larryllix

I think those two sports are for people that like logical puzzles, and as much as woodworkng seems not too logical to others, the creating of jigs and techniques to accomplish what we want is a real logical problem, and with a nice result we are proud of. HA, however, is the same type of logical thinking sport, but when you tell lay people, they usually circle their temple with a finger (mentally), while they say "Cool! is that useful" = thinking "it would be easier for me to just walk across the room and turn off the light switch" After moving out of my large home with my outback shop into a tiny 1300 sq.ft apartment..... I miss it a lot. (hmmmmm... I wonder if people would complain about sawdust falling from 26 stories up? Strange weather we get here!!)

My original idea was to "AI" enable a portable rotary saw and have it run around the room, (and maybe across the ceiling ), cutting all kinds of things in half, and maybe attacking a dog, but with the guard and the trigger switch, it was getting too far off reality for anybody to believe that one for more than two microseconds. Maybe next year? LOL! Wife always finds some way to get me good every year. After I swore and cursed some, she let me in on the joke. I knew it was that day but I still fell for it. She's good.

Years ago a guy I worked with bought big Forstner bit costing him about $40. He put in an empty plastic peanut butter jar up on a shelf until he needed it for his cabinet doors. While trimming the back tips of the drawers to make them insert more easily he knew he shouldn't do it but he angled his table saw blade and ran the drawers between the blade and the fence. One drawer bit and the blade shot the small wedge out past him, down the length of his 40 foot long shop and smashed the plastic peanut butter jar and shattered the carbide tips on his new Forstner bit.

Key LEDs cannot be controlled directly, for some weird reason. The workaround is to create a Scene for each key, say KeyA, KeyB....KeyF, and drag and drop each key LED device into each scene. Now programs will be able to turn each scene on and off. Key LEDs can be dimmed as a group and turned on and off individually when they are part of a scene. They would then be the only device in each scene.

I had the same problem and burned up a few X10 modules. However I had an old 100A mercury wetted solenoid type contactor I salvaged some old workplace scrapping. It still burned the contacts together from the inductive coil on that one too. Then the heavy duty MOVs came out and that worked well for several years until I closed up shop and moved into an apartment in the big city. It sure was nice being able to control the 2 HP dust collector from my mitre saw without walking back and forth the length of my shop. BTW: Ever have a static problem with your dust collection pipes? Mine put me to my knees before I smartened up. I thought the metal furnace piping would not cause that. Maybe the last flex poly pipe was doing it, metal spring inside and all. WOW! was I wrong!.

I would have left about ('aboot' for the Canucks) two layers with melted chocolate stains on it.

That was the chuckle for me.... Who, in their right mind, would connect a table saw to an OnOff module?

You've been had! April fools! 😁 For those of you that got suckered...my apologees! This has been a public service reminder not to connect dangerous devices to automated systems! Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

I was working on a chest of drawers in my shop for the last 3-4 months. I chose red oak because I prefer the woodgrain. Getting to the final stages I stained all the pieces and was ready for some urethane finish. Off to HD I go to pick up a can of urethane and just as I am heading to the checkout my phone goes off. OMG! I just got my first smoke alarm warning via my polISY box!, and it's from inside my shop!!! Quickly paid for the can of urethane and some real fine sandpaper and loaded my ISY mobile app. NO CONNECTION? hmmmm.. loaded my webcam app and it cannot connect either. Now I am concerned!! Driving home, attempting to not violate the speed limit too much, I arrive to see a firetruck in my driveway and a few firemen leaving my shop. Apparently a neighbour saw the smoke, knew I wasn't home, and called the fire department. "What's happening guys? !!" ..."well, it seems your table saw motor caught on fire and we had to put it out. Sorry about the door but nobody was home." "WTF?" I enter my shop with curiosity and gloom in my heart. There is my table saw, and floor al soaked with water from the fire hoses. Next I see the worst scenario...my freshly (water based) stained chest of drawers soaked in firehose water, stain ruined and wood beginning to swell, complete write-off! After a few tears I began to surmise what had happened. It seems the OnOff module I was experiementing with on my table saw has somehow turned itself on, but a block wood got caught between the blade and the fence, and stalling the motor, the motor began to smoke. I am sure the sawdust build up didn't help. So much for thermal overload!!! Who tests those thing anyway? The ceiling will need replacing from the smoke damage. The best part? It seems that the block of wood eventually got loose enough that the saw blade shot the wood across the room and smashed my new WiFi 7 router, explaining why none of my LAN HA toys worked. Wow!, At least nobody was killed by the flying block of wood. I have heard of this before from another woodworker. Now after returning the can of urethane for credit, I need to look at new ceiling tiles, a new router, a new door, they had to kick in and bent it in the middle, breaking the glass pane, some trim wood for the doorframe, and misc paint and hole fillers for the door latch hole and trim. $250 charge for the fire truck run. Table saw: TBD. I guess my OnOff module on a table saw motor was a complete failure but I will have to investigate to see what went wrong with my new algorithm. I'll be busy for the next while, once I am done crying!

I hope you got a spare fixture or two. When you replace one 6 months from now the colour difference looks like hell. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

Also to be noted in ISY programming... Looping, of any kind, cannot be nested. Multiple programs must be used for nested looping. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk

Something wrong there. Fixtures do not draw voltages. They draw current. Fixtures may be rated at 600 volts for maximum potentials, but that is not what they are necessarily fed to operate. Even in industry 600 volt lighting runs off of 346 volts, from each phase to neutral. In many places, 600 volt systems are not common, but use 480 volt systems, making the phase to neutral voltage used for lighting 277. Even then safety codes force use of metal switch plates and other enhanced mechanical equipment techniques.

I was big into energy monitoring years back, (spent a lifetime in the energy field) but now we have LED lighting and it is cheaper to leave a light on 24 x 7 than to purchase a smart home controller for the bulb. Make sure you are actually moving forward and let us know how it goes. If there is better out there, people will want to know about it.

Which brands are the perfect ones? Any lists?

I attempted this when I moved from ISY994 to polisy. I found most of it wasn't worth it but I think it may work with one CapU handling all Insteon comm devices while the other handled all WiFi and other protocols. The comm protocols are the bottleneck for the PLM and multiple PLMs will not help due to echoing them all over the house. It is easy to comm between ISY devices using Network resources talking to the other cpu device. Bidirectional gets a little trickier. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk