raymondjiii

Yes. I tried two different small flathead screwdrivers. I stuck them in the slots (the two were slightly different sized heads) and then twisted them to get them away from the body - maybe I broke the glue bond if they were glued. I was able to get one side almost free and then went to other side (short side) and that’s where I broke the tab. But I do think a small drop of clear nail polish would work. Reminds me of when I used to have to adjust the alignment of tape deck heads - get it where you want and use nail polish.

I bet a tool could be made with 4 metal endpoints like small flathead screwdrivers. You push this tool into the points and maybe just pull the unit apart. Rather than doing one corner, trying to hold, go to another corner, etc.

I tried opening it and I broke one of the four tabs. Small needle nose pliers squeezed the casing of the jack and the problem is solved. I guess a drop of nail polish on the broken tab will help. The tab didn't snap off completely but is being held there by a thin layer of plastic. I had to keep bending the cable where it plugs in and I'm sure that made matters worse. But now - solid red light while charging.

I have a unit (maybe a few) where I cannot plug the charger connector into it without having the bend the cable a little in order to get it charged. Bending the cable a bit is probably exacerbating the problem. So I'm wondering how to carefully open these units with the four clips so that maybe the connector can be crimped a little. I'm worried about breaking the four plastic tabs.

That's a pretty long guid though. (Emails do originate from alerts@universal-devices.com though)

Yes. That's what I was trying to say - I just made that change that MrBill wrote up, then hit "Test" and then I got what I got. I had no old messages from AT&T still on the device.

I just tried it...Now, what's interesting is that the text message (at least on iphone or MacOS) will show the icons for the other Email addresses on the list - that's probably a good thing. But I do not see see the text message originating from alerts@universal. Instead I see the MMS coming from <VERY long guid>@mail.universal-devices.com. Not a big deal but if I could somehow receive them from alerts@universal I'd gladly take that option.

But iPhones etc will automatically put SMS segments back together automatically - and make it look like one text message. But granted the number of messages on the wire would still be more than 1.

I'll second that. I hit the Test button on the "Settings/Groups" tab and got an immediate text message from the email to text thru AT&T. I have the "Default Settings" checked. Thank you. Text comes from 1410100173 - not sure how you were able to see that it originated from alerts@universal email though. Maybe you are managing your own smtp server.

It’s interesting that there is “no huge uproar” about this from ATT. That reminds me of “looking for huge uproar” when Insteon shut down. It took a good week to find anything and it was on crappit…I mean reddit that I first found anything at all. I think that in the land of text messages, my guess, is that “email to text” is about 0.0001% or less of all text messages. And very few people are going to care or even notice…and very few mobile carriers as well. I’d bet $ that ATT has invested “0” resources on this issue…they have no support…just a “forum”.

For what it’s worth…I discovered a panel Mount surge suppressor made by Square-D that I decided to go with that fit perfectly in this confined area. It has a smaller rating, to be expected, than the Levitons. So far no Insteon signal issues. It’s interesting though, Leviton’s install instructions talks about…using stranded 10 gauge or bigger cables, attaching it to the top 2 breakers (on one side), no sharp bends, keep cables as short as possible, do not wind any excess wire. Compare that with Square-D’s instructions:….attach in anywhere….run the cables all the way from the bottom to the top (keep them long), have to use their attached cables are solid 12 gauge. I followed Leviton’s instructions for the SquareD units (have to use their cables.) Ah, who knows. I was never a fan of Square D panels. (The OC line - not just the lower “Home” line.) I always thought a GE breaker panel was rock solid…but it seems like most contractors love the SquareD OC line. I asked my contractor if my two sub panels could be GE and he was like “sure” (no extra cost) “but SquareD is better.” That was 10 years ago. If I ever move again it’s GE panels.

All it takes is one person to mark your email as junk for the reputation to start decreasing. I work at a cancer hospital and I was amazed to see the reputation dip from people marking their cancer related appointment reminders as junk. I know there was some type of Sender Authentication that was put on our account but I forget what that was about.

I would say it is too. I would say that ATT is blocking emails from UDI - from what I can deduce.

I did a quick test: Sent an email-text message from yahoo.com and my iphone received it within seconds. I see other ATT people complaining about not receiving text messages originating from email and a few people said to contact: abuse_rbl@abuse-att.net but I would be surprised if that changes anything.

Emails get through if I send from elsewhere, yes. ATT text messages do not and that seems to be a bigger problem to solve.

I admit that I have no idea what the SMTP Settings - "default settings" actually are but...I did have programs that would successfully email me. Now, I get no emails and no text messages (sent to my my-number@txt.att.net). Anyone experience this? I could see the text messages not arriving as that seems to be a hokey thing by ATT where they constantly block incoming messages - but I'm curious from whom these messages come from when "default settings" are used? Thanks Ray

I have a sub-pannel that has close to zero space around it to properly mound anything. But the Siemens FS140 might just fit so that it's attached to the top breakers and mounted right next to the panel. No way the Leviton units will fit. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with PLC issues with the Siemens models? (The Levitons seem to give zero issues.) Thanks -Ray

Yeah, I just picked up one of the Leviton models. I wanted the top Siemens model but it sounded like the Levitons were more PLC friendly. I used to have them on each of the 3 panels at my old house (500A service). That house was a 100% PCS brand...but this one is 100% Insteon, still 3 panels but 200A service.

Checking other devices just now...I have another dimmer that goes to 20%; I don't know if that's a dual-band or not. Then I have a set of 4 dimmers for two light fixtures that are flickering slightly and a microwave that no longer heats anything. I guess this house got hit with something. Time to check the newly remodeled bathroom with 5 Insteon switches (one of which died a few weeks ago.)

Well, I'll give it shot in the coming days. I do have a drill press and a rivet set so hopefully I can get it opened. The flicker made me think capacitor. That plus the ever ending devices (all mfg's) of cheap, failing electrolytic capacitors. That's good to hear that the dual band have not failed you yet. I still have probably another 7 non-dual-band dimmers. Thanks

This one maxes out the lights at about 20% brightness with a lot of flickering - from what I see and not what is programmatically seen by the console. On/Off work, dim up and down work. Double tap top only brings it to the 20% range. Tried hard reset, no change. With the heat wave we did have a one minute power outage, which is pretty frequent where I live even without a heatwave. The UPS says the house voltage is at 110 rather than the normal 117 but I can't believe that's the issue here. Anyone seen this symptom before and maybe it can be salvaged? This is the older non dual band Insteon dimmer. My Insteon junk box is starting to build up. Thanks you, Ray

I'll try it but I can tell you that the load, which is a dimmable LED light that goes to a Panasonic bathroom fan, has been removed. I actually never had a load on this switch since the day I bought it used - so my guess is that it's toast. ISY994i does discover it and link it but trying to turn it on and off - no go.

Pulled out the tab at the bottom, let it sit for about 30s, push in and keep pushing in (don't let it slip) until the long beep stops.

I have a dimmer switch where once the power is applied (breaker turned on) it just blinks green. Eventually there will be the long beep but afterwards - the LEDs don't move - always stays lit at the bottom as if off. I have tried the hard factory reset but no change. Thanks Ray

This looks very promising - if I can just get a hold of one of those EZIO2x4's - thanks!