larryllix

You are going to need two programs to stop the program from triggering due to sunset by disabling that program so it only acts as a filter and not a trigger. If Control 'ZW Kitchen Door Lock' is switched Key/Manually Unlocked Then Run (If) 'Program2' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Program2 (disabled) ------- -------- If From Sunset + 15 minutes To Sunrise - 15 minutes (next day) Then Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Backlanding' On Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Deck' Fast On Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Driveway' Fast On Set Scene 'Outside Rec Driveway' On Set Scene 'Garage Front Outside' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

The MiLight strip controllers remember their colour and brightness settings. No need to include complex network resources in your ISY initialisation to turn them off while you are on vacation. With the MiLight controllers just don't get cool white RGBW strips. Get the RGBWW, 5050 strips because you cannot adjust the white temperature or mix in RBG with the white. The Warm white is about 3000K and a really nice working pure bright white. I got thinking about the whole Hue bulbs and they seem to be trying to accomplish their feats without using a white LED and only three LEDs. This resulted in no green whatsoever, very poor blue, indigo instead, and the white must have a very poor CRI of about 40-50 at best. Most of the colour spectrum would be missing without using broad spectrum LEDs for white bulbs. hmmmmm...I wonder where I can get a colour wheel to test this on my Hue bulbs to see how many different colours are MIA.

These are synchronous motors and do not like to be out of synch with the power supply. They will probably buzz a lot.

I believe you may have some lines of code incorrect or copied incorrectly. If both lines are actually to enable/disable the 'Boathouse Sensor Day2' program, it appears you have gone to a lot of trouble to insure that the timer will not be retriggered. Even without the disable/enable the program will have to time out and shut off the beeper before it can be triggered again by the MS. The use of a variable to pass the trigger also insures that no retriggering can take place. With the Off disabled in the MS this could all be fit into one program but you lose your non-retriggering, if this was desired. Boathouse Sensor Day2 - [ID 0042][Parent 003D] If Control 'Motion Sensor-Sensor' is switched On Then $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 1 Set 'IO Relay' On Wait 15 minutes $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 0 Wait 10 minutes Set 'IO Relay' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') With the usage of a variable to pass the trigger the enable/disable isn't necessary as the variable can only be set to 1 by the MS. Only the second program sets the variable back off. Therefore the time and program 2 cannot be retriggered until the second program says so by setting the variable back to 0. Yes, if the variable wasn't being used a trigger passing element you would have to bring the enable/disable into play to stop repetitive retriggering of timers. Since you disabled the MS Off function it cannot stop the program from running either so the enable/disable isn't necessary to insulate against that logic trigger either. Boathouse Sensor Day2 - [ID 0042][Parent 003D] If Control 'Motion Sensor-Sensor' is switched On Then $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Boathouse Entry Day Timer2 - [ID 0041][Parent 003D] If $sBoathouse_Entry_Day is 1 Then Set 'IO Relay' On Wait 15 minutes $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 0 Wait 10 minutes Set 'IO Relay' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I assume you are referring to the thermostat losing power and not the ISY. I don't think there anything ISY can do to force a thermostat to send it's temperature. You just have to wait for a change of more than about 1.5 degrees. I leave the batteries in my 2441ZTH units and when the grid fails they don't.

Following power outages ISY will have lost the temperature also until the 2441xTH reports a temperature change. Inside a home environment with regulated temperatures this could be a long time. BTW; ISY can set the time on a Insteon 2441ZTH thermostat.

Definitely confusing and others don't like it but where else could you put it?

LOL. Awesome! Reminds me of the silly vehicle steering wheel locks. One TV show hired a thief to crack one and despite all the warnings about it being hardened kryptonite steel, the thief just cut the steering wheel with a hacksaw in about 25 seconds and slid the useless gadget off.

Some of this reminds me of the security people trying to upsell you on fancy locks. The deadbolt was pushed to the public as the only lock to have on your door, being so sturdy without a tongue pickable by a banana knife or even credit card. Then some donkey thought of ways to defeat these miracles being pushed, by just breaking the sidelite window and turning the knob. Then came the deadbolt without a handle that couldn't be beat so easily from either side. Now the user can't leave of his/her own home, so a spare set of keys hang in the deadbolt lock on the inside, for convenient usage, when leaving the home. Looks really decorative too and it doesn't take a guest much time to make an impression of the key for duplication while you hang up her coat. The result? You should change all your locks every five years and every time we move. The saga continues. A new market is born. We think that some thief can sit outside our home watching and decrypting our Insteon signals, getting full access to our ISY, maybe and yet he/she can't figure out how to beat a geofencing programme or other algorithm? In the end we do our best to keep the teenagers out and we buy insurance. A simple double click or Off On Mini Remote sequence and lots of "This home is protected" stickers will do that one. Not having things, worth the hassle of stealing, in the house keeps the professionals out. Fancy gadgets won't.

The noise is not a positive or a positive indicator. The real and easy way is to just unplug everything check to see if the problem ges away and then start adding things back in with testing after each add. I sure hope your CREE bulbs aren't the culprit. I haven't had problems with mine, that I know of. I had one 60w equiv Cree go bad in a chandelier of 5and had it replaced a HD. Unfortunately they brought in the vented style at all store now and they do not dim on the same curve, especially at the bottom "off" end of the curve. The vented bulb style is also much larger and I would be sure after sucking in dust for a few years may be a planned burnout feature. What are all these LED bulbs companies going to do after producing bulbs that never burn out and they are installed everywhere? It wouldn't be the first time the big light bulb companies conspired to make bulbs that didn't last long.

I don't think the Mini Remote would give you enough distance to work nicely. You would have to pull into the driveway and press the button while stopped outside the door and wait for it to open, instead of having it open while coming up the street and being open when you get there. Unless you have a lamppost you could put an access point into. You could also use a sequence to encrypt the command, somewhat, B off, then A Fast On, or twice.

LEDs can be worse with their switching power supplies. CFLs only need a starter circuit. Most of my LEDs seem good now but some of the earlier cheaper units I had to toss. Not due to interference but visual flickering and noise.

I was told a few times. I learned the hard way many times and want to repeat it again. Factory Reset every Insteon piece of hardware before attempting linking to your ISY! I have had modules that do weird things are not even possible in normal usage. It makes one suspect there is only one Insteon EPROM, and one piece of firmware, in Insteon units and it has specific options factory selected for each device,

I have one KPL and use one scene from the MS to direct connect via a scene to the KPL load lights. For the keys A,B,C,D I do not use scenes but only programs. This depends on whether you want to do logic with to symbols and how fast you need a response. I use my keypad buttons for combination sequences. For manually operated switches and buttons controlling lights with a ramp on delay or a fan speed the small ISY program delay is never noticed. For a MS, with responding light, the ISY program delay is unforgivable IMHO.

Yup Stu is correct. I use my cell phone charger plugs to charge them. I was thinking of another unit I charge occasionally. Apologies and thanks Stu for catching that.

My garage door opener batteries have gone for about six years so far but use a bunch of CR1632 and another size cell. My mini remote has a hard time with 40 feet through a brick exterior wall to a SwitchLinc. This is dependent on which angle I hold it on so I know it is marginal from my firepit to the front door Swichlinc. The batteries in the miniremote are rechargeable and with very occasional usage, maybe twice per week, they last about six months. A micro USB is used to recharge it via a standard USB adapter. Edit: "mini USB" was corrected to "micro USB"

There is nothing to activate the scene in your program, only light level adjustments. I assume the scenes contain the SwitchLinc and KPL buttons as controllers in the scenes. What doesn't work?

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

According to the Quickstart Guide . "Quick Start Guide ToggleLinc™ Relay – INSTEON® Remote Control On/Off Switch (Non-Dimming) Model: 2466S, (15Amps) Rev 5.0+ Your new ToggleLinc On/Off Switch allows you to dim and remotely control any light in your home at the touch of a button" I would think they used the same smarts as the 2466DW and changed the triac to a relay.. ISY my not support the signals it can send out though.

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

When the winged warriors came out it was so much better. You can start them fast with a finger twisting spin, right on the tip, to capture the wires, you so painfully made even lengths, and then you can twist right into the insulation with little effort. You just hoped you didn't have to untwist those after the linesman pliers were on them. Some got some bad burrs. Just to reminisce, how about the old Marr connectors and trying to get all the tips lined up while you performed accidental surgery on your wrist when the slotted screwdriver slipped out of the slot up your wrist? Then you put the cap on and it usually fell off later.

I thought of this later, not to confuse you ay more though. here is how I like to do this. This is for the purpose of the view in Admin Console so you know at a glance by colour what the program is doing. MBath-SS-Syncrolinc - [iD 004A][Parent 0068] If Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is switched On And Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is not switched Off Then Wait 15 seconds Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' On Wait 1 hour Run program (else) MBath-SS-Syncrolinc Else Wait 10 minutes Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off Edit: correct to 'else'

Fabulous! Shower on dude!

These sound really handy and more secure when you have more than three conductors in one connector. For two or three conductors and probably price I think I would still prefer my nuts twisted even if it does cause some bruising on my wire around the joint.

You should be able to see the button status update in the device page in the Admin Console. I don't add my remotes to the scenes. I use a program to operate the scene devices from the mini Remotes though. I add them to SwitchLinc programs so they clone all the actions available from a SwitchLinc Dimmer. So far, I have 8 different scene that operate from one SwitchLinc Dimmer and mini Remote all from one button/paddle. Off = all off Fast Off = whites off,coloured lights on then rotate through colour schemes Dim = low whites and preset colour scheme around rook perimeter Brighten = bright whites On = TV mode then toggle with Reading modes. Fast On = Whites on full and coloured on full white toggled with just perimeter coloured on full white. If Control from SwitchLinc Dimmer is On OR Control from Remote.A is On Then turn scene.Reading On Else -- Repeat program for each different scene.