apostolakisl

This appears to be what is needed. Though I'm not 100% sure since the specs here are . . . well . . . what specs? But it looks like you take your standard triac (Insteon) dimmer and run the load wire into this device. Then this device controls your 0-10v based on the dimming level of the triac side. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Converter-from-Triac-dimmer-output-to-0-10V-dimmer-signal-or-PWM-VDC-dimmer-/272911268235 EDIT: Found better literature (and price) http://digitallighting.com/animationfolder/specs/manuals/DT-AN10-PWM.pdf EDIT 2: And a better price https://www.idealstar.top/dtan10pwm-vac-triac-dimmer-to-010v-analog-signal-pwm-dimmer-converter-p-10006.html

I suppose you could apply negative 10v to the pos 10v output to get a 0, and anything between 0 and -10 for other values. But if I damaged it, that would be very bad. I'm going to stick with the design which is to bleed down the voltage by sinking some current to ground through a variable resistor . . . or do nothing at all. And yes, the entire series of fixtures is on a single driver with a single controller (dimmer).

The drivers/transformers for the lights are in the attic. The switch is in a normal single gang box.

In the thread I started about this I linked to a pdf file that describes it quite nicely. It works very much like an alarm system zone. The panel produces the voltage for the zone. The alarm panel reports a voltage then on the zone, not because the voltage was sourced from the target, but rather the target either left it alone or reduced it by shunting some or all to ground. The order is as follows. 1) The device itself has a transformer producing 10v dc 2) Next in line is a resistor 3) Next in line is a voltage meter 4) Next in line is a variable resistor (your dimmer switch) that reduces that voltage by running it through a variable resistor bleeding off some or all of the volts to ground. 5) The device dims itself internally based on the measured voltage. The voltage itself pushes out milliamps of current, that current is only a signal, it does not run power the light. EDIT: They don't even do 1 mA. My reading would indicate about .15mA.

I can't speak for sure to this heater you have, but . . . The 0-10v dimming of lighting is not accomplished by generating a 0-10v potential and presenting it to the device. Rather, the device generates the 10v output (current limited to very minimal) and the controller uses variable resistance to drop that voltage. With resistance to 0, voltage drops to 0, at infinity, voltage is 10. In short, you need ISY to control a potentiometer.

It just occurred to me, how does making it a node change any sort of access fee that would be involved for getting the weather data? I don't really know exactly where the weather data comes from or how it is billed. Is there a single one time charge for access that UD incurs with each subscriber?

Did you mean to say Elk also should become a NODE?

I think it makes a lot of sense to have the weather module be a node rather than a module. I suppose you might say the same about the Elk module. Though if in the process of becoming a node it stops become a module, would that not require re-writing any programs associated with it?

When I first started setting up the portal, I didn't fill out one of the fields listed as optional, I think it is the "company" field. It appears that this is the field that then labels the portal account on the ISY admin consoles portal tab. I have gone back to see if I can populate those fields, but I can't find any way to edit any of that. Now that I am adding a number of accounts for different people it has become a problem with the portal defaulting to "none03", "none04", etc. Is it possible to go back and label these accounts? I can't find anywhere to do it. I'd rather not delete and start over.

Good to hear. This only leaves the issue of putting units into the variable for things like temp and humidity (and perhaps other things that I haven't tested). In my opinion, including the units by default is a bad idea. It is easy to append the units to a unit-less value when desired, but difficult to remove the units when not desired.

Thanks for the info, but this particular situation just doesn't warrant that much effort. I think I'm going to put a switchlinc on it and screw the dimming part.

Not a bad thought.

By trim, you mean the led bank? I always thought it was a little odd that the on/off switch had all the intermediate led positions. But I also can see why you would want it to look the same as a dimmer switch. What to do?

I have a feeling you are right. My research would indicate the way these work is 1) You toggle on power 2) The transformer/ballast powers up and outputs 10v through a fixed resistor limiting current to a few milliamps. 3) A variable resistor in the dimmer (I suppose an old fashioned rheostat) sinks that current to ground resulting in a voltage drop proportional to the resistance applied. With the resistor at infinity, the voltage stays 10 and the lights are dimmed to the max. With the resistor at 0 ohms and drops the voltage to 0 and the lights ramp up to full.

If Insteon just didn't discontinue the purpose made version. I'm sure the demand was very low, but still, they already did the r and d on it.

No. Like I said, it is a $50k system. I'm not going to do that.

This is a very fancy high end led set of fixtures that lights up a dome in my church. 0-10v is used in fluorescent lights, but also leds and theatrical lighting. The lights are staying . . . they cost like $50k. EDIT: This article pretty much tells you what I'm dealing with. https://www.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/257121/fresco/fresco-dxt/-/media/products/Fresco/257121/document/0-10VDC-Best-Practice_pdf.pdf

I am trying to use Insteon on an led fixture that uses a 0-10v controller. Any ideas on how to get this to work with Insteon? At this point I'm thinking that my only option would be to use an Insteon on/off switch on the main power supply and continue to use the 0-10v dimmer for control of brightness. EDIT: It seems the Insteon has discontinued the product I need. Not sure what sort of reasonable workaround exists.

I do believe that it shows that exact error twice often. I just logged in right now 5 times and I got an error every time. Once I got a single instance of the DHCP error, and 4 times I get "request failed" (the request failed error is one I haven't seen before just now). Also, it sometimes gets stuck on "starting subscription" at which point I just have to close it down and start over. All 5 logins I just did seem to work fine once I closed out the error. I don't believe I ever log in and don't get an error on this ISY (I have two). The other ISY I typically login via the local LAN, so I don't have as much experience as to what the portal does for it.

Did you upgrade firmware? Did you try admin/admin?

Thanks for that. Didn't know about notify me.

Generally speaking, an alarm system is required by local code to be monitored by a central station. If you don't have a siren, perhaps not, since no one will ever know if it goes off. But there are plenty of times when I am not going to get a text or an email immediately. Or perhaps I'm being held at gunpoint and the intruder isn't keen on me calling the police. I think that central station is worth it for the $120/year.

I've used google and amazon with ISY just for voice control. Like mwester I am not aware of anything else it can do. I also am not a huge fan of everything going to the cloud. Unfortunately, no one seems to be making any speech recognition product that keeps it all local. My voice control so far includes lights and my whole house audio system. Unfortunately, my whole house system does not have any integration features, so I have had to use a global cache and teach it all the IR commands and then use ISY network resources to trigger those.

Every time I login it says "error - no network connection [[DHCP] state=RENEW]" Despite the error message, it all seems to work.

No doubt, hard wiring into a real UL listed security panel is the gold standard. If linked to ISY, you can both have a proper security panel call to central station as well as an ISY initiated action (ie email, text). That is what I have done. I get notifications by text as well as getting a call from central station.