apostolakisl

Just saw insteon 50% off lots of multipacks. Including the leak detector 7 pack. So you could do 14 of them for ~$250. If you have concerns about Insteon wireless signal, you could pick a a 7 pack of lamp modules and automate a bunch of lamps. That would make a nice lived in look when away and cover all your high risk leak areas.

@Ajax Your problem is you have too fancy of an ice machine. Seriously, though, I know someone who went out to dinner and came back to a destroyed house from a washing machine hose. My office had a washing machine hose break that took 10 minutes to shut down (people were there that didn't know how to turn the water off) which did $50k in damage. That is when I installed the shut off valve so all you have to do to shut off water is turn the alarm on. In short, if you are only going to shut down water from a leak detector, you will need to have lots of them. How PO'd would you be if you have 10 things covered and it is the 11th thing that busts a pipe?

There are water valves out there that have all of that built in to them. They supposedly have algorithms that detect slow leaks as well as major breaks. That probably works for a slow leak, but a 25gpm washing machine hose will make a serious mess in seconds, and the best you can expect a valve like this to do is maybe 10 minutes? Not sure what the algorithm is, but obviously it can's just shut the water off, you could easily be actually using water like that. Again, you should shut the water off if you our of town. You don't need ice machines or whatever to work. The only exception is irrigation, which I suggest splitting off prior to the house shut off valve. Also, ice machines work just fine shutting the water off for a few hours at a time. The pipes hold plenty of pressure to push out multiple refills of the ice tray. Especially, if like me, you have the ice machines on RO filters with pressurized holding tanks.

I agree, the easiest way to do it would be to use the exact setup that the SH picture demo's in the example. You only need the HUB if you want to be notified. But again, how many leak detectors are you going to have? Are you going to put one under every single appliance/faucet/toilet/etc? What about if you get a pin-hole in some random spot where you would never have a leak detector? If this is a vacation house that goes weeks or months un-occupied, you need to shut the water off, not rely on leak detectors. A pin hole left unchecked for a couple weeks can do amazing destruction.

@Ajax I don't know. If it is a drip drip kind of leak, probably OK. But if a washing machine hose breaks and you have 25 gpm blasting away, not sure you want to trust that method. Why don't you just shut the water off when you aren't there and not worry about leak detectors. Like I said, that is how I do my house and office. My house is fancier with a delay built in for the dishwasher and washing machine. But my house also has more than 20 hard wired leak detectors which also shut the water off without delay. My office shuts off immediately upon arming the alarm, no delays, no leak detectors. Most people with vacation homes will shut the water off manually when away, but that doesn't cover you when you go out to dinner or whatever.

I can't say for sure what valve he has, but the 3/4 inch one that pops up on SH website is a ball valve. It only needs power to actuate, it doesn't need 12v to stay open. It is not a solenoid, it is a little motor that turns the ball valve. @Ajax Just because you didn't like the Insteon, doesn't mean that you don't need/want an ISY. ISY has moved well away from Insteon dedication and is fully z-wave compatible and with the Nodeserver/Polyglot is quickly adding functionality to pretty much anything with an open API. Either way, if I were looking for a logic control solution, it is hard to go wrong with ISY, especially as cheap as they now are on SH website. And there is still a good chance that Insteon has things you want. Maybe for example, the outdoor on/off units, or fan controls, or who knows. The beauty is you can mix and match pretty easily with ISY at the center of it all. Now, to water valves, I use my alarm system to control the valves both at home and at my office. Even a basic DSC "dumb" alarm panel has outputs that can switch relays that actuate the valve. That is how it works at my office. The "dumb" DSC panel shuts the water off when armed. I have no need for water when not there. At home, I use my Elk to control it. Having said that, neither is compatible with a wireless tag (as far as I know). I don't have any wireless tags, but I understand they have an open API and can be integrated wtih ISY, so ISY would easily be handle that logic. This assumes you trust the wireless tag. If I were you, I would just turn the water off when the alarm is armed. This assumes no irrigation system or that you have the irrigation system split off prior to water entering the building.

It doesn't matter who makes the device (ISY, Indigo, whatever), they sell it. And if they sell you a device and then turn around and make it non-functional by withholding the PLM from you, they would be challenged. Probably would be forced to either make the part (plm) available or sell the rights to someone else to make it.

I don't think Insteon is in a position to discontinue the PLM until they haven't sold anything that uses the PLM for at least 5 years. With SH selling multiple software packages and ISY on their own website, they are obliged to continue to provide access to PLM's for a while. I'm sure there would be a lawsuit if they tried to stop providing what amounts to an essential "part" for products that they sell, especially considering the typical life span of that part. Now if SH only sold the PLM and none of the products that use the PLM, it would be different.

@Michel Kohanim Will polyglot support for RPi be discontinued? If so, when, if not, what will the difference be between the two?

Polyglot allows ISY to "natively" control/interact with ANY IP enabled device that has a published API. By "natively" I mean it shows up in your list of devices. All of this of course requires that someone write the code for the node server, where polyglot is the platform. It is not unlike the play store where there are a gazillion apps that people have written on the android platform that lets your phone do all sorts of things besides make phone calls. So far the "polyglot play store" is just a couple dozen "apps" and they are all free. Hopefully this will catch on and we could get hundreds or even thousands of options, and probably there will be a mechanism for people to get paid for them.

OK then, I guess they are doing a BT mesh that hops around the house like zwave or Insteon. I have to wonder what the range is. I was always under the impression that BT was a 20 foot kind of thing. After googling, I see that there are 3 classes and the high power one is 100m, though I don't believe I've ever seen a device that uses class 3. I'm assuming that is clear line of sight only. I can't find anywhere that lists the class for the Eaton lights or the Polisy BT. I'm assuming that since this is 2 way, both devices must be at high power for it to work at distance. I wonder when Eaton came out with this stuff, this is the first I've heard of it.

Agree, what is BT for? BT only works for short distances so it isn't like you would use it to control a fan that is probably not going to be near it. Maybe you can use BT to configure it? Ideally the next gen of ISY will have the polisy hardware built-in and use a single GUI to control all of it. Of course the GUI could be done regardless of the physical nature of the device.

Absolutely 100% agree that people new to ISY consistently make the same incorrect assumptions about what will trigger a program to start/restart and the ensuing unexpected outcomes. I don't think this is a problem with the language, it is a problem with preconceived notions. I understand JAVA GUI is now in its last days. Perhaps when the new GUI interface is being developed, a "beginners mode" could be included with pop-ups or bubbles or whatever that give friendly reminders about how things are going to behave and common incorrect assumptions that result in unexpected program behavior. For example, if you include a "Wait" in your program, a bubble pops up and says "remember, the wait will terminate upon a condition in the "If" clause changing during the wait"

I had an issue with a couple of random "all on" events. This was rather surprising when your entire house turns on for seemingly no reason. This was a well known issue that to the best of my knowledge was never fully worked out. However, for whatever reason, it seems to have stopped. Not only me, but I don't see that topic on the forum any more.

Maybe try completely uninstalling java and re-installing? I do look forward to the day when UD dumps the java console.

When all else fails. . . did you try rebooting the computer?

I traded out my IR version for the ethernet version. The itach doesn't support newer wifi security protocols that my Unifi AP use. It was going to have to configure a special ssid with downgraded security just for the itach. I have found that the ethernet version works better. It is pretty close to >99% success rate now, where before it was closer to 90%. I have also bought a Harmony with the hub. That works very well and is much easier to configure. You don't need to learn the ir codes, harmony has essentially every code in the universe in its database. It is also a 2 way communication so ISY knows the status of devices controlled from the remote.

The bypass above takes it out of the circuit all together, like it isn't there at all. If your concern for bypass is manual shut off only, then leaving your current switch in the loop is all that is needed. If you want ability to manually shut off and manually turn it on, then leave both your current switch in the loop and add the switch above. So throwing the switch shown above makes it just like you have it now with the ability to flip your other switch on/off and have it behave the same.

I like that. Very reasonably priced and high capacity. The OP could just leave the manual switch as is and put this device elsewhere on the circuit having both manual cut-off as well as an automated/remote one.

specs say "1hp motor 120vac only". I'm not sure what that means for a 240vac motor except I suppose you just can't use it for that. Not exactly sure what electrical reason there is for a 240vac motor of any size being off the board when other 240vac (or 277vac) loads are OK. But if that switch directly switches power to your well pump, I'm thinking you don't have a very big well pump. My pump has a 40amp 240vac dedicated breaker with the only switching aside from the circuit breaker is the pump controller. The pump controller has low voltage control connections on it to allow for external control. A multimeter answers your voltage question real quick. With the switch off, measure from each of the two connections on the switch to ground. If they are both 120vac, then you have a 240v hookup. If only one is 120vac and the other is 0, then you have 120vac. Also, if one wire is white and the other a color (black usually), then it should be 120vac, though it doesn't rule out someone using improper wire colors.

If you have a multimeter with amp measuring capacity, measure the volts and amps at the switch in your house that you have pictured. Probably, as was mentioned, the switch is not powering the pump but rather a control relay. Unless your pump is really small.

I don't understand why there are two commands then in your program above? Cool and off. If it is a toggle, then it is just one command. And what does being "on" mean? Does it mean the thing is running, blowing cold air regardless of the temp? Or does it mean that the unit is now cycling on/off as per the temperature it is detecting and the temp it is set to? You might also find out if whatever this cooling unit we are controlling here has IR codes that are dedicated "cool" and "off" rather than toggle. This is common, for example, with some tv's. The remote control has a power button that toggles it on/off, but if you go online you can often times download dedicated "on" and "off" commands.

None of this makes much sense. You have two different commands, but you say they do the same thing. .. toggle it? How/why are there two different commands if they are both the same command? What AC unit are you controlling here and what thermostat? You really should get a thermostat that works like a thermostat is supposed to work rather than try this work around. I really don't see this working no matter what since I assume when it is "on" it will still cycle off when it makes temp, which will cause the watts to drop even though it is "on". Or are you using ISY as the thermostat? Where ISY is input the actual temp and outputs an on/off command? I highly recommend against that.

OK, so this is fine then. I am able to manage these portal accounts, I just didn't click through enough menus to find it. So at this point the only issue is that they will get an email about the account renewal, correct? If I add them to my account, and list the church as the "preferred isy" for them, will they have any access to my personal ISY at all? Thanks.

They can simply ignore these license renewals, yes? The license is for the isy, not the user account, correct? This isn't an issue since the two people are not rogue or anything. But, this is very odd to allow multiple completely independent accounts to access and control the same device. I would suggest that you eliminate this capacity as it can easily get very messy. When I first go the portal I assumed that everyone would get access the same way I did and had them follow the procedure. Or at least have the ability to sever ties to a portal account from someone logged in to ISY locally. If they went into their own account and deleted that ISY, would that take care of things?