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That was it! I clicked the Save Changes button in the Program Details tab and they all saved and all seem to be back to normal. Many thanks for your help. -Tom

Yes, I noticed that "not saved" in the status field but didn't know what it meant. I didn't see anything in the update instructions on re-saving anything. Or I missed that if it was in there.. Definitely (100% sure) the UI and firmware are the same version. There is no yellow in the summary. I checked for that immediately after the update while disabling a few programs that got re-enabled in the update. -Tom PS: I guess the last part of this instruction could be interpreted as re-save: "Please ensure your device nodes and programs are correct; in some cases you may need to update them."

I did clear the cache after the update and did verify UI and firmware match. I will try your suggestion of saving each program again this eve. Thanks, -Tom

Yes, I see that it is now that I checked my Programs! These programs are enabled so not sure why they aren't working...

Im having some strange SwitchLinc behaviors after my update to 5.3.4. I have 2 SwitchLincs (call them east and west) that operates my entry lights. A physical single tap on either one turns on/of the lights (this is working). A double tap on the west one turned on/off my driveway lights before the update, now not working. Not sure if double-tap ever worked on the east one as I wouldn't normally do it from that location. But in any case that isn't working there either if it did. Also, when I go into the admin onsole and use software to control the switches, east works to turn on/off entry lights. But west goes on (I hear relay and leds indicate on) but the lights don't actually come on, and the east switch leds don't change state (which they use to do to indicate on). At first I thought it was just this one set of switches, but I also have one in my lower level that double tap would turn on lights in an outbuilding. That too seems to not be working. Is there a way in the ISY to tell if this behavior is programmed? Or to re-program it? I think I programmed these switches manually when I installed them so many years ago, but I would not sear to that, too long ago. Oh, and I ran Restore Devices in the console, but that didn't help the situation. -Tom

Ok, thanks to both of you. I don't really need more than one user, just habit. I must have changed the admin user name to one of my own last time. -Tom

Geddy, Thanks that was it! One other question. It appears to have removed my userid. Did it always have 9 users you were able to define? I don't recall that before. Also, when I enter my name and set a password, it prompts me if I want to change the password for my new user. I say yes and the prompt goes away. But it doesn't seem to be creating that user. If I go look at user1 again the fields are blank and it doesn't let me log in with the values I just set. I can, of course, get back in with Admin and my newly set admin password... -Tom

I updated to 5.3.4 followig the instructions on the 5.3.4 Current Release thread as well as advice in the thread below. The update seemed to go fine but when I cleared my java cash, follow the link for the new admin console and try to log in it says Failed Retry Authenticating My Lighting. I know I am entering the correct userid and password. What can I do? -Tom

Interesting. I have two versions of the leak sensors: 2852-222 v.41 and 2852-222 v.00 I left all 4 of them in the "wet on" mode after testing and all of them reset themselves back to "dry on" ("wet off") by themselves. I didn't reset them or do anything other than setting them back down on the floor... -Tom

Yes, Insteon leak sensors. Thanks! Out of curiosity, if I leave the mode in the wet position, it will clear itself at some point yes? -Tom

I recently upgraded my ISY to 4.9. Unbeknownst to me the previous version (which I had been running for a very long time) default smtp server apparently didn’t work and I was not getting notifications. Once I upgraded to 4.9 I got notifications of missed heartbeats on 4 of my leak sensors. I figured it was batteries since they have been in place for many years. I replaced the batteries yesterday afternoon and figured that would solve the issue. It didn’t. I got missed heartbeats again this morning. Checked contacts, etc when changing batteries so I’m pretty sure all that is fine. My question is what is a quick and easy way to see if the leak sensors are still working? -Tom

4.9 was indeed uneventful. Will do the next step when I have time to troubleshoot any issues (just in case any arise). Thanks again, -Tom

Many thanks for the reply! I do not have any Z-wave and don't see a Z-wave menu item. I updated to the 994 when they first came out and were discontinuing the older hardware. I don't think Z-wave was an option at the time, or I didn't want to use it so didn't get that option anyway. So do I go to 5.3.4 or to 5.0.16C? I don't think I am using "Adjust scene" in any of my programs, but I did copy all the programs so I have them and will take a look. -Tom

My ISY994 is on 4.8.0 and it's been a long while since I've done anything with it. It is telling me that 4.9.0 is available to upgrade to. Should I do that? I see that 5.3.4 (I think) is out and just wondering if I should just skip 4.9.0 and go to 5.x? I see that upgrading to 5.x will require some tweaking of programs and things so I will put it off until I have time to fully understand the steps and be able to fix things that break. I don't have z-wave and am not really doing anything new but I usually don't like to get too far behind the latest release. -Tom

Not that this is your issue, but I just wanted to emphasize what tmorse305 said: "new brand of LED light bulb". I have a long saga which I won't go into here but be aware that many LED light bulbs are incredibly noisy both in external radio frequency interference as well as power line induced noise. I spent weeks debugging an odd problem with remote garage door openers (even replacing a garage door control module) that I eventually discovered, using a software defined radio turned into frequency analyzer, that new LED light bulbs I had installed were generating a huge amount of noise in exactly the frequency range of the remote openers. In my case it was external RF, but I put a scope on the power line and it was there as well. After testing a number of different brand bulbs I ended up using Cree bulbs sold at Home Depot (which were cheaper anyway) and replacing many expensive Sylvania and Philips bulbs I had in my house/garage. That was about 4 years ago so perhaps those brands are better now, but I learned my lesson! If I have Insteon or RF issues new light bulbs are the first place I look now.

I have a Lamplinc that seems to work fine when I command it On/Off or push the button on the side of it. I also have it controlled by a keypad button that also turns it on/off just fine. I have it in a Scene with several other LampLincs to control some LED Christmas lights. I have a program that turns the scene on at dusk and off at midnight. I've noticed that when shut off by the program this one Lamplinc doesn't turn the LEDs all the way off. If I go into the ISY and command the Lamplinc On and then back Off it shuts off all the way. I thought maybe it had something to with using Set Scene Off in the program so last night I changed the program to command each individual Lamplinc and turned them on/off one at a time with 5 seconds between them just to see what happened. Nothing changed. They all cycled off except for this one that was very slightly on. I launched the ISY interface and looked at the status to see if it showed that it was partially on but it wasn't. Status showed as Off and the slider showed it all the way at zero yet the LEDs were still glowing ever so slightly. A manual On/Off and it's fixed. Any ideas why this might be happening? By the way, all the Lamplincs were purchased at the same time (years ago) so are all the same version, etc. The software I am running is the last 4.8 variant (4.8.0 I think). The load on this particular Lamplinc may be a tiny bit higher than the others, but that is probably splitting hairs. The other lamplincs have a single string of small led xmas lights on them. This one has 3-4 strings of lights. And again, manual off works every single time, programmed off fails every single time. -Tom

Ah yes sorry. It is the countdown keypad timer thing that I have. I do have a Timerlinc in a box but haven't actually used that...

I have 4 TimerLincs in my house. This one that died has been a thorn in my side for many years. I have had to reset it (pull out the little switch and push and hold for reset) many times over the years. But it has always come back to life after doing that. What I would see is that it would just stop sending commands to the ISY. If you pushed a button it would light up and act as if it worked (timer progressively counted down and lit each button) but it wasn't triggering anything. After a reset it would come back to life. I thought that is what it was doing again and I was tired of it so rather than reset it again I ordered a new regular Switchlinc On/OFF switch to replace it. It was a long time before I got to replacing it. When I finally got around to installing the SwictchLinc I discovered the reason the TimerLinc wasn't working, it was completely fried. The inside had clearly caught fire, there were char marks in the electrical box and the plastic housing was melted. I lost a neutral line into my house a while ago and that event wreaked havoc in my house. I lost many devices (10's of thousands of dollars in damage). This was one I thing hadn't checked... -Tom

I was going to ask next the question (you answered) regarding "not switched off". Thanks for the clarification on these issues! -Tom

Agreed, I think we are saying the same thing. I was just saying the Ecobee itself is only time control, the ISY can do more than that as you have pointed out... -Tom

It is purely time (and occupancy) control. No control based on climate or humidity. You can manually change the time settings in each season but the ISY can do better than that ?

Thanks for everyone's responses. Simple is good (maybe better), but if I wanted simple I probably wouldn't have the ISY to begin with So, I am going to play around with implementing kclenden's program. I can't let that effort go to waste! A question...I am currently just running the first program I posted. When I turn the switch on the fan comes on. When I turn it off the fan turns off. If it's left on it runs for an hour and shuts off. jec6613 said I should be turning off the scene, not the switch, yet it appears to be working (I think). If the switch is a controller for the scene then why would one need to turn off the scene rather than the switch? I have Ecobee Smart thermostats that the control my HVAC system. The Ecobee's have ACC terminals and are intended to control a ERV/HRV or Humidifier. I was contemplating just having the Ecobee control the HRV (turns out I have an ERV but whatever). They are not currently wired to do so. I wondered if the Ecobees use humidity levels to control the HRV after reading larryllix's response, so I called Ecobee. Turns out they only use timer settings. You set percent of time to run when occupied or unoccupied and it cycles the terminals. So, no magic there. I might as well just use the ISY to do it. There is a Low and High Humidity Alert on the Ecobee so if the HRV would run too long I will get an alert from the Ecobee and can determine the cause of the problem then. Anyway, thanks again and I will let you know (kclenden) how the program works. May get around to setting it up this weekend. -Tom

I have a bathroom fan that is piped into the house HRV system. When the bath fan is turned on it actually turns on the HRV which pulls air out of the bathroom (as well as any other return air vents). I had this on a (now obsolete) TimerLinc Countdown switch which died. I am replacing that with a simple On/Off SwitchLinc. The SwitchLinc will trigger an IOLinc on the airhandler to call for the HRV to come on. My HVAC contractor advises me that the HRV should be run a percentage of time per hour regardless of the fan being on or off. They say 20-50% per hour. I didn't do this before, it only came on when the bathroom fan was used. So, I want to set up a program to trigger the IOLinc to be on every hour for a given amount of time, let's say 15 minutes per hour. But, if someone turns on the bathroom fan switch I want to also turn on the iOLinc (if off) and start a timer. After 1 hour (if the switch is not turned off) it should turn the switch off (and tell the IOLinc to turn off). So, essentially the fan switch in the bathroom is just a 1 hour timer on the fan regardless of what else is happening. I'm not sure how to do the percentage time program.. Also, if someone goes in the bathroom and leaves the fan switch on, I don't want the percentage time program to run as well because the fan will have already run for an hour, however if someone turns the fan on for a couple minutes and then shuts it off I still want the percentage time program to run... Oh, and I have a scene, BATHFANCONTROL that has the SwitchLinc as controller and IOLinc as responder. So I assume turning the SwitchLinc on/off in the program will cause the IOLinc to be triggered from the scene, yes? I am thinking I want one program: BATHFan-Timer: If Control 'BATH-FAN-SWITCH' is switched On Then Wait 1 hour Set 'BATH-FAN-SWITCH' Off Else No Actions And a second program: HRV-Percentage: Not sure what this program should look like...? Any suggestions? -Tom

I have a couple TimerLincs (I think that is what they were called) in a couple bathrooms to control the fans. These are linked to IOLincs which are attached to my furnaces. When someone pushes one of the timer buttons (1m, 5m, 10m, 15m, etc) the HRV on the furnace runs in high to draw moist air from the bathroom and exhaust it to the outside. These have been in place for many years. From time to time over the years for whatever reason these stop working. I can pull out the little reset tab and reset them, and/or reset the IOLincs and they work again for a time. Until they don't. Well recently one of the seems like it won't control the IOLinc no matter what I do. I am kind of fed up with messing with them. These TimerLincs aren't made anymore from what I can find. I am wondering if people just don't use timers, or if there is another solution? I am thinking maybe just putting in regular switches that will signal the IOLincs instead. Won't have the timer function but...

I finally got to the site to figure this out. I did have to follow Michel's link to push the reset button on the ISY and then re-set the password. Not sure what happened, why it changed in the first place, but all is recovered and well. Thanks to all. -Tom