larryllix

Any analogue conditions I have used will retriever the logic evaluation again even though the result doesn't change. I'm afraid LeeG is correct.

I think it was mentioned once-upon-a-time that the CPU was 0.6-0.8 GHz . In a previous life, I ran an X10 system that had as many devices and even had triggers based on an every second clock. It never experienced any slow downs from a CPU bound system that I could detect.. This system ran on a super-duper 40 MHz (yes. 0.04 GHz !) AMD CPU. I don't think being CPU bound is a problem for the ISY system. Insteon comm congestion can tie the system up, slightly. X10 coming and going out of the same PLM as Insteon, much more. I tried to measure the speed at which ISY processed lines of code once, but failed, as routines run simultaneously on it's multitasking system and it's hard to nail down. Anybody else manage to create a speed test program for ISY994i? Want to?

I wouldn't be sure SmartyPants can lower their prices much and stay in business with the new big-name competitors coming on the scene (pun intended) from everywhere in droves. They are priced about the same as everybody else. What surprises me in light f the same fact (above) that SmartyPants hasn't had a big sale or price drop, at least temporarily drop prices to hook a future captive audience to their product line. In other forums I constantly hear the single supplier argument and I believe it takes it's toll on their share of the market just as it drove Apple into the ground for so many decade of floundering. If the Insteon product line had a huge advantage above other protocols it may rise to the top but it doesn't. The watching future market doesn't see any advantage to Insteon at all and until you have some experience with it you aren't going to know any difference except for the big-name behind other products. Who is SmartyPants anyway?

I believe you should be able to drag all those devices into a scene with the settings you want and include the KPL LED as another item and now when you turn the scene on and off the LED just follows, as if by magic. For bed time scenes, the long ramp off is nice to not jar the senses but not really wanted for other times when fast on lights may suit better. These techniques make your program code much simpler to use and easy to read. Another advantage of using non-toggle modes and only having the On command sent is you can easily set up a second scene for the second tap of the same button. GathRm Mode.Reading/TV.select - [iD 00B1][Parent 0004] If Control (Old) 'Gathering Room / PotLights over Chairs' is switched On Then Run Program 'GathRm Mode.Reading/TV.toggle' (If) GathRm Mode.Reading/TV.toggle - [iD 0030][Parent 0004][Not Enabled] If $sGathRm.Mode is $cMODE.TV Then $sGathRm.Mode = -1 $sGathRm.Mode = $cMODE.READING Else $sGathRm.Mode = -1 $sGathRm.Mode = $cMODE.TV Must be disabled due to trigger variable being State type.

I would never listen to my father, either.

Funny thing, It can be so complicated undoing the complexities of a three-way switching arrangement by wire colours, to make three-way wiring so simple, with Insteon communications. Creating a simple On or Off OR logic works so much simpler than mechanical switches, one has to toggle to the opposite side, after you study the initial position of the switch. Then there is no absolute status indicator by switch position to start with, as you approach, and only by the lamp around the corner where you can't see it, or even know it belongs to that switch. Yay Insteon HA!

I have very little experience with the KPL LEDs but... You could take the KPL out of toggle mode so that it only produced On commands and try something like this. IIRC KPL EDs only respond to scenes with them included. Dad's Bedtime - [iD 0019][Parent 0001] If Status Control 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (Bedtime)' is Switched On Then Set Scene 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (LED)' On Set 'Kitchen Lights (Hallway)' On Set 'Chandelier (Upstairs)' On Set 'Dad's Bedroom (TL)' On Wait 1 second Set 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL 1 (Light On and Off)' Off Wait 2 minutes Set 'Kitchen Lights (Hallway)' Off Set 'Chandelier (Upstairs)' Off Set Scene 'Family Room KPL / FR KPL A (LED)' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Yes. Devices can hold about 256 scenes each. It's like having a pull chain lamp socket with many strings on it and each person holding one of the multiple other ends. Anybody can pull the string and turn the light on or off if they hold an end (link)

Just glad it worked out in the end with no casualties.

You lost me there somewhat but The red wire from the double box should be connected to the KPL over to the fixture onto the black screw or black wire on the fixture. Double Fixture Single Box Box ------------------- ------------ -------------- feedBk - B -KPL B - B B - B B - KPL B feedW - W -KPL W -W W - lampW - W W- KPL W KPL R - R R - lampB n/c - R R - n/c n/c - KPL R

Hard switch is the switch in the double box beside the KPL that can be used to test for power. A tested meter is better though. geeesh. All this time I thought we were talking about SwitchLinc switches. The wiring is the same though. Pull your isolation switches out to hard disconnect the KPL electronics and use your ohmmeter. The incoming power should simply supply the KPL in the double box, the hardware switch, and then scoot across the blacks and whites through the fixture box, over to the single box Insteon device. If it doesn't get there I would check in your lamp fixture for good connections again.

Yes Be careful not to break it if you pull it out. It only pulls out about 1/8" at most. Just push it in. After that I recommend that you turn the breaker off, check it with the hard switch for power off. Trace your wires back to the black and white incoming cable in the middle of the double box and the black to the other switch. Pull on wires in the wire nuts to see if stranded wires have slipped off the solid ones in the wire nuts. Do you have an AC voltmeter/multimeter?

The isolation switch at the bottom of the SwitchLinc just needs to NOT be pulled out.

Yes. Is the breaker turned back on and the other hard switch should work indicating power to the black and white.

Did you change the wiring in the lamp connection box? Is the isolation tab switch pushed in at the bottom of the SwitchLinc?

The three way part is all done in programs or for speed, by linking now. Wiring doesn't provide any control from the 'extra switch'. Do this all in ISY and it will dump the links onto the switches. First factory reset both switches so there is no strange happenings with them. After factory reset link them to ISY with the New Insteon icon click. There is a process to create a 3-way scene but I have not done it and can\t remember the process exactly. Search for it recently on the forum or possibly on the Wiki. If no success wait until somebody that is familiar with this comes along.

I think I got it right! It took me some time to figure out what was happening and you can't see all the cables coming in clearly. I figured the OP might sitting in a panic. Been a while for me with this 3 way stuff.

You have a few confused, yet.

Is here not login information required each GET?

I just wish they would have put a main element in those that started with 3000K. 2700K is not a great white light for working under and with a variable colour temperature it limits the usage to bedroom cuddling and TV watching without crafts. The 'Warm Glow' ones were seen at HD.ca for about the $6-7 range but the online catalogue doesn't reflect that now as the prices seem inflated. I will have to do a double take survey here. The prices did seem low on the shelves, esp. for Canada. It seems Philips finally gave up on their weird squashed bulb. They seem to be disappearing fast and on sale a lot.

Sound like you are going to need UDI to help you rebuild your image. Nothing personal. Just your SD card.

Have you checked your SD card to make sure it is connected properly? IIRC it works like a ballpoint pen with a click-click action.

Unless somebody has a better ide and you have a decent backup I would be doing a factory reset at this time. You should open a ticket with UDI. I am sure they can give you better guidance in this matter.

Along with that. check your router and see if the ISY MAC address is showing up. Perhaps ISY has lost it's IP address assignment in the router and/or itself, for some reason. This would mean you are pinging the wrong address.

Reported in another thread "In the past when I didn't have the phases bridged, there would be an exclamation point appear on the admin console. The inline lincs are both on the same circuit, and they are both on the same phase as the PLM." The fluorescents are an excellent point, and if the building has a few years on it they are very likely suspect. I second that one.