
auger66
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Everything posted by auger66
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The ISY, TP-Link router, and Arris combo are all on 192.168.1.xxx. Networking issues are not my strong suit. I had to leave home for a week. I'll chase down these questions when I get back. When I figure this out, I'll post my results here. Thank you both for your suggestions.
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The Arris is a modem/router combo. Bridge mode worked great with my ancient DSL modem/router. I wish the Arris had a true bridge mode rather than IP passthrough, but AT&T likes to snoop. The firewall is a good theory. I'll try disabling it all together on the Arris when I get back in town in a week. However, of all the devices that pass through the firewall, the ISY portal is the only thing not working . . .
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All righty then . . . I had a plain ole AT&T Westell DSL modem/router in bridge mode to a Linksys and later a TP-Link router. No problem. Everything worked great. Now I have AT&T ridiculously fast fiber optic in the same location. No bridge mode, but I put it in IP passthrough to the TP-Link router. Internet works great. If I plug the ISY into the TP-Link router, my network commands (iRule sending REST commands) work fine, but I have no internet connectivity--no portal, no Echo, no Mobilinc, no emails sent. If I plug the ISY into the AT&T router (Arris BGW210-700,) reverse the above--connectivity, but local network doesn't work. Echo to Nest works either way--hmmm. I thought the portal did away with all the port forward, etc. problems. I would really rather use my own router and just use the Arris as a modem. Did a couple of searches and couldn't find anything. Any suggestions?
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Yes, understood, but thank you. Since the Autelis website is still down, I might have to come up with a plan B. Their forum is still up, though.
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Getting back to my own thread for an update. I still haven't installed anything yet. The renovation has slowed down. Somfy appears to be the easiest to integrate with the ISY. Somfy RTS operates in the 433 mHz range. Hopefully, I won't have the range problems I have in the 900 mHz range. The large size of the blinds is not a problem. I was able to get all this information on my own years ago. Now is seems like you have to go through a blind installer to get the information. I'm either going to get a Autelis Shade Control for Somfy RTS or the Universal Serial Interface for ISY. I need to look into this further to see which is better. *** I just noticed the Autelis website is offline. Hmmm . . . I hope they're still there.
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Thank you both so much! I've been swamped with the renovation itself, and I'm not even doing anything except intercepting mistakes! I couldn't tell from Somfy's website if they could handle my large blinds. Let me look into it harder, and I'll post what I find out. I'm still open to more advice until then . . . Thanks again!
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I'm moving into a new condo in the same building and leaving my ISY/Insteon system in the old one. Things have come a long way since I put my battery-powered Hunter-Douglas blinds in 13 years ago . . . Planning on setting up the same system from scratch in the new place, which is being completely renovated. I'm running AC power up to the top of the window. I don't have any z-wave, but I could certainly get it with the new ISY if it helps. I'm a little concerned about wireless range as I have a lot of interference in the 900 mHz range. The battery-powered open/close sensor has about 2' range at most. The leak detectors usually work at 8'. I have another ISY/Insteon setup in the middle of nowhere, and both of these devices have great range. So my question is if you were starting from nothing, what would you go with today--blinds, motorization system, and ISY interface? And maybe even a store recommendation? I can install them myself. I see either Somfy or Lutron will work. One problem I have already is window height. In two rooms I have 83" w by 117" h windows that I want blackout blinds in, which means it has to be one piece. Probably one big roller shade. Hunter-Douglas, for instance, has an 8' height limit with motorized. In the other room, drapes that retract to the sides--not blackout. AC power available 10' height Motor system and ISY interface? This forum is the best place for these two . . . Blinds? Vendor recommendation? An answer for any one of these questions would be great. I've been poking around online for a few hours and am having a hard time putting it all together. Thanks.
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I just set this up today. In case anyone else is interested, I used files that have been updated since the first post. I need to make some tweaks, but it works well, so far . . . Windows 8.1 (64-bit) HTPC Hue Emulator 0.2.1 https://github.com/armzilla/amazon-echo-ha-bridge/releases Echo Mapper/Configurator v12 https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=cfa7f709af4ff827&id=CFA7F709AF4FF827%21219246&ithint=folder,zip&authkey=!ACiou3KQ_rNhltQ
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I didn't replace the PLM, just the keypadlinc.
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I did the exact same thing, and had exactly the same problem. Unfortunately, I sat there and poked at my scenes and programs for a couple of hours before I looked on the forum. The only difference is the PLM restore did nothing; however, device restore fixed the problem. I hope Smarthome has fixed the power supply in these keypads. I'm tired of replacing them. Smarthome tech support denied any knowledge of a problem with the keypadlincs.
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I'm about to install my other 994i in a remote location. Is their any progress on this? Thanks.
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Maybe iRule. I use it for a Windows Media Center and ISY interface. They have a new version out that is supposed to make ISY integration easier. I haven't tried it yet, though. http://www.iruleathome.com/
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Yes, but I think you're responding to a comment I made in a different thread.
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D'oh! I meant to put that in there. ISY-994i (not Pro) running 4.02. Just upgraded two ISY-99i's. After I read the 994 networking pdf, I noticed the Pro version had a few more options. I used to just use the default settings until they stopped working one month because that account reached its send limit. I'm not sure if that still applies.
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I just got two 994i upgrades. I couldn't figure this out either.
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Switching over from Yahoo Plus, and these settings got me a "TLS negotiation failed" error message. smtp.live.com 587 TLS checked Any settings that work with outlook.com? Also, is there still a problem with hitting the email send limit with the default settings?
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The ON/OFF buttons aren't in any scenes at all. Let me look at this more. If I can't figure it out, I'll just start over with a keypadlinc factory reset. Thanks, ya'll. I just needed to know if the behavior was normal. Now that I know it's not, I'll dig deeper in to what I have done.
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No, not normal based on my experience and expectations. My experience is that all buttons operate independent of each other unless specifically configured otherwise. Is it possible that you have inadvertently configured your keypad with some type of button grouping? That was my experience, too; but I've never used this specific keypad. No groupings. I've used the ISY for all programming. Also, I've found pressing the main OFF button switches off the ABD buttons, too.
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I know there has been a lot of discussion on keypadlincs and LEDs, but I haven't seen this one. I'm putting in a new Insteon/ISY installation in a remote location. I have one of the recently discontinued non-dual band 6-button KeypadLinc Relays (2486S v.36). All buttons are in non-toggle on mode except the C button which is non-toggle off. All switches and LEDs function exactly the way I want except for one thing. When I press the main ON switch, any of the ABD buttons that are on will immediately go out. There is no delay at all so it seems to be a function of the switch. I can turn the ABD LEDs back on after the main ON is switched on. Is this normal behavior for the switch? Can it be changed? Thanks.
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There's only one circuit for the fan and light so that is the case. That's what I thought. Give the Fanlinc the fastest ON I can give it with the KPL and let the Fanlinc control the ramp rate. Thanks.
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And another somewhat related question. I want to set a two second ramp rate on the light. Where's the proper location to set the ramp rate--the Keypadlinc, Fanlinc, or both? I would think the KPL should be set to 0.1 seconds, and the FL to 2 seconds.
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There's the problem, button D should not be a member of the mutually exclusive group. Button D should be non-toggle off and linked as a controller of the FanLinc (once the ISY is updated to support it) and buttons A, B and C. I tried that, but it doesn't turn off the ABC buttons--unless the button behavior changes after it's linked to the Fanlinc. I don't see how it would, though, since the Fanlinc is a responder only. I think the closest I'm going to be able to get to what I want is to put ABCD in toggle mode in a mutually exclusive group. That way I can turn the fan and button off by pressing the lit button or the D button twice.
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I’m preparing a Keypadlinc (2486D v.40) for a Fanlinc installation. I have an ISY to program, but this installation will be stand-alone in a different location. I’m just trying to get the Keypadlinc buttons working the way I want right now. I’ll manually link the Keypadlinc to the Fanlinc if the new ISY firmware doesn’t come out by the 11th. I would like the light OFF and FAN OFF buttons to not be lit when used; i.e., when the light and fan are off, no buttons on the Keypadlinc are lit. I changed the light on/off button to non-toggle on, and it works like this naturally. The fan buttons–not so much. I changed the A, B, & C buttons to non-toggle on, and the D button to non-toggle OFF. Once I put all four buttons into a mutually-exclusive group, the D button became non-toggle on, or the light stayed on, anyway. So I put the A, B, & C buttons in a group. Now I just needed a scene to turn them off. I made a scene with the D button as the controller and the A, B, & C buttons as responders. That also made the D button stay on as a non-toggle ON. I guess the problem here is I’m trying to start a scene with an OFF command. Is this possible without an ISY program? Thanks.