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Yep - glad things are back up. Working in IT I get what it takes to have a major outage anytime, let alone a holiday. But, tongue in cheek, let's just say - AUTOEXTEND.

I saw a RATDGO forum over at Home Assistant. You might find more help there.

What "Span" size did you use to get 3 wide? I can't seem to get 3 icons to one row.

Does BSD have a cron tab? Set up a weekly reboot from the OS.

I believe the way the Portal and all components work you don't ever truly have to worry about this - you can use DHCP. The portal knows your Eisy by Mac address and how to find your home network. There is magic that allows the portal to connect. I'll call it magic, because I don't fully know what protocols are used and how it allows the traffic into your home network. Maybe someone will clarify that for me too. What I can note and help with is how to get a static IP address for the Eisy if you prefer the static. I used to do that by hardcoding the IP in my ISY and turning off DHCP, but I've learned is that a "Reservation" in the router seems to be preferred these days. So I've switched to the reservation when I upgraded to Eisy. If you pull up the console for the router, look for Advanced Config, then LAN you'll find the IP reservation section. You'll see all connected devices and will show the Mac address of each including your Eisy. Find the Eisy, select it and add the reservation - choose the static IP address you want and assign it, save it. Then reboot your Eisy. It will always get that same IP address now when rebooted.

Ford Pass was down this afternoon too for a while - did AWS or which ever provider have a bigger outage?

Glad that worked - I just learned that this week myself in another thread. I wish they would add something to the console to point this out - it is not intuitive at all - @Michel Kohanim

I'm not sure I followed all of the problem, but I had problems setting the On Level for a switch and just found it has changed in the SW. If you are trying to set the local On Level for a switch, set the number to what you want in the console and then click the "On Level" button, not the "Write" button. You may already be trying that, but it isn't intuitive. I don't know when that changed, but maybe help for changing the settings of the switch.

I've got a Honeywell TH9320WF5003. I don't know if this is the same as the T9 you have and speak of. The Wifi works well (the app seems to lose connectivity every other time I open it - I just force close the iOS app and restart and connection is good) and I also control through Alexa which is reliable. 98% of what I need is just handled with the internal schedule. I don't get deep into the protocols, but would either the Eisy or HA have an interface to the Alexa skill that you could include in your programming?

Thank you @Techman and @Geddy for the follow up and solution. I guess I could have looked through some documentation. My system has been in for 10 to 12 years and I don't mess with it much. I just recall the button used to say "OK" or something and whatever change you made on the screen were written to the switch. I'm sure this is likely updated in the documentation. I'll note staring at that screen I don't think for a hundred years I would have thought to click the "On Level".

Interesting follow up - I forgot about the new UD Mobile app because I typically use Mobilinc from the phone. I opened the app, selected the switch, changed the On Level to 13%. It wrote the switch and that is now what I get when using the switch locally. So maybe a bug from the desktop ISY GUI?

I had this problem previously with a 994, but for current HW I just migrated to a new Eisy and upgraded the SW to 5.8.0. I used a new PLM. All of the migration has gone well: restore from the backup, Restoring the PLM, etc. Portal license migration, Spokens for Alexa. I had 3 or 4 switches that didn't update and I've done a restore device for those switches. I don't show any communication errors. I now have a switch that I want to update the "On" level for. Simple update to 13% from the 100% currently set. The console shows activity on the network and I've captured the detailed log, but nothing I do after clicking "Write Changes" will truly update the switch. I can remotely and locally control the switch, it all seems good, except the update for the "On" value Any insight would be appreciated. Screen shot of the switch and a log of the write is attached. ISY-Events-Log.v5.8.0__Wed 2024.01.10 01.28.46 PM.txt

Thanks for posting - I also ran into the same thing. I had just asked her to forget devices and she acted like she did, but did not. A quick Google took me to the above web page and that worked just fine.

I just replaced two switches last week, once you get them worked out in ISY you'll also have to go into the Portal and add them and remove the old ones, then have the Echo discover devices.

I was out on my ISY portal updating a couple of switches I replaced in my Echo. There is a button I don't recall "Live Update" it says that when it is enabled and using the V3 skill the device status will be sent in real-time to your echo app. I can't find any reference to a skill with that name - not linked to ISY anyway. Thanks.

So I've decided to embrace scenes again and give them a try based on your feedback. Between the new house wiring 2 years ago, the new faster PLM, several dual band switches, all of the above seem to all be working as designed now. I've ditched my two daily programs - or well didn't ditch them, but replaced all of the lines turning everything on twice and waiting one second between and now they each execute one or two lines to turn on or off the new scenes I've created. My logic had to change in how I control things, but only slightly. I turn about 2/3 of my indoor lights on with one scene and out side lights (porch and landscape) lights with a second scene. I then turn the indoor lights off via MobiLinc or a KPL button when I go to bed or if I'm not at home I have a program that runs during the night to turn indoor lights off via the scene. Then at dawn I have another program that turns the outside lights off. I've got some other programs that I used for Movie time or if someone goes to bed early, so I'll spend some time turning those in to scenes over the next few weeks as well. So far all seems to be working well with the scenes and it much nicer having all the lights come on at once vs taking a minute or two to get them all on. Thanks again for the feedback about trying scenes.

I've never had much luck with scenes. I know it's apparently the way to go and I know many use them, but I got frustrated a few years back and have never gone back. Maybe I need to go back to them and give them a shot, play with it some more. I've never been very successful with 3 way switches either. I had X10 switches, I've had Insteon for 8 to 10 years, have had the ISY, MobiLinc, Alexa - I work in IT and understand how most of it works, but have just had no luck with scenes. Not sure why - maybe I tried to make them too complicated, but seems I never got more than about half of the switches to come on or off when they should. I get the delay and in fact with the program to get it to work and get most switches on I put one second between turning each one on or off and then I even have a loop and execute the program twice each time because I still get a switch or two that won't come on. I noted the house had been completely remodeled about 2 years back, complete new wiring as well. Before that I had aluminum wiring and the circuits were strung all over the house so maybe the new wiring will help me out and I should give it a shot. I've got about 24 switches and outlets, most of them several years old. I now have the new PLM and probably 5 switches that are dual band, the rest are all old single band switches. I've got 2 switches now that need to be replaced - they won't respond at the toggle at all and only sometimes to my program.

Thanks for the insight and feed back. I went ahead and ordered the new PLM last night knowing how old mine was and from other threads I read here. With Amazon Prime it showed up at 10 this morning. The feed back on the wall warts is good, and I find now that I did already have one that would likely work, but I also have an Altex not too far from the house so ran over there at lunch and bought a 5V 2Amp that fits the plug. For some followup from other posts - I bought my 994i 3 years back and it likely could have come with a wall wart, but I don't remember it. I bought on one of the upgrade programs and got a good deal on it, so thinking it really didn't come with one. The information I posted about the ISY not needing a power supply if bundled with a PLM came right from a current description of the ISY, but I don't remember which web site. The 5 volt power adapter info comes out of the detailed manual for the ISY. I used the method to Replace the PLM - it worked pretty well, it missed two switches, so I ran it again and it missed two more - so I cut my losses and just deleted those 4 switches and added them back manually. I have almost no linking information in any switch - I use programs to turn them on and off when I want via the ISY. Other than a couple of switches that are several years old and have been given me problems it looks like I'm back up and running the programs this evening turned all of my lights back on which hadn't happened in two weeks. For now it's success.

Thanks for the replies and the reminder/heads up about the power supply. I believed last night it was the PLM, so I found and ordered it from Amazon - it will arrive today (2413S new January 2017 design). So now I've got to circle back and get the power supply, may just go to Fry's to pick that up if Amazon can't deliver today or tomorrow at the latest. I looked last night at the ISY bundles they sell and they never bundle a power supply with them and in fact still push that the unit can be powered from the ISY. (From their own description: (Please Note. The ISY994iZw/IR Pro does not require a power supply when used with a PLM (included) which supplies power via the RJ-45 port. ISY994iZw/IR Pro does provide a port for an optional AC adapter for instances where the PLM does not supply power, or the user prefers to supply power independent of the PLM (for example, PLM 2413S).) What PLM do they bundle if they are able to still get power from the PLM? Old ones or perhaps the USB one which I've not studied enough? I'll go take a look, hope to find an easy part number for the recommended power supply to purchase. Thanks again.

I've got an ISY 994i with zwave (add on after purchase). I've been running this system with a prior ISY99i for many years, 8 to 10 - don't recall. 2 years ago I remodeled the house - new wiring, everything. Upgraded to the 994i. All has been running well since the remodel. Also added Alexa and great control as well as from MobilLinc on the phone. The problem started about 3 weeks back - would have to ask Alexa a couple of times to get a switch to respond, then it got worse and over the last week I have very few switches (and it is random) coming on when my "dusk" program runs and almost nothing will respond to Alexa, nor to MobilLinc Pro on an iPhone and not even to the raw Java ISY interface. When I open the interface I get "Failed Communicating with" error messages for almost all switches. I was able to successfully update my ISY code to 4.6.2 - same is running for both Firmware and UI. I was able to get the log and see some errors popping up back a few months ago and in the last 2 weeks, starting on 9/15 I've got many "error" messages every day in the "control" column of the log. The system has just about become inoperable. I've turned the power off to the whole house and let all switches power down and back up. Reading a couple of other threads for information, I didn't watch the lights on the PLM but there are two stickers on the back of it - one says V2.9 with 0197 underneath it and the other is is the model 2412S with 0842 under it. I'm thinking this could be the original PLM as it's been years since I replaced it, if ever. I also went to PLM info/Satus it shows "xx.xx.xx v72/connected" and the PLM Links table doesn't show me anything when I open it and when I do the count it shows 0. From some of the other threads it sounds as this is the key that the PLM may be gone. Any insight is appreciated.

Will be happy with any input that will play nice with Airplay. Willing to try the mini plug on the front or one of the inputs on back.

I've thought of that and it is very doable since Yamaha also has an iPhone app, but am hoping for more seemless control - which ever is playing will auto connect - will play with the input on the front and or inputs on the back and hope that Airplay might trump the inputs.

Just ordered this device. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBCAW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Read a review somewhere that it the Dot will connect to it - then after a time it will disconnect - reverting sound back to the dot - then next time you want to play music it will connect again. We'll see. I've got a Mac Mini connected to a Yamaha receiver with Airplay and 6 sets of speakers through the house - it all works well and we like it, but we only have our music and Airplay. I'm hoping that with the Dot and BT we'll connect the Pandora account and play Pandora through Alexa to the same system. What I don't know about the Yamaha is that when I plug the blue tooth receiver in will it over ride my Airplay or can the receiver detect the appropriate audio source and get it right. Will know on Sunday when it arrives.