apostolakisl

The PLM is 120vac 60hz . . . if you can get one. They are not currently being produced. The official reason is chip shortages. Not sure what would happen if you used a voltage adapter

That is the sure fire way to do it. Or "hide" your plm. You could plug it into a signal blocker, Or use a UPS, unplug the UPS from the house and cover the PLM with a metal electrical box or some other metal enclosure to attenuate radio. Usually a UPS will block power line communications even if plugged in, but you might as well unplug it just to be sure. The radio attenuation is still going to be a question mark. Trouble with trying to just have your house be "quiet" by not using any insteon devices can be sabotaged by things like a program running or a motion detector. Possibly even a heartbeat from a battery device.

Any Insteon traffic while doing a PLM links check will mess it up. You almost have to take the PLM to a location that has no Insteon devices. At this point, your pre-check is almost certainly wrong, so any comparison now is impossible. More importantly, are you able to link the devices that you were having issues with before?

Might consider doing a factory reset on the PLM and then restore it. Reason being that orphan links are common. You could have dozens of them. I have done that to my PLM a couple times over the years.

The first clue was it didn't dim the light despite my non-powered passive rheostat style dimmer working fine. I put a volt meter with nothing connected to the Insteon device and I read voltages between 0 and 10 depending on how I set the dim level. I called smarthome and read the literature and found no provision for changing the type of dimmer. You could change attributes of the other outputs on it, but not the dimmer. If you determine otherwise, please let me know.

I believe I own one of these. Assuming Insteon ever only made one 10v dimmer, then I must. I would have to crawl into the attic to check the model. Anyway, it is a 10v sourcing dimmer. Which is not what I need. Currently I am just using it as on/off. It also has some other functions, I forget, perhaps it has some low voltage relays in it? Anyway, I have tried to see about adapting it to convert the 10v sourcing into sinking. There is a thread on here where we talk about that. I have not yet tried it.

No. Most led ballasts output 10v and the dimmer is supposed to sink the voltage, not produce the voltage. The leviton device does convert your standard 120v dimmed output to 0-10v signal. But it is not creating the 10v, it is sinking the 10v through a potentiometer, infinite resistance =10v, closed circuit = 0v, and everything between.

I wasn't aware of this Leviton device. Sadly it is $200. It appears to be a sinking 10v dimmer, which is what I need. I bought an Insteon 10v dimmer only to discover it is a 10v sourcing dimmer. Very few fixtures I have seen use 10v sourcing, including mine. I also looked at the qubino, but I'm not certain it would work.

OK, well I don't really know how these bulbs work. I do know that some bulbs use a mixture of led's of different colors to make white light. The cree ceiling trophers I have at work, if you look at the top side of them you'll see little light beams of rgb popping through cracks and my cree ceiling cans at home, when you dim them, if you look directly at them you'll see hints of separate separate colored light sources glowing. I can't complain about those cree ceiling trophers, I have ones that are on 24/7 and are nearly 10 years old. You can't tell the difference between those and the ones right next to them that are only on 40 hours per week. Most of your "Edison" style led bulbs use uv leds and phosphorous coatings to produce "white" light. It works pretty well, especially for candelabra style bulbs and has a descent cri since it isn't an led that makes the light but rather phosphorous. Similar to a fluorescent light.

color temperature ie "warm" and color rendering are different things. You can't appreciate cri from a photograph. A lot of people won't realize it until you alternate between a good cri and a bad cri and see how much different things look. For example, I had some poor cri bulbs in one hallway and good cri bulbs in a different hallway. Both hallways had the same paint, but the one hallway looked ghastly. I started to look into repainting, but later realized it was the same paint. So I changed the bulbs instead. And of course it depends on the exact wavelength "holes" that a particular bulb has and the color of the object you are illuminating. So two bulbs with a identical cri and temperature won't necessarily look the same. Or a particular bulb may look very nice in one situation, and bad in another. A CRI of 100 is a perfectly flat spectrum and accurately displays the color of any object.

I assume they use some mix of the rgb leds to create white light, perhaps in combination with some white leds. I say this because I have seen some that will change the color temperature of their "white" light per your choice. That is almost certainly done by adding in some red or blue. Regardless, when in "white" light mode, they will have a cri but none seems to be listed. I must assume this lack of info is because the info is bad. Perhaps I am not finding the info, but if it were some really good number, I can't imagine it wouldn't be front and center. Cri really does make a difference when looking at people's faces (and lots of other things, but in the living room, it is faces that matter).

I'm pretty hesitant about rgb bulbs and any bulb that does not specify cri. Personally, I don't really ever want to have anything but regular light and I like my light to not make people look sick. I looked up these bulbs and they don't say anything about cri, which perhaps is because the color isn't fixed. But probably the cri is not very good or they would brag on it. I have been to homes of people who have these, and they get all giddy when they show me how they can change the color, then, once the party trick is over, the lights get set back to "white" for the rest of the night. It has been my experience that straight up high quality led's with long life and good cri cost a bit more, so I'm thinking at this price and with all the other costs of the wifi and whatnot, the actual light part of the light isn't very good.

Yes, I lost my favorites. I had to do them all over again. After it did sync, I clicked "test local network" and that was successful. I don't have time right now to mess with it anymore. EDIT: Also, I would suggest an option to have the app open into favorites directly.

@Javi None of the issues you speak of exist. I did not have a / at the end of the IP. I have not changed the firmware since the last sync. In fact, I changed nothing between something like 4 attempts to sync and then finally it sync'd.

@Javi after I added local network, it had to resync. Why? And now it is failing to sync saying I have an incomplete firmware upgrade. It syncs just fine using the portal. After several attempts, it finally finished the sync. But several times failed for various reasons.

You need to understand how ISY works. The items in an "if" clause are triggers as well as conditions. Whenever any of the items in an "if" clause happen, the program "triggers". At that point, if the program is currently running, it terminates where it is and starts over from scratch. It will then evaluate the entirety of the "if" clause and the result will either be true or false. ISY programs only are running at the instant of a trigger, or, should the "then/else" clause contain waits or repeats, it will continue running while those are valid. IF time is 8am . . . .8am will be a trigger and will be true only at that instant. This program can never be true except at that instant. If status is 25% . . . any changes in status will be a trigger, true if it is 25%, otherwise false If control is switched on . . . pushing the "on" side of a paddle is the trigger, no other action on the paddle does anything. Similar to "if time is 8am", it is an instantaneous event that is only true at the instant ISY "hears" from the switch that someone hit the on paddle. A program can contain lots of items, when any one of those items triggers, the entire "if" clause is evaluated as either true or false based on the entirety of the conditions. IF time is 8am . . . . trigger is 8am, it will only be true at that instant If time is from 8am to 10am. . . . two triggers, 8am and 10am, but, It will be true if any other trigger happens between 8 and 10 If time is 8am and control x is switched on . .. .never works both a single time event and a control event are "instantaneously" true. So they would never happen at the exact same time. Your original question seemed to say you had outside bounds that you wanted your lights to turn on. So, you can set those outside bounds by saying From x time to y time. Now the program will never be true outside of those times. Now add, in other conditions, understand, these other conditions will also be triggers. and time is from sunrise minus 20 minutes to y time. Now you have 3 triggers, x time, y time and sunrise minus 20. All 3 will trigger the program. x time and sunrise minus 20 are "true" conditions, and y time is a "false" condition. For a program to be true, all conditions must be true at time of the trigger. The program is not constantly running. Only runs at trigger events. From 8am to 10am does not mean the program is running from 8am to 10am, it only runs at 8am and 10am. Realize that if something else turns the light off after it has been turned on (like you manually turn it off), it will stay off. This program only runs at those 3 trigger times. Similarly, if you turn the light on outside of those conditions, it will stay on.

@Javi Enjoying the continued new features on UD Mobile. I am using the "command" function for favorites and very much like it. My concern is that it is easy to "butt dial" or "fat finger" a command. My suggestion would be to allow for "2 step" activation where you click once then it says "are you sure" and you click again. Perhaps this is an option when you set it up. I am also a bit confused on using this. To use a command favorite, I set up a regular favorite first, then add the command function. I am a little confused about this in that the original favorite and associated node doesn't seem to necessarily be tied to the ultimate command. Am I missing something?

If your PC has eventghost running on it, you can use an ISY network command to trigger a macro on eventghost and that can run a python script that executes a shutdown. I would suggest having the PC on the same LAN as ISY to avoid any port forwarding/security concerns.

@FarmerGeek It appears that your program doesn't work because the door that is violated is then restored prior to 10 minutes. This re-triggers the program and is now false and the "else" clause is empty. If you moved your "wait" and everything after it to the "else" clause it would probably work as you intend, though I'm not 100% sure on that since I don't fully understand the intent. It is easy to see what is happening by simply watching the status of the program in the program tree in ISY console while you violate and then restore the zone. You will see the program go from inactive (half red or half green . . . in your case half red), to solid green (running then) when the zone is violated. It will stay this way as long as the zone is violated or until 10 minutes expires (at which time it will turn half green if the zone is left violated). As soon as you restore the zone, the solid green (indicating the wait is running) will turn half red (indicating the program just evaluated to false and terminated. If you put the wait etc in the else, the wait won't start until you restore the zone, at which point it will turn solid red for 10 minutes and then half red (unless you violate the zone again prior to 10 minutes at which point the process starts over.

I have found that searching the forum is very difficult. I have on several occasions tried to find my own posts where I knew I answered a question and struggled to find it using the forum's own search function. I often have better luck doing a google search to find something on this forum as opposed to using the forum's own search function.

I agree you wouldn't want them all listed out on the home page. As it is, the home page is kind of long. A folder like structure where you drill down seems logical. Only "nodeservers" title would be listed, then you click on that to see all the individual nodeservers. Not sure why a forum needs to have every title listed on the home page.

Not sure I agree. So what if there are 500 sub topics? That is like the fact that there are >1 billion websites out there. You only visit the ones you want and the rest being there is no skin off your back. The alternative would be a single stream of discussion that bounces around from one thing to another. I suppose you could tag posts, but that relies on the author going to the trouble to do that. I have seen forums that do it that way and before you can hit the "submit" button you have to put at least one tag. I do agree that there needs to be a mechanism to prevent what is happening to this thread. These last posts have zero to do with the topic. Until AI comes along that lives up to the "I", you need an "HI" to actually read everything and keep it in order.

Did the "wait" used to work? Typically, when people say the "wait" isn't working, it is because the program starts over because of a condition being met within the "if".

I get that banner message on and off even though the user/pass is correct and polyglot is connected to ISY. Michel seems to know about it but hasn't spoke to why it happens or when it might be fixed. Now if your Polyglot is not connecting to ISY, then that would be something else.

before restoring them you can do a "show device links table", then hit compare to see if ISY has it the same. If they are the same, then you have orphan links and a simple restore device will just put the same links back on. In that case, you need to factory reset the devices, delete them from ISY, then start over from scratch.