raymondjiii

Yeah, I just picked up one of the Leviton models. I wanted the top Siemens model but it sounded like the Levitons were more PLC friendly. I used to have them on each of the 3 panels at my old house (500A service). That house was a 100% PCS brand...but this one is 100% Insteon, still 3 panels but 200A service.

Checking other devices just now...I have another dimmer that goes to 20%; I don't know if that's a dual-band or not. Then I have a set of 4 dimmers for two light fixtures that are flickering slightly and a microwave that no longer heats anything. I guess this house got hit with something. Time to check the newly remodeled bathroom with 5 Insteon switches (one of which died a few weeks ago.)

Well, I'll give it shot in the coming days. I do have a drill press and a rivet set so hopefully I can get it opened. The flicker made me think capacitor. That plus the ever ending devices (all mfg's) of cheap, failing electrolytic capacitors. That's good to hear that the dual band have not failed you yet. I still have probably another 7 non-dual-band dimmers. Thanks

This one maxes out the lights at about 20% brightness with a lot of flickering - from what I see and not what is programmatically seen by the console. On/Off work, dim up and down work. Double tap top only brings it to the 20% range. Tried hard reset, no change. With the heat wave we did have a one minute power outage, which is pretty frequent where I live even without a heatwave. The UPS says the house voltage is at 110 rather than the normal 117 but I can't believe that's the issue here. Anyone seen this symptom before and maybe it can be salvaged? This is the older non dual band Insteon dimmer. My Insteon junk box is starting to build up. Thanks you, Ray

This looks very promising - if I can just get a hold of one of those EZIO2x4's - thanks!

I have a need to sense the amount of light and to trigger the action when that occurs. I think the IOLink could be used on the receiving end. I know Home Depot sells a simple light sensing device for $12 but I would like something that could have a simple threshold to be set (simple potentiometer would be sufficient). Has anyone used any type of light sensing device with IOLink or On/Off micro or anything else?

Surprisingly, I cannot find a single thing about the SR version. R= Resistive load - nah, R=revised version?

https://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/emi-sh-2115a-s/-6283987144728692286/

I can't get the original relays new but I can - if I want to downgrade these to half the power rating...I can put in a EMI-SH-2115A-S with the same form factor. It would serve my use. I rarely ever use an appliance module for anything with more than 200W.

Oh damn! I didn't even see that. Yes, 115VAC coil. Wow. Yeah, I saw a couple of used ones from China on eBay but that's all I could find. I thought for sure there would be some new ones available via a Chinese seller. I can't resist trying to do a repair - even if the time, effort and $ are more than buying a "new used" one. I guess I inherited that trait from my grandfather. Thanks Brian and others - for your help with this.

So it is a V1.3 and a #2456S3. I'd like to try to replace the relay but it sounds like the replacement parts listed by PinchRoller are for the 24V units. It has the two classic electrolytic capacitors - not sure if those are worth replacing - I guess I would if I can find another relay to put in. Their tops are not bulging nor does there appear to be any obvious leakage, but I realize that's not the full proof of them still being good. Is that a capacitor on the left (burgundy color - actually a big one and a small one) The big one says 155k 250ME. It looks like a capacitor to me but I guess I'm used to seeing uF listed and volts. If I measure the resistance across the hot input to the hot output - it's basically zero ohms. Does that mean that the relay is stuck in the closed position? Thank you, Ray Oh wait a sec....the relay voltage is 30V DC. For some reason I thought it was a 120V AC relay controlling a 120V AC load. But it is a 30V DC relay and not a 24V DC I am not sure about replacement availability.

Thanks for your reply. I thought that if I hear the clicking sound, then the relay is activating and deactivating, no?

This is one of the larger type models that has Smarthome on the back. I am using various controllers for it and it does click on and off (I can hear the relay) but it never shuts off the device which is a computer monitor running at about 130 Watts. I am hoping this is a repairable item, if anyone has seen this problem before. I did swap it out with another of the same type (not sure about the Rev #'s) but the new one does work. The old one worked up to some point but now it just clicks and no shutoff of device. Thank you.

Is the RF dongle needed as well to get the signals in to the ISY?

Hey, that's pretty cool. I can't say that I've ever seen a 24VAC wall wart. I'm going to look for one. I picked up a thermostat for a few bucks.

I think I figured this out - almost. If you have the old SignalLinc installed you need to disable it before trying to link these old RemoteLinc units. I mounted my SignalLinc inside the circuit panel so I wasn't 100% sure which two breakers it was on but I had the general area (200A breaker.) With SignalLinc turned off, I take an extension cord as far outside as I can and plug in a new (or old) appliance module that has the RF capability (must already be linked.) After you manually enter the address for the RemoteLinc (RemoteLinc is already in linking mode) it finds it immediately but there is a lot of "writing" to the device as seen from the console and I still have the green icon indicating pending writes back to the device. So not out of the woods just yet but way better than before. And the SIgnalLinc is at least one issue.

I spoke too soon. I was holding Main and H buttons and the pushing in "and holding in" the set button for about 10s. The correct way is to: Pull set button out. Hold Main and H but just push the set button back in flush - do not push it in and hold it as if it was a hard reset. But do hold Main and H for 3 seconds and then release Main and H - set button should have already been released (since you never hold it in.)

So this is the switch model not the dimmer and I believe it's the older model - not the 2334 type of 6 button. I tried putting an 8 panel on it, plugged in, pull out set button 10s, hold Main and H simultaneously while pushing the set button in and holding. It still comes up as a six panel. I'm wondering if these older models cannot be swapped.

Inside

But I would be quite content with getting the temperature (and humidity) data to the ISY via some temperature measuring device that does not control the heat or AC and is powered by a plug and not 24VAC....and then I could keep my Honeywell.

I was thinking of buying one. However, I really do like my Honeywell with outdoor humidity sensor. I'm relatively new to the UD world and I have not figured out all of the Node server settings yet. But I thought Polyglot was down until further notice?

The wiki is a start. Oddly, they talk about a 6 button keypadlinc but then go on to talk about buttons C, E and G which do not exist on a 6-button keypadlinc. Unfortunately, that wiki doesn't talk about the light but I'll check your video though. Thanks.

These have been sitting in their boxes for a few months. Is it preferred to use a six button or 8 button panel with these fan controllers? I'm thinking the six button panel: Fan Off/On, Fan Low, Fan Med, Fan High. Plus dim-able light. BUT...It doesn't look like the load wire on the 6 button panel can be used for the light since the light is powered by the blue fanlinc wire. And does that then make the Top On and Bottom Off buttons useless? Or is the blue wire on the Fanlinc capped off and the load wire from the keylinc panel connected directly to the fan's light load wire? Depending on the previous answer...can the four scene buttons be used for 1) Fan On/Off, 2) Fan low, 3) Fan med, 4) Fan high If this is the way to do it what happens when you have the fan running at high speed (button #4 is back-lit) and you hit that button #4 again what happens to the fan speed? I would hope nothing and would want to keep the button backlit. Not sure how that is done though. In other words I would want Scene A to be On/Off with corresponding back-light, scene b, c, d only go off if scene A is turned off or any other speed scene button is pushed. Does the ISY 994i console make this easy? I assume it does (that is, I don't have to run back and forth pushing the buttons on the fan controller for the different fan modes)? Thank you for your help!

Interesting - can you tell me which rev versions have the better feature?

I don't see any special heading to link one - maybe it's the standard linking process? I'm wondering what could be available via the programs getting events from the thermostat to trigger other devices.