apostolakisl

I think one of the two I have fixed still had the led on, or at least partially lit. I still think you have a 99% chance that the caps are bad.

Replace the capacitors, 99% chance it comes back to life.

In short. There is only way connecting that black wire to neutral could work. It must be the neutral leaving the load (the light). Anything else would have popped the circuit breaker. The problem could likely be fixed quite easily by opening the box at the light and splicing the correct wires together.

check the box where the actual light is. It sounds like you are running power backwards somewhere, in on white and out on black.

2 wire insteon only works with an incandescent and "leaks" a little power through the load wire to the light bulb to power the switch itself. It is like setting the dimmer on .01% or something. The filament will be ever so slightly warmed up, but it won't light.

If white wasn't neutral, it should have been taped. But again, it doesn't matter, it should be used as a neutral now for you Insteon setup.

It doesn't matter what it used to be. The white needs to be neutral now, you must have a neutral for Insteon. At every box bundle any and all whites together. You don't have a 3 way switch anymore, you don't need to use white for anything else. If white was not neutral before, it was simply a wire between the boxes, it is not a wire going back to the house service panel. Once you bundle the whites (and only whites) together at every box it will be neutral everywhere.

In a standard 3-way, red is alternately a hot wire. The only difference between what I wrote and using black only as the hot is that you are using the black traveler wire to carry hot to box 2 instead of the red. Since black is both the color of one of the travelers and the wire to the load, you have to figure out which is which should you choose to use it as the hot. This is not difficult, but it is an added step which isn't necessary. If you have a tone generator is is super easy. If you have an ohm meter you can do it by hooking up one of the blacks to ground and going to the other box and seeing if the black at the other box is shorted to ground (of course you turn the power off to do this).

If you follow the procedure I outlined it will work. You only need to know which is your hot. Everything else defaults into place based solely on color. It doesn't matter what 3-way configuration it was to start with. White's will be neutral at all boxes doing it this way.

Well it should always happen, it is code, and a pretty simple and reasonable and safety conscious one at that. But either way, you would never need to splice a white to a red. And when switching to Insteon, your white doesn't need to be re-purposed as a hot, it can be used as neutral. And I'm pretty sure you can't wire it that way in new construction since like a really long time. Perhaps as an add on 3-way after the fact it is still OK. But new construction requires a neutral at every box for probably well over a decade, maybe 20 years?

The white wires are always neutral. It is a big time code violation to do it otherwise. So unless this was a DIY wiring job by somehow who seriously didn't know what they were doing, your whites are neutral, except for where you connected red to white, that is a code violation and you should undo that splice. Yes, there are two travelers in a 3 way, but the red will for sure is a traveler. The blacks can be a traveler, hot or load. The way I told you to wire it, you only need to identify the hot, the others will by default end up connecting as needed.

First off, red and white should never be spliced together. Steps: 1) Find the hot. - turn off breaker - disconnect every black wire from every other black wire at each box. - turn on breaker - use volt meter to find which of the blacks is hot by touching one lead to each black and the other to a ground or neutral wire - turn off breaker 2) For simplicity, use the red traveler wire as your hot at box without native hot. Splice red to hot wire. Now red at box 2 is hot. 3) Connect red at box without native hot to hot on insteon switch. 4) Connect red/black spliced wires to hot on insteon swith at hot box. 5) One of your remaining unconnected blacks is the load wire. You don't need to figure out which it is. Just splice all the currently unused blacks together and splice one of the two insteon switches to it at either box (not both of them, just one). Cap them all off. 6) Splice your Insteon Neutrals to whites at each box 7) Splice your Insteon grounds to house ground at each box Breaker back on.

I have two of the Elk WSV's. They are built like a brick S*** house. One at my office and one at home. They spin in an endless circle for on/off/on/off. They have cams with set screws on a post that trigger micro-switches to know the position. These are adjustable if somehow they are not stopping at the proper locations. There is an indicator on it so you can see what position it is in at any given time. You can put a wrench on it and turn it manually if the motor should fail or there is a power issue. Everything I say here is based on my experience with the original Elk WSV, not the newer version.

I am pretty sure you are correct on this. Just like electrical, you only own what is after the meter.

After the irrigation. When you go out of town, I assume you will want your house water off but still wan't your grass to not die. I suppose you could program it to open while irrigating, but then you might just be irrigating the inside of your house for a couple hours in addition to your lawn.

I'm not sure what this series of programs is doing besides setting a variable to the current temp.

An always on PC could ping your phone once/minute then run a rest command to ISY when it changes state. You'd need to write scripts to do this which might take a while to figure out. Probably you could get a Rasberry Pi to do it also. Or you could go back to Android and use all the wonderful features of Tasker once again.

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Networking:Tasker

I use tasker to set a variable on my isy when it is logged into my home wifi. I don't think ISY has a ping function, but could be wrong.

They do make dimmable 12v transformers. The only question is whether they will work with such a tiny amp draw. The ones I am familiar with are intended for 12v halogen lights and thus are designed for a lot more watts than the draw of your leds.

This is what I have at my office. https://forwardthinking.honeywell.com/new/50-9420.pdf I have two of these controlling two heat pumps with 3 zones on each (one zone not used). It does allow for multi stages of heat and cool, but my heat pumps are single stage. Though do have aux heat.

I have used two brands. Rodgers White Honeywell Both used stock thermostats with standard thermostat wiring. They just call for cool or heat and the zone controller does the rest. EDIT: or fan of course too. There is no "I need cool really bad or I need just a little cool"

When you say you have a "white" controller at the air handler, do you mean a Rodgers-White brand, or do you mean that is a box that is the color white? Rodgers-White zone controllers I have had follow the standard universal wiring scheme and accept any thermostat that also follows that standard. If the colors are confusing you, check the wires at the controller to know what wire is performing what function. There isn't really any fancy magic with a zone controller. It just accepts the instruction from the thermostat the same as the furnace would directly, except it also opens/closes the appropriate damper. The only other thing is that if one zone calls for heat and another calls for cool, it will put the one on hold until the other is finished.

If your PLM is a bit older than 2 years, you are likely to find that it is only temporarily fixed. This is something that happens to PLM's that are on the brink.

Is your PLM a bit over 2 years old? Is the green led on? If the answer is yes and no, you likely have a dead plm. See the PLM thread on this site for how to fix, or buy a new one. The power going on and off is probably not the problem, except that perhaps a small surge from that might have been the straw that broke it's already nearly broken back.