apostolakisl

No. When you do "replace with" it gives the new device all the attributes of the old device, including the name, and the old device is gone, along with the former name of the new device. Personally, I do it like Stusviews above and not name the new device at all so it just shows up as an insteon id.

Sounds like your email isn't configured properly.

Just finished linking my contraption to ISY. I decided to use a CAI webcontrol board because I had one that I wasn't using. It works great. START TSTNE IP8 RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET That is the code. I used IP8 because it is next to the 5v output on the ISY connector and I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/201490541284?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITDupont connectors to terminate wires and a double one like that plugs in catching the 5v and IP8. URL1 sends a REST command to ISY setting a state variable which triggers an ISY program. EDIT: Changed the code because the drier has a wrinkle prevention fluff that lasts about 12 seconds. So I added a 15 second (15000 ms) non-blocking delay. Now if I could figure out how to get the washer to have a simple open/close circuit for the webcontrol to monitor, then I could kill two birds with 1 stone. START SET VAR1 IP8 TSTNE VAR1[15000] RAM1 CALLSUB TELLISY END TELLISY: WEBSET URL1 IP8 SET RAM1 IP8 RET

If it were me I would use a cai webcontrol board with a 1-wire temp probe and glue the temp sensor to the back of the oven. The cai can be quickly programmed to post the temp to an ISY variable and you could write a program on ISY to notify you at some particular temp or if it stays above some temp for some period of time. Of course this is not the temp inside the oven, but I am quite certain that if the oven is on, the surface of the back of the oven would be quite warm.

The only other thought is if the scene is not complex (only one load device), you might consider something like Scene on wait some time set 'the load switch' 50% wait some time set 'the load switch' 100% wait some time . . . set scene off

I think you might be better served by having 2 scenes for each of the 2 lighting situations (a full bright scene and a dimmed scene). Your program would then read more or less like oberkc's in post 10.

You tube links.

The packaging says nothing about gas/electric driers. But as you mentioned, the point is moot since you would just use the synchrolinc on a gas drier.

OK, very simple and cheap solution installed and functioning. 1) buy one of these for $6 http://www.lowes.com/pd_52690-85334-VTL0024___?productId=3126471&pl=1&Ntt=drier+vent+draft+blocker 2) buy an alarm system contact. I used one of these http://www.homesecuritystore.com/winn-br-1015because I already had it. The standard 3/8 probably works just as well. (EDIT: This is the exact brand/model I used http://www.grisk.com/images/product_pdfs/recessed_magnetic/50rs_12_series_miniature.pdf) 3) epoxy the magnet part on the flap on the downwind (CORRECTION, UPWIND) side at the halfway point (about 1/2 inch below the hinge) pointing toward the edge. 4) epoxy the reed part on the outside in line with the magnet (up against the downwind side of the flange pointing at the magnet) 5) install this contraption to the vent opening in the wall behind your drier (pointing the proper direction of course). 6) connect the hose from drier to the draft blocker 7) connect the wires from the reed switch to your io linc Total cost not including io linc about $10. Total time to install, about 20 minutes (not including waiting for glue to dry) All wires are inside Also you get the draft blocking bonus Doesn't use any non-approved drier vent parts Pearls By attaching the magnet on the flap fairly close to the hinge, it adds very little rotational force to the flapper, so it won't interfere with the proper weighting of the flap. You could put the magnet and reed at the bottom, but it would add more rotational force. The reed/magnet combo I used was a left over from when I installed my alarm and is a really small magnet and reed, but I think the standard 3/8 one would work as well.

I would make a quick check of code as Larry suggested. But, I think it is OK. I base this on the fact that not only does code allow it in my office, they require it. They require at least one light in each major hallway to be switchless and thus on 24/7 (unless you shut of the breaker).

It wouldn't be any big deal to do it with that style either. The rare earth magnets are very small and light weight. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Earth-Magnet-Security-Alarm-Replacement-Ademco-Countersunk-Hole-Contact-DSC-/160754913222 Attach the magnet to the bottom edge of one of the three flaps and position the reed switch to the frame at the side. My bet is you could hide the reed switch inside the frame in one of the bottom corners pointing out toward the flap where you attach the magnet.

The flapper I refer to is the standard one that is typical for wall mounted drier outlet vents on the outside of the house. I don't mean that you should add a new flapper. The one that is supposed to keep outside air from entering the drier when it is off. Attach a rare earth magnet to the flapper (epoxy should do the trick) and put the read switch below it. There would be no affect on safety at all. The only trick here is that this is all outside and you will need to poke a wire through to inside since IO lincs are not water proof. Or I suppose you could make a small water proof enclosure for an io linc and leave it all outside. like this http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Dryer-Vent-Hood-4-Aluminum-Vent-Hood-98p475.htm#.VvR2MvsrI7k

Yeah, I guess you didn't read my post. There are already quite a few devices including the one I linked.

Thanks to Javier with the help on the python scripts. I have this all working great. Phone via Tasker sets a state variable to 1 (home) or 0 (away) on ISY. I use wifi connected to home as the tasker trigger. ISY via a program that triggers on change in that variable to post to my PC running EventGhost that I am home or away. EventGhost via a python script (not the ones here) runs an Auto Hot Key script that opens internet explorer, IE is set to home page of google voice settings, the ahk script checks to see if my cell phone is being copied to my home, if it should be changed, then it changes it, then it closes internet explorer. I have myself logged into google voice so no user/pass is needed since it is held in a cookie. I have a nearly identical script on firefox that does the same thing for my wife and keeps her logged in. I use chrome for my regular browsing which is why i use ie and firefox for this. The long and short of it is that when I am home (or I guess I should say when my cell phone is home), the home phones ring when someone calls my cell phone and when not at home it doesn't. Same for my wife.

I would still use a magnetic reed switch. It requires no pressure to activate, is even cheaper yet, and has no risk of obstructing air flow either from preventing the flapper function or from a dedicated sail that could hang up on lint or something.

There are systems out there that use algorithms to identify water consumption that fits the pattern of a leak and shut the water off. This isn't perfect since it would not stop a major water line rupture (like a hose burst on your washer) for a while, but at least it wouldn't run for hours. It also is good at finding trickle leaks or things like a running toilet. http://www.flologic.com/ That is just one. There are others.

You could attach that to the flapper instead of an alarm contactor. Again, wire to an IO linc except the logic would be opposite. Probably you don't even need to drill a hole to get the wire inside. Odds are you could poke a wooden shishkabob skewer through the same hole the vent goes through right next to it. Likely it is sealed by some spray foam insulation that the skewer would pass right through.

Using the flapper on the vent outside with a magnetic alarm contactor would effectively be a sail switch. Assuming you have a straight shot out your house behind the drier, you would just need to drill an 1/8 inch hole right through from outside to inside next to the vent and your wire to the alarm contactor would now be inside the house sitting behind the drier where you could connect it to an IO linc. circuit open=drier running, circuit closed=drier off

And that is how you monitor a drier.

Any chance you can post an example of a REST command as a python script in EG?

It happened again. The ISY plugin for eventghost does refer to the connection as a "subscription". It reported "Insteon.Subscription - Closed 192.168.1.9:80" in the EG log. The person who wrote the plugin would have been responsible for calling it a subscription, and from the standpoint of EG, I think it might be reasonable to call it a subscription, but not vice-versa. I don't know why it is doing this. If I restart Eventghost, it works fine. But this plugin seems way to unstable to use for this purpose. I am hoping to get the network resource method described elsewhere to work, however, Trouble is, I can't get any content to show in Event ghost. I probably need some forward slashes or something in the body to get it to work, but I just don't know what. At present, EG just reports that it received a "broadcast" when I run the resource, but there is no content. EDIT: OK, I just forget to hit the "save" at the bottom of the network resource page after hitting "save" on the event itself. Now it shows whatever I type in the body section. Errrrrgggg. I find this needing to hit save multiple times to actually have something save frustrating. Can't hitting "save" on the actual resource actually save it to ISY instead of just my local java window?

Seems you got a good deal. You can make your own current sensor by taking a strand of fine wire and wrapping one of the 2 hot wires maybe 30 times or so and then wrapping the same wire around a screw about 30 times and then splicing the two ends of that wire together to make an electrical loop. You'll turn the screw into an electro magnet. The magnet can then be placed next to a magnetic alarm contact. When the drier is on, it will power the magnet and close the alarm contactor circuit. On my drier, you could do it without unhooking anything since the outer sheath of insulation doesn't make it all the way into the drier. At the back of the drier there is about an inch where the 4 separate wires are exposed. The guy from Lowe's installed the drier, so not sure if he was supposed to secure the wire inside the drier. Anyway, no need to mess with it, it is fine.

I didn't say to do that. I said to put an alarm contactor on the dryer vent flapper door. Opening your drier and playing with the wires would void your warranty. I suppose you could manage to keep it clean and undo it if needed. But I think the alarm contact on the drier vent would work very well and pose no hazard.

they used to tie the ground and neutral together. Bad idea to do that, but it works.

I'm pretty sure that code calls for all driers to have 4 prong outlets for quite a few years now.