apostolakisl

I had this problem, though it didn't self correct. It was related to the fact that I only had scenes entered into google home. Scenes don't have a status so the portal would not routinely update google and google (I guess) would time out the connection. I added a couple devices the google home that I use often and it hasn't happened since.

Those are about the cheapest I think they have ever sold most of those products. It works out to $25/switch for your 2477D/S's. In the past I have gotten them for $27 with the 20% off of the already discounted multi-pack prices. If you are thinking of upgrading an older single band system, this would be a good time to do it. EDIT: Just noticed my wife's "E-bates" account popping up claiming another 2% off. Add 2% more for a cash back credit card, now your down to $24/ea. EDIT: The on/off and dimmer wall wart modules are also $25 in this sale, but I have seen that price often.

Usually they do. Maybe 20% off.

Benoit, Will this have any impact on how things like Agave work, since Agave also links to the preferred ISY? Of course with Agave we don't need multi-ISY use since there is no Agave account issue accessing two different portal accounts.

Would that apply to google also?

Well most people don't care/want/need to control every device via Amazon. But c'est la vie.

Nahhh. It is hardly any different then setting up Amazon commands. Just use the portal to create a webhook just the same as creating an Amazon command. Then copy and paste the webhook into ISY network resource. Then write a program that runs the network resource from the "then" clause and a second webhook to turn the light off goes in the "else" clause. Now ISY 1 has a program that runs a light on/off in ISY 2. So Amazon controlling ISY 1 now has control of ISY 2 via the webhook "relay".

I agree, it does seem like having multiple ISY's on the same account serves limited functionality to anything other than the "preferred". If you don't have a ton of stuff, you can relay commands from one ISY to the other. You would create webhooks for the secondary ISY and then have the primary ISY send the webhook. You would write programs that trigger a network resource with the webhook.

I wouldn't be surprised if this is an issue with the google and amazon api. I think they are both two way communication (Google is for sure). IFTTT is not limited to the preferred ISY, so you could run it through IFTTT/portal. But last I checked, all IFTTT commands via Echo had to start with the word "trigger". Or get a second Amazon account. It would be nice, however, if the portal could map it all out to multiple ISY's. But, your situations is probably only a very small percentage of their customers and they may prefer putting their resources towards things that have a higher customer usage.

Is the problem here that you only have one Amazon account with echo's in two locations and want them to control the ISY at the respective location?

My portal account was never linked to my google family account. EDIT: I did get it all working again by unlinking the Home from my family google account and linking it to my personal one (the one that portal is linked to). It took my a little effort to find the menu to "unlink" and then there were a bunch of steps to re-link to my personal account. No way in the world I could have unlinked it and then re-linked it by accident for it to have moved out of my personal account. So I'm just very confused on how it was originally linked up with portal and then not linked to portal. Is there some way for it to have been linked to my personal google account (and thus portal) while having been also linked to my family account? Like some sort of secondary account link?

There is no default because portal isn't a google product and doesn't need to be linked to any google account at all. Home by default must be linked to a google account. The point here is that my google home and portal were linked, then they weren't, for no reason that I can see.

I'm confused as to what happened. 1) My ISY portal is linked to my personal gmail account. All of the ISY actions are there and working when I use my google assistant on my phone. 2) My google home up until a few days ago worked with all of those ISY created voice commands just the same. Except not the "routines". 3) I can't recall what I linked my google home to when I first bought it over a year ago. I may have linked it to my "family" gmail account, but if so, then how why did it ever work with my ISY commands? So either my ISY commands were somehow working on both accounts (until a few days ago), or the google home switched accounts for ? reasons. I am suspecting that creating "routines" may have something to do with it.

Can someone tell me what the heck happened here? My google home (according to my phone app) is listed as being in someone elses home. Whose? I don't know. I haven't done anything recently except add some routines. My google home now no longer responds to any of the voice commands I set up with ISY. My phone does. What the heck! How do I get this moved back to my home? EDIT: I figured out that it moved to another account owned by me. But I don't know how it got switched.

To sum this up. Then/Else clauses are ATOMIC. Basically, that means they are indivisible (based on the original understanding of an atom as being non-divisible and hence named atomic after the Greek word for indivisible.). So, once a "then" or "else" starts, it finishes. The exception to this is a "wait" or "repeat" which creates multiple "atoms" within the "then" or "else". So it only will finish the current "atom" should the program be re-triggered.

If you mean getting scenes added in the portal to show up in a room on your phone, you can't label them as scenes. From the portal, pick the "scene" tab at the top to add a scene, however, you need to select under "google home category" something other than "scene". Yes, I know, it makes no sense to even be able to pick something other than "scene" when adding a scene, but you can and should if you want it to show up as a button on your phone.

So far so good since I did as you suggested.

I could not be happier with my two tp link devices. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI plus fiber https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B00804KR5Q/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0053H51I6&pd_rd_r=7cf8e8b0-dd41-11e8-bf93-dbc3134547a0&pd_rd_w=McBoB&pd_rd_wg=w9T3l&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=RDWA8MJYEX8V5S1HWKB5&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=RDWA8MJYEX8V5S1HWKB5&th=1 The fiber in yard is in conduit and survived a backhoe incident even though the conduit got torn to shreds (there was slack inside the buildings). OF NOTE: You must plug a gigabit switch/device at each end. 100mbs does not sync.

This probably doesn't violate code, but it is dangerous. The copper in the cat5 wire is connecting the two buildings grounding systems since your PLMs are powered by each building. Even if you chop off the PLM grounding pin, the neutral side is still tied to ground at the box. You are inviting a lightening strike disaster here. I can't really quantify the risk to life, but the risk to your electronics is very high. I ground lightening strike in the area is likely to fry your PLMs and maybe more. Plus it sounds like you have more than 1 cat5(6) with the other(s) doing internet? I can tell you some well meaning people at my church ran cat 5 between the buildings and about 2 years later a lightening strike did thousands in damage to our sound system. The sound system was connected to the LAN and you could follow the path that the power took, frying the boards most directly connected and sparing others. I replaced the copper cat 5 with fiber. That works great for IP since fiber to cat5 converters at each end are only $50 each and fiber is cheap. I would highly recommend you do that instead of using copper for your internet. As far as the RS-232, I don't know about converting that to fiber each end. Also, 600 feet is a pretty long run for copper, but I guess it is working. In general . . .NEVER connect two separate buildings with a conductor. Lastly, it is great to know you can do the PLM to PLM thing like that. Thanks for sharing that. EDIT: I don't know if fuses would be fast enough, but maybe someone does know if you put a fast blow fuse on each piece of the cat5, maybe that would arrest a lightening strike. Or maybe someone makes a purpose built device for that.

Routines works great. You can put all the Star Trek phrases in there you want.

Thanks. "turn on" and "turn off" just about cover it. Time to start playing with "routines". I think I can do a lot more with those, but haven't tried yet.

Is there a comprehensive list of words that you can use to trigger universal devices (isy) from your google home following "ok google". Right now I'm only aware of a few like "turn on <device name>"

I remember something like that I encountered a while back and reported as a bug. Please report it as a bug where Michel will see it.

I doubt using 12awg instead of 14 is going to do anything but cost you more. Since you only need one watt of power either way. Perhaps someone who knows more about Insteon PLC could chime in and say if 12awg has any better PLC comm than 14. It has been my assumption that the wire gauge has little to do with the PLC strength.

I put a 10ma fuse on the hot wire and didn't connect ground. A dual band range extender doesn't require a ground wire and with no load connected draws less than 1 watt (or in other words less than 10ma). But I did not terminate the wire out in the yard like mwester suggested, I went into the building and put an Insteon range extender right there. What I did (in my opinion) is quite safe, but would not pass code. What he said could pass code but only if you hard wired the dual band device. If you just wired a 15amp receptacle, you would need ~ 2awg wire to pass code at that distance and that would cost mucho dinaro. If you hard wire the device in, you only need a wire gauge sufficient to prevent voltage drop at the specific amp draw of the hard wired device. And a lamplinc or range extender draws so few amps that 14 gauge wire would be way more than sufficient. If smaller wire existed, you could use it, but I don't think such wire exists. In all likelihood, you are not going to care about code and you are just going to know that when you install a 15 amp receptacle in your outdoor sealed up box, that you aren't going to plug anything into it except your dual band device. You might consider zip-tieing the dual band device to the single outlet receptacle and include a warning note to use it for nothing else (just in case you die and the next yahoo who owns the property gets any ideas). In addition to the grounding issues mwester mentioned, it is also a huge risk to all your electronics to connect grounds on two different buildings. For example, a lightening strike anywhere nearby will raise a static charge in the earth that drops exponentially as you radiate away from the impact strike. That could create a big voltage difference between the grounds in the two buildings and electrons would be like "woooohoooo we can use this nice copper wire to neutralize that difference instead of this crappy conducting dirt" and they would merrily fly down that wire en mass causing all kinds of havoc. Proper grounding is a quite a subject, but basically you only want a single point of ground on any system. There are very elaborate exceptions to that, but no homeowner would ever do those.