apostolakisl

Do you mean even/odd as per the day of the month? ie, 29,31,1,3,5,etc? Or do you mean every other day? ISY time/data node server does both if you want. There is an even/odd day node that goes by the day of month (as in the example above). There is also the node "days since epoch" which just counts day after day after day since Jan 1, 1970. So you can do an even/odd with that by dividing by 2 and if the remainder is 0, it is an even day, if it is 1, it is an odd day. You will need to transfer the value to a variable. every other day - [ID 008E][Parent 0093][Not Enabled] If Time is 12:00:01AM Then $i.every.other.day = 'ISY Time Data' Days since Unix Epoch days $i.every.other.day %= 2 Else EDIT: You can can also do even/odd weeks by first dividing by 7, then remainder divide (%=) by 2. This works for my recycling which comes every other week.

@sjenkins what about any modules? Do you have to contact UD and have the licenses moved? Also, I don't believe that the Elk module is available on Polisy ISY?

I have a couple of x10 devices as well. They are motion sensors, which I have directly linked to Insteon switches, so I'm thinking it really won't matter if ISY no longer supports x10.

If 'Door Switches / Barn OHD / Barn OHD-Heartbeat' is switched On Then Wait 25 hours repeat every 6 hours Resource 'NotificationNS.DoorTrouble.BarnOHD' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') @MrBill An alternative way to do it that allows your notifications to come on a different schedule than every 25 hours once a failed heartbeat triggers it.

POE and data go on the same conductors. It isn't just putting power onto unused wires. There are some versions of POE on 100mb that do it that way, but those are old school. The newer standards share data and power on the same conductor. This is not a passive system, the POE device "talks" to the POE switch/injector, otherwise the injector does not put any power on the line. I have some POE++ injectors that do 60 watts to power my Unifi access control system. In that case, the injector is generic (since I have no need for a very pricey poe++ switch) and the end device is native poe++ For my cameras, the switch is POE+ and the "splitters" are generic 12v or 5v. These cheap generic splitters are prone to failure. I have had 2 of them fail out of maybe 15 after a few years. The switch is putting 48v onto the cat wire and the splitter is converting that to 12/5v. The switch and splitter communicate so the switch knows to send power only when there is a poe adapter on the end. It does not send power otherwise since that would damage a device not designed for poe.

You can make most anything POE. Just buy a POE split out if the device doesn't have it natively. I have a whole bunch of security cameras done that way. Both 12 and 5v versions. You will need to of course check the power draw of the device to ensure it doesn't exceed spec. POE++ can do something like 75 watts in the max'd out version. Of course I don't think there are any generic splitters that do that. Standard POE can do about 10 watts, maybe a little more.

I would agree with @lilyoyo1 If they have an API and all you want is to send an on/off command, then a node server is perhaps overkill. ISY can send network commands directly without needing a node server. You would just need one for on and one for off. The only downside is that network commands are one way. You can't integrate a response or do queries to keep track of on/off status. But again, a simple on/off situation isn't likely to need it. EDIT: Here is a network resource I use to send a variable value from one ISY to another. I have mostly deleted my network resources since nodeservers, but still need a few.

I see you figured it out. Unfortunately, crawling a network, while a lovely idea, just doesn't work very well. Even if it got every link perfect, ISY would have no idea how to organize your devices/scenes in folders or what name to give anything. You end up spending more time figuring out what is what than it would take to just do it from scratch. And then there is the risk of weirdness (like your beep problem). It is too late now, but if you have hard to get to devices, I would not get too hung up on doing a hard factory reset. If you delete it from ISY then add it manually (must know the address) and tell ISY to wipe all old links, that has always worked in my experience.

@Javi Just installed the update and it looks fixed. Thanks.

why does UD Mobile sometimes show a "1" on the app's icon on my android phone. It is like it is telling me there is a notification, but I can't find anywhere to read this notification. Nearest I can tell, it has something to do with a pending update?

@JaviJavi, I wanted some icons on my favorites page that would be a toggle on only button. So I set it up as a command and had it issue the scene on command for that scene. For some reason, it is not turning the scene on as expected. Lights are going to the wrong level. If I go to the scene button itself and turn it on, it works correctly. ?? Also, I get an error "could not get value for node def accepts param id 432. 500" Thanks

Actually, here is something simpler. Only 2 programs. Prgm 1 If humidity less than 40 Then blank Else blank prgm 2 If program 1 is true Then repeat every 1 second disable program 1 send notification wait 6 hours enable program 1 run if program 1

You probably are having hysteresis issues. If the humidity goes 40, 39 ,40, 39 etc, it will keep resetting the program. Go with the second set of program I listed that blocks that.

program 2 re-enables program 1 once humidity hits 44, program 1 will then run false on the next humidity change, triggering 3 to run false, ending the repeat. Nothing can trigger program 3 except a CHANGE in the status of program 1. Program 1 can run over and over a million times but program 3 sits idle unless it changes from true to false or vice versa. Though in this example, doesn't even matter. Once prgrm 1 becomes true, it sits idle and disabled until the humidity tops 43.

No need for variables when you only need two values, just use the true/false state of the program as a variable. To add hysteresis, add a third program. I believe this is the least amount of code possible to accomplish the task. Prgm 1 If Humidity less than 40 Then disable prgm 1 (this program) Prgm 2 If Humidity greater than 43 Then enable prgm 1 Prgrm 3 If Prgm 1 true Then repeat every 6 hour send notifications

@ewindYou can also do this. Though it won't have hysteresis, it is a bit simpler Prgm 1 If humidity less than 40 Then blank Else blank prgm 2 If program 1 is true Then repeat every 6 hours send notification

But they continue to have items that were out of stock become in stock again. Sometimes only briefly and other times for extended time. This points to a supply side shortage. I suppose it could be a supply of cash, but it doesn't seem that way. For example, the Serial PLM was back in stock for a while and then sold out again. The high wattage dimmers came back in stock and are still in stock. PLC has its issues, no doubt. But I have not had issues with it since going dual band. It is very very rare for me to have a missed com. Going to z-wave with its delays and compatibility issues doesn't appeal to me. Wifi devices are fine until you end up with hundreds of them and your network becomes a bear to manage. And wifi devices potentially provide a back door into your network hackable from anywhere on the planet. I like that ISY is my only. The high end stuff that hard wires back to your central control panel is just stupid expensive and I just can't see why it is any better except that maybe you go from 99.9% to 100%, except when it breaks and then you are SOL until an over priced technician comes to your house.

@Javi Strong work.

When I scroll down the page to get to a device, it keeps popping back to the start. This is very frustrating. I can never get to the thing I want to get to. It might pop back after a couple seconds of scrolling or maybe it takes 5 or 10. The time is not always the same.

My outdoor gfci trips every now and then as well. Usually I can blame it on rain. It takes very little to trip those things so just a few drops of water can leak a few milliamps of power to ground and it pops. Mine trips so rarely, maybe 2 times a year, that I just reset it and move on. Almost always after rain, but surprisingly, it may rain cats and dogs and be fine, and it may be a more normal rain and it pops. I suspect it is wind direction. If it were more frequent, I would go through all your connections and be certain they are water proof. Sometimes they get a little weak and trip without appropriate cause. Finally, be certain you know all the outlets that are on the gfci. As you know, they daisy chain them and you may have an outlet somewhere with a bad device that you don't realize is on the gfci. Long ago I lived in a house that had the master bath plugs on a gfci that was in the garage. I guess they thought the $15 for a gfci was too high and instead they would pull all that extra wire and time to daisy chain it. Question that came to mind is if you have a low voltage transformer. Not sure if low voltage power leaking to ground would trip a gfci. Being on the back side of the transformer may isolate it from the gfci. Of course being 12v it would be a challenge to get injured.

I think what your asking for is a screen on UD mobile that is custom to the node server? So, perhaps the UD mobile app shows a screen that resembles an Elk keypad. Yes, that would be nice, but sounds complex. I kind of doubt it will happen. Perhaps UD Mobile would create a more customizable favorites page or sub-pages where the user could design their own interface? Personally, I use UD Mobile to control my Elk. I have just created several buttons on the favorites page that do the handful of Elk tasks that I might choose to do from my phone. Pretty much, the only thing I do from my phone is arm the system to away mode. Elk also runs my sprinkler so I have a couple buttons under favorites to start it, end it, and advance zone. As rare is it is for me to do anything else from the phone, I just drill down the menus.

Here is a great "red neck" video showing a short circuit. 6ms in this case. My personal experience with ahemm, perhaps, maybe I might have accidentally bumped some hot wires to ground in the past, is that 6ms is about right. Even the most transient of touches pops it. All circuit breakers regardless of arc fault and ground fault are going to still do what this one did. This is the most basic function of a breaker. . . protect the house. Funny how people always thought circuit breakers were to stop electrocution, only the newer gfci ones do that, standard ones only protect people by preventing them from dying in a house fire. They also protect your wallet from a costly repair.

If you directly connect two legs of 120v split phase you have a pure short and your breaker must pop in milliseconds or it isn't working right. MWBC or otherwise doesn't matter, pure short should pop "instantly" or it isn't doing its job of protecting your house. A pure short can very quickly destroy the wire, especially if you have any splices that aren't perfect. A pure short that persists for a few seconds would be nasty. It could easily be hundreds of amps going through some little 14 or 12 wire. Those curves are meant to prevent transient and reasonable over-currents from popping breakers, like the inflow rush of turning on a vacuum, not a full out short. I would propose perhaps, if you connected the neutral wire coming off a load from one leg to the hot wire on the other leg, then you would get a 240 voltage going to that appliance and (with resistance appliance) a double amp which could put you at the edge and let it warm up the wire if it ran for a few seconds before popping. Probably also destroy your appliance. Either way, if he was in "over his head" then that is on him. In summary, knowing where all the wires go and labeling can never be a bad thing. EDIT: It did occur to me that if it was a 20amp breaker and 14 gauge wire (of course not code) you would have enough resistance in the wire to prevent an "instant" popping of the breaker. This is actually the reason for #12 wire on a 20amp breaker. #14 can handle 20 amps, it just won't blow a 20amp breaker as quickly as it should when shorted.

Exactly what I had suggested before it was labeled as ~don't ever do that. Trace out the wires so you know what goes where and then label it for all future activity. And then of course once you know what goes where, there isn't really any excuse for connecting them wrong.

He didn't do what I said or, despite tracing out the wires and knowing where they go, did something quite clueless in splicing two hots together from different circuits. I would assume he did not trace out the wires but rather just started hooking things up wrong. Plus, he would have had to shut off two breakers to get the power off, another clue. I would also suggest replacing your sons breakers. If they didn't trip prior to melting wire then they are bad. It is very unlikely that two different circuits are going to the same switchbox. If the switchbox is handling many switches, the chances go up, but if there is only one switch, then chances are pretty much zero. Even if there are lots of switches, it would be very rare that two circuits are feeding it. Nothing wrong with taking pictures and I highly encourage (do it myself all the time), but the cat is out of the bag on this one. He already didn't take pictures and disconnected. Knowledge of the wire runs is never a bad thing and with said knowledge you then correctly connect them.