apostolakisl

Did you try a factory reset? Factory reset first, then try local control. If that works, restore from ISY. However, my experience is that if the switch doesn't work when controlled manually at the switch, it is dead. If after a factory reset and restore it still doesn't work, you might try another factory reset and bench test it. Could be an issue with your light fixtures or splices, but I doubt it. And no, the only outdoor rated Insteon switch is the plug-in dongle thing. I have had Insteon switches outdoors and protected and not had them die, but certainly the wide temp swings and humidity issues outside are tough on electronics. I do not believe I have ever had a 2477D fail though. Lots of the older 2476D's failed, but never a 2477, and I have lots of them.

I don't think it is likely to work well trying to have two ISY's sync to one Elk. Probably be easier to have 1 ISY and 1 Elk. If you can bridge your two buildings together for security, I don't see why you can't bridge the two buildings for ISY. I bridged two buildings together for my church. I basically ran a long extension cord through a buried conduit and put an Insteon hub at the end of the cord. The hub accepts PLC from the "extension cord" and broadcasts radio into building two which propagates then through building two. I fused the "extension cord" with a 100ma fuse and there is no connection between the two electrical systems. Basically, I am just moving a building 1 radio into building 2. You may ask why a hub, well, I got one as part of some package deal and it is dual band so I just plugged it in. It works very well, seems to have a stronger radio than most Insteon devices. It does nothing else, just a PLC <----> radio interface.

The "hack" shown isn't shorting the wires between the GDO and the wall remote, it is shorting the two leads that go to the tactile button. Pushing the tac switch or using a dry contact as shown in the hack are electrically equivalent. So I don't think the hack above would do anything except exactly what pushing the button does.

This is how I control my GDO, not because the opener has some proprietary com protocol but rather because I didn't think to run wires while the house was under construction and I wanted my Elk to have control. So I soldered to one of the radio remotes just like the button above and mounted it next to my elk panel. 10 years and I still haven't changed the battery. I don't understand what Teken is referring to when he says the smart display resetting. Whatever happens when someone physically pushes that button should be the same thing that happens when your io linc momentarily closes the circuit. As far as the GDO opener is concerned, someone just pushed the button and I would think pushing the button would not cause havoc. I also don't quite understand why some fancy comm protocol is there at all. Are we dealing with a wall mounted GDO button? Or is this thing a lot more than a button? Trying to figure out why the wall mounted button would need to ever be anything more than a simple contact closure. Nearest guess at this point is that the gdo is wifi enabled and they want to let people program it without a ladder, so they moved all that logic to the wall button? But then they also wanted people to use the same old 2-wires that would have already been there, so they came up with some rs-485 protocol comm?

Might see if Michel would add it to the wiki.

Glad to help. I haven't used this model and hope it meets specs. The one I have is quite old, big and bulky, isn't sold anymore, and uses the standard lead-acid batteries which I have replaced at least once. This li-ion model looks great by the numbers. Should be able to keep an ISY running for hours. I believe ISY uses about 7 watts, so 98wh theoretically is more than 12 hours. Not sure if the li-ion batteries are replaceable, at least without soldering. The reviews have a consistent complaint about 12v output being less than 12v, but ISY shouldn't care with it's wide v range.

Is the program that represents the correct rainfall also running true, or only this one?

I would consider a 12v UPS. Standard UPS goes from AC to DC, back to AC, then your wall wart goes back to DC. 12V UPS goes AC to DC then done. It also means you don't need a new wall wart. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP/?coliid=I3TR56MLH2SZLS&colid=26A7L23SNB5ML&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

@ldb Did you run it as admin? Right click, "run as administrator". Also, this isn't DOS.

sounds like it has a gpio header. Of course UDI would have to write code to access those io's. And you would need to open the box and plug into the header (or solder to it, not sure if it is pinned). It also has I2C.

Flap is a purpose built flap, not anything "rigged". It is installed exactly where and how it is intended, only the addition of the reed contact is different. At any rate, it has been installed for I think 2 years. About a month ago I had to pull the drier out to do some cleaning and unhooked the pipe. The flap was 100% free of lint. However, the flap on the outside of the house was far from clean. I think, perhaps, the difference is that the outside flap is restricted to only open about an inch (by design) whereas this flap opens to a full 90 degrees.

Unfortunately, only older driers and very basic models have buzzers anymore. Most of your modern feature driers have a computer controlled speaker of some sort that plays a song or makes some other sort of not-so-obnoxious sound. Plus, why take your drier apart when all you need to do is take the vent off attach a flapper, and reinstall the vent. Zero chance of damaging anything, shocking yourself, setting anything on fire, or voiding your warranty. The only other way I would recommend is to use a current sensor on the power cord. Driers or usually sold without a cord and it is intended to be attached by the end-user, so no warranty voiding here. You can attach the current sensor inside the j-box on the back of the drier where the two legs of 240 are separate wires. If you have a 120 drier (gas), you can use a synchrolinc, if you can manage to find one.

That was me. Here is the thread where I include a shopping list and video demo. Master Drier Copy - [ID 0163][Parent 00F7] (this program enables the notification program only with 2 continuous minutes of operation) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 0 Then Wait 2 minutes Enable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Master Drier - [ID 00C6][Parent 00F7][Not Enabled][Run At Startup] (Now that drier has been on for 2 minutes straigt, this sends and email as soon as the drier turns off, then deactivates itself) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 1 Then Send Notification to 'ellen gmail' content 'Master Dryer Done' Wait 1 second Disable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I use a switchlinc. It tends to be the cheapest and easiest since I already know everything about how to use it. On gives me 5 minutes. Fast on gives me 10. Press on when it is already on and it stays on until you turn it of..

If memory serves me, Michel said that DST is executed by resetting the clock. Resetting the clock breaks all timed events at the time. No different than if you manually changed the clock. Probably a better way to have done it is to run everything on UTC time and let the clock run continuously. Any time reference within an if clause would reference UTC +/- the locally selected time zone. Say DST would just change the plus/minus number and not change the clock. But I could be full of BS.

ISY (v5) lets you access system values for date and time. However, these values can not be used in the "if" clause. You must first transfer the system value to a variable. But, how to transfer the "minutes" to a variable every minute. You must have a program that runs every minute. Which puts us back to square one. DST will tend to mess with programs that are running in wait/repeats running every minute. If you don't know about polyglot, then you should get on that. Polyglot vastly expands ISY's functionality. You either need a raspberry pi or the polisy (sold by UD). Polyglot runs nodeservers. Nodeservers currently number about 60 and do all sorts of things like link your ISY to Tesla, Roomba, Husqvarna lawnmowers, Blue Iris Software, several weather apps, and so on and so forth. You need the nosderver that does time/date. This lets you directly access all of the pieces of time and date separate from all the other pieces. Like minutes, hours, day of month, month of year, epoch date, year, month, and so on. Polisy is quite a bit more expensive than a rpi. However, polisy is likely to be the next gen ISY, which will put polisy and isy under the same hood.

Yes, to the best of my knowledge, the DST clock change kills all waits and repeats. It used to do that and I believe it still does, though I no longer have programs that run waits/repeats through the night after this issue left my sprinkler on for 24 hours striaght. If you want to run a program at the top of every hour, this is quite easy now with node server. Just install ISY time data node and then do: Or, just in case, have it run at any minute that is not 0 just to avoid any confusion that might occur at the zero minute of DST change.

This is my program. It uses an Insteon synchrolinc which I don't think they make any more. Anyway, the synchrolinc is like the CT800 except you can set parameters from ISY. This program works perfectly. Washer D - [ID 00FA][Parent 00F7] If 'Master Bedroom / Master Washer' is switched Off And 'Master Bedroom / Master Washer' is not switched On Then Wait 5 minutes Send Notification to 'ellen gmail' content 'Laundry Downstairs' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Having the "not switched on" ends the timer and runs the else clause which terminates the program. So the timer only completes when the synchrolinc is off (not detecting current) for 5 continuous minutes. I have the synchrolinc set to 15 watts trigger, 16 seconds hold off, and 5 watts hysteresis on a Samsung front loader and 3 watts, 2 seconds, 3 watts on a Whirlpool Calypso high efficiency top loader. I'm sure other settings would work, but it was something of a hunt and peck method of finding what works and once I found something that worked, I quit. The main difference between ISY and Elk programs is that ISY can have multiple triggers. In this case, both turning the synchrolinc on and turning it off are triggers. In Elk, only the first line is the trigger, additional lines are only checked when the first line condition is met. So in the ISY program my second line simply ends the running program by re-triggering it. . . closing out the true state and moving to the false state. Now, looking at your elk program, it seems like it should work. Somehow it must still have a violated condition on zone 16 after the 5 minutes. I don't know, you would have to sit there and observe it as it happens to know. Watch to see that output 100 turns on for 5 minutes, and watch the status of zone 16. Either the output isn't turning on for 5 minutes, or zone 16 is staying violated. Could it be that you have something else using output 100? Might try a different output. Try exporting your Elk programs into MS Word and do a find for the word output hunting down every instance of it.

Probably a bad switch. PLM's have issues for sure, but this doesn't sound like a PLM problem. Is your ISY having troubles communicating with anything else?

quick and dirty, just unplug ISY from the PLM and turn the light on. If it still does it, then you know it is not an ISY command (program). That leaves you with a defective switch. Try factory resetting the switch and restore it from ISY. If that fails, buy a new switch.

If it is a state variable just make a program If variable x is 0 Then send email Else send email Every time the variable x changes, it sends an email. You can embed the value of that variable in the email if you want using variable substitution syntax found in the wiki. If it is an integer variable, then you will need to use something else as the trigger. Like whatever program changes the integer value can also send the email.

I think you made my point. 1 year of upgrades and support included. If you want to continue upgrades and support there is a charge, but the software does not shut off. Furthermore, you can deactivate your license and reactivate it on another pc. I have done this a couple times with my software that is well past its support and upgrade period. EDIT: Ha, my bad too. I just noticed you wrote "my bad".

I'm quite certain you are wrong. I have version 4, and I have the option to purchase support, but my software is like 5 years old now and I only paid once. I don't see anywhere that the license is listed as a subsription. Only support.

And speak of the devil. My Insteon switches just did a chirp-chirp-chirp, I got an email with a picture of a car driving up my driveway and I looked over at the camera and there is the amazon lady dropping off 2 packages.

I'm pretty sure that is a lifetime license. The annual fee is if you want to maintain support. It is sold at newegg and walmart also for $49. The amount of pc horsepower is directly related to how many cameras you have and frame rate/resolution. Running 64 high def cameras all at once is a lot, but most people will use far less. I have an i7-6700 at 3.4ghz with 13 hd cameras and the system is not stressed.