this changed? I as well have Polyisy pro and that was pretty much because I bought it in the initial roll out at a special price. The wifi would be useful if you wanted to put the polisy somewhere without ethernet, but I don't see that this is so useful. For the most part, I would expect Polyisy to be sitting next to your router. I have no idea what bluetooth application would run on polisy, but lets say they come up wtih something. Obviously this is a fairly short range radio so Polisy would need to be close to your phone or whatever bluetooth device you intend on using with it. Now, perhaps the best place to put polyisy is not next to your router or some other ethenet source but rather near the other bluetooth device, so wifi comes in handy. But first, UD has to devise some useful bluetooth application.