arw01

Thank you gentlemen. I just ran the same add device this morning with no guests and it ran perfectly with 2 hops remaining. Also going to adjust the one motion sensor to timeout instead of transmit continuously, I have to surmise that the traffic was too much with the motion sensor transmitting continuously while the guests were here. Now off to diagnose the front porch, it always turns off, just won't turn on. Changed the switch, changed the load, no difference. Won't reliably answer a query either. Will dump a filter on some items that might be before the switch and plug in my x10 meter to see what the outlet that is on the same feed as this switch says the signal is. There are multiple dual band items within a few feet.

Trying to add a just bought 2334-232 from the Smarthome black friday/cyber monday sale. Getting the message as attached in the photo. The logs show the motion sensors getting hammered by some guests so those can be ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [3b 8f 4a ] Added to list of devices to link to ISY Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [iNST-TX-I1 ] 02 62 3B 8F 4A 0F 0D 00 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 3B.8F.4A 0F 0D 00 06 (00) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 3B.8F.4A 19.72.DE A7 0D FF (FF) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [std-Direct Nack] 3B.8F.4A-->ISY/PLM Group=0, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:34 PM : [iNST-TX-I2CS] 02 62 3B 8F 4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:35 PM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 3B.8F.4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 06 LNK-ON (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 19.72.DE 42 11 01 LTONRR (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.3C.D4-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=2, Hops Left=0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 3C D4 1] [DON] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [ 23 3C D4 1] DON 0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 3C D4 1] [sT] [255] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:38 PM : [ 23 3C D4 1] ST 255 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 19.72.DE 47 11 01 LTONRR (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.3C.D4-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 19.72.DE 47 11 01 LTONRR (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.3C.D4-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 19.72.DE 47 11 01 LTONRR (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.3C.D4-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:39 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 19.72.DE 47 11 01 LTONRR (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.3C.D4-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 11.01.01 C7 06 00 (00) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [std-Group ] 23.3C.D4-->11.01.01, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:40 PM : [iNST-INFO ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 11.01.01 C7 06 00 (00) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [std-Group ] 23.3C.D4-->11.01.01, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [iNST-INFO ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 00.00.01 C3 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [std-Group ] 23.3C.D4-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 3C D4 1] [DOF] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [ 23 3C D4 1] DOF 1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 3C D4 1] [sT] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [ 23 3C D4 1] ST 0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 00.00.01 C3 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [std-Group ] 23.3C.D4-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:41 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:42 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.3C.D4 00.00.01 C7 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:42 PM : [std-Group ] 23.3C.D4-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:42 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 3C D4 1] [DOF] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:42 PM : [ 23 3C D4 1] DOF 1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.C7.40 00.00.01 CB 13 00 LTOFFRR(00) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [std-Group ] 23.C7.40-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 C7 40 1] [DOF] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [ 23 C7 40 1] DOF 0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [D2D-CMP 000B] CTL [23 C7 40 1] DOF op=1 Event(val=0 uom=0 prec=-1) is Condition(val=0 uom=0 prec=-1) --> true Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [23 C7 40 1] [sT] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [ 23 C7 40 1] ST 0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 23.C7.40 19.72.DE 41 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [std-Cleanup ] 23.C7.40-->ISY/PLM Group=1, Max Hops=1, Hops Left=0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:50 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored. Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:51 PM : [iNST-TX-I2CS] 02 62 3B 8F 4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 Sat 12/12/2015 02:50:51 PM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 3B.8F.4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 06 LNK-ON (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:00 PM : [iNST-TX-I2CS] 02 62 3B 8F 4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:00 PM : [iNST-ACK ] 02 62 3B.8F.4A 1F 09 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F6 06 LNK-ON (01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:04 PM : [3B 8F 4A 0 ] Failed to add device, reason 3 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:04 PM : [All ] Writing 0 bytes to devices Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 21.59.9E 00.00.01 CB 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [std-Group ] 21.59.9E-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [21 59 9E 1] [DOF] [1] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [ 21 59 9E 1] DOF 1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [D2D EVENT ] Event [21 59 9E 1] [sT] [0] uom=0 prec=-1 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [ 21 59 9E 1] ST 0 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:13 PM : [D2D-CMP 0015] STS [21 59 9E 1] ST op=1 Event(val=0 uom=0 prec=-1) is Condition(val=255 uom=0 prec=-1) --> false Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:14 PM : [iNST-SRX ] 02 50 21.59.9E 00.00.01 CB 13 01 LTOFFRR(01) Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:14 PM : [std-Group ] 21.59.9E-->Group=1, Max Hops=3, Hops Left=2 Sat 12/12/2015 02:51:14 PM : [iNST-DUP ] Previous message ignored.

picked up enough to wipe out the NEXT two years of energy savings, but when the wife says she wants a module on this and a module on that and wants the Christmas trees to really work this year, well.. You make the wife happy right!??!!

Still on the project list, as one other poster noted, the wires are separate where they screw down to the terminals on the dryer itself to maybe get the transducer over one. Ideally I would like a little vibration sensor that would power from the io link 5v and be sensitive enough to just stick to the back with a magnet or double stick tape. Anyone comes across little vibration senors, maybe an ardino could power from the io link and then find the sensor?

I have similar trouble to this, but I DID get the reversed magnets. Still get some false garage door is open KPL lights and have not been able to figure out how to get a program to update them. I set my my hallway keypad with a button that if pressed causes the query to run on that iolinc, but my kpl lights don't update. Must have an error in the program. You could maybe get a reversing relay or something in your gate wire so the io linc could be "correct" when it reports. What does the link table look like compared to the isy link table for the io linc?

done, all that stuff happens to the other HA systems.. if it happens on the isy, it was your fault

LEDs vary greatly from suppliers. I do animated Christmas lights to music and have learned a few places where LEDS are high quality from. you get what you pay for. The meanwell is wired after your dimmer and then is the power supply for the leds. I bought mine for $25 or so, but have not made it back to that project. What I would like to find for the wife's scrapbook room LED under cabinet lights is a really cool on off switch she can use at the cabinets.

I have one on my washing machine with a program that sends a text when it's done. You do have to fiddle with the settings to make it work how you want it to. Find the device in the tree on the left, and look for some options on the right towards the bottom, might be a button to click first before you can use the options.

So the webcontrol board reboot issues have been resolved? What's the current url for buying them, would eventually like some humidity sensors and I've had enough issues with Pi's that I may not want to complicate my life with another one or 5..

Last result will be a Dallas 1-wire with a PI, but looking for a more turn key solution that has: Ability to update my ISY on the freezer's current temp visual display so I can SEE what the temp of the freezer is Someone has to have found Nirvana for this? PS Yes I googled and there is nothing new from the last few months, but with all the IOT coming out constantly, or maybe some used an arduo with a wifi shield and a one wire to do a rest update with a LCD display who knows.. Alan

I can often regret the expense of replacing some pieces, it wipes out months of electricity savings, and I messed up some wiring I did last year that wiped out a years worth of savings. But when it's 11 at night, COLD in the house and you can reach over hit a single button and turn off every light in the house reliably, that's pretty darn worth something! The wifey likes she can open the garage door from the keypad on the way out, I like that it's 'mostly" reliable to tell me it's closed for sure (no false closed, just false opens). I would like to branch in Z wave for some reliable locks (are there any yet?) and I love the idea of the multi sensors and ability to control LED light colors. I ended up using a Raspberry Pi for my one wire that one day stopped working and I have not fixed that yet as I have the pi running the household server and don't want to crash it a dozen times figuring out what happened to the one wire. Mobilinc is a constant frustation addressed in another thread. and I have a few devices to fix and get my money back someday out of them. The wifey also likes that we can turn on the lights from anyplace with phone access, and she gets a notice when someone gets home from school... Alan

My first repair was a little messy and I think perhaps i pulled the wrong cap, have not tried that KPL yet as it was a spare that I may have to buy another cap for and repair again However the second repair where I drilled out the rivet of the triac was less painful, and I followed the idea above where I just broke off the old cap and soldered on top of the pads with a good pile of solder until it flowed all the way through. I do have a solder sucker pen coming and some new wick as mine does not work hardly at all now. That KPL was instantly repaired with the single 50v 10uf cap replacement, I did NOT put a bolt in as I didn't have just the right one, and could not find my rivet gun. In my application the load is a pair fo 10 watt leds so I am not worried about extra heat on the triac. It would be pretty trivial to replace the rivet if you have the proper size tools. I have one more to do next when more tools arrive that controls a single CFL porch light. Then will just wait for any others to fail if they ever do. Alan

I just wait for them to be $20.00 and then have the 20% off sale at the same time, makes it liveable. The problem with the 50 pack and the custom eteched buttons on the same KPL, is they have different translucent properties, so the pack looks brighter than the custom and depending on your back light setting can appear ON when next to the custom etched buttons. Sadly I have not installed all the buttons I paid for yet a couple of years ago! Alan

None of my new KPL's have failed, they better not, but I did fry one hooking it up wrong and plan to repair it. I did the KPL cap repair on an older KPL last night that was just in my stash and that triac is a pia and I snapped the leads off so soldered those back up too. I think the next one I will just drill out that rivet and install a small bolt! Alan

where do you get the locks Teken? I have 2 that could use those! And the comment on using electricity, maybe if you are in the .20 to .30 per Kwh range it might. I measured my 16+ year old fridge and even if it was free, the new one would take 20 years to pay for itself. I think the notion new ones use less electricity and pay for themselves is nothing but marketing BS. I have an even older refrigerator that costs 1.78 a month to run. Alan

For me, the relay needs to be bigger. I just installed a machine that requires 40 amps of 220 (completly assinine since it's a 22 amp max draw and uses number 12 wires inside, but I vent), so even the 30 amp version would not be "proper" choice but I am sure would be fine. A plane and normal ISY out in the shop with a few of these could be intersting, I have insteon on there for a floor heater and on occassion it has NOT turned off so the shop gets real warm. That;'s just a 120v appliance linc though. Any know of a timer that would always turn off say after an hour that I could put in line and would reset everytime it starts back up to be one hour? Alan

+1 on the thank you, just lost another older used KPL to the same buzzy clicky flashy. Had to shut down power to do some 220 volt wiring and when I came back up it was done for. I may do a couple more factory resets on it to see if I can get it up for a week while the caps come. Have one in the house to do to at the front door and another used one in the stash box, so will do all three of them. Alan

So do you have zwave or insteon in the house? Sent from my Sony Tablet S using Tapatalk

Check some Meanwell power supplies, they have a line of products intended for 12v dimming with a 120 track upstream of the dimmer. I believe it was Jameson I got mine from. Also I use heavy duty semi truck license plate bulbs and have only needed to replace 1 since and most likely it was my dogs smacking the fixture that did! Sent from my Sony Tablet S using Tapatalk

Be ordering the parts and see how it goes, have one PLM that died, another that is flakey and a quarter or more until I see a UDI PLM to buy and be done with this silliness!

glad I have an older bed control! Have to keep that in mind, have a lovely timer going for the wife. I kept track of when were were too hot at night, turn the bed off about 35 minutes before that, make note of when we woke up cold, turn the bed back on about 35 minutes before that. And turns off a while before having to get up in the morning so it's not too commfy in the bed. On saturday morning I just leave it on all day!

Sometimes it's the weirdest items that cause the issue. My sony tablet charger can completely kill all signal at any outlet it's plugged into. I put a filter on a 12" extension pigtail and wala, full communications. But unplugging and trying certainly is away to do it, some folks turn off whole breakers to issolate areas of the house that are the problem.

Be interested in what you find here, I fried a dual band by wiring the load wrong, then fried another one doing the same thing before I figured out what i was doing because I was not at the device when I flipped the breaker to see that it was frying Have not taken mine part but the triac is toast..

That could be, it's got it's heat sink as the side of the housing and it's a nice burnt up color! Do you suppose it would stop there or get some other pieces between, but likely thinking about it the triac go because they use what an opto issolator most of the time to keep current out of coming in when that blows? The good news is I didn't wire the red led on the 8 button $80 swich when I had that one backwards today, keep thinking my red traveler is a neutral and not a hot when wiring the cans up today. Luckily I noticed my error before I wired the red wire off the switch tonight, fixed my error, still didn't work so checked the switch and I had wisely capped the load wire along. Hooked it up and walla dimming lights!

I flipped the breaker and I don't think my helper was looking at the switches (one brand new dual band dimmer) and then one older dimmer switch. I SAW the second one blow as I boneheaded it and wired the load red to 120v straight from the hot line instead of my load. From the outside I can see I fried at least the voltage regulator. Any else fixed one after the magic smoke is out?