apostolakisl

I can only ask if you have another program or something outside of ISY that sends a "run then" command to this program. The "if" clause here is only true at the instant when someone clicks the KPL button.

normally toggle. Meaning click changes the state from its current state (on or off) to the other state (off or on). Non-toggle means every click is an an on click, or, every click is an off click, depends on which you choose when setting it up.

sounds like a kpl problem, not a program problem. Do the other kpl buttons work? Have you tried a factory reset on the kpl and restore? I have an old kpl that does stuff like that sometimes. I should buy a new one, but I can always seem to get it to come back to life with a factory reset or two.

If it is a garage on the inside, I would definitely drill through. Even if your handwork isn't the prettiest, it won't much matter in a garage. Getting it out of the sun and rain has got to help. I assume your garage is not conditioned, but if it is attached to your house, it will likely have buffered heat swings.

He indicated it was mounted below the outdoor circuit box and mostly shaded. If it wee getting hit by rain, I'm sure it would have died very quickly. It shouldn't be so hard to block sun and rain on a wall that is allowed to be ugly (I've never seen a circuit breaker box mounted somewhere visible. . . but I suppose. But here is another option. What is on the other side of the wall it is mounted? Is it indoor conditioned space? Yes? Great. Drill a hole directly through the back wall of the outdoor j-box and all the way into the house. Splice 18 inches of wire onto the wires in the outdoor j-box and push it through to the inside where you install an "old-work" j-box. Now, your done. Switch is indoors.

Long story short, as long as the box/switch is not in direct sunlight or hit by precipitation, I don't think there should be an issue. Like I said, I have two switches in an outbuilding and I used to have a switch in my chicken coup. None exposed directly either to sun or precipitation, but all subject to 100 plus degrees quite often and none failed. All 2477D. Also, at the low end, they all experienced temps into the upper 20's and the full swings of outdoor humidity which will hit 90 percent on summer mornings. 85/85 temp/humidity is real common in August/September around sunrise. This particular switch that the OP had die may also have just been a switch that died. Those happen even in perfectly controlled environments.

As Larry said, metal feels hotter not because it is hotter but because it conducts better. I taught my kids with a little exercise. I asked them to tell me which objects in our kitchen counter were hotter and which were cooler. They said the towel was hotter, the granite the coldest, some papers a bit warmer. We then pointed the thermometer at them and of course they were all 73 degrees. The granite just is efficient at conducting. So, 2 points. 1) The switch heats up things 2) The sun heats up things The metal box will be better at conducting heat both into and out of the switch as compared to plastic. If you can keep the box in the shade, then it will not be conducting the heat of direct sunlight in, but rather conducting the heat of the switch out. This benefit is most pronounced at higher ambient temps. The higher the ambient temp, the better conductor you need to get the heat out of the switch. In summary, a well ventilated and shaded metal box with good thermal contact between it and the switch heat sink (the ears), the cooler the switch will be.

I feel bad for you metal guys, rf attentuation must be a bitch.

Are they mounted in a metal box? A metal box that is in the shade would be a better heat sink for the switch than a plastic one. Might even consider some heat transfer paste where the ears are screwed down. Might also drill some ventilation holes provided you can keep rain off the box.. You could also consider the high wattage Insteon switches which have better heat sinks even though you aren't dealing with high watts. In my case, I have 2 Insteon switches mounted side by side in a plastic gang box in an outbuiliding that is virtually never heated or cooled (it has hvac but I only turn it on when I'm working in there). Summers here have plenty of sunny 100-107 degree days. Not sure how hot the garage gets inside, probably not the full 100+ degrees since it does have thermal mass that buffers it a bit. These switches control outdoor lights that ISY turns on every night for a few hours. These are led lights, so not very many watts to heat things up. I am pretty sure these particular switches have been in place ever since I pulled all of my 2476D's and replaced them with 2477D's. The 76 ones never died out there and so for the 77 ones have not either. Between those two switches, there has been an Insteon switch there for 10 years. I want to say roughly 5 years each. In summary, Insteon switches are capable of being in a hot environment so your switch might just have been a weak one or maybe the particular run of whatever component in your switch wasn't as good, I don't know.

I'm sure the heat hasn't helped the switch. But I live in Texas and we have 2 plus months of 100 plus degree heat. I have several Insteon switches in an un-conditioned out-building which have survived many years now. I even had a small workbench fire that melted the paddle on one of them. Now having said this, I'm sure I'll have them die tomorrow. But my point is that the heat isn't necessarily a death sentence.

@madcodger Couple things. 1) You have two buildings hooked up with copper. This is asking for trouble. Unless they are pretty close together and share the same electric service, they are going to each have their own grounds and any lightening strikes nearby will cause electrons to flow through your data cabling as the ground difference equalizes. This will tend to let the magic smoke out. It is very tricky and expensive to have proper protection. I would suggest using fiber to connect the two buildings for data and put that worry to rest. Or, as I have just been researching, using a couple of Ubiquiti LiteBeam 5ac Gen2 devices. If you are only a few hundred feet apart you should get 450mbs. 2) As far as the alarm panel. I use DSC at my office and use IOGuy's node server (slightly different than the polyglot node but fundamentally is the same). I have multiple partitions on that panel and it all works well as if it were multiple independent alarms. The DSC is like an order of magnitude cheaper than Elk which is what I have at home. DSC is a lot more of headache to program as you pretty much have to program it through the keypad with all sorts of cryptic code and limited feedback. Also, DSC logic isn't as flexible as Elk. I have a water valve that shuts off at the office when both partitions are armed after a 45 minute delay as well as when any of the water sensors are tripped. It took me some creative thinking along with a relay to get this to work letting ISY doing the logic. Anyway, all the zones show up on ISY and I can control each partition from ISY. If you wanted two DSC panels it is not a problem to have two separate DSC nodes on ISY, or like I did, one DSC node with two partitions.

"triac" spell check I'm sure. Of course that doesn't explain it not responding to Insteon commands.

Did you try a factory reset? Factory reset first, then try local control. If that works, restore from ISY. However, my experience is that if the switch doesn't work when controlled manually at the switch, it is dead. If after a factory reset and restore it still doesn't work, you might try another factory reset and bench test it. Could be an issue with your light fixtures or splices, but I doubt it. And no, the only outdoor rated Insteon switch is the plug-in dongle thing. I have had Insteon switches outdoors and protected and not had them die, but certainly the wide temp swings and humidity issues outside are tough on electronics. I do not believe I have ever had a 2477D fail though. Lots of the older 2476D's failed, but never a 2477, and I have lots of them.

I don't think it is likely to work well trying to have two ISY's sync to one Elk. Probably be easier to have 1 ISY and 1 Elk. If you can bridge your two buildings together for security, I don't see why you can't bridge the two buildings for ISY. I bridged two buildings together for my church. I basically ran a long extension cord through a buried conduit and put an Insteon hub at the end of the cord. The hub accepts PLC from the "extension cord" and broadcasts radio into building two which propagates then through building two. I fused the "extension cord" with a 100ma fuse and there is no connection between the two electrical systems. Basically, I am just moving a building 1 radio into building 2. You may ask why a hub, well, I got one as part of some package deal and it is dual band so I just plugged it in. It works very well, seems to have a stronger radio than most Insteon devices. It does nothing else, just a PLC <----> radio interface.

The "hack" shown isn't shorting the wires between the GDO and the wall remote, it is shorting the two leads that go to the tactile button. Pushing the tac switch or using a dry contact as shown in the hack are electrically equivalent. So I don't think the hack above would do anything except exactly what pushing the button does.

This is how I control my GDO, not because the opener has some proprietary com protocol but rather because I didn't think to run wires while the house was under construction and I wanted my Elk to have control. So I soldered to one of the radio remotes just like the button above and mounted it next to my elk panel. 10 years and I still haven't changed the battery. I don't understand what Teken is referring to when he says the smart display resetting. Whatever happens when someone physically pushes that button should be the same thing that happens when your io linc momentarily closes the circuit. As far as the GDO opener is concerned, someone just pushed the button and I would think pushing the button would not cause havoc. I also don't quite understand why some fancy comm protocol is there at all. Are we dealing with a wall mounted GDO button? Or is this thing a lot more than a button? Trying to figure out why the wall mounted button would need to ever be anything more than a simple contact closure. Nearest guess at this point is that the gdo is wifi enabled and they want to let people program it without a ladder, so they moved all that logic to the wall button? But then they also wanted people to use the same old 2-wires that would have already been there, so they came up with some rs-485 protocol comm?

Might see if Michel would add it to the wiki.

Glad to help. I haven't used this model and hope it meets specs. The one I have is quite old, big and bulky, isn't sold anymore, and uses the standard lead-acid batteries which I have replaced at least once. This li-ion model looks great by the numbers. Should be able to keep an ISY running for hours. I believe ISY uses about 7 watts, so 98wh theoretically is more than 12 hours. Not sure if the li-ion batteries are replaceable, at least without soldering. The reviews have a consistent complaint about 12v output being less than 12v, but ISY shouldn't care with it's wide v range.

Is the program that represents the correct rainfall also running true, or only this one?

I would consider a 12v UPS. Standard UPS goes from AC to DC, back to AC, then your wall wart goes back to DC. 12V UPS goes AC to DC then done. It also means you don't need a new wall wart. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP/?coliid=I3TR56MLH2SZLS&colid=26A7L23SNB5ML&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

@ldb Did you run it as admin? Right click, "run as administrator". Also, this isn't DOS.

sounds like it has a gpio header. Of course UDI would have to write code to access those io's. And you would need to open the box and plug into the header (or solder to it, not sure if it is pinned). It also has I2C.

Flap is a purpose built flap, not anything "rigged". It is installed exactly where and how it is intended, only the addition of the reed contact is different. At any rate, it has been installed for I think 2 years. About a month ago I had to pull the drier out to do some cleaning and unhooked the pipe. The flap was 100% free of lint. However, the flap on the outside of the house was far from clean. I think, perhaps, the difference is that the outside flap is restricted to only open about an inch (by design) whereas this flap opens to a full 90 degrees.

Unfortunately, only older driers and very basic models have buzzers anymore. Most of your modern feature driers have a computer controlled speaker of some sort that plays a song or makes some other sort of not-so-obnoxious sound. Plus, why take your drier apart when all you need to do is take the vent off attach a flapper, and reinstall the vent. Zero chance of damaging anything, shocking yourself, setting anything on fire, or voiding your warranty. The only other way I would recommend is to use a current sensor on the power cord. Driers or usually sold without a cord and it is intended to be attached by the end-user, so no warranty voiding here. You can attach the current sensor inside the j-box on the back of the drier where the two legs of 240 are separate wires. If you have a 120 drier (gas), you can use a synchrolinc, if you can manage to find one.

That was me. Here is the thread where I include a shopping list and video demo. Master Drier Copy - [ID 0163][Parent 00F7] (this program enables the notification program only with 2 continuous minutes of operation) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 0 Then Wait 2 minutes Enable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Master Drier - [ID 00C6][Parent 00F7][Not Enabled][Run At Startup] (Now that drier has been on for 2 minutes straigt, this sends and email as soon as the drier turns off, then deactivates itself) If 'WebControl8 / Input8' Status is 1 Then Send Notification to 'ellen gmail' content 'Master Dryer Done' Wait 1 second Disable Program 'Master Drier' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')