Techman

Xathros, Just got a reply from Smarthome. Not sure what there is to monitor. If they can be added to the Hub then why not to the ISY? Thank you for contacting Smarthome. The range extenders have Insteon addresses so that you may add them to your Insteon Hub and monitor it from your mobile device.

To disable the keypad right click on the device then click disable. This removes it from the ISY. You can reverse this action by right clicking on the device and then click on enable.

It's possible that you have a loop in one of your programs that's using up the resources or a communication problem with the KPL. I would try disabling the Keypad in the ISY to see if the problem goes away. Did you add or change any programs just before the problem cropped up?

As of 5/25/15 the current shipping version of the open/close sensor(2843-222) is Rev 1.B, V.43. There is a manual specifically for the 1.B release that shows the absence of the jumper. However there's no mention of the Heartbeat node. The ISY still shows this as a TriggerLinc model 2421. I haven't found a way to access the 3rd "closed" node

I tried to add it to the ISY just to see what would happen and it came up as an unknown device

That makes sense. It's too bad they don't show up in the ISY so we could note their locations.

Any idea why the Range Extender (2992-222 R3.7) has an Insteon ID address?

In addition to what LeeG suggested you might want to look at the possibility of electrical interference. Have you added any devices on the garage circuit that could interfere with the Insteon signal? The IOLinc in not a dual band device so all signals travel over the wiring. The addition and or failure of a device on the same circuit could create noise which would interfere with the signal to and from the IOLinc.

Here's a screen shot for heartbeat notify The program it calls up sends the email

They may be operating on the edge of the envelope. I would assume that the RF range would be reduced if the switches aren't getting the needed voltage which is why they don't sometimes show up as available

The 2 wire dimmers do not support LED bulbs, only incandescent so it's possible that the switches are not getting the required voltage to operate properly.

Check to see if "trigger reverse" is checked under the IOLinc options. If so then you're probably using a N/O contact and should switch to a N/C contacts and uncheck trigger reverse. The 3:00 am query is resetting the IOLinc thus triggering your alert.

It's using the default setting. Did you click on "save" at the bottom after you filled out the from data

How old is the PLM? It sounds like the PLM power supply is failing.

If the led on the PLM fails to light then either you don't have voltage to the receptacle that the PLM is plugged into or the PLM died. It's most likely a coincidence that it failed when you installed the module.

Do you have "trigger reverse" checked under your IOLinc options, if so uncheck it as the query is changing its status. You'll also need to change your program to " Status 'The Gate Status' is ON

Can you plug the TV into a Filterlinc, that should solve your problem. http://www.smarthome.com/filterlinc-10-amp-plug-in-noise-filter.html

Jeff, Can you post the program that turns on the light you're having an issue with. The light is coming on at the default level you have set for that switch.

In that case you can write a program to send you a text or email anytime the Switchlink is manually turned off. I don't think you can verify if the bulb is removed as there's no way to determine if there's a load connected to the Switchlink. One thought would be to mount a motion sensor close to the light and use the dusk/dawn feature to notify you if it's dark

Why not just take the switch out of the circuit by tying the two wires together with a wire nut. I don't think you would want to put a Switchlinc in series with an Insteon bulb.

"api.aerisapi.com" brings up HAMWeather. Do you have the climate module installed.

I put in an American Standard system which also has dip switch options on the control board. It's configured it to allow the thermostat to control both the 1st and second stages. I've still have to play around with the deadband settings in order to get everything to my liking. I picked the Venstar over the rest because all the options were configurable and the computer software makes it an easy task. I've found that most of the HVAC contractors don't fully understand the newer and more complicated systems and thermostats so you really have to double check their work.

Thanks Paul. I'll give it a try. I currently don't have the Wi-Fi module but will pick one up soon. The ADR option makes sense as they can then integrate their product with the smart meter demand response technology. I just put in a new two stage HVAC system and the Venstar does everything I need and then some. When the 5.0 ISY firmware comes out it should open up new integration options with the stat.

Hi Paul, My only concern with Skyport is the possibility of their server being compromised. They ask for an abundance of personal information in order to establish an account, someone could easily determine when you're home or away, etc. which is why I stayed away from the Nest. Once you set up a Skyport account is it possible to disable it from the thermostat if need be or do you have to remove the WiFi module?

Do you know if I can use the Venstar Wi-Fi module to send email alerts from the thermostat without connecting to their skyport service?. I'm not sure if the module has the necessary firmware. I want to keep everything contained within the LAN.