raymondjiii

Yeah, I just picked up one of the Leviton models. I wanted the top Siemens model but it sounded like the Levitons were more PLC friendly. I used to have them on each of the 3 panels at my old house (500A service). That house was a 100% PCS brand...but this one is 100% Insteon, still 3 panels but 200A service.

Checking other devices just now...I have another dimmer that goes to 20%; I don't know if that's a dual-band or not. Then I have a set of 4 dimmers for two light fixtures that are flickering slightly and a microwave that no longer heats anything. I guess this house got hit with something. Time to check the newly remodeled bathroom with 5 Insteon switches (one of which died a few weeks ago.)

Well, I'll give it shot in the coming days. I do have a drill press and a rivet set so hopefully I can get it opened. The flicker made me think capacitor. That plus the ever ending devices (all mfg's) of cheap, failing electrolytic capacitors. That's good to hear that the dual band have not failed you yet. I still have probably another 7 non-dual-band dimmers. Thanks

This one maxes out the lights at about 20% brightness with a lot of flickering - from what I see and not what is programmatically seen by the console. On/Off work, dim up and down work. Double tap top only brings it to the 20% range. Tried hard reset, no change. With the heat wave we did have a one minute power outage, which is pretty frequent where I live even without a heatwave. The UPS says the house voltage is at 110 rather than the normal 117 but I can't believe that's the issue here. Anyone seen this symptom before and maybe it can be salvaged? This is the older non dual band Insteon dimmer. My Insteon junk box is starting to build up. Thanks you, Ray

I'll try it but I can tell you that the load, which is a dimmable LED light that goes to a Panasonic bathroom fan, has been removed. I actually never had a load on this switch since the day I bought it used - so my guess is that it's toast. ISY994i does discover it and link it but trying to turn it on and off - no go.

Pulled out the tab at the bottom, let it sit for about 30s, push in and keep pushing in (don't let it slip) until the long beep stops.

I have a dimmer switch where once the power is applied (breaker turned on) it just blinks green. Eventually there will be the long beep but afterwards - the LEDs don't move - always stays lit at the bottom as if off. I have tried the hard factory reset but no change. Thanks Ray

This looks very promising - if I can just get a hold of one of those EZIO2x4's - thanks!

I have a need to sense the amount of light and to trigger the action when that occurs. I think the IOLink could be used on the receiving end. I know Home Depot sells a simple light sensing device for $12 but I would like something that could have a simple threshold to be set (simple potentiometer would be sufficient). Has anyone used any type of light sensing device with IOLink or On/Off micro or anything else?

Surprisingly, I cannot find a single thing about the SR version. R= Resistive load - nah, R=revised version?

Yeah, I popped out a lightbulb and put the meter probes down the holes. I’d love to go look at it closer but it’s up on the roof, gotta get the ladder out (that’s a big project on its own.) I do like the transformers that can sit directly on the ground - plastic rubber like frame. And with all of the LED bulbs now you don’t need nearly the wattage that you used to.

Damn!!!! That is a monster! It sure looks nice! I love how you can get 12V, 13V or 14V. For some reason when I measure the one I have I get 18VAC. That model sure is nice but it won't fit in the space I have for it. Thank you for your response though.

Given that I'll have ISY programs based on various events for turning on/off the exterior Insteon outlet that will power the landscape lighting transformer, I would like to purchase one has has basically nothing - maybe just a simple on/off switch. That is, no photo-sensor, no dial with on and off settings, no programmable buttons, etc. I'm looking at various mfg's models and they all have terrible reliability ratings (Intermatic, Hampton Bays, etc). Maybe I shouldn't be surprised. I have one transformer mounted under the eve of my house and that's simply powered by an Insteon On/Off switch running off an ISY program and it's been going good for 10+ years. I'm surprised that Intermatic/Malibu transformers are still available given that company no longer exists. I am not sure where the failures are in these various transformers that cause them to die - whether it's on the main power supply section or some auxiliary button panel. But maybe other people have had the same desire - a no frills landscape lighting transformer - and I would love to hear what brand/model you used. I'm looking to put lights on the other side of the house and the transformer will be plugged into an Insteon outlet in a weather appropriate box. My existing transformer for the other side of the yard - won't reach this other side (the new side). There are too many concrete things to go under, it would be a long cable run, etc. A second weather proof transformer is way easier. Thank you

https://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/emi-sh-2115a-s/-6283987144728692286/

I can't get the original relays new but I can - if I want to downgrade these to half the power rating...I can put in a EMI-SH-2115A-S with the same form factor. It would serve my use. I rarely ever use an appliance module for anything with more than 200W.

Oh damn! I didn't even see that. Yes, 115VAC coil. Wow. Yeah, I saw a couple of used ones from China on eBay but that's all I could find. I thought for sure there would be some new ones available via a Chinese seller. I can't resist trying to do a repair - even if the time, effort and $ are more than buying a "new used" one. I guess I inherited that trait from my grandfather. Thanks Brian and others - for your help with this.

So it is a V1.3 and a #2456S3. I'd like to try to replace the relay but it sounds like the replacement parts listed by PinchRoller are for the 24V units. It has the two classic electrolytic capacitors - not sure if those are worth replacing - I guess I would if I can find another relay to put in. Their tops are not bulging nor does there appear to be any obvious leakage, but I realize that's not the full proof of them still being good. Is that a capacitor on the left (burgundy color - actually a big one and a small one) The big one says 155k 250ME. It looks like a capacitor to me but I guess I'm used to seeing uF listed and volts. If I measure the resistance across the hot input to the hot output - it's basically zero ohms. Does that mean that the relay is stuck in the closed position? Thank you, Ray Oh wait a sec....the relay voltage is 30V DC. For some reason I thought it was a 120V AC relay controlling a 120V AC load. But it is a 30V DC relay and not a 24V DC I am not sure about replacement availability.

Thanks for your reply. I thought that if I hear the clicking sound, then the relay is activating and deactivating, no?

This is one of the larger type models that has Smarthome on the back. I am using various controllers for it and it does click on and off (I can hear the relay) but it never shuts off the device which is a computer monitor running at about 130 Watts. I am hoping this is a repairable item, if anyone has seen this problem before. I did swap it out with another of the same type (not sure about the Rev #'s) but the new one does work. The old one worked up to some point but now it just clicks and no shutoff of device. Thank you.

Is the RF dongle needed as well to get the signals in to the ISY?

Hey, that's pretty cool. I can't say that I've ever seen a 24VAC wall wart. I'm going to look for one. I picked up a thermostat for a few bucks.

I think I figured this out - almost. If you have the old SignalLinc installed you need to disable it before trying to link these old RemoteLinc units. I mounted my SignalLinc inside the circuit panel so I wasn't 100% sure which two breakers it was on but I had the general area (200A breaker.) With SignalLinc turned off, I take an extension cord as far outside as I can and plug in a new (or old) appliance module that has the RF capability (must already be linked.) After you manually enter the address for the RemoteLinc (RemoteLinc is already in linking mode) it finds it immediately but there is a lot of "writing" to the device as seen from the console and I still have the green icon indicating pending writes back to the device. So not out of the woods just yet but way better than before. And the SIgnalLinc is at least one issue.

I spoke too soon. I was holding Main and H buttons and the pushing in "and holding in" the set button for about 10s. The correct way is to: Pull set button out. Hold Main and H but just push the set button back in flush - do not push it in and hold it as if it was a hard reset. But do hold Main and H for 3 seconds and then release Main and H - set button should have already been released (since you never hold it in.)

So this is the switch model not the dimmer and I believe it's the older model - not the 2334 type of 6 button. I tried putting an 8 panel on it, plugged in, pull out set button 10s, hold Main and H simultaneously while pushing the set button in and holding. It still comes up as a six panel. I'm wondering if these older models cannot be swapped.

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