smokegrub

I am aware of threads here complaining about the outrageous new pricing structure for these buttons. I have posted a suggestion for a new product at http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list offering KPLs with custom etched keys included. This will expose the cost of custom etched buttons in the initial purchasing decision. I encourage you to "like" my idea or, alternatively, propose your own.

I don't particularly mind some Cree bulbs having a two-year life, but I do mind their being advertised and sold at prices indicative of 10 years service. Maintaining sales receipts keyed to specific bubs and their location is just too much trouble. It would be especially useful if we had a bulb section at the forum where we could document our experiences and thus enable us to make better purchasing decisions.

The recessed fixture Cree bulbs have performed well with my ISY9994i IR Pro and Insteon switches. However, in less than 2 years 2 of 6 have failed. They have a 10-year warranty, but I did not keep my sales receipt and other required information for replacement by the manufacturer. Have you experienced a similar failure rate? Given the high price of these bulbs this does not bode well for their future use in my home.

Yes, for heating system failure I use 60 degrees for notification. That provides ample opportunity for someone located nearby to start the backup system. There are propane stoves in the house. The first, pilot lit, is in the same room as the thermostat. It only fails if the pilot is extinguished. The other stove is electronically ignited and is subject to failure with a power outage which is commonplace in the area. Thus, I use the pilot lit stove with the electronic stove as backup. I would love to find a way to have the electronically lit stove automatically relight following a power failure but I know of no way to do so. A manual press of an igniter button is required.

I am glad you shared this Larry. Your hand on experience shows that Smarthome's advertising is clearly incorrect. I have a 2441zth (with dongle) that I use to monitor the interior temperature of a vacation home. I have programmed notifications for 0700 every morning and a low setpoint indicative of failure of the heating system. I was considering adding the waterproof sensor to my setup.

I am curious why the Insteon thermostat would not be a desirable solution. INSTEON Waterproof Temperature Sensor is an external sensor that wires into your INSTEON Wireless Thermostat. Able to withstand temperatures ranging from -13° to 185°F (-25° to 85°C), Waterproof Temperature Sensor is ideal for monitoring and maintaining temperatures in harsher environments, including pools, spas, aquariums, cellars, attics and more. When connected, INSTEON Wireless Thermostat's LCD display will show the sensor's temperature readings in small digits above the Wireless Thermostat's internal monitor temperature reading. Waterproof Temperature Sensor's range can be extended up to 100' with 22 AWG wire.

I sincerely apologize, but I fear I have been describing my setup incorrectly. I am going to carefully reassess with the help of a competent electrician then I will post a schematic. Again, I am so sorry if I have wasted some of your valuable time. I will not post on this again until I am certaibn about my setup.

I am going to abandon this project for the time-being. I have the kitchen and fan torn apart and my daughter and her family are returning from shopping --they are here on vacation. Maybe at some time in the future I will seek help on this again. Please accept my sincere thanks.

There are two wires that enter the junction box--the same two at the switch. One is white and the other black. Both have power just like they did at the switch.

Here are the requested files.

Here are attached files for the wall switch and for the wiring under the fan cowling.

Thanks, Stu.

I will open the fan housing tomorrow and send photos of the wiring. Thanks to all for your patience and help.

I have experience with the FanLinc and have had one installed and in operation for two years. I have one awaiting installation in the fan I have been talking about. The plan is an 8-button KPL replacing the stndard wall switch and a FanLinc installed inside the fan housing.

I apologize for having difficulty with this, but I do not yet understand what is suggested. I have two hot wires coming into the switch. From there two hot wires go to the ceiling fan. From that point I get lost. The illustration offered earlier confuses me because it shows power on the side of the fan away from the switch and there is no power there. Then there is mention of a neutral returning to the switch/KPL! A schematic would be very helpful. I showed this thread to a man who does basic wiring (switches, etc.) and he couldn't understand it. Thanks for your help.

That's what I was hp\oping to hear! Thanks!

"You will not be able to control a physical load with the KPL but you can still control the light and the fan speeds through the FanLinc." Pardon my lack of knowledge on the subject but the KPL has 8 buttons , one will be used for the fan light and 3 for fan speed control. That leaves 4 buttons. I plan to use one to enable/disable hidden door sensors, one to enable/disable a SynchroLinc that provides information about when a well pump turns On/Off (only used when we are away from the locxation) and one that will reserved for some other purpose. Will I be able to do that with the suggested wiring modification? The statement, in quotes, is the reason I ask the question.

I am not a knowledgeable electrician but I think I understand what you are saying, Teken. But, without real time status reporting from the KPL I lose much of what I want. This switch is 325 miles from my primary residence and is not visited during the winter.

In an old home (where I was raised) the wiring is very old. The wiring in the kitchen is the newest, but it is more than 60 years old. Currently, a switch there controls the on/hh status of a ceiling fan/light. Pulling the switch reveals a single wire entering the top of the box with one each black and white wires meaning both apparently have to be hot. Is it possible to wire a KPL into this setup? How? Rewiring is not a very realistic option but it could be done. I want to use the KPL to control the llght/fan using a FanLinc.

The 2441ZTH thermostat (powered by a dongle) at our vacation home is controlled by a LampLinc Dimmer (Dualband). Occasionally, the thermostat's current condition is blank in the ISY and on MobiLinc. By turning the LampLinc off and then back on using the LampLinc the thermostat reboots but loses its mode (heat/cool) and its setpoint (degrees). An ISY program (see below) runs automatically when it detects that the mode has been lost and resets it and the set point. The current temperature will then appear correctly in the ISY and on MobiLinc. Since this program automatically reboots the thermostat it inserts the temperture setpoint specified in the program. It the mode and/or setpoint needs to be changed, it must be first changed in the program. Thermostat Setpoint Reset (Power Outage) - [iD 0011][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If Status 'Thermostat / Thermostat (Main)' is Mode Off Then Wait 15 seconds Set 'Thermostat / Thermostat (Main)' Mode Heat Set 'Thermostat / Thermostat (Main)' 50° (Heat Setpoint) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The thermostat has worked flawlessly since implemented this method. I realize that more robust programming can address different modes/settings, I just don't need them. And, by the way, I have a notification sent to me each morning with the current temperature. I have another sent only when the temperature drops below setting indicating the heating system has failed. I can then call for assistance in addressing the problem.

Now, that's a Man Cave!

There is nothing funny about my Man Cave!

Do you think that would better satisfy my objective?

If you do not send an off, what stops the doorbell from continuing to sound?

Thanks, Lee and Larry.