auger66

I've never tried that, but I assume the A key and light are part of a scene; and you are trying to adjust both the light and key. Have you tried having Alexa turn the scene on/off instead?

I set mine up a year or two ago with a Somfy URTSI II and an Autelis Shade Control for Somfy RTS. I don't have any Zwave. The Autelis is reliable and easy to integrate into the ISY with network resources. I've found the URTSI range isn't the best, but I've gotten it to work. For some reason, the roller shades have better range than the curtains. Autelis may be out of business, though. They still have a website, but all of their products are showing "out of stock." They may be still making them by request. You would have to contact them if you're interested. If you're using Zwave with your ISY, I would definitely go with the ZRTSI. It would give you a lot more placement flexibility and one less component to buy assuming no range problems.

My mistake--I misread your post. I thought you had a Samsung and had already gotten this to work. I played with this but didn't get anywhere without knowing how to populate the various fields in network resources. Above my level. Thanks, though . . .

I'm looking to send just a couple of commands (stop, off) to a Samsung commercial display (ML55E) with network resources. The display was released in 2016 so it probably would be the same as a 2017 Samsung tv. What is the protocol information in the network resources editor you used? Thanks.

I would like to know what you think. I have a fixed iPad in a rental unit that I would love to put something on as long as it's solid and not too much work. Universal Devices still features eKeyPad on their homepage, but the forum is dead on it. So I don't know what to think about eKeyPad's status or future. I've already been down the iRule road . . .

Or maybe putting the switch in a program and have Alexa run the program.

I know this doesn't help with the problems y'all are experiencing, but I just wanted to add my two cents on fanlincs. I have recently put in three Modern Fan Torsion fans with a light kit with fanlincs, keypadlincs, and an ISY. It all works perfectly. There's no hum at all and the led light dims unbelievably well. A long time ago, I put in a similar setup for an old Hunter Douglas fan when the fanlincs first came out. It worked great, too. I did have to RMA two version 2 fanlincs when a nearby substation blew up, but they were working great before that. The latest version is 3.1, I believe.

I'll be glad to help, but I just got off an all night flight from Africa. I plan on sleeping the rest of the day. If you pm me your number and/or email address, I'll see what I can do. Gary

You're right; the program was never triggered. But the "if" was so simple, I didn't know why. Plus, it wasn't even running with a "run then" yesterday. It was enabled. I went down today to put 5.12 on and noticed the last run time was correct so I looked at the variables. They were correct today. I poked at it yesterday but didn't change anything. So I don't know why it wasn't running yesterday but is fine today.

I took me forever to find it, too.

Alright, I wrote/copied this program to get the date without a year. I have one integer variable "scratchpad" and one state "MM.DD" variable. This is about to be a rental property so I can't do my usual trial-and-error method of programming. When I wrote it yesterday, it worked fine after a run-then right click. Today the variables are still showing yesterday's date-- 2.25 I don't see anything wrong with it, but this ISY is connected to a router without internet right now. The ISY date/time is correct using the 24-hour option. Does the ISY have to have an internet connection to grab a system variable? Thanks

Let me come back here to not really answer my own question from last year. I gave up on this issue, but before I left I decided to upgrade the router for the next person due to much faster internet connection availability. I started getting notifications after I installed the new router--Mobilinc, portal, Echo, etc. works great. So basically I changed nothing other than the router from a TP-Link to a Netgear. I put both on separate subnets after reading the replies . . . I have no explanation--just changed the router and used the same settings, and everything was fine after that.

Just starting a ver 5 ISY setup from scratch. After loading ver 5, I see you still can't specify a date range without a year. That's a little disappointing. In my old place I had to go in every year to change the year on a couple of programs. What is the latest/easiest way to use a date range without a year in ver 5? Thanks

The ISY, TP-Link router, and Arris combo are all on 192.168.1.xxx. Networking issues are not my strong suit. I had to leave home for a week. I'll chase down these questions when I get back. When I figure this out, I'll post my results here. Thank you both for your suggestions.

The Arris is a modem/router combo. Bridge mode worked great with my ancient DSL modem/router. I wish the Arris had a true bridge mode rather than IP passthrough, but AT&T likes to snoop. The firewall is a good theory. I'll try disabling it all together on the Arris when I get back in town in a week. However, of all the devices that pass through the firewall, the ISY portal is the only thing not working . . .

All righty then . . . I had a plain ole AT&T Westell DSL modem/router in bridge mode to a Linksys and later a TP-Link router. No problem. Everything worked great. Now I have AT&T ridiculously fast fiber optic in the same location. No bridge mode, but I put it in IP passthrough to the TP-Link router. Internet works great. If I plug the ISY into the TP-Link router, my network commands (iRule sending REST commands) work fine, but I have no internet connectivity--no portal, no Echo, no Mobilinc, no emails sent. If I plug the ISY into the AT&T router (Arris BGW210-700,) reverse the above--connectivity, but local network doesn't work. Echo to Nest works either way--hmmm. I thought the portal did away with all the port forward, etc. problems. I would really rather use my own router and just use the Arris as a modem. Did a couple of searches and couldn't find anything. Any suggestions?

Yes, understood, but thank you. Since the Autelis website is still down, I might have to come up with a plan B. Their forum is still up, though.

Getting back to my own thread for an update. I still haven't installed anything yet. The renovation has slowed down. Somfy appears to be the easiest to integrate with the ISY. Somfy RTS operates in the 433 mHz range. Hopefully, I won't have the range problems I have in the 900 mHz range. The large size of the blinds is not a problem. I was able to get all this information on my own years ago. Now is seems like you have to go through a blind installer to get the information. I'm either going to get a Autelis Shade Control for Somfy RTS or the Universal Serial Interface for ISY. I need to look into this further to see which is better. *** I just noticed the Autelis website is offline. Hmmm . . . I hope they're still there.

Thank you both so much! I've been swamped with the renovation itself, and I'm not even doing anything except intercepting mistakes! I couldn't tell from Somfy's website if they could handle my large blinds. Let me look into it harder, and I'll post what I find out. I'm still open to more advice until then . . . Thanks again!

I'm moving into a new condo in the same building and leaving my ISY/Insteon system in the old one. Things have come a long way since I put my battery-powered Hunter-Douglas blinds in 13 years ago . . . Planning on setting up the same system from scratch in the new place, which is being completely renovated. I'm running AC power up to the top of the window. I don't have any z-wave, but I could certainly get it with the new ISY if it helps. I'm a little concerned about wireless range as I have a lot of interference in the 900 mHz range. The battery-powered open/close sensor has about 2' range at most. The leak detectors usually work at 8'. I have another ISY/Insteon setup in the middle of nowhere, and both of these devices have great range. So my question is if you were starting from nothing, what would you go with today--blinds, motorization system, and ISY interface? And maybe even a store recommendation? I can install them myself. I see either Somfy or Lutron will work. One problem I have already is window height. In two rooms I have 83" w by 117" h windows that I want blackout blinds in, which means it has to be one piece. Probably one big roller shade. Hunter-Douglas, for instance, has an 8' height limit with motorized. In the other room, drapes that retract to the sides--not blackout. AC power available 10' height Motor system and ISY interface? This forum is the best place for these two . . . Blinds? Vendor recommendation? An answer for any one of these questions would be great. I've been poking around online for a few hours and am having a hard time putting it all together. Thanks.

Sorry. I didn't realize we were so delicate. Retreating to my safe space. Mods feel free to delete . . .

Roar!!! Just cleared all of the douches out of my two ISYs. Thanks for the email! [PICTURE REMOVED!!!}

I just set this up today. In case anyone else is interested, I used files that have been updated since the first post. I need to make some tweaks, but it works well, so far . . . Windows 8.1 (64-bit) HTPC Hue Emulator 0.2.1 https://github.com/armzilla/amazon-echo-ha-bridge/releases Echo Mapper/Configurator v12 https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=cfa7f709af4ff827&id=CFA7F709AF4FF827%21219246&ithint=folder,zip&authkey=!ACiou3KQ_rNhltQ

I didn't replace the PLM, just the keypadlinc.

I did the exact same thing, and had exactly the same problem. Unfortunately, I sat there and poked at my scenes and programs for a couple of hours before I looked on the forum. The only difference is the PLM restore did nothing; however, device restore fixed the problem. I hope Smarthome has fixed the power supply in these keypads. I'm tired of replacing them. Smarthome tech support denied any knowledge of a problem with the keypadlincs.