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larryllix

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About larryllix

  • Birthday 01/21/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    :Mid SouthWestern (KW) Ontario
  • Interests
    I began building transformers from audio to power transformers and then wiring industrial control systems for my first eight working years.

    I then spent thirty four years with revenue metering and electrical grid system protection and control systems. I found this most interesting, starting with relay and tube systems, and ending with DNP 3.0 and Modbus protocols over Ethernet communication, CPU based, distributed intelligence protection and control systems. This was my passion since I was about 5 years old. I got my first multimeter at six and was forced to study the GE Transistor manual at ten. I was tired of building crystal detector radios that only received the two local radio stations and Dad said I had to understand transistor technology first. :)

    I have lived on CPU based projects since 1972 just after the 8 bit CPUs were released to the public. 384 bytes of ram was a good start. My first 16K cost me just under $1000!

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Community Answers

  1. I use many MagicHome WiFi RGBCW bulbs. When I changed routers (ASUS) , despite all he same SSID name, password and security protocol (WPA/WPA2), all the bulbs needed to be reconnected with the new router. IMHO, there has to be some other security detail that is never discussed inside the WiFi protocol. When I changed the router back (Netgear) later the same thing occurred. In short: maybe try factory resetting each bulb and reconnecting it to the new router.
  2. Your logic and troubleshooting sounds good. Try using the reverse logic as such: And 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' Watering is Not On
  3. If 'Generic / Rachio-Sprinkler' is a program can it be 'off' status?. How long will the status of the door open sensor be 'On' and will it ever coincide with the following line?
  4. Try turning your output powers to about 25% and check again. Some of these router's antennae cannot handle that much power without distorting the waveforms IMHO, and work much better with less power output. Alternatively, try turning down just the 5GHz strength and leave the 2.4GHz turned up.
  5. It says it is for motors so it should work. For the MOV, it is a small flat lollipop shaped item that would require a space inside the motor or even a large size plug. I assume there are no terminal blocks involved in the wiring somewhere? For contacts it's the current that is critical for turning things on and running. It is the voltage that is critical not to arc across the contacts for turn things off. Motors are a biotch for both aspects. We dealt with a lot of DC devices so a 240 vac contact would suddenly be rated at 24vdc max. I watched a few contacts melt before my eyes while new engineers discovered this the hard way. High voltage DC contacts (yeah 120vdc was 'high') involved magnets to attract the arc into quenching cages and other magic. As @ELAposted above the Insteon specs have always been missing the full spec., hiding the motor/inductive capacity of their devices.
  6. I use scenes and programs like this, Alexa...turn on xxxx lights Alexa...turn on dim lights Alexa... turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on TV lights (slowly dims and colour tunes bulbs before bed every 30 min.) Alexa...turn off xxx lights These all control programs that may operate scenes and/or WiFi bulbs together. Create scenes with useful levels, as needed, and work with them.
  7. Typically, in industrial electronics, contact devices have two current ratings, one for resistive loads and one for inductive loads. Since you are controlling a motor, you have an inductive load and the rating of the contacts should have been stated as much lower. This is due to, as @Brian H posted above, when you break the current flow to an inductor/motor, it has an 'electrical inertia' that doesn't want the present current to change and results in an inductive voltage spike coming from the load. When the contact opens the current will tend to keep flowing and will arc across the contact until it extinguishes or the contact either melts together or melts itself clear. When replacing the device I would install some heavy duty MOVs across the motor windings, to absorb some of this counterEMF that the motor may produce. The common ones I have dealt with mostly were rated at 20,000 joules @ 220V. You must remember it has to withstand the peak of the 120v waveform. 130v x 1.414 = 183v
  8. There is a file in the ISY that dictates the UUID number that acts up with some older ISYs. UDI had a fix for me. I can't remember how but one module needed to be updated or retimed.
  9. IIRC Alexa boxes have a detector for emergency style alarm detections (by sound). My Wyse cheapie cameras do. How reliable they are, I do not know but with Alexa it would be easy to get the signal into ISY wonders.
  10. The only thing I control with my Alexa speakers are ISY programs, and then they can operate, and do, whatever I want them to. All devices have the same vocal syntax ...Alexa, Turn On dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On very dim lights ...Alexa, Turn On bright lights ...Alexa Turn Off all lights ...Alexa, Turn On Christmas lights ...Alexa, Turn on TV lights ...Alexa, Turn On red lights No set or level commands ever used. It keeps it simple and easy to remember.
  11. I didn't think the ecobee remote sensors send a battery voltage. My stats just report no response from a sensor when the battery gets too low. That indicates to me it's just a time out lack of response.
  12. Either way you will likely have purchase the USB to microIDE adapter. I did this to upgrade my polisy and I can't believe how easy it was. The adapter was about $11 CAD and came in 2 days from Amazon without Prime. The hardest part was taking the screws out of the case and putting them back in again. Sent from my SM-S711W using Tapatalk
  13. I would say the latest release has changed a lot. However not using the high-res capabilities of a monitor can resolve their bugs.
  14. Just plain white. I try to focus mainly on PLA+ as it prints better, is tougher, and stronger. After being told by so many I broke down and bought a filament dryer. Makes a big difference to printing, especially the ones claiming to be vacuum packed, etc..etc... Likely the wrong way to pack anything in a bag that draws in moisture inside the bottom of a cargo ship witting in the ocean during a pandemic. Inflated bags would likely work better. Now I dry them all as soon as I receive them. My son printed a nice one of a grandson and you would swear you can see the colour of his eyes in it despite all white filament. I have found the curved lithophanes are best about 120 degrees. Any flatter, they fall off the bed while printing. Any more arc, they cannot be seen from one viewpoint.
  15. I started Christmas 2022 with a Ender3 S1 Pro, and love it also. I recently bought my son one to get him off a politics obsession and he loves it now too. I never hear about political garbage anymore. It has a feeling of being in control of everything. I have created many gear toys for myself and children, as well as many useful hooks and gifts. My son then designed and printed a replacement gear for his son's 12V car. If you haven't tried them yet, try making a lithophane. There is a website that creates patterns for them out of photographs, complete with a frame of your choice. People are fascinated with them when you gift them one. Make sure to use a fairly high-res photo, after cropping. https://www.lithophanemaker.com/Curved Lithophane.html#processing After a lifetime of 2D CAD I tried freeCAD and after two weeks of frustration and failure, I tried my same project on TinkerCAD. It took me about 20 minutes to complete the project. Its a totally browser run, cloud based, free, CAD system, very simple looking but can do a lot in a few minutes.
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