auger66

Well, I can't replicate the issue, either, now. They are all reporting status just fine. Sorry for the bother. It seems like it had more to do with the location rather than Android vs iOS, but I still don't know what the issue was yesterday. Thanks

Javi, thank you for your reply. No errors during sync. Yes, the admin console shows the last status. Not talking about the blue dot--just on or off. I selected status when creating the favorite like the other devices and scenes I added. After I made the previous post, I went out and had a couple of beverages. I then realized I slightly misstated my issue. I realize battery sensors don't state their current status. What I meant to say is the app is not reflecting the last reported status or any status at all. For instance, the admin console will show the last status the leak detector sent--as dry on, or wet off, or heartbeat, etc. The app just shows a couple of -- always. This is the first time I've ever I'm handing off an ISY system to a pending new owner, and I'm trying to simplify the system with favorites and clean up details like this for the wall-mounted iPad I'm leaving. It's a lot to digest for someone that isn't familiar. I won't meet the new buyer until after we close, but I hear she's not "techie." I don't have any favorites on my separate, personal setup, but I just checked the same type of water leak detectors on my Android phone app. They reflect status accurately and immediately so the issue must be specific to the iOS app. Water leaks are a big, big issue in my high-rise building lately. I have programs that alert you to leaks, but it would be nice to see that the leak detector is showing dry on, as in, if the button on the detector was clicked to show it is "armed" again to trigger the program for a new leak. Thanks again for your effort on this native UD app.

I just put UD Mobile on an iPad. Leak sensor status doesn't show. Is there a way to directly show sensor status as a device like other devices do? I'm trying to avoid setting up a variable just look at sensor status. I'm assuming a variable would work. Thanks

If anyone needs a smoke bridge, I have one I no longer use. Just send me a message, and you can have it.

Not really; but if you log into the device with its network local IP address, a menu should come up. Maybe you can figure it out from there.

I loaded the other five ISYs with only the Portal connections (no local) tonight. I can't believe how fast the app Portal interface is. Well done. One small suggestion . . . Consider making the favorites tab specific to the ISY you selected. I can see arguments either way. I'm all in Android, but the iOS app can't come soon enough for my users. So how's that going? Thanks again.

That's a great idea. Wish I had thought of it when I set up new place. I wanted to do the same thing but didn't know how to do it.

No, Nests are wifi and Insteon is not--even very different frequencies. Above cb suggestions are a good idea. If the Nests start working, turn one cb on at a time to help isolate the problem. I have one gen 3 Nest thermostat, four gen 2 Nest smoke detectors, and all Insteon for everything else. I've never had a communication problem in my current location, or the one before with a similar setup. And I live in a dense urban area with lots of rf flying around. The one thing that may be different about mine is I never setup a Google account because I use the Polyglot Nest2 nodeserver.

Yes, after the initial fanlinc linking, it can all be done from the ISY. Just make sure your fan has an AC motor. Plus, you'll have to decide how you want to do the light since you have a wire for the fan and light. Most of these installations are done with one load wire for both.

Assuming your fan has AC motor and if you want to replace the fan switch, it's best to use a keypad and fanlinc combination. It's an expensive option, but it's the best way to go. A dimmer switch will probably just make your fan motor buzz. Your current fan switch is probably throwing out so much electrical noise right next to the dimmer switch, it's overwhelming it. The easiest solution would be to put the on/off switch back in.

I would just like to say thank you for this. I put it on my Pixel 4. I haven't customized it yet; but it works, including the RPi. ? I support five ISYs for people that all have iPhones. I look forward to the iOS version for them. Thanks again . . .

Thanks for the input. I'll be putting my commands in programs so I should be able to control the overlapping commands. Plus, there are only two. That condo is small, and the motors are in separate rooms but pretty close together. Hopefully, close enough. I have seven Somfy roller shades and curtains in my condo. The roller shade motors have better range. I'm running Polyglot on a RPi in my place. It's not nearly reliable enough to put in someone else's place. I have to go in and restart the Hue nodeserver often. Same thing with DarkSky, but I removed DarkSky as I don't need it anymore. I put a RPi restart command to run every day at 4am, but I still have to restart the Hue nodeserver once a week or so. The Sonos nodeserver seems to always work. We'll see what happens when S2 comes out in a week. The ISY is rock solid so I'll be sending the Somfy tcp commands from the ISY directly. We'll see how it works out. I was going to buy a Zwave module for the ISY and use the Somfy Zwave interface, but many here didn't think that would work.

Many thanks. I'm looking for the best super robust way forward for some new Somfy roller shades in a rental unit. All of the Somfy solutions get poor reviews (myLink, ZRTSi, URTSi II, etc.,) mostly due to range issues. I'll try myLink and network resources first and cross my fingers. And how 'bout Elon yesterday?!!! ? Well done!

Would you mind sharing the MyLink tcp commands you use for network resources? Thanks

You're calling me out for being off-topic when we just took a long stroll down Windows-memory lane? By your reaction, it sounds more like I struck a nerve, especially since I qualified my post in the first sentence. Since eKeypad is featured on UD's homepage, yes, I think UD would want to know. This thread is about an interface for ISY. I think others would want to know, too. I don't believe eKeypad is abandonware yet, but Jayson hasn't made a post in his own support forum since 2015. I knew that but decided to give eKeypad a shot, regardless. If I had only purchased the app rather than trying to hire Jayson for a service he advertises himself, I would probably would have a different opinion of eKeypad. All he had to do was say he didn't offer that service anymore. Simple.

This isn't exactly what you are talking about, but me sort of. I contacted the eKeypad developer last year to make an simple interface for an iPad in a rental unit. I've fooled around with HomeSeer and iRule extensively in the past and don't have the interest to do that again. I would rather just pay someone and tweak it as necessary. The developer was very difficult to get a reply out of. I finally did with someone's help and worked out the terms. I spent some time opening a port, sending him graphics and what I wanted. Never heard from him again, and finally gave up trying, which is too bad because I think it would have worked perfectly for what I wanted. Michel, you might want to rethink featuring them on your home page. Jayson was nice enough to talk to the one time, but he clearly isn't into eKeypad anymore.

Well, this is probably the best thing I've learned all week. I tried it, and you're right. I wish I had known this a year ago.

Yes

I have a variable to control an Alexa routine. It still works; however, . . . It has always had variable timing on the execution. It can be anywhere from 1 second, 3-6 seconds, or occasionally not at all. It's not the ISY. The variable changes instantaneously.

Did the modified keypad work? I have an Insteon traffic flickering problem i finally want to do something with. The lights that flicker on dim are in recessed lighting so I can't plug something in. It looks like lightning in my place. I've thought if the Insteon powerline transmitter/repeater could be disabled and just use rf on the problem lights, it should work. I'm wondering if that's the mod Smarthome is doing.

I've never tried that, but I assume the A key and light are part of a scene; and you are trying to adjust both the light and key. Have you tried having Alexa turn the scene on/off instead?

I set mine up a year or two ago with a Somfy URTSI II and an Autelis Shade Control for Somfy RTS. I don't have any Zwave. The Autelis is reliable and easy to integrate into the ISY with network resources. I've found the URTSI range isn't the best, but I've gotten it to work. For some reason, the roller shades have better range than the curtains. Autelis may be out of business, though. They still have a website, but all of their products are showing "out of stock." They may be still making them by request. You would have to contact them if you're interested. If you're using Zwave with your ISY, I would definitely go with the ZRTSI. It would give you a lot more placement flexibility and one less component to buy assuming no range problems.

My mistake--I misread your post. I thought you had a Samsung and had already gotten this to work. I played with this but didn't get anywhere without knowing how to populate the various fields in network resources. Above my level. Thanks, though . . .

I'm looking to send just a couple of commands (stop, off) to a Samsung commercial display (ML55E) with network resources. The display was released in 2016 so it probably would be the same as a 2017 Samsung tv. What is the protocol information in the network resources editor you used? Thanks.

I would like to know what you think. I have a fixed iPad in a rental unit that I would love to put something on as long as it's solid and not too much work. Universal Devices still features eKeyPad on their homepage, but the forum is dead on it. So I don't know what to think about eKeyPad's status or future. I've already been down the iRule road . . .