etsvilik

I had an existing ademco keypad that started acting weird. My solution was to power down the panel, disconnecting battery and AC for a minute. Than quickly reassign keypad address. I believe you need to press 1 and 3 within 60 sec to do it after powering up. Addresses start at 16. Somehow the keypad forgot it's address. Make sure you don't have other keypads on the same address.Honeywell keypad

Exactly my point. Power line being as fail over protocol for RF to extend the reach. Powerline component of Insteon device may work in similar fashion to WiFi powerline extenders. It delivers comms to further distance and allows remote device to act as an Insteon RF access point. Mixed media mesh. RF can be made more reliable. Lutron Radio RA are pretty solid albeit high cost. It takes higher quality components, stable oscillators and noise reduction techniques. I found CAO sensors being very reliable RF devices with great range.

Giving that Insteon is a resurrected X10 - they have good chances to stay relevant long term . If one believes in Lindy Effect. My point about RF was that I find puzzling the current protocol. AFAIK If power line communication in Insteon is crippled - RF is not taking over. It should be a huge advantage to use both methods as fail over for each other.

I agree with mwester points. I also think Insteon needs to decouple power-line and RF and make RF as a primary communication protocol. Power-line coms being grandfathered for compatibility or as a backup. Tired of Filter-links clogging outlets.

Re : leak detectors. I'm throwing out all insteon leak detectors. Once few drops of water gets on the detector the boards are fried, contacts rusted etc.. It is a "disposable" one shot detector. They could have coat the PCB's at least. Replacing all with z-Wave Homeseer leak sensors. Z-Wave looks more and more attractive.. with each shot of tequila

Take a look at CAO outdoor tag with K-type thermocouples. http://wirelesstag.net/probe.html Those Omega thermocouples are capable of very high temperatures measurement. Im using one to alert me when my grill reached set temperature. Another is measuring pool water heater output temps. Rock solid with larger batteries.

Thanks for suggestions. I went ahead with making my own control for this heater. Total BOM is about $300. Newark had really good prices on parts. I actually went with larger WD-60 6kW heater and upgraded to 50 Amp SSR. RGC1P48V50ED. . I purchased optional temperature sensor for Qubino and attached it to the SSR heatsink to monitor operating temperatures. Setup to shutdown the control if exceeds 150F. In my tests it stayed at around 90F, Will monitor this for some time. Tested all last night by hooking up to Cook top outlet with spare cord. Initially had trouble with residual voltage from dimmer - SSR would not shutdown completely with 0.24v on controls. Resistor across didn't help. After switching SSR mode (7 to 6) the issue went away. In this mode SSR has a dead band up to 0.5v before starting to conduct. Control is pretty lineal with Qubino control voltage closely related to dimming %. To Do's: All left is to put the panel inside the enclosure, run 10/2 wire and install the heater. Dress up the wiring and label everything. Waiting for 240V LED's to install in enclosure door to show main and load activity. May add extra safe-fail using current transformer and I/O Link. SSR typically fails shorting so I think to have a setup to alert me if current flows without ON signal. Need to program exclusive control of the heater or retractable awning under it. Can't have both:)

It is very relevant topic for me. I'm looking to install one of the Infratech IR heaters on patio. It is their W-40 , 4000W, 240V model. For controls I considered their Home Management single zone unit . It is controlled by 0-10VDC. However it costs more than 2x the cost of the heater itself, over $1600 I want to try to roll out my own control using Qubino 0-10V dimmer and SSR like this model RGC1P48V30ED. under $200. I like that they have a soft start advanced option as it may prolong the life of the heat element. I would place 24V power supply to feed both Qubino and SSR inside the enclosure, placed in the garage. I'm a bit concerned with Banichi's note re residual DC voltage on qubino as need to make sure it shuts heater off completely. Please update on your findings It's been a very long time since I touched any industrial controls. If you guys have any comments, suggestions on my plan please share.

Thanks for the note. I checked and they told me I can do whatever past their curb shutoff valve. Works for me.

Good idea about bypass. I have another shutoff valve already after the meter. I'm adding new valve before the meter, so technically have a backup shutoff. I also only looked at valves with manual override. I'd love to integrate with ISY but UDI Z-wave implementation in current state is not appealing to me. For instance ISY new daughter board is only for beta 5.XX firmware but I don't want to upgrade until it is a stable production version. ISY is not a toy for our home but hard working automation appliance that needs to be rock solid as it is now. Adding the old Z-wave board now is kind of going backwards. For time being I may just try to use IFTTT or other means to link ISY to Smarthings

I'm also looking into water shut-off system. Deciding between Smarthome 70275 and Z-wave Warercop valve (found on Amazon ). Also looked at Dome Z-Wave I have no Z-Wave setup and not eager to start building the whole stack, upgrade just for the valve to work. I thought may be to get Smarthings to get this running if I take this route. I have a number of Insteon leak sensor already in place. Can't find much information on Smarthome valve so may be someone can answer those questions.: Is valve self returning to open? What happens when I/O link relay opens? Read some reviews about issues with bad, leaking NPT threats. Is this still an issue? In general how do you reset the valve to open once leaking condition removed? Through program, manually through interface of manual override at the valve? In general which route would you take in my situation?

I have somfy motorized awning. The old wind sensor was spinner measuring wind speed . It proved to be unreliable. Lately somfy changed it to accelerometer type sensor attached to the front bar. It senses awning flapping on windy condititions and works much better. If you don’t have somfy system I would try to utilize CAO pro sensors with accelerometer. There are lot of information here in forums on how to integrate them with iSY. I use one for detecting when dryer stops

I'm using Global Cache serial interface with URTSII. Controled with network resources. Supports directions and stop. Rock solid for many years controlling multiple shades and awning

Hi Michael, Checking if you heard back from Amazon? Do you mind sharing if this is specific to my setup, network or else. I just have not seen other reports on this forum that feedback does not work.

Just upgraded to V3 I can control my light through voice or in the app. However in Alexa App on iPad when I click on the Light icon to control the device it shows "There was s problem" message in the grey bar on top. It provides no other details. I thought I suppose to see devices status in the app. However they all show as "off". I have "Live Update" enabled in the portal. When I go into specific device screen it shows the last status that was activated in the app. If I turn the light off by voice - app does not update and still shows it as ON Initially brightness slider shows 0 for all devices or scenes regarding of the On/Off status. The light can be at full brightness but slider would be at 0. I can move the slider to 100% with no change in light. If I move the slider lower it controls the brightness.

I have ISY on UPS, but not PLM. My reason is twofold. I want to have both insteon and RF signal unobstructed for reliable comminication. Secondly Im concerned with rudimental power supply in PLM being fed with non pure sine AC. Typical consumer UPS are non pure sine output. This places extra stress on weak, poorly designed power supply with underrated capasitors in PLM

Indeed Bali changed motors. Mine are 3 years old, with RTS. Now it is not even listed in their site. I will be adding more roller shades when finish installing new 12 feet window next month and was going to go back to Loews for roller shades. I guess I need to see other alternatives. Checked blinds.com as larryllix suggested but they list Bali and their own brands only and no information on the types of motor they use. Who else is selling blinds with Somfy? I liked on paper Somfy Sonesse ultra 50 DC RTS motors. Anyone has experience with those? I prefer DC for easier and more inconspicuous pre-wiring . Noise numbers are the same as AC version.

I have Bali roller shades from Lowes. They are Somfy RTS. Automated with URTSII and Global Cache

I was thinking to do something similar with my Brigg&Stratton generator. My idea is/was to use Kumo CAO Tag to send the REST to ISY when generator is on. One way is to use Water sensor tag with sensor pads soldered and wired to the Auto transfer switch relay. Or Accellerometer based PRO tag attached to the generator to sense the vibration. I used this method to detect Dryer operation.

Thank you all for suggestions. Have few more questions: My wife insists we don't need RGB there-just warm white. Can I still use Magic or similar controller one W channel to dim the strips? If above works. Do I need to turn off the light on the AC side with say micro on/off insteon module or I can turn them "off" via controller, leaving power supply always on? How "noisy" are those controllers, power supplies? I'm referring to both RF and power line interefernce. Should I plan for Insteon filter on the PS?

I started reading through an avalanche of posts regarding RGBW strips and want to start somewhere with those toys. Don't have any prior experience with LED strips. For my first trial I'd like to use the strips on retractable awning outside. Something similar to Somfy LED kit but with RGBW colors, advanced controls etc. I plan to attach the strip to Awning arms with about 3 foot sections on each part with flexible jumpers/connectors around the middle elbows and shoulders. I'm looking for your guys experience/suggestions on weatherproofing of LED, connectors and controller. Experience with waterproof strips. Should I use strips or may be some rigid fixtures you can recommend? I saw some watertight connectors on AliExpress but not sure if those will work. I guess I can solder pigtail to the strips and tape over. I'm looking for more neat, lasting implementation as the strips are exposed and very visible from under the awning.

If I start from scratch today I would still use the same setup as it's been rock solid for number of years. It is as following: Somfy RTS based blinds and awning Somfy universal interface URTS controlled by RS-232. It works fine from basement reaching awning across the house. Serial control from Global Cache GC-100-12. Today I would probably use new GC Flex with serial cable adopter instead.

Thank you all for suggestions. The unit has a single pin out where wifi module is plugged in. Alternately I could purchase their thermostat adopter that uses the same pin out and interfaces to common thermostat. They want $290 just for an adopter. Thermostat is on me. It also needs separate 24VAC for the thermostat to function. A little toooo much for what I value this feature. This is installed in all glass sun-room so I would not want extra wires hanging out of the unit. I though hacking their Kumo to be ideal. My family is well adopted to control pretty much everything from the phones or IPads. We don't touch our ecobee at all and thermostat for the Mitsu would be a waste and an eyesore. I'm adding 2 more units this months. Gives me multi zone HVAC in older single-zone house without any duct work. Mitsubishi Kumo app conveniently brings control for all units in the same app. IR would definitely work but as you said lacks feedback.

I wish but No, it's different "Kumo". It is Japanese for "cloud" or "spider".

Checking if anybody tried to control Mitsubishi split HVAC systems from ISY. I have a ductless system installed in my addition. Works wonderfully. It comes with archaic IR remote control. I'm planning to purchase Mitsubishi plug-in wi-fi module that allows to control the unit via their proprietary "Kumo" cloud and smartphone. I'd like to be able to automate it the same way I do with ecobee 3 thermostat and the Node. There is very little information I could find online in terms of automation. API is not published. One guy reported intercepting some pockets sent to the unit. It looks like JSON wrapped XML string. Would be an ideal candidate for Network resource. Any ideas? May be someone more Networking savvy can show me the easiest way I can intercept/decode the pockets sent to the unit.