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Sorry - I wasn't clear. It is actually a quad band with dual 6 Ghz. One of those can be dedicated for the backhaul they note. It's very pricey right now. Hoping some new products or adoption will drive these prices down. If not - I'll settle for the tri band. https://www.tp-link.com/us/deco-mesh-wifi/product-family/deco-be95/

I've got an Orbi system now, however it is again, likely about 7 years old. I know everyone can improve, but their bad app and slow management and spotty wifi has driven me to say I won't go with them again. It is nice to hear though that others are happy and this is a newer product than I have, so perhaps they have improved.

Good feedback on the two brands I really thought I would focus on, thanks for sharing. I forgot CES is this week, so I'll see if either company has any big news dropping. TP-Link is really compelling and probably my front runner. Not wanting wired backhauls, their dual band 6 Ghz seems like a great way - use one channel to back haul and the other for devices. It is interesting some of the bad reviews on the Costco site however. Just a small percentage, but something to take note of. I'll do more research on Ubiquiti, guessing they may have a new router coming since the current one is out of stock. Maybe just an end of year issue.

I've been happy with ATT, but never gave their Wifi a chance, I've only had it a couple of years. I had cable before that and just always had my own router/Wifi. When we added the Tesla and connected garage door opener the Wifi we had at the time wouldn't reach the garage, so that is when I went with Orbi and the mesh/satellite. That got the signal to the garage and the back yard where we spend more time in the summer - have music, pool control, etc. I'm very happy with a solution out of the box, but do like to tinker too and that is why I add Ubiquiti to the mix - more hands on. I'm OK with the mesh too as I don't really want to pull wire to get a wired AP, but I would. I'll research the TP Link you note, but do hope to get at least 6E and or 7 to future proof for a few years. That may be oversold to however.

You mind sharing what you put in at a high level? A router? A powered switch and some AP's?

I think it is time to update the home router/wifi. Looks like the market has become flooded. It's a bit hard to wade through them. Just wondering if any of you have recently been through this and would share what you found that stands out and works well. I know what is good for one may not be the best for someone else. I currently have Orbi - with one mesh satellite. The interface has been very slow and clunky since day 1 and at times wifi seems to really take a hit. I won't buy another one. I believe that is about 7 years old. I'm on a typical city lot with a 2300 sq ft single level house. I have ATT Fiber 500 for service and am using their modem. That sits in one of the front corners of the house. In the opposite back corner is the garage where I have a two EV's and a garage door opener which all connect wifi. In the back yard I have Sonos speakers and I like to connect from phones or tablets while in the back yard. Today the Orbi satellite is near the garage and covers the cars and back yard. That coverage has been decent. I will either have to maintain a satellite or I'd need to move my new router to the middle of the house and I don't care to pull any more ethernet, although that may be a solution I have to embrace even for a decent access point. I have 3 hard wired 8 port switches, one to my TV, Apple TV and sound in the Living room, one to my master BR where the EISY (30+ Insteon switches) and Apple TV live and another to a closet where I used to have a music server. I will maintain those. Everything else is Wifi, 10 Sonos speakers, 3 or 4 laptops, Windows for work, others are MacBooks. A couple of iPads, 2 iPhones, Ring doorbell, Rachio sprinkler control, 2 Alexa's and maybe a few other connected gadgets. Any thoughts on the latest setup for coverage? TP-Link seems to stand out, Ubiquiti is intriguing for customization and even Ruckus r650 which is more business oriented for an AP isn't out of the question. I've been all over the place in my research. I appreciate any insight.

Yep - glad things are back up. Working in IT I get what it takes to have a major outage anytime, let alone a holiday. But, tongue in cheek, let's just say - AUTOEXTEND.

Is the firmware in the PLM undateable? I've searched and looked on Insteon's page and I don't find any instructions on how that is done. I have a new PLM and EISY, so I shouldn't need to update, but just curious for sometime in the future to keep the system all tuned up and running well.

I saw a RATDGO forum over at Home Assistant. You might find more help there.

What "Span" size did you use to get 3 wide? I can't seem to get 3 icons to one row.

Does BSD have a cron tab? Set up a weekly reboot from the OS.

I believe the way the Portal and all components work you don't ever truly have to worry about this - you can use DHCP. The portal knows your Eisy by Mac address and how to find your home network. There is magic that allows the portal to connect. I'll call it magic, because I don't fully know what protocols are used and how it allows the traffic into your home network. Maybe someone will clarify that for me too. What I can note and help with is how to get a static IP address for the Eisy if you prefer the static. I used to do that by hardcoding the IP in my ISY and turning off DHCP, but I've learned is that a "Reservation" in the router seems to be preferred these days. So I've switched to the reservation when I upgraded to Eisy. If you pull up the console for the router, look for Advanced Config, then LAN you'll find the IP reservation section. You'll see all connected devices and will show the Mac address of each including your Eisy. Find the Eisy, select it and add the reservation - choose the static IP address you want and assign it, save it. Then reboot your Eisy. It will always get that same IP address now when rebooted.

Ford Pass was down this afternoon too for a while - did AWS or which ever provider have a bigger outage?

Glad that worked - I just learned that this week myself in another thread. I wish they would add something to the console to point this out - it is not intuitive at all - @Michel Kohanim

I'm not sure I followed all of the problem, but I had problems setting the On Level for a switch and just found it has changed in the SW. If you are trying to set the local On Level for a switch, set the number to what you want in the console and then click the "On Level" button, not the "Write" button. You may already be trying that, but it isn't intuitive. I don't know when that changed, but maybe help for changing the settings of the switch.

I've got a Honeywell TH9320WF5003. I don't know if this is the same as the T9 you have and speak of. The Wifi works well (the app seems to lose connectivity every other time I open it - I just force close the iOS app and restart and connection is good) and I also control through Alexa which is reliable. 98% of what I need is just handled with the internal schedule. I don't get deep into the protocols, but would either the Eisy or HA have an interface to the Alexa skill that you could include in your programming?

Thank you @Techman and @Geddy for the follow up and solution. I guess I could have looked through some documentation. My system has been in for 10 to 12 years and I don't mess with it much. I just recall the button used to say "OK" or something and whatever change you made on the screen were written to the switch. I'm sure this is likely updated in the documentation. I'll note staring at that screen I don't think for a hundred years I would have thought to click the "On Level".

Interesting follow up - I forgot about the new UD Mobile app because I typically use Mobilinc from the phone. I opened the app, selected the switch, changed the On Level to 13%. It wrote the switch and that is now what I get when using the switch locally. So maybe a bug from the desktop ISY GUI?

I had this problem previously with a 994, but for current HW I just migrated to a new Eisy and upgraded the SW to 5.8.0. I used a new PLM. All of the migration has gone well: restore from the backup, Restoring the PLM, etc. Portal license migration, Spokens for Alexa. I had 3 or 4 switches that didn't update and I've done a restore device for those switches. I don't show any communication errors. I now have a switch that I want to update the "On" level for. Simple update to 13% from the 100% currently set. The console shows activity on the network and I've captured the detailed log, but nothing I do after clicking "Write Changes" will truly update the switch. I can remotely and locally control the switch, it all seems good, except the update for the "On" value Any insight would be appreciated. Screen shot of the switch and a log of the write is attached. ISY-Events-Log.v5.8.0__Wed 2024.01.10 01.28.46 PM.txt

Kind of surprised there aren't other reports here, but the 2477D became available today on Insteon.com. I have one switch down so I only bought one for now, not to hoard. In a couple more days I'll like buy an extra or two as backups and will save my switch that quit working in case it needs to be repaired some day.

Thanks for posting - I also ran into the same thing. I had just asked her to forget devices and she acted like she did, but did not. A quick Google took me to the above web page and that worked just fine.

I just replaced two switches last week, once you get them worked out in ISY you'll also have to go into the Portal and add them and remove the old ones, then have the Echo discover devices.

I was out on my ISY portal updating a couple of switches I replaced in my Echo. There is a button I don't recall "Live Update" it says that when it is enabled and using the V3 skill the device status will be sent in real-time to your echo app. I can't find any reference to a skill with that name - not linked to ISY anyway. Thanks.

So I've decided to embrace scenes again and give them a try based on your feedback. Between the new house wiring 2 years ago, the new faster PLM, several dual band switches, all of the above seem to all be working as designed now. I've ditched my two daily programs - or well didn't ditch them, but replaced all of the lines turning everything on twice and waiting one second between and now they each execute one or two lines to turn on or off the new scenes I've created. My logic had to change in how I control things, but only slightly. I turn about 2/3 of my indoor lights on with one scene and out side lights (porch and landscape) lights with a second scene. I then turn the indoor lights off via MobiLinc or a KPL button when I go to bed or if I'm not at home I have a program that runs during the night to turn indoor lights off via the scene. Then at dawn I have another program that turns the outside lights off. I've got some other programs that I used for Movie time or if someone goes to bed early, so I'll spend some time turning those in to scenes over the next few weeks as well. So far all seems to be working well with the scenes and it much nicer having all the lights come on at once vs taking a minute or two to get them all on. Thanks again for the feedback about trying scenes.

I've never had much luck with scenes. I know it's apparently the way to go and I know many use them, but I got frustrated a few years back and have never gone back. Maybe I need to go back to them and give them a shot, play with it some more. I've never been very successful with 3 way switches either. I had X10 switches, I've had Insteon for 8 to 10 years, have had the ISY, MobiLinc, Alexa - I work in IT and understand how most of it works, but have just had no luck with scenes. Not sure why - maybe I tried to make them too complicated, but seems I never got more than about half of the switches to come on or off when they should. I get the delay and in fact with the program to get it to work and get most switches on I put one second between turning each one on or off and then I even have a loop and execute the program twice each time because I still get a switch or two that won't come on. I noted the house had been completely remodeled about 2 years back, complete new wiring as well. Before that I had aluminum wiring and the circuits were strung all over the house so maybe the new wiring will help me out and I should give it a shot. I've got about 24 switches and outlets, most of them several years old. I now have the new PLM and probably 5 switches that are dual band, the rest are all old single band switches. I've got 2 switches now that need to be replaced - they won't respond at the toggle at all and only sometimes to my program.