larryllix

I am using a portable humidifier as I screwed up and never left room on my furnace/air handler. People told me with ahome sealed this tightly the humidity would always be higher than wanted....BS! If I boiled noodles every day, and didn't have exhaust fans, maybe. Anyway this is my set of programs to cycle my humidifier at a constant humidity specified by an Integer variable constant, easily changed and denoted with '$c......'. Humidifier.start - [ID 003C][Parent 00BD] If $sHouse.humidity < $cHOUSE.HUMIDITY.SETPOINT And $sHouse.vacation is $cFALSE Then Run Program 'Humidifier.stop' (Else Path) Repeat Every 5 minutes Set 'Foyer / Humidifier' On Wait 25 minutes Set 'Foyer / Humidifier' Off Repeat 1 times Else Wait 5 minutes Set 'Foyer / Humidifier' Off Every 25 minutes, allow wick/filter to soak to top for 5 minutes. Humidifier.stop - [ID 0050][Parent 00BD] If $sHouse.humidity > $cHOUSE.HUMIDITY.SETPOINT Then Run Program 'Humidifier.start' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I have attempted to use centralised $sHouse.factors now, and use programs to clone device parameters into central variables. This offers the chance to use alternate parameter resources. eg: My humidity clone program checks to see if the Venstar T7900 thermostat is reporting OK and uses it's humidity report. If the T7900 is not reporting it uses an Insteon 2441ZTH in the basement that is slight off from the main floor sensing, but workable. If something fails ie: T7900, Router, NodeLink, RPi bridge, or other comm pathway device I can get parameters from the Insteon network devices.

As per Stu above and your follow up ideas. Main Humidifier - [iD 000B][Parent 0001] If Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' is Mode Heat And Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' is Fan On And ( ( Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' <= 45% (Humidity) And Module 'Climate' Temperature <= 50 °F And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 40 °F ) Or ( Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' <= 40% (Humidity) And Module 'Climate' Temperature <= 40 °F And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 30 °F ) Or ( Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' <= 35% (Humidity) And Module 'Climate' Temperature <= 30 °F And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 20 °F ) Or ( Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' <= 30% (Humidity) And Module 'Climate' Temperature <= 20 °F And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 10 °F ) Or ( Status 'Main Floor Thermostat - Main' <= 25% (Humidity) And Module 'Climate' Temperature <= 10 °F ) ) Then Set 'AprialAire 800 Humidifier' On Else Set 'AprialAire 800 Humidifier' Off With v5 you could extract the humidity and temperature into variables , do some math and u the humidifier on a sliding scale. I don't vary humidity but I never set it over 39%. I have to hand fill my supply bottles each day and don't want to have to cart 5 gal of water every day. Search for humidity sensor calibration. Damp salt with create an exact 75% humidity if you can get the sensor into a sealed vessel. Magnesium chloride with produce 33% humidity.

In this case (below)....none. Almost Sunset If Time Is Sunset - 30 minutes Then Run Program 'Fade Up Exterior' (Then Path) Fade Up Exterior If (NO CONDITION) Then Set 'ZwaveExteriorDimmer' 1% Repeat 50 times Set 'ZwaveExteriorDimmer' Brighten Wait 36 seconds, Else ----- However, -if there are conditions in the second program that are not wanted as triggers -if there are multiple conditions that result in more than two code path options. -if the first trigger could become false and it not be desirable to stop running the True block Almost Sunset If From Sunset - 30 minutes To Sunrise+30 minutes (next day) <------this will run else and stop Then Block Then Run Program 'Fade Up Exterior' (If) <---more decisions to be made Else Sunrise code here <---- sunrise+30 stops Then block, Fade Up Exterior insulated Fade Up Exterior [disabled] <----triggers can't happen If Door is closed <----door opening cannot stop code running, decision is made once Then Set 'ZwaveExteriorDimmer' 1% Repeat 50 times Set 'ZwaveExteriorDimmer' Brighten Wait 36 seconds, Else Door is open code lines

Not sure what "free-form" means but from my guess the answer is "No". ISY only accepts menu edited/written code. This is pretty standard for small controllers without debuggers or syntax checkers for interpreted code. If a syntax error was found who would it tell? Would you want your ISY to just stop/hang until you checked it next weekend? I don't believe 4.2.x supports setting to a variable based level. You will need v5.0.2. When v5.0.3 comes out it will be a drop in without much hassle. I have run v5.0.2 since it came out (a few months) and I doubt you will find a bug in it for the first 4-5 months of usage. If you can write free-form code then you can handle v5.0.2 with it's few GUI things not completed. Set your bulb ramp at 8 minutes and use the 3% jumps. You will never see it.

I have been through this before and spent a few nights on it. I need actual instructions not descriptions of some elements involved and acronyms. Most of this document is non-instructional for implementation on ISY and means nothing to me. Even the first link has an error built in I guess this is why I have never bothered with this nonsense to access my ISY.

Yup. Just as long as you have a Wait or Repeat line in there it hands the control back to the ISY engine to be productive while the time is being not-wasted.

You previously posted you could see the DON for the device in the Event Viewer. If that was true, the solution strength of the water would not make any difference to what the ISY does with the trigger inside Perhaps you were triggering a different unit than the program you were testing.

ISY v5.0.2 can use decimal multiplication for fine scaling and v4.+ can do offset (+/-) math, also. Linearisation will be more difficult.

That is what I thought you were implying. If the event viewer is showing successful reception of the command, but your programs are not successful, then either your ISY is corrupt, or your program is not working as you think it should. You stated "Monitors four Leak Sensors in house - under Kitchen Sink, behind Washer in Laundry Room, above Washer in access space between floors behind removable panel in ceiling in Laundry Room, in Garage behind Water Heater. Test is LampLinc module 2456D3." Does this mean you are only showing one of the four programs?

People keep tooting this stuff with security but I see many holes in it, at this point. This person has to sit in wait of me to randomly sign into my ISY, intercept and decode packets between my remote device and ISY, using their own certificate? How would they get a certificate into my ISY to transmit? If they can do it at the receiving end how would me having a certificate at my receiving end make it secure? I can't say I understand all this stuff well but it always sounds like something imagined. It has to be more complex than what I just scenarioed (word?)

If only one, maybe two sensors are required the simple 2441ZTH Insteon thermostat is about the cheapest and most PnP. Humidity is sent on a regular basis, and can act as a heartbeat. Temperature is sent on about a 1.0 C change. The units are not compact, great looking or particularly cheap but easy to implement. Two AA batteries will run it or add a small 5v USB charger with the microUSB plug cut off the end if you can strip and connect wiring into a terminal block. If the power fails, the batteries just kick in and the updates are slower. https://www.aartech.ca/2441zth-insteon-wireless-temperature-humidity-sensor.html http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2441zth-wireless-thermostat.html

I am not sure I reading this problem correctly but.... How do you know the Leak is sending a DON signal? Somewhere in the Leak Sensor's history they changed what the button does. I have two older units and two newer units. The newer units can send WET or DRY depending if you tap the button quickly or hold it for a second or more. When attempting to clear my detection programs, after testing, a short tap cleared the older two unit's WET signal but resent the WET signal ON for the two newer units. A longer tap on the two newer units cleared the WET and sent the DRY -On signal. Having said all that above, I may have the logic backwards with the short vs long tap reversed in my head. It's been a while now so do some experimentation with the length of tap..

That is all the same in Canuckistan, here. HD has a policy not to take back used lightbulbs or other half consumed products. I have bought products from the Canuck Home Hardware chain and taken them back to HD for a profit without any card or receipt. I have also attempted to return products to HD that they have changed brands, or style, (UPC code) and the scan just turns up, "Sorry, not our product"

I believe if I would have lied and stated the bulb didn't work it may have been a different story but I tried to tell them their new Utilitech brand bulbs were garbage and get my money back. I think the brand name migrated from Lowes back a year or more ago,

Proven used.

If I query a scene would I expect to get something that wasn't known before?

I don't bother with all that nonsense. In Chrome I just hit advanced and click ignore the warning each time. I know I am no going to hack into my own equipment and if I did, I wouldn't cause any damage anyway.

How do you "Query the scene"?

I brought a bad led bulb back and the newbie looks at the tip and found a scratch and told me the policy is not to return any bulbs. Now this was their cheap Utilitech brand and I told them it was junk. It took three seconds to light up. That was probably the clincher, returning for bad quality, not defective.

HD will not take lightbulbs back. I had one didn't know what to do and just slipped me a replacement once without any records but since they just tell you to call the Cree number on the package.

5.0.3 will be beta also. There will be a long road before a RC version will be out. OTOH after running v5.0.1 and v5.0.2 I would have no problem relying on either version for serious applications. Any problems I have seen were just gui and very minor.

If you have been operating bulbs with a starting ballast and the gap was not making good contact the contacts could be welded together now. Contacts that fallback under weakening spring pressure and not by a driving force mechanism are usually not a good design and tend to do this. Add some manufacturing oils and dust and a surge creating ballast and you have a burnt contact.

At this point I have to believe UDI's words that a signal collision is responsible but without complex testing of Insteon signal collision generating equipment this isn't going to happen. SH would be the only ones capable of performing these complex tests as they hold all the technology close to their chests and UDI isn't even allowed to use SH's chip without permission. How could anybody else even know what it does? How could UDI even know what the code running the serial port driver and protocol is? Why would SH even care to do this testing when it isn't their problem? My guess is they all are right but the problem is with such a simple and poor serial port protocol the ISY has some problem with the buffer crashing or overrunning and an ALL ON signal is created for the PLM. It doesn't have to be in the Insteon signal. I could be in the interface to the ISY.

Thanks for those tech heads up Brian. If I knew how to get the glass off, I would have been into them by now, because I don't expect much out of the Cree help line, although I haven't bothered yet, experiencing the receipt demand right up front. My guess is they have installed poor grade caps also and the power supply shows voltage dips amplifying them at the light output due to soft start circuitry and no soft off design.

Yes. Very stable but lots of gui stuff incomplete.