larryllix

Maybe you never had a temperature monitor in that room before and with a two story house, the air stratification, now heating season has started, always makes that room a lot warmer than downstairs? Once you start monitoring it, it is amazing how much stratification happens in a house when the circulation fan doesnt circulate enough. Answer for that? Have a return air duct in each room, keep the door closed, and get a baby monitor, so the nervous mother can watch them on video, until they move out at 35.

I thought we should start a favourite usage for the Alexa controls, games, information, and other things, that can come up, to share between users. Our Echo sat for about a month, without much usage, except for my OCD usage. Now both of us use it for many things, HA being the main one, but so many outside HA usages are popping up each week. We love the shopping list! No more looking for a pencil or pen that won;t write uphill on the fridge list. No more fridge list paper hanging there. No more forgetting to write it down, as it was a hassle and we procrastinate.. No more surprise shopping and the list is still at home. The suffix "to my shopping list" is assumed and optional. Native and no skill required. Shows up in your Alexa app on both out cell phones and shared deletions works in 1-2 seconds. Alexa....add onions! ....OK, I have added onions to your shopping list. Alexa...add magazine at Walmart! ....OK, I have added magazine at Walmart to your shopping list. Alexa...What is on our shopping list? ....Your shopping list has xxxx, yyyy, zzzz,...

Like Stu said above, You call Alexa....and all that hear you, wake up and light up. Then all but one goes dark again, when they decide between themselves who hears you the best. You can set some individual personality for each also, as I found out this morning. Whe asked the time it told me the time for PDT, not EDT. On inspection, turns out the default address in Cali. was still installed. All on the same account.

It might be that, Michel just gets tired of listening to all the voice recordings and typing that fast, sometimes late at nights! @Michel. It's not nice to spit food on your keyboard!

Have you tried LED bulbs to cut down on your power usage?

Thinking again it does make sense In the former case. "Turn" and "On" are split into two distinct places in the sentence. In the latter, "turn On" is one phrase with more syllables that may be easier to recognise. If "turn" is just a useless word, we have just injected, at a random place in the sentence, a useless word, that needs to be parsed so it can just be ignored.

I had some problems with tha in the beginning but I switched my syntax to Alexa. Turn Off Christmas tree lights. I found the On/Off before the device name, much more reliable. I think it would be esaier for a vocal parser to grasp.

Mine does that occasionally. Alexa integration has just gone through some bugs, that have just been fixed, as well. See the other recent thread.

Was a bug and now fixed!

Go to the very bottom of the list and use the button to forget everything. Then Discover again,

If ISY can't determine the type this usually means it can't communicate with it properly

My Echo and two Dots always seem to reconnect just fine without any intervention from me. Maybe they updated your firmware and it needed a better reboot. One of mine updated a week ago.

Apparently it gets stopped by any other Insteon signal processing and without a completely quiet environment isn't that useful. Varying count results are normal.

Right click on the device in the admin console device tree. select restore and try again. It would seem you have lost some links in your PLM or devices. How old is your PLM?

I pounded Alexa many times with the weather from my small town with no answers, as it wasn't listed in the database. Then you go into the app and tell it you didn't get the response you wanted. Now my little town has weather avaiable. Amazon listens to you. .....hmmmmm...maybe too much?

You and your old celery jokes!

I have the iRLinc cable fixed and can repeat iR commands to operate devices successfully. However no such luck linking it and transferring commands to ISY, even with an On/Off module plugged into a Y split short 20"" extension cord. I changed the location of the iRLinc to a 15" extension cord lugged into the same duplex receptacle box as the PLM. I factory reset the iRLinc about 40 times with various attempts and sequences as the onscreen instructions don't seem to make things respond correctly. Linking mode first, admin console linking menu first, add iR commands first etc.. Each time I factory reset the iRLinc and instigated the linking mode from the admin console I know it comm'ed with the module because it beeps very clearly. However the event viewer level 3 shows it drops out each and every time with this . Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:37 PM : [VAR 2 83 ] 1 Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:42 PM : [VAR 2 63 ] 1208154215 Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:51 PM : Start Insteon Device Linking Mode Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:51 PM : [LNK-BGN ] 02 64 01 00 06 Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:51 PM : Stop Insteon Device Linking Mode, Final processing to follow Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:52 PM : [LNK-END ] 02 65 06 : : Unexpected, ignored (65) Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:52 PM : [All ] Writing 0 bytes to devices Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:52 PM : [All ] Writing 0 bytes to devices Thu 12/08/2016 02:41:56 PM : [VAR 2 63 ] 1208154230 After, I can install an iR command and repeat it with the test OK When I double tap the LED starts slow blinking but never stops and no traffic with ISY is witnessed on PLM/ISY LEDs or event viewer. One occasion after the double tap to link it seemed to double beep and the LED return to dim steady on. I clicked the OK on the dmin console link instruction box and this appeared but the link look incorrect. Here is that. I got to this point several times at random but could not ever add any more iR commands as the linking would never complete.

The wires going to the mechanism run power to the circuits in the keypad and signals to operate things. That shouldn't have worked on the fancy new multipurpose control panels. (I have one too that we have given up, setting the clock for). You need to solder across the pushbutton contacts. You will need a temperature controlled soldering iron and be quick,most likely. Find a buddy with a temp. controlled soldering pencil and experience for a case of beer. Where are you?

If he patched the Elk dry contact directly to the opener control panel, no aux. ps or remote would be needed at all.

You want a plug-in source to charge your batteries in the remote.I would be looking inside the GDO control panel for some voltage that you could steal a little current to keep a trickle charge on the batteries, just a few mA. ebay has lots of 3v wallwarts. Best to get a higher voltage, like a 5v microUSB style and add an appropriate resistor in series to charge a couple of NiMH. The batteries can take a light charge constantly for their lifetime. That is why I suggested the PV part of a solar lantern style. Most people have an old one they are about to toss. Just enough ctrickle current that the batteries don't go dead in a few months.

You mentioned it was a remote, so I figured it was portable. If it wired in to a battery backed GDO, why do you need a separate power supply? If you need a separate power supply what is wrong with a solar panel instead of a wallwart? I am confused exactly what this is, you want to backup.

basically each section takes thisset a variable to the hue set a variable to level set the saturation set a variable to ramp speed (if written into the NR. I just keep mine at about 2 seconds) set a variable to the bulb number (unless you have a NR for each bulb - I do) call the NR. Check back on the screen shot I posted and look at the variable substitutions in the URL and the body section.

If it will just sit there with very little load, a couple of NiMH cells with a few watt solar panel to charge your car battery. The type that actually drains a 12v battery due to the flashing LED taking more energy that the cell puts out on your dashboard. Some experimentation would be needed but the 3-5W rating would likely be just enough to top the battery off each day with garage lighting. Pick one up at a garage sale for a buck or two. Solar PV panels act like constant current devices (light dependent) and can be shorted without problems. Afterthought; Pickup a solar garden light with a 3v NiMH battery in it and connect into that. It's all there already. This depends on your standby load on the battery.

I have the Insteon Outdoor On/Off module, another two On/Off Modules, and an X10 Appliance module outside on my deck, white taped around the modules to keep the snow out of the plug/receptacles and they all work fine. They were covered in snow last winter for the Christmas lead-up season and using the same units again this year. Keep the water out of them and don't get them sub-zero and bring them into warm humid air, they should be OK. If you have frozen wiring that is wet, Ice is s hort circuit for RF. I am not sure if that would affect Insteon signals though, They are low frequency compared to business band stuff. Bring them into the warm and try them. They can go back then or be replaced, either way they need to come in.

Here is a long one with a few examples involved for you. This puts my whole rom on to flowery colours everywhere. WAF is high as it is relaxing. Note the usage of colour constant variables = $cZ.XXXXXXX so that the values don't have to be looked up all the time. The "Z" in the name is to force sorting to the end when in pull-down menus for the variables. I use four banks of colours for the 6 major colours so when I select that purple they all match. Even Hue bulbs don't match Hue Bloom bul colours. These are all placed over the integer 150 count range so I never have to scroll past them once defined. The NRb.xxxx references are the same technique sending commands to my own NRbridge python3 code on a RPi that controls my LEDenet strips. Note: no Wait times as I use a NR parameter bank for each NR. This may disappear once the caching problem is resolved. Colours.movie - [ID 0060][Parent 00C5] If $sGathRm.colours is $cMODE.MOVIE Then Set 'Gathering Room / ML2' to 20% $CornerLamp.hue = $cZ.MAUVE.HUE $CornerLamp.saturation = 254 $CornerLamp.brightness = 100 Resource 'CornerLamp.set' $TVLeftPot.hue = $cZ.ORANGE.HUE $TVLeftPot.brightness = 80 $TVLeftPot.saturation = 254 Resource 'TVLeftPot.set' $TVBackLamp.hue = $cZ.BLUE.BLOOM $TVBackLamp.saturation = 254 $TVBackLamp.brightness = 100 Resource 'TVBackLamp.set' $TVRightPot.hue = $cZ.MAUVE.HUE $TVRightPot.brightness = 150 $TVRightPot.saturation = 254 Resource 'TVRightPot.set' $FloorLamp.hue = $cZ.ORANGE.HUE $FloorLamp.brightness = 100 $FloorLamp.saturation = 254 Resource 'FloorLamp.set' Set 'Gathering Room / ML2 / SideLamp' to 60%, color '$cZ.GREEN.ML Index' Set 'Gathering Room / ML2 / BufCornerLamp' to 100%, color '$cZ.RED.ML Index' Set 'Gathering Room / ML2 / BuffetandDesk' to 100%, color '$cZ.AQUA.ML Index' Wait 2 seconds $NRb.RGBlevel = 100 $NRb.Wlevel = 0 $NRb.bulb = 4 $NRb.colour = $cZ.VIOLET.ML Resource 'LEDenet.Set' Resource 'LEDenet.On' Wait 2 seconds $NRb.bulb = 3 $NRb.colour = $cZ.BLUE.LED Resource 'LEDenet.Set' Resource 'LEDenet.On' Wait 2 seconds $NRb.bulb = 2 $NRb.colour = $cZ.RED.LED Resource 'LEDenet.Set' Resource 'LEDenet.On' Wait 2 seconds $NRb.bulb = 1 $NRb.colour = $cZ.MAUVE.LED Resource 'LEDenet.Set' Resource 'LEDenet.On' Set 'Gathering Room / ML2 / UnderBar' to 60%, color '$cZ.GREEN.STRIP Index' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')